173.Nitakayama Castle Part1

Ni-takayama Mountain, where Nitakayama Castle was built, is located on the western riverside of Nuta River while there is another mountain called Takayama across the river. The Kobayakawa Clan fist built their castle on Takayama, not on Ni-takayama. Takakage Kobayakawa who was its lord during the Sengoku Period moved his clan’s home to Ni-takayama.

Location and History

Kobayakawa Clan first builds Castle on Takayama Mountain

Nitakayama Castle was built and used by a great warlord, Takakage Kobayakawa on Ni-takayama Mountain along Nuta River in modern day Mihara City, Hiroshima Prefecture. The Ni-takayama (meaning the new high mountain, 198m above the sea level) is located on the western riverside of Nuta River while there is another mountain called Takayama (the high mountain, 190m high) across the river. These make a good contrast binding the river, so they are sometimes called Osu-takayama (the male mountain) as Ni-takayama and Mesu-takayama (the female mountain) as Takayama. The reason why Ni-takayama is called “male” seems to be because it is steeper than the other called “female”. In fact, the Kobayakawa Clan, Takakage’s ancestors fist built their castle on Takayama Mountain, not on Ni-takayama. Takakage moved his clan’s home to Ni-takayama for various reasons.

The range of Mihara City and the location of the castles

The relief map around the castle

The Kobayakawa Clan originally came from the Kanto Region when they served the Kamakura Shogunate during the 13th Century. The Shogunate gave them Nuta Manor after it defeated the Heike Family and Takehara Manor after the Jokyu War due to their contributions to the shogunate. The clan was eventually split into two, the Nuta-Kabayakawa Clan and the Takehara-Kobayakawa Clan. Takayama Castle was built by the Nuta-Kobayakawa Clan on the Takayama Mountain as their home, but it’s not known when it was built. Both clans sometimes were in opposition of each other but usually they cooperated with each other to increase their power. They gained the force of the warriors who could battle in Geiyo Islands, which would be called Kobayakawa Navy. Their relatives became their senior vassal families, such as the Mukunashi Clan for the Nuta-Kobayakawa Clan, to support their lords.

The family crest of the Kobayakawa Clan, called “HIdari-Mitsudomoe” (licensed by BraneJ via Wikimedia Commons)

The location of Kimura Castle, the home of the Takehara-Kobayakawa Clan

However, the situation became worse in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period when many battles happened. Their province, called Aki (the western part of Hiroshima Pref.), was divided by about 30 small lords like the Kobayakawa Clans at that time. That’s why it was targeted by other great warlords, such as the Ouchi Clan from the west and the Amago Clan from the north. For example, Takayama Castle was temporarily occupied by the Ouchi Clan in 1539 and was attacked by the Amago Clan in 1543. In addition, the lords of both Kobayakawa Clans all died young which caused a lot of crisis for the clans.

The portrait of Yoshitaka Ouchi, the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Ryufukuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Haruhisa Amago, the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Yamaguchi Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Takakage Kobayakawa coming from Mori Clan builds Nitakayama Castle

Motonari Mori, who would become the greatest warlord in the Chugoku Region, came out as a savior (or a fund raiser for someone). He had also been a small lord of the province but eventually became the leader of the small lords. In 1543, Motonari had his son, Takakage adopted by the Takehara-Kobayakawa Clan with no successor. He also consulted with the senior vassals of the Nuta-Kobayakaya Clan to make Takakage the successor of the clan as well. In 1552, they prohibited the current young and blind lord from taking over the clan. As a result, Takakage combined both Kobayakawa Clans. The first thing he did after the unification was to leave Takayama Castle and build Nitakayama Castle nearby.

The portrait of Motonari Mori, owned by Mori Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Takakage Kobayakawa, owned by Beisanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The reasons why he did so are thought as the following; First, moving their castle would radically change the public sentiment. It would also make the retainers gather around the castle to live, which could establish a new hierarchy for Takakage. Second, the mountain, where Nitakayama Castle was built, was steeper and rockier than that of Takayama Castle (that’s why the mountains are also called “male” and “female”.), so it would be stronger. Finally, the foot of the mountain was along the river, which would be convenient for the Kobayakawa Clan to use for water transportation on the Nuta River to Seto Inland Sea.

Nitakayama Mountain on the left and Takayama Mountain on the right, seen from the riverside of the Nuta River

Castle works as Cultural Center as well

A record of the clan says Motonari stayed in Nitakayama Castle for 10 days in 1561. Takakage invited his father to celebrate becoming the governor of Mutsu Province in 1560. They held ceremonies and parties with their retainers, families and servants in the castle during that time. According to the record, there was a building used for hosting guests, called “Kaisho”, on the middle slope of the mountain. They enjoyed seeing “Noh” plays from its reception room and played “Kemari” football at its garden. Historians speculate that there was also a public ceremony hall, called “Shuden”, and kitchens, which were usually a set with the Kaisho building at that time. Motonari and Takakage also joined a Renga poem party at a pavilion on the top. Takakage also held a reading party of Taiheiki historical epic and a tea ceremony. That meant the castle had a library and a tearoom. Overall, the site was not only a castle for battles, but also a cultural center of the surrounding area.

The ruins of Koshinji Temple Ruins, which once had the Kaisho building, at the middle slope of Nitakayama Mountain

Takakage was not only a son of a great father, but also a great warlord himself. After Motonari died, he continued supporting his parents’ home, the Mori Clan to survive during the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi. Hideyoshi relied on Takakage and his Kobayakawa Navy to complete his unification and his attempt to invade China and Korea. Takakage finally became an independent lord with large territories and was a member of Counsel of Five Elders under Hideyoshi’s government. Meanwhile, he built Mihara Castle in the estuary of the Nuta River as a naval base. As time passed, the castle continued growing. When he retired in 1596, he set Mihara Castle as his home while Nitakayama Castle was eventually abandoned. Its waste materials, such as those of stone walls, were brought over and reused for Mihara Castle.

The ruins of Mihara Castle
The current Nitakayama Mountain

To be continued in “Nitakayama Castle Part2”

173.新高山城 その1

新高山城が築かれた新高山は沼田川の西岸にありますが、その対岸にはもう一つの山、高山があります。この地方の領主、小早川氏は最初は新高山ではなく、高山に城を築きました。戦国時代に跡を継いだ小早川隆景が、一族の本拠地を新高山に移したのです。

立地と歴史

小早川氏が最初は高山に築城

新高山(にいたかやま)城は、現在の広島県三原市の新高山に、有力な戦国大名、小早川隆景によって築かれ、使われた城です。新高山(標高198m)は沼田川の西岸にありますが、その対岸にはもう一つの山、高山(標高190m)があります。この2つの山は、川を挟んで良いコントラストをかもしていて、度々別名として、新高山は雄高山(おすたかやま)と、高山の方は雌高山(めすたかやま)と呼ばれています。なぜ新高山の方が「雄(おす)」なのかは、「雌(めす)」と呼ばれる方より険しい地形をしているからのようです。実は、隆景の先代までの小早川氏は、最初は新高山ではなく、高山に城を築きました。隆景は、一族の本拠地をある理由で新高山に移したのです。

三原市の範囲と城の位置

城周辺の起伏地図

小早川氏はもともと、13世紀に鎌倉幕府に仕えていたときに、関東地方からこの地にやってきました。幕府は小早川氏の貢献に対して、平家を打倒したときには沼田荘を、承久の乱の後には竹原荘を恩賞として与えました。小早川氏は時が経つうちに、沼田小早川氏と竹原小早川氏の2系統に分かれていきました。高山城は、沼田小早川氏によって彼らの本拠地として、高山に築かれました。しかしいつ築かれたかはっきりとはわかっていません。2つの小早川氏は時には対立することもありましたが、総じて協力し、勢力拡大を図りました。その結果、芸予諸島で活動していた武士たちの力を取り込み、彼らは小早川水軍と呼ばれるようになりました。椋梨(むくなし)氏といった小早川氏の支族は、一族の中で重臣となり、当主を支えていました。

小早川氏の家紋、左三つ巴  (licensed by BraneJ via Wikimedia Commons)

竹原小早川氏の本拠地、木村城の位置

ところが、多くの戦が起こった戦国時代の16世紀になると、小早川氏を取り巻く状況は悪化しました。小早川氏がいた安芸国(広島県西部)は、約30もの小早川氏のような小領主たちによって分割されていました。そのため、西からは大内氏、北からは尼子氏のような有力な戦国大名によって狙われることになったのです。例えば、高山城は1539年に一時大内氏によって占拠され、1543年には尼子氏によって攻撃されたりしました。それに加えて、両小早川氏の当主は相次いで若死にするということが起こり、一族にとって危機となりました。

当時の大内氏当主、大内義隆肖像画、龍福寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
当時の尼子氏当主、尼子晴久肖像画、山口県山口博物館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

毛利氏から来た小早川隆景が新高山城を築城

その折、後に中国地方一の大大名となる毛利元就が、救世主として現れました(ある人たちにとっては乗っ取り屋とも言えますが)。元就もまた安芸国の小領主の一人でしたが、やがて領主たちのリーダーとなったのです。1543年、元就は、跡継ぎのいなくなった竹原小早川氏の養子として、息子の隆景を送り込みました。また、沼田小早川氏の重臣たちと謀り、隆景を沼田小早川氏をも継がせようとしたのです。1552年、幼く盲目だった当時の当主を追放し、乗っ取りを実行しました。その結果、隆景は両小早川氏を統一することになりました。この統合後、隆景が最初に行ったことは、高山城を離れ、近くに新高山城を築くことでした。

毛利元就肖像画、毛利博物館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
小早川隆景肖像画、米山寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

隆景がこのようなことをした理由は以下のように考えられています。まず、城を移転することは人心一新につながります。またこのことにより、配下の武士たちが城周辺に集住することになり、隆景を中心とした新たなヒエラルキーが形成されました。次に、新高山城が築かれた山は、高山城があった山よりも険しい岩山であり、防御面で有利であったことが挙げられます(そのため、これらの山が「雄」「雌」として対比されていたのでしょう)。最後に、山麓部分が川岸に接していたので、沼田川から瀬戸内海に通じる水上交通を利用するのに便利であったということもあったでしょう。

沼田川から見た新高山(雄高山、左側)と高山(雌高山、右側)

城だけでなく、文化センターとしても機能

小早川氏の記録によれば、1561年に元就が新高山城に10日間滞在しました。1560年に元就が陸奥国守護に就任したことを祝すため、隆景が招待したのです。彼らはその滞在の間、配下の武士、家族、従者を含めた儀式や宴会を開催しました。その記録には、山の中腹にはゲストをもてなす「会所」と呼ばれる建物があったと書かれています。彼らは、座敷から能を観劇し、庭では蹴鞠を楽しみました。歴史家は、そこには「主殿」と呼ばれる公式行事が行われる建物や、「清所」と呼ばれる台所もあったと推測しています。当時は通常これらの建物がセットになっていたからです。元就と隆景はまた、山頂部分あった別亭での連歌の会に参加しました。隆景は更に、太平記の講読会や、茶会を開催したりしました。この城には、私設図書館や茶室もあったということになります。総括すると、この場所は、戦いのための城だっただけではなく、周辺地域の文化センターの役割も果たしていたということになります。

会所があったと思われる新高山中腹(匡真寺跡)

隆景は、偉大な父親の子息だっただけではなく、自身も優れた戦国大名でした。元就の死後、隆景は実家の毛利氏を支え続け、豊臣秀吉による天下統一の時代を乗り切りました。秀吉は、天下統一と中国朝鮮への侵攻計画を果たすため、隆景と小早川水軍を頼りました。隆景はついに、独立した大大名となり、更には秀吉政権の下、五大老の一人ともなりました。その一方で、沼田川の河口に水軍基地として三原城を築城しました。この城は時の経過とともに拡張され、隆景が引退した1596年には本城となりました。その陰で、新高山城は廃城となってしまいます。新高山城の石垣などの廃材は、三原城に運ばれ再利用されました。

三原城跡
現在の新高山

「新高山城その2」に続きます。

13.Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part3

Go along the former Oshu Road to the north until you get near Abukuma River, and look back to the left, you will see another great scenery. It is 180m long stone walls on a hill along the river, called Komine Castle Eastern Stone Walls.

Features

Walking around Main Enclosure

If you want to see other attractions of the castle, you can get out of the main enclosure through the ruins of Sakura-no-mon (meaning the cherry gate) to walk around the stone walls of the enclosure on the belt enclosure, the lower tier of the main portion. The ruins of Tsukimi-Yagura (meaning the moon viewing turret) are in front of the gate ruins of the enclosure, which look very strong with their remaining stone wall base.

The map around the main enclosure

The ruins of Sakura-no-mon Gate
The entrance of the belt enclosure
The ruins of Tsukimi Turret seen from the second enclosure below
The back of the Tsukimi Turret Ruins

The belt enclosure surrounds the western and northern sides of the main enclosure. You can feel relaxed by walking on the belt enclosure, while enjoying looking at the great, long and high stone walls of the main enclosure. These stone walls look well-maintained. However, they collapsed heavily during Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011 and were repaired by Shirakawa City for the following eight years (completed in 2019).

The western part of the belt enclosure
The great stone walls of the main enclosure
The northern part of the belt enclosure
The explanation board of the stone walls being destroyed by the earthquake and repaired later on

You will eventually reach the other gate ruins of the belt enclosure, called Ya (arrow)-no-mon. You can see a great view of the three-level turret at the northeastern edge of the main enclosure on the right. However, if you were an enemy, the defenders would attack you through the turret’s machicolations and loopholes facing you.

The ruins of Ya-no-mon Gate
The turret seems to look targeting you

Going to Outside of Castle

Another recommendation for you is to visit the former third enclosure, which is the east of the main portion. It has turned into the city area mainly including public facilities. There is only one remaining castle building among the area, the Taiko-Yagura Turret, which was originally used beside the Taiko-mon Gate in the second enclosure. It was moved to a private sector, converted to a tea room, and finally moved to the current position where it has been since 1930.

The map around the castle

The Taiko Turret has become a tea room

If you go further to the east until the National Route 294 (the former Oshu Road), go along the road to the north until you get near Abukuma River, and look back to the left, you will see another great scenery. It is 180m long stone walls on a hill along the river, called Komine Castle Eastern Stone Walls. In fact, they were recently discovered when the pine trees on the hill were cut down for the bypass road constructions. They must have been built to protect the castle from the threats from the north. These stone walls connect to the back gate of the castle, which opens to the north, but you can’t go directly to the gate due to the construction site between them.

Komine Castle Eastern Stone Walls
Looking the stone walls from the bridge over the Abukuma River
No entry is allowed around the stone walls due to the constructions
The ruins of the back gate

My Impression

While visiting the well-remaining structures and restored buildings of Shirakawa-Komine Castle, I felt the strong intentions of Nagashige Niwa, the builder of them, to protect the castle from possible enemies from the north. He must have been one of the few lords to do it properly and quickly. I also think that the history during the Boshin War lets us to know that such a strong castle had a weak point and could not survive without enough soldiers and proper instructions

The three-level turret seen from Abukuma River, north of the castle

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 10-minute drive away from Shirakawa-Chuo Smart IC on the Tohoku Expressway.
There is a parking lot in the park.
By public transportation, the castle is very near the JR Shirakawa station. You can even see the nice view of the three-level turret from the platform.
From Tokyo to the station: Get the Tohoku Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Tohoku Line at Shin-Shirakawa Station. The destination will be the next station.

The castle ruins seen from the platform of the station

That’s all. Thank you.
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