97.Kagoshima Castle Part2

There are plenty of history to see even in the museum.

Features

Main Enclosure still looks like Castle

Today, the ruins of Kagoshima Castle are used like that the Main Enclosure as the Kagoshima Prefectural Center for Historical Material called Reimeikan, the Second Enclosure as other public facilities, and Shiroyama Mountain as the Shiroyama Park. In particular, the Main Enclosure still looks like a castle today because its stone walls are still intact and its front gate was recently restored. If you stand in front of the enclosure, you may feel its pride as the home base of the Shimazu Clan.

The aerial photo around the castle

The Main Enclosure of Kagoshima Castle

The stone walls, which are still surrounded by the water moat, are piled precisely by using well processed stones in a method called Kirikomi-hagi. An interesting thing about them is that their one corner has an internal angle of two walls, called Irisumi. This is because the corner faces the northeastern side which was thought to be an unlucky direction, called Kimon or the Devil’s Gate. People who built the castle considered that the specially built corner could prevent misfortunes from the direction.

The stone walls of the Main Enclosure
The Irisumi part at the northeastern corner

The front gate called Goro-mon stands out between the stone walls. It has been said it is one of the largest castle gates in Japan, with its height and width of about 20m. it was restored using wood in April 2020, after 147 years since it had been burned down in 1873, based on its old photos and the remaining stone foundations.

The restored Goro-mon Gate
The gate uses thick woods

You can enter the gate by going across the original stone bridge over the moat in front of it. Other stone walls stand inside the gate and you will need to turn right and walk on the zigzagged steps or slopes to reach the center of the enclosure. You can see an uncountable number of dents on the stone walls, which were traces of gun shot by the government army in Seinan War. They make us understand how severe the attack of the army was.

Going across the original stone bridge to enter the gate
The inside of the gate
Some of the dents on the stone walls caused by Seinan War

Wonderful exhibitions in Reimeikan Museum

The Reimeikan is an excellent historical museum, which has huge amounts of historical, folk and art items regarding the Kagoshima Prefecture. You can learn about the history including the castle and culture of the prefecture inside. There may be too many items to see in one day. I also recommend seeing very well designed miniature models of historical buildings such as Kagoshima Castle, Shibushi Castle (a local castle in the prefecture) and Izumi Outer Castle.

The Reimeikan Museum
The miniature model of Kagoshima Castle
The miniature model of Izumi Outer Castle

There are also many dioramas of historical events which helps visitors understand more easily. I hope these good activities of the museum will continue to become more popular.

The diorama of the Tenmonkan street in Taisho Era
The diorama of the Battle of Toba-Fushimi where the Satsuma Domain defeated the Tokugawa Shogunate troops

Shiroyama Mountain like natural park

The Shiroyama Park on Shiroyama Mountain behind the Main Enclosure is easy to go to because the mountain is not so high at only 107m above sea level. You can go up a trail like walking to the top which look like a natural park rather than a historical site. This could be because the Satsuma Domain rarely used the mountain as part of the castle and banned people from entering it during the Edo Period. You can only see the trace of enclosures, which are surrounded by earthen walls, coming from the Kamiyama Clan’s mountain castle before the Shimazu Clan.

The trail to the top of the mountain
The place which is surrounded the earthen walls

Anyway, the top is a very popular view spot of Sakurajima (an active volcano island) and Kagoshima city area, where you can also enjoy the view.

The observation platform near the top
A view from the platform, but Sakurajima Island hides behind the cloud

To be continued in “Kagoshima Castle Part3”
Back to “Kagoshima Castle Part1”

97.鹿児島城 その2

博物館の中だけでも見るものがたくさんあります。

特徴、見どころ

城らしさを残す本丸

現在鹿児島城跡は、本丸は鹿児島県歴史・美術センター「黎明館」に、二の丸は他の公共施設に、そして城山は城山公園となっています。特に本丸は今日でも城のように見えます。周りを囲む石垣が今でも健在であり、更に最近正門が復元されたからです。本丸の手前に立ってみると、島津氏の本拠地としての威厳を感じます。

城周辺の航空写真

鹿児島城本丸

水堀に囲まれている石垣は、よく加工された石を精密に積み上げて築かれており、この技法は「切り込みハギ」と呼ばれています。この石垣に関して面白いのは、一か所の角の石が内側に向かって屈曲していて、これは「入隅(いりすみ)」と言います。この角部分は北東側を向いており、鬼門として不吉な方角とされていました。よって築城者は、このような特殊な築き方をすることで、この方角からの災厄を防ぐことができると考えたのです。

本丸の石垣
入隅となっている北東角

正門の「御楼門」は石垣の間でとても目立っています。この門は日本の城門の中でも最大級のものと言われていて、その高さと幅はともに約20mあります。1873年に焼失して以来、147年経った2020年に古写真や現存する礎石に基づき、木造建築として復元されました。

復元された御楼門
太い木材が使われています

門前の堀を渡る現存する石橋を渡って門に入っていきます。門の内側には別の石垣が立ちはだかっているので、右に曲がる必要があり、更に曲がりくねった石段を登って曲輪の中心部に至ります。その石垣には無数のへこみがあります。これらは西南戦争のときの政府軍による砲撃の弾痕であり、いかにこの攻撃がすさまじかったかがわかります。

現存する石橋を渡っていきます
門の内側
西南戦争時の弾痕

黎明館のすばらしい展示

黎明館は優れた歴史博物館で、鹿児島県に関する数多の歴史、民俗、芸術品を展示しています。館内では鹿児島城を含む県の歴史や文化について学ぶことができます。あまりにも見るものが多くて一日では回り切れない程です。その中でも、鹿児島城、志布志城(県内にある城)、出水外城(麓)などの歴史的文物の模型が素晴らしいので見学することをお勧めします。

黎明館
鹿児島城の模型
出水外城の模型

また、歴史的出来事を再現したジオラマもたくさんあり、ビジターがより理解できるようになっています。このような活動をこれからも続けていただき、この施設ももっと人気が出ればよいと思います。

大正時代の天文館通りのジオラマ
鳥羽伏見の戦いのジオラマ

自然公園のような城山

本丸の裏手にある城山公園はとても行きやすい場所です。山自体は標高107mでそんなに高くないからです。山頂には山道をウォーキング感覚で登って行くことができ、史跡というよりも自然公園といった感じです。これは、薩摩藩が城の一部としてはこの山をほとんど使わなかったことと、江戸時代の間、民衆の立ち入りを禁止していたからと思われます。わずかに、島津氏以前にここに山城を築いた上山氏の遺跡として、土塁に囲まれている曲輪の跡が残っている程度です。

頂上に向かう歩道
土塁に囲まれている場所

ただ、頂上は桜島(活火山島)と鹿児島市街地が望める人気のビュースポットとなっているので、景色を楽しんでください。

頂上近くの展望台
展望所からの景色、桜島は雲に隠れています

「鹿児島城その3」に続きます。
「鹿児島城その1」に戻ります。

97.Kagoshima Castle Part1

The home base of the Shimazu Clan and the final place of Seinan War

Location and History

Castle is built after Battle of Sekigahara

Kagoshima Castle was the home base of the Shimazu Clan during the Edo Period and is also known as the final battlefield of Seinan War which was the last civil war in Japan in 1877. The Shimazu Clan had been a great warlord in the southern part of the Kyushu Region during the Sengoku Period between the middle 15th and the late 16th Centuries. However, in the fateful Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, the West Squad including the clan was completely defeated by the East Squad, led by Ieyasu Tokugawa who would be the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. The Shimazu troops with about 1500 soldiers somehow escaped from the battlefield in the Chubu Region (central Japan) to their home base of Satsuma Province in the Kyushu Region. However, only 80 clan members survived.

The location of the castle

The folding screens of the Sekigahara Battle, owned by Sekigahara Town History and Folklore Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The Shimazu Clan was worried that the shogunate would attack Satsuma Province directly. Therefore, the clan decided to build a new castle as their home base, which was stronger than their previous one like a simple hall. It was built at the foot of the Shiroyama Mountain on the west, which would be used as the final place for emergencies. It had the Main and Second Enclosures which were surrounded by stone walls and water moats from the north, the east and the south. The Main Enclosure had the Main Hall for the lord inside and one of the largest castle gates in Japan, called Goro-mon. However, the defense system of the castle was still not as complex as those of other major castles in Japan, such as the Main Tower, several-level turrets, and high, elaborately bent stone walls. This was because the Satsuma Domain led by the Shimazu Clan also had a unique defense system called Tojo or the Outer Castles. It refers to the domain sending many of its retainers to their local sites and letting them govern and protect it by themselves, which was different from other domains bringing their retainers together in their home base.

The miniature model of Kagoshima Castle, viewed from the northeastern direction, exhibited by the Kagoshima Prefectural Center for Historical Material
Thw part of Goro-mon Gate from the miniature model above
The miniature model of Izumi Outer Castle, a representative one in the Satsuma Domain, exhibited by the Kagoshima Prefectural Center for Historical Material

Luckily, the shogunate allowed the Satsuma Domain to continue to govern Satsuma Province until the end of the Edo Period. Even in Anglo-Satsuma War in 1863 when the English Navy battleships shot the Kagoshima city area, the castle was not targeted because it didn’t have tall buildings. After the Meiji Restoration, the castle was used as the prefectural office and as a Japanese Army base, but the buildings of the Main Enclosures were unfortunately burned down by an accidental fire in 1874.

The old photo of Kagoshima Castle, taken just before burning down, exhibited by the Kagoshima Prefectural Center for Historical Material

Outbreak of Seinan War

The climax event for the castle finally happened in 1877. Takamori Saigo, one of the Three Greatest Heroes of the Restoration, quit all his government posts, being against the other two, Toshimichi Okubo and Takayoshi Kido, and returned to his home of Kagoshima in 1873. He established his private school called Shigakko in the Second Enclosure of Kagoshima Castle in 1874 to educate young warriors. He tried to control the young people gently, however, as a result, he became the head of the rebellion against the government led by Okubo, which eliminated the privileges of warriors, such as having a sword, and it cut their hereditary salaries in 1876. Several rebellions happened in the same year, followed by the largest Seinan War led by Saigo, which occurred in February of 1877.

The portrait of Takamori Saigo by Edoardo Chiossone (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Toshimichi Okubo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Saigo with his troops decided to go north and capture Kumamoto Castle. He and his crew were at first optimistic as they were professional warriors and accommodated supporters from other areas in the Kyushu Region, with the total of 30,000 at maximum. While the number of the defenders in the castle was only over 3,000 and many of them were drafted farmers. The Saigo troops even expected that the defenders would soon surrender because some of their leaders had come from Satsuma. However, the defenders, led by General Tani, never surrendered and Okubo sent the reinforcement to the castle. It also had many drafted soldiers, but was more well trained than Saigo expected and more equipped and supplied than the Saigo troops. The government even used advanced information technologies such as telegraph the Saigo troops never had. Saigo had to withdraw from Kumamoto Castle in April and tried to stay in other areas in the Kyushu Region, such as Hitoyoshi Castle, but all failed. He finally declared the dissolution of his troops in August. He and his close warriors of only nearly 400 wanted to have their last and desperate battle in their original home base, Kagoshima Castle.

Kumamoto Castle
The commanders of Chinzei Chindai led by General Tateki Tani, from Asahi encyclopedia (licensed under Public Domain via Wikipedia Commons)

Last moment of Saigo and Castle

They somehow reached there in the first of September and allocated themselves to the foot area and Shiroyama Mountain. Of course, they were too few to prevent the government troops of as many as 50 thousands from attacking. If it had been in the Sengoku Period, Saigo would have set his stronghold on the mountain, but it was impossible because it could be targeted by cannons. Therefore, he had to stay in the caves in a valley between the mountain and the foot, which would be called the Saigo Caves later on. The government troops completely besieged the Satsuma rebels so that no one could escape. Their full scale attack was done on 24th of September. Saigo was assaulted from his cave, but was shot, and finally killed himself by performing the Harakiri.

The Saigo Caves
The government army fortification around Shiroyama Mountain (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Kagoshima Castle Part2”