51.Azuchi Castle Part1 (draft)

Azuchi Castle was, needless to say, known for the final and most popular home of Nobunaga Oda. Other than that, he created a typical style of Japanese castles, including the main tower, turrets, and white walls on top of the stone walls, which are guarded by defensive gates and are surrounded by water moats. The style was passed down from one generation to the next by other great Japanese lords. That’s why we still think it as the most typical Japanese castles’ style. Therefore, Azuchi castle was the inspiration for many other castles that came after it.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

However, the castle had a very short life for its impact. The construction of the castle launched in 1576. Nobunaga started to live in its main tower three years later. Its completion was done in September of 1581 (according to the luna calendar), just 9 months before Nobunaga’s death during the Honnoji Incident in Kyoto on the 3rd of June the following year. The main tower of the castle was burned down around the 15th of June for some unknown reasons. The Oda’s relatives still used the remaining parts of the castle for a while. Atter that, the castle was eventually abandoned in 1585 because their new home, which was called Hachimanyama Castle, was completed.

The ruins of Hachimanyama Castle

As you saw, the castle, which had many unique characters, suddenly appeared and disappeared in a short amount of time like its master, Nobunaga. As a result, it has a lot of mysteries which attract us. For example, its own name “Azuchi” is one of them. A record of the Hosokawa Clan says that Nobunaga changed the name of the land to Azuchi. However, the record doesn’t say why. Some speculate the name came from Kyoto’s nickname “Heian-rakudo” which borrows the two Chinese characters of Azuchi (安土). The original Chinese characters of Heian-rakudo is as followed: 平安楽土. They think Nobunaga wanted the castle to be the new capital of Japan. The speculation is not very plausible because other experts argue that other speculations are more plausible.

Azuchi Mountain

This article will focus on 5 items of the mysteries, which people often dispute about. I will also compare Theory A with Theory B for each item by summarizing the opinions about each one. Theory A will mainly consist of conventional wisdom from the officials, historians, and experts. Theory B, on the other hand, will focus on the opinions of Mr. Senda who is a famous castle archaeologist and from me (in the last part).

Location and History (Mystery Showdown)

Mystery of the Straight Main Route to the Mountain

Introduction

A surprising thing was discovered in the ruins of Azuchi Castle during the excavations since 1989 by Shiga Prefecture. Castles on mountains during the Sengoku Period usually had zigzagged routes to the top and had defensive walls, gates and turrets on the way to the top. Azuchi Castle Ruins had had stone walls on the way of the main route, which looked like a typical mountain castle at that time. However, the stone walls were built by Sokenji Temple at Azuchi Mountain during the Edo Period, abd not the Sengoku Period. The excavation team removed the stone walls and discovered that there was the original straight main route to the mountain, which is approximately 180m long. It also found the ruins of residential areas maybe for the senior vassals along the route, such as “Hideyoshi Hashiba (then later Hideyoshi Toyotomi who would be the ruler of Japan). In addition, four gate ruins were found around the entrance of the route. Three of the four gates had a simple design, called “Hira-koguchi”, where visitors (and possibly enemies) could have passed through easily. I wonder Why the straight main route was built instead of the zigzagged route which is typical of defensive castles during the Sengoku Period?

The diorama of the stone walls on the main route before it was removed, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum
The current main route of Azuchi Castle
The ruins of the residence of Hideyoshi Hashiba

Theory A

One theory suggests this route was used only for special visitors in special cases. It was particularly considered as the route for the emperor’s royal visit to Azuchi Castle though it never happened. That’s why the route was built straight for the convenience of the visitors. The straight layout might also have been emulated to look like the central street of Kyoto. In addition, there are no records of this route because it was rarely used. The three simple gates around the route entrance must have also been built only for these visits. The layouts were very similar to that of the imperial palace at that time. The gates were used depending on the visitors’ classes. The ruins of the residential areas along the route might have been used as the facilities for the visitors. According to the imaginary drawing through the use of CG of the main route, the great main tower of the castle stands over there (refer to the third picture at the bottom). The visitors on the route would feel the power of the castle’s master, Nobunaga Oda

The ruins of the main gate
The diorama of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum
The imaginary drawing of the main route of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Gifu Castle

Theory B

The next theory was the main route was built not only for the royal visit, but also for the residential areas, as I mentioned earlier. In fact, Nobunaga had built the similar straight main route in Komakiyama Castle on Komakiyama Mountain, which was his home earlier on. The residential areas of his senior vassals were constructed along the route, too. The route was straight until the midway point of the slope of the mountain but the route above had zigzagged patterns for defensive purposes. This had been done when Nobunaga was young, so he never met the emperor. Azuchi Castle had the same system as Komakiyama Castle. The route to the top zigzags after 180m. Several defensive gates were also built on the way to the upper part. Why didn’t Nobunaga make all the routes straight if he wanted them to use only for the royal visits? The reason for the three simple gates were designed to classify Nobunaga’s retainers when they went to the castle. In addition, the masters of the residential areas of Azuchi Castle were very busy and had their own territories in other locations. As a result, the areas were usually vacant, which wouldn’t appear on records.

The ruins of Komakiyama Castle
The main route of Komakiyama Castle
The zigzagged route of Komakiyama Castle just after the straight route

Mystery of the Main Hall

Introduction

The excavation team also researched the top area of Azuchi Mountain, which includes the main enclosure. They found another answer. The team discovered that the stone foundations of the main hall on the enclosure have wider intervals than the typical halls at that time. After some studies, it was found that the layout of the stone foundations of Azuchi Castle Hall is very similar to that of Seiryoden Hall in the imperial palace during the Edo Period. Shincho-koki, which is the most reliable biography of Nobunaga, stated that Azuchi Castle had room for the royal visit or the emperor’s stay. A noble’s diary also says that the emperor would go to Azuchi. What did the main enclosure of Azuchi Castle really look like?

The current main enclosure of Azuchi Castle

Theory A

One plausible theory suggests there must have been the main hall for the emperor on the main enclosure. Nobunaga might have thought he would move the emperor and the capital of Japan from Kyoto to Azuchi. Before the construction of Azuchi Castle, Nobunaga retired as the lord of the Oda Clan. He also resigned from all his positions in the imperial court until the completion of the castle. Nobunaga might have wanted to be the person who surpasses all the positions of Samurai and the imperial court. He actually gave his castle in Kyoto to the current prince. He also adopted the prince’s son. These facts might indicate that Nobunaga would invite one of them to Azuchi as the new emperor. If the new emperor lived in the main hall of the main enclosure, Nobunaga could look down on him from the much higher main tower. That would symbolize Nobunaga was just like the most powerful monarch of Japan.

The portrait of Prince Sanehito, owned by Sennyuji Temple, (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Theory B

An alternative theory suggests the main hall must have been the government offices. Nobunaga usually lived in the main tower and the second enclosure, with his family where other people were rarely allowed to enter. The other third enclosure on the mountain was used as the reception hall. Therefore, if the main enclosure was used just for the emperor, there would be no place for the government to stay in. According to architects, it is impossible to determine what was built using only stone foundations. The Shincho-koki biography also states that there was another hall, called “Nanden” (which means “south hall”) in the enclosure. It was thought that Nobunaga usually met his retainers there. “The royal visit room”, written in the biography, also states that there was probably part of the hall or another small hall. As for Nobunaga’s position, he might have destined to become the next shogun, which was the traditional position for the new shogunate, according to a historian’s study.

The center of the diorama above, showing the second enclosure, the main tower ruins, the main enclosure, and the third enclosure (from the left to the right), exhibited by Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum

Mystery of the Main Tower

Introduction

The main tower of Azuchi Castle is one of the examples of the first proper high buildings for Japanese castles at that time. It was said that Nobunaga was the only person who lived in a main tower according to records. The tower must have had a spiritual aura and authoritative presence. According to Gyuichi Ota who was the author of the Shincho-koki biography and Luis Frois, a missionary who visited Japan at that time, it was about 32m tall (41m including the tower base) composed 5 levels (6 floors and 1 basement). The tower was very colorful. Especially, the 5th floor was a red octagon shape with Buddhist paintings on the inside walls. The top 6th floor was a golden square shape with Chinese saints’ painted on the inside walls. There are a lot of remaining stone foundations to the base, but they just lack the central one, which comes from the original conditions. What did the main tower actually look like?

The stone foundations of the tower base, which lacks the central one
The miniature model of the 5th floor, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Museum
The miniature model of the 6th floor, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Museum

Theory A

A popular theory suggests there is a drawing which shows the design of the tower, called “Tenshu-sashizu” (which means “the design of the tower”). It was recorded and passed down by a magistrate family of the Kaga Domain. It doesn’t say it is the design of Azuchi Castle tower, however, it matches the records mentioned above and the on-site situations. Dr. Akira Naito made a restoration plan using the drawing, which is wildly accepted. According to the plan, the tower had an atrium structure, and a pagoda on the center of the base without the stone foundation. Experts speculate that the pagoda would indicate the appearance from the ground, written in the Lotus Sutra. You can see the 1/20 scale model based on the plan in Azuchi Castle Museum. You can also see the real life model of the 5th and 6th floors of the tower in Nobunaga no Yakata Museum. The tower was vewed as a heaven for Nobunaga who would reign over the pagoda as the only living god.

The miniature model of the main tower, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Museum
The atrium structure and the pagoda in the model
A figure of Nobunaga siting on the 5th floor

Theory B

Others have argued the plan based on the Tenshu-sashizu drawing. They say that it is impossible that the characteristic atrium structure was not recorded. For this reason, there is another restoration plan which doesn’t the atrium. Furthermore, the most controversial problem is that if you rebuild the main tower just as Gyuichi said, the tower will have to hang over the existing base. Dr. Yoshihiro Senda has an alternative theory however. He says that the tower would be able to be supported by Kake-zukuri method. This method involves building the foundation by combining many columns and horizontal beams like lattices on rocks or the ground. Buildings using this method can been seen in some old shrines and temples such as Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto. It has also been seen in some castles like Himeji and Fukuyama. Dr. Senda points out the traces of stone foundation were found beside the base, which could indicate the Kake-zukuri method was used. In addition, the decisive evidence could be found in the future. Nobunaga sent the screen of illustration of Azuchi Castle, called “Azuchi-san-zu-byobu” to the Pope. The screen was once exhibited in the Vatican Palace but disappeared mysteriously. Officials from Shiga Prefecture is currently seeking for it in Italy. If it is found, it could be the discovery of the century.

The building based on the plan without the atrium (licensed by D-one via Wikimedia Commons)
An example of castle buildings using the Kake-zukuri method, at Fukuyama Castle, quoted from Fukuyama Castle Museum Website
The area beside the tower base, where the traces of stone foundation were found
The imaginary drawing of the “Azuchi-san-zu-byobu” screen

Mystery of Sokenji Temple

Introduction

Nobunaga founded Sokenji Temple inside Azuchi Castle. It is a large castle for a castle. The buildings of the castle were not newly built but were collected from other temples. This temple currently worships Nobunaga. However, curious to say, the temple officially says it was founded by a priest after Nobunaga died. According to Gyuichi’s records, there was a stone, named Bonsan, in the main tower. And then, the stone was moved to the temple, Luis Frois said. The temple was located at the middle point between the center of the castle and the side entrance. The point was important fo protect the castle, where defensive systems could have been built. Why did Nobunaga build the temple instead of the systems?

The remaining Nio-mon Gate of Sokenji Temple
The remaining three-level turret of Sokenji Temple
The current side entrance

Theory A

Frois also said that Nobunaga founded the temple to make people worship himself there. the Bonsan stone was the icon of Nobunaga. Frois described that Nobunaga also built a public noticeboard which said people should go to the temple to worship him on his birthday. As a fact, Nobunaga thought his birthday (the 11ht of May according to the luna calender) like the western people. For example, he moved to the main tower on that day, not on other fortune days most Japanese people believed. the conclusion is that Nobunaga made the important spot to be his holy place as the temple.

The grave of Nobunaga at the second enclosure
There is a stone on the grave, which looks like Bonsan

Theory B

In fact, it was not rare that castles had temples inside. For instance, Kannonji Castle near Azuchi had Kannon-seji Temple. Takakage Kobayakawa, who was a great warlord in the Chugoku Region, built Kyoshinji Temple in his Ni-Takayama Castle. During the Muromachi and Sengoku Periods, the Samurai ceremonies consisted of two phases. One of them was to confirm the master-servant relationship at Shuden places. The other was to communicate with each other at Kaisho places. In the case of Azuchi Castle, the center of the castle was clearly equivalent to a Shuden place. Meanwhile, Sokenji Temple must have been used as a Kaisho place. For example, when Nobunaga invited his ally, Ieyasu Tokugawa to Azuchi Castle, a Noh play was held there. In addition, there are no records about worshiping Nobunaga at the Japanese side.

The diorama of Kannonji Castle, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum
Kannonshoji Temple (licensed by Jnn via Wikipedia Commons)
The ruins of Ni-Takayama Castle
The ruins of the Kyoahinji Temple

204.佐和山城 その1

滋賀県彦根市にある城といえば「彦根城」となるでしょうが、もう一つ歴史上重要な城がありました。佐和山城です。城跡にはほとんど遺物が残っていませんが、最後にその役割を彦根城に引き継いだためと見るべきでしょう。この記事では、佐和山城の歴史を4つの時代区分で説明していきます。

立地と歴史

滋賀県彦根市にある城といえば「彦根城」となるでしょうが、もう一つ歴史上重要な城がありました。佐和山城です。彦根駅をスタート地点とした場合、彦根城は西口から向かいます。佐和山城(跡)は、東口の方に行くと、佐和山城の案内と、城があった佐和山が目に入ってきます。それでは、佐和山城といえば、何を思い浮かべるかというと、やはり「石田三成」ということになるでしょう。「治部少(三成)に過ぎたるものが二つあり 嶋の左近と佐和山の城」という俗謡が有名です。しかし、この城は三成の時代のもっと前から、重要な役割を果たしていたのです。そして、その役割は変化しながら三成に受け継がれたのです。城跡にはほとんど遺物が残っていませんが、最後にその役割を彦根城に引き継いだためと見るべきでしょう。この記事では、佐和山城の歴史を4つの時代区分で説明していきます。

彦根城
佐和山城跡

南北近江の境目の城

佐和山城があった近江国(現在の滋賀県)は、京都に近く、早くから産業(農漁工商)や交通(水陸)が発達していました。よって領主や城の数も多く、室町時代には南近江・北近江それぞれに守護が置かれ、分割統治されていました。南近江は六角氏、北近江は京極氏で、北近江の範囲は京極5郡(伊香・浅井・坂田・犬上・愛知)と呼ばれたりしました。戦国時代になると、家臣の浅井氏が京極氏に取って代わり、戦国大名として六角氏と対立しました。佐和山城は、その南北近江の国境近くにあり(位置としては坂田郡)、両勢力の争奪の対象となりました。似たような位置づけの城としては、近くの鎌刃城が挙げられます。

近江国の範囲と城の位置

鎌刃城跡

佐和山城が最初に築かれたのは、鎌倉時代に遡ると言われています(下記補足1)。「境目の城」として現れるのは、1552年(天文21年)のことです。当時は六角氏の勢力が大きく、佐和山城は六角氏が有していました。その年に当主の六角定頼が亡くなると、跡継ぎの義賢は佐和山城を拠点(後詰)に北近江の浅井久政領に攻め込みます。ところが、逆に久政の反撃を受け、佐和山城は浅井氏のものになりました。その後、両者は攻防や和睦を繰り返しますが、佐和山城はおおむね浅井氏が維持しました。1561年(永禄4年)以後は、浅井氏の重臣、磯野員昌が最前線の城として守っていました。

(補足1)佐保山(佐和山)ハ昔佐々貴十代ノ屋形太郎判官定綱ノ六男佐保六郎時綱居住ノ所ナリ(淡海温故録)

江戸時代の浮世絵に描かれた六角義賢  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
浅井久政肖像画、高野山持明院蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
江戸時代の浮世絵に描かれた磯野員昌 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

六角氏の観音寺城、浅井氏の小谷城・鎌刃城は、早くから石垣が導入された事例として知られています。もしかすると、佐和山城にもこのころから石垣が築かれていたかもしれません。

小谷城の石垣
鎌刃城の石垣

信長の近江国での居城

やがて織田信長が台頭すると、佐和山城も新たな局面を迎えます。浅井家の当時の当主、浅井長政は信長と同盟を結び、1568年(永禄11年)の信長上洛時には、宿敵の六角義賢を駆逐しました。このとき、信長は佐和山城に入り、長政と初対面したと伝わります。ところが、2年後の1570年(元亀元年)に信長が朝倉氏を攻めると、突如長政は信長に敵対します。同年6月、信長・徳川連合軍と浅井・朝倉連合軍との間で姉川の戦いが起こり、信長方が勝利しました。磯野員昌は翌年2月まで、佐和山城に籠城しますが、ついに降伏開城しました。

織田信長肖像画、狩野宗秀作、長興寺蔵、16世紀後半 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

以降、信長は佐和山城に重臣の丹羽長秀を配置しました。佐和山城は、東西日本を結ぶ東山道が傍を通っていて、当時の信長の本拠地・岐阜城と京都の中間点に当たりました。信長にとっても重要な拠点だったのです。それだけでなく、信長は佐和山城に頻繁に滞在しました。信長の伝記「信長公記」には、元亀2年以後13回も信長が滞在した記録があります。同国に自身の本拠、安土城を築くまでは、佐和山城を近江国での居城としていたのです。

丹羽長秀肖像画、東京大学史料編纂所蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

特に、1573年(元亀4年)5月からは、大船建造のため、2ヶ月も滞在しています(下記補足2)。この当時は、琵琶湖の付属湖の一つ、松原内湖(まつばらないこ)が、佐和山城のすぐ近くまで入り込んでいました。その松原で、信長は陣頭指揮を取り、長さ約53メートル、幅約13メートルもの当時としては巨船を建造したのです。信長は早速、7月6日にその船で坂本まで乗り付け、26日には高島攻めにも使いました。ところが、その大船の活躍の記録はそれきりで、3年後には解体され、十艘の小舟に作り替えられてしまったのです(下記補足3)。湖で使うには大きすぎて、入れる港や場所が限られたためです。それでもその後、城主の丹羽長秀は安土城普請の総奉行となり、大船建造の棟梁・岡部又右衛門は天主建築の大工頭を務めました。

(補足2)五月廿二日、佐和山に御座を移され、多賀・山田山中の材木をとらせ、佐和山山麓の松原へ勢利川通り引下し、国中鍛冶、番匠、杣(そま)を召し寄せ、御大工岡部又右衛門棟梁にて、舟の長さ三十間・横七間、櫨(ろ)を百挺立てさせ、艫舳(ともえ)に矢蔵を上げ、丈夫に致すべきの旨、仰せ聞かせられ、在佐和山なされ、油断なく夜を日に継仕候間、程なく、七月五日出来訖。事も生便敷(おびただしき)大船上下耳目を驚かす、案のごとく(信長公記)

(補足3)先年佐和山にて作置かせられ候大船、一年公方様御謀反の砌、一度御用に立てられ、此上は大船入らず、の由候て、猪飼野甚介に仰付けられ取りほどき、早舟十艘に作りをかせられ(信長公記)

大船の模型、安土城考古博物館にて展示

信長は後に、安土城を中心とする琵琶湖岸の城郭ネットワークを構築し、支城には重臣を配置します。佐和山城は水上交通の拠点でもあったので、その中でも最重要の支城の一つになりました。佐和山城跡からは、信長時代のものと思われる瓦片(コビキA)が発見されています。瓦葺きの建物があったということです。他の琵琶湖岸の支城、坂本城には「天主」があったという記録があるのと、信長が長期滞在していることから、佐和山城にもこの頃から「天主」があってもおかしくはありません。一歩譲って、石垣の上に、信長のための御殿はあったのでしょう。

安土城天主模型、安土城郭資料館にて展示

秀吉領国の最前線→そして三成登場

1582年(天正10年)本能寺の変が起き、信長が明智光秀に討たれますが、その後は豊臣(羽柴)秀吉が天下統一を進めます。1584年(天正12年)に、徳川家康との間で小牧・長久手の戦いが起きたときには、近江国は秀吉領の最前線に当たりました(味方の池田氏が美濃国にいましたが)。佐和山城には、秀吉の重臣・堀秀政が入っていました。秀政が出陣するときには、多賀秀種を城代としていました。秀種は、後に大和国(奈良県)の宇田松山城を整備したことでも知られています。この頃「広間之作事」を行ったという記録があるので、佐和山城の拡張も行ったのでしょう。(堀秀政書状、多賀文書)

堀秀政肖像画、長慶寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
多賀秀種肖像画、石川県立歴史博物館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
宇陀松山城跡

翌年には、近江国に当時の秀吉の後継者候補・豊臣秀次の居城・八幡山城が築かれました。佐和山城には、秀次を補佐する堀尾吉晴が配置されました。吉晴は、後に浜松城の天守・石垣を整備した人物です。家康との緊張関係は続いていたため、佐和山城も更に強化されたと見るべきでしょう。関ケ原の戦いのときには天守があったことが記録されていますが(伊達家文書・結城秀康書状)吉晴の時代までに整備されていたのではないかという意見もあります。天守は5層であったという伝承もありますが(西明寺絵馬)、山上の天守なので3層程度であろうという推定もあります(中井均氏など)。

八幡山城跡
堀尾吉晴肖像画、春光院蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
浜松城の復興天守と現存石垣
佐和山の山麓にある5層天守の模型

1590年(天正18年)の小田原合戦により秀吉の天下統一がなされると、家康が関東に移り、秀次とその家老たちも東海地方に移っていきました。秀吉の家康に対する前線が東に移動したことになります。その空いた近江国は秀吉の直轄領になりますが、その代官として佐和山城を任されたのが石田三成だったのです(彼自身の領地は美濃国にありました)。そして文禄の役(朝鮮侵攻)の後、1595年(文禄4年)頃、佐和山城を含む北近江の大名(約20万石)となりました。三成は文禄の役のとき、他の奉行とともに朝鮮に渡り、中央と現地との調整に奔走していて、その論功とも考えられます。

石田三成肖像画、東京大学史料編纂所蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

三成自身は秀吉を支える最側近であり(秀吉が病のときには片時も離れることを許さなかったといいます)、政権の奉行として国内外の政策(各大名の取次・指導、太閤検地、朝鮮侵攻など)に多忙であり、城にはほとんどいませんでした。そのため城を守っていたのは、父親の正継や兄の正澄でした。領地の統治は、家臣の嶋左近などに任せていました。

石田正継肖像画(写)、妙心寺寿聖院蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

しかし、その方針については、三成が1596年(文禄5年)に領内に発布した掟書が残されています。
その掟書には、主には以下のことが定められていました。
・領主側の夫(人足)遣いの制限
・検地帳記載者に対する耕作権の保証
・年貢率の決定プロセスの明示化
・升の公定と統一
・身分確定と居住地の固定化
・百姓訴訟権の保証(目安)など
領民として認められる権利と、それに対応する義務が明確化されていました。他の大名と比べ、きめ細かさが際立っていて、三成が優れた官僚・民政家だったことが伺われます。三成の時代には、城全体を惣構(土塁・堀)で囲んだという記録があり(須藤通光書状)これが城の完成形と言われています。大手門や城下町は、もともと東側の山麓にありました。しかし、三成の居館は西側にあったとされるので、城の大手や城下町が、西側に移動または拡張したとも考えられます。

「佐和山城古図」彦根市立図書館蔵

井伊家つなぎの城

秀吉が亡くなると、三成は豊臣政権の中枢である5奉行の一人となりました。ところが、いわゆる「三成襲撃事件」の収拾策として、佐和山に隠退となりました。その後はご存じの通り、西軍の総大将として、1600年(慶長5年)9月15日、関ケ原で家康と戦い敗れてしまいました。しかし、総大将は大坂を動かなかった毛利輝元であり、三成は現地司令官として悪戦苦闘したという見方もあります。三成は佐和山城に戻れず、北近江の領内に潜伏しているところを捕縛され、京都で斬首となりました(嶋左近は関ケ原で戦死)。佐和山城は、関ケ原の2日後、東軍に包囲され落城しました。

「関ヶ原合戦図屏風」、関ケ原町歴史民俗資料館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

戦後、三成の領地は、家康の筆頭家老ともいうべき井伊直政に与えられました。今度は、大坂に居座る豊臣家に対する最前線・包囲網という位置づけでした。やはり、この地は家康にとっても重要な拠点だったのでしょう。そして、家康と井伊家は、新しい拠点として彦根城を築城します。しかし、井伊直政は当初、佐和山城に入城し、1602年(慶長7年)にそこで亡くなったのです。直政の家老たちの屋敷も、佐和山の山上にありました。彦根城を築城したのは、跡継ぎの直継なのです。

井伊直政肖像画、彦根城博物館 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

佐和山城の建物や石垣は、彦根城に部材として転用されました(下記補足4、5)。佐和山の南側の斜面は、不自然にえぐられていますが、石垣を搬出する経路だったのではないかという意見があります(中井均氏)。三成の城であったため、徹底的に破壊されたとの見解が多いですが、むしろ利用されたと言うべきでしょう。佐和山城の役割は、彦根城に引き継がれたのです。佐和山の山麓には、井伊家の菩提寺である清凉寺と龍潭寺が建てられ、山自体も「御山」として彦根藩により維持されました。山は今でも、両寺の所有となっています。

(補足4)石垣ノ石櫓門等マテ佐和山・大津・長浜・安土ノ古城ヨリ来ル(井伊年譜)

(補足5)本丸之天守茂只今之より高ク御拝領之後御切落シ被遊候由、九間御切落とも云又七間とも申候実説相知レかたく(古城御山往昔咄聞集書)

城周辺の起伏地図

清涼寺
龍潭寺

リンク、参考情報

・「近江佐和山城・彦根城/城郭談話会」サンライズ出版
・「近江の山城を歩く/中井均編著」サンライズ出版
・「佐和山城跡のご案内」彦根観光協会パンフレット
・「よみがえる日本の城22」学研
・「石田三成伝/中野等著」吉川弘文館
・「歴史群像153号、戦国の城 近江佐和山城」学研
・「信長と家臣団の城/中井均著」角川選書
・「週刊日本の城改訂版第21号」デアゴスティーニジャパン
・「堀尾氏ゆかりの城館を辿る」堀尾吉晴公共同研究会
・「佐和山城と石田三成/米原市柏原宿歴史館」稲枝地区公民館講座資料
・「文化財教室シリーズ124 近世の古城Ⅲ 佐和山城」滋賀県文化財保護協会
・「埋蔵文化財活用ブックレット5(近江の城郭1) 佐和山城跡」滋賀県教育委員会」
・「びわこの考湖学22・23」産経新聞滋賀版
・「現代語訳 信長公記/太田牛一著、中川太古訳」新人物文庫

「佐和山城その2」に続きます。

今回の内容を趣向を変えて、Youtube にも投稿しました。よろしかったらご覧ください。

23.Odawara Castle Part3

I introduced the histories and features of Odawara Castle until the Sengoku Period in the previous articles. In this article, I will talk about the histories and features of the castle starting from the Edo Period to the present time. The catchphrase of this article will be “Disaster Recoveries”.

I introduced the histories and features of Odawara Castle until the Sengoku Period in the previous articles. In this article, I will talk about the histories and features of the castle starting from the Edo Period to the present time. The catchphrase of this article will be “Disaster Recoveries”.

Location and History

Period of Okubo Clan

After the Battle of Odawara Castle in 1590, Ieyasu Tokugawa who captured the Kanto Region chose Edo, not Odawara, as his home. However, he assigned his senior vassal, Tadayo Okubo to Odawara Castle instead as the founder of the Odawara Domain. That meant the castle was still important in order to protect the region from enemies at the western edge of the region. Tadayo lived in the castle while maintaining its stone walls. He used the main hall that the Hojo Clan built, and the Main Tower the clan may have built also. This was because the style of the tower was different from those of the castle later on, but there is no certain evidence of this. Ieyasu often stayed in Odawara Castle when he went hunting or looked around his territories. Despite the close relationship, Tadayo’s successor, Tadachika Okubo was fired by Ieyasu due to a minor violation in 1614. It was actually said that it was caused by the conflicts between the Okubo Clan and the Honda Clan that was another senior vassal family.

The portrait of Tadayo Okubo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Masanobu Honda, owned by Kaga-Maeda Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The image of the first main tower, from the signboard at the site

Period of Inaba Clan

The Odawara Domain was revived in 1632 when Masakatsu Inaba, who was a close vassal of the shogun, became the lord of the castle. He was also a son of Lady Kasuga who was the foster mother of the shogun. Masakatsu was expected to guard the barrier of Hakone near Odawara, which would be the defensive line of the Kanto Region. However, in the following year, Kanei Great Earthquakes happened and it destroyed most of the castle and the castle town. The Tokugawa Shogunate, which planned the shogun’s visit to Kyoto after staying in Odawara in 1634, rapidly launched the reconstructions of the castle. That concluded the basic style of Odawara Castle during the Edo Period. For example, the main tower was rebuilt like the current one, but not the same one. The main portion of the castle was all surrounded by stone walls. The main hall in the main enclosure was built only for the shogun. Therefore, the lord of the castle stayed in his hall in the second enclosure, which was called “Oyakata”.

The portrait of Masakatsu Inaba, owned by Yogenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The imaginary drawing of Odawara Castle during the Edo Period, from the signboard at the site
The image of the second main tower, from the signboard at the site

The castle town was also developed as a transportation hub of Tokaido Road, one of the main roads in Japan. On the other hand, the range of the castle was reduced to only on the plain land, compared to that during the Sengoku Period. There were exemptions that some of the So-gamae structure were used as borders of the domain or the town. For instance, the eastern gate of the town to Edo, called “Edoguchi-mitsuke” used the So-gamae earthen walls. In the Yamanokami Ditch on the hill, guards monitored the border of the domain at the gate which was built there.

The ruins of “Edoguchi-mitsuke”
The Yamanokami Ditch

Period of Okubo Clan again

The Okubo Clan became the lord of the Odawara Domain (Odawara Castle) after the Inaba Clan moved to the Takada Domain in 1686. Tadatomo Okubo who was the lord of the clan supported the current shogun as a member of shogun’s council of elders. Few years later, the Genroku Earthquake occurred in 1703 which destroyed the castle and its town again. Mt. Fuji also erupted four years later, which was called “Hoei Eruption”, and its volcanic ash caused serious crop failure to the farms. The castle lost all its main tower and halls, but the shogunate didn’t help the domain in this case. As a result, it took as long as 18 years to restore them except for the main hall for the shogun which was not needed any more. The reconstruction of the main tower was a third generation, which survived until the end of the Edo Period. When the costal defensive system against possible invasions was needed, three batteries were built along the remaining earthen walls of the So-gamae structure beside the sea. However, they were unfortunately demolished until now.

The image of the third main tower, from the signboard at the site

Odawara Castle until Now

After the Meiji Restoration, Odawara Castle was abandoned and most of the castle buildings were scraped. Meanwhile, the stone walls of the main portion were still used as the base of an imperial villa. However, the Great Kanto Earthquakes, which happened on the 1st of September in 1923, destroyed the villa, the stone walls and the only remaining castle building, was the one-level turret of the second enclosure. This disaster had mostly erased the scenery of the remaining castle. The villa was eventually turned into Odawara Castle Park.
People in Odawara started to restore the castle in 1934 by rebuilding the stone walls and the turret of the second enclosure. The 4th main tower and its stone wall base was rebuilt in 1960. Since then, Tokiwagi-mon Gate in 1970, Akagane-mon Gate in 1997, and Umadashi-mon Gate in 2009 were restored to recreate their scenery during the Edo Period. They could be considered one of the disaster recoveries which the castle experienced again and again.

Some of the stone walls of the main enclosure, which collapsed in the Great Kanto Earthquakes
The current fourth main tower
The current Umadashi-mon Gate

Features

From Third Enclosure to Second Enclosure

Past visitors to the castle would usually enter the castle from the main gate while current visitors would start from Ohoribata Steet beside the moat of the second enclosure. (Ohoribata means “beside the moat”) However, how about if we take another route instead? This route starts from the entrance to the ruins of Kodamon-guchi Gate beside the Odawara post office. It goes on the few remaining earthen walls of the third enclosure to the Ohoribata Street via the gate ruins. This gate had originally been the main gate of the castle during the Sengoku Period. It was said that Kenshin Uesugi attacked the gate first and followed by Shingen Takeda later on.

The ruins of the main gate in the third enclosure, which is used as a bell tower
The signboard of the gate ruins

The moat of the second enclosure was originally a pond surrounding the castle, called “Large Pond” or “Lotus Pond”. The stone walls and the single-level turret over the moat were restored after the Great Kanto Earthquakes. The original stone walls, which were destroyed by the earthquakes, were much higher than the current ones.

The moat of the second enclosure
The restored stone walls and the single-level turret in the second enclosure

If you enter the front entrance of the Odawara Castle Park, you will enter the Umadashi-mon Gate through the earthen bridge over the moat. This gate was the latest restored gate in the castle, using wooden materials. It has a square space, called Masugata, inside, which makes it tough for enemies to penetrate.

The restored Umadashi-mon Gate

If you pass the gate and walk around the moat again, you will eventually reach the Akagane-mon Gate, which is the front entrance of the second enclosure. You will need to walk across the wooden bridge to go over the moat again, which comes from the castle’s defensive layout. The gate was also restored to its original conditions with the help of old photos, records, and the results of the excavations. This Masugata System looks stronger than The Umadashi-mon Gate, which is surrounded by stone walls and mud walls.

The restored Akagane-mon Gate

The inside of the second enclosure is mostly an empty space but had the main hall for the lord (during the Edo Period) and the imperial villa (during the Meiji and Taisho Eras).

The space of the second enclosure and the main enclosure just above the hill

Arriving at Main Enclosure

We will eventually reach the main enclosure from the second enclosure through Tokiwagi-bashi Bridge. There used to be the eastern moat surrounding the main enclosure under the bridge, however, it has been converted into an iris garden which you can enjoy if you walk down to the former bottom of the moat. You can also see many hydrangeas planted on the slopes of the enclosure during the summer season.

The former bottom of the moat

After crossing the bridge, you will finally enter the last gate, called Tokiwagi-mon. It was restored using concrete instead of wood. The original gate had the Masugata system as well, however, the final restoration lacks one side of the walls probably to make it more accessible for visitors.

The Tokiwagi-mon Gate

There is the reconstructed main tower in the main enclosure. It is very large for a three-level tower which is 27.2m tall and about 39m tall (including the tower base). The tower has four floors inside. It is the seventh tallest main tower among the existing ones in Japan. It is the fourth generation of the main towers of this castle, which was built emulating the miniature model and records of the third generation. However, the fourth generation has the observation platform for visitors on top, which is different from the design of the third generation tower. For this reason, the current tower is regarded not as “restored” but rather “reconstructed”. The inside of the tower is used as a historical museum, which was renovated are reinforced with earthquake-proof technology back in 2016.

The current main tower (the fourth generation)
The inside of the tower

You can see views of Odawara in all directions from the platform, including where you’ve already visited.

A view from the tower (Odawara Station)
A view from the tower (Hachiman-yama old enclosure)
A view from the tower (the main and second enclosures)
A view from the tower facing west (including Sagami Bay)

Hopes for the Future and Lessons of the Past

If you get out of the main enclosure through the northern exit, you will reach Goyomai Enclosure. (Goyomai means “official stored rice”) Unfortunately, you can not enter it because of the excavations. Instead, you can see the panels around, which showcases what were found there so far. For example, the ruins of a stone pawed garden, including beautiful cut stones, during the Sengoku Period were discovered. The site was turned into warehouses for rice during the Edo Period, which originated the name of the enclosure. I’m looking forward to seeing this site again after it becomes more developed.

The Goyomai Enclosure
The explanation about the stone pawed garden
The explanation about the Tokugawa Shogunate roof tiles

If you go to the southern slopes of the main enclosure, you can see a lot of large stones at the foot which collapsed during the Great Kanto Earthquakes. In fact, the stones were used for the stone walls which covered the top of the enclosure. Some of the stones are still connected to each other forming a curve. That means they slid down from the top to the foot keeping the form when the earthquakes happened. It must have been caused by the enormous strength of the earthquakes. The exhibitions made me realize how important being prepared for disasters is.

The curved stone walls lie down at the foot of the enclosure
Other stone walls which collapsed during the earthquakes

Finally, It may be a good idea to visit the southern moat nearby. It is also known as “lotus moat” which uses the same name during the Sengoku Period. You may be seeing the same scenery as people at that time, which shows the castle has a long history.

The southern moat
Hakone Gate Ruins near the moat

My Impression

There are a lot of attractions about Odawara Castle from the Sengoku Period to the present time. Maybe you will need more than one day to see all of them. The lords of the castle achieved many things. For instance, they constructed one of the greatest castles and rebuilt the main towers three times. These works were passed down from one lord to the next. It may look simple, but it is difficult to maintain. I speculate that if another disaster happens in the future to Odawara, people there will survive along with Odawara Castle. They could be a role model for other people under similar situations in the future.

The current main tower

That’s all. Thank you.

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