九州・沖縄地方～Kyushu Okinawa Region – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

186.Kaneda Castle Patr3

Features

Three Gate Ruins

There are branch paths from the first turning point of the main hiking course to other attractions of the castle ruins. The paths are not the former military road and are a little rougher than it. These are not as popular as the military road. However, it is worth to visit. If you walk down the path for a while, you will be at the junction of another path to the first and second gate ruins, and the other path to the third gate ruins.

The map around the castle

The junction is near a hill called Bingushi Mountain where the ruins of other buildings were discovered. These buildings are thought to have been used as barracks for the Sakimori soldiers.

*The diorama of Kaneda Castle Ruins, exhibited by the sightseeing information center Fureaidokoro Tsushima*, adding the branch paths (the red lines), and the places of the second gate (marked by the blue circle) and the third gate (marked by the yellow circle)

The path to the ruins of the first and the second gates

Around the Bingushi Mountain, you can see a rest station on the left

Around the Bingushi Mountain on the diorama

The three gates were built using stones at the eastern side as castle and water gates near the seaside. The stones used in the castle are mainly natural while part of the stones of the first gate are rectangular- processed. However, it is said that they were piled by the Tsushima Domain during the Edo Period to guard the coast. They’ve been restored and repaired so that visitors can see them as if they used to look.

The second gate ruins seen from the bottom

The types of the stones were different in the upper and lower parts of the first gate

Going to the third gate ruins after once returning the junction

Wonderful Stone Walls along Sea

After you visit the third gate ruins, you can return by the same route or by another path though the southeast stone fortress. If you take the latter, you will see the great long stone walls of the eastern side on the right and beautiful Aso Bay on the left. Please watch your step as the path is partially unstable.

Going towards the southeast stone fortress

There are great stone walls along the sea

The southeast stone fortress is really great, too! The corner of the fortress was protruded outward to build a salient with enhanced defense in preparation for an enemy’s attack. It looks like a Gusuku (Okinawan castle) or a small Great Wall of China. If you walk up along the fortress, you will return to the route you passed.

It’s a good contract of the fortress and the sea

Around the southeast fortress on the diorama

Later History

People alway knew about Kaneda Castle because it had been recorded in the Nihon-shoki chronicles, however, they didn’t know about where it was as it had been abandoned too early to remember. For example, trade with Korea was done at a shrine near the first gate during the Middle Ages and the Tsushima Domain used the gate during the Edo Period, but they didn’t notice it was a ancient mountain castle. There is no telling how the Imperial Japanese Army treated it. Historians discovered the ruins on the mountain in the Taisho Era (1910-1925) and they finally confirmed it as Kaneda Castle after World War II. As a result, the ruins were designated as a National Special Historic Site in 1982.

The ruins of Kaneishi Castle, the home of the Tsushima Domain

My Impression

I was very surprised to see that the Joyama Mountain has become dual historical sites of the ancient times and modern times. Both sites show us there were strained relations with foreign countries at those times. Other than that, Tsushima also had dramatic events such as during the Mongolian Invasions and the invasion of Korea by Hideyoshi Toyotomi. On the other hand, there were also peaceful relationships such as with the Korean Envoys. We can now see many tourists visiting Tsushima from Korea recently, too. There is no need to say which is better.

The figures of the Korean Envoys, exhibited by Kokura Castle Tower

How to get There

I recommend using a car to get there. It takes about 20 minutes from Tsushima Airport or about 30 minutes from Izuhara Port. There is a small parking lot at the starting point of the hiking course.

The small parking lot at the starting point of the hiking course

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Kaneda Castle Part1”
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186.金田城　その３

メインとなるハイキングコースの最初の折り返し点からは、小径が出ていて、城跡の他の見どころに通じています。これらの道筋は元の軍用道路ではなく、且つそれと比べれば整備はされていません。しかし訪れる価値はあります。

特徴、見どころ

３つの城戸跡

メインとなるハイキングコースの最初の折り返し点からは、小径が出ていて、城跡の他の見どころに通じています。これらの道筋は元の軍用道路ではなく、且つそれと比べれば整備はされていません。また、あまり人が歩いていないので人気もないようです。しかし訪れる価値はあります。この小径をしばらく下っていくと、分岐点に着きます。

城周辺の地図

そこからは、一ノ城戸跡及び二ノ城戸跡に行く道と、三ノ城戸に行く道とに分かれています。この分岐点の近くには、ビングシ山と呼ばれる丘があって、そこでも建物跡が発見されています。これらの建物は、防人の兵舎として使われたのではないかとされています。

金田城跡のジオラマ（対馬観光情報館にて展示）に折り返し点からの小径（赤線）、二ノ城戸（青丸内）と三ノ城戸（黄色丸内）の位置を追記

３つの城戸（きど）は、城の東側の海岸近くに、城門及び水門として石を積んで築かれました。この城で主に使われている石材は自然石ですが、一ノ城戸で使われている一部の石は長方形に加工されています。しかし、これら長方形の石は、江戸時代になって海岸防備のために対馬藩によって積まれたものではないかと言われています。これらの門跡はよく復元、または修築されていて、ビジターがかつてあった姿を見てわかるようになっています。

海岸沿いの素晴らしい石垣

三ノ城戸跡を見た後は、来た道を戻ることもできますし、東南角石塁を経由する別の道を通ることもできます。後者を選択した場合は、右手には城の東側にそびえる素晴らしい長大な石垣を、左手には美しい浅茅湾を見ながら進みます。但し、この道は足元が不安定な箇所があるので気を付けて下さい。

その後に現れる東南角石塁もまた素晴らしいです。この石塁の角部分には、敵の来襲に備えて特別な防御の仕掛けがあり、いくつかの突起が設けられています。まるで、沖縄のグスクか、万里の長城の小型版のようです。この石塁に沿って登っていくと、元歩いたルートに戻ります。

その後

人々は金田城があったということは常にわかっていました。日本書紀にその存在が記録されていたからです。ところが、それがどこにあったかはわからなくなっていました。記憶に残るにはあまりに早く廃城となってしまったからです。例えば、中世には一ノ城戸の近くの神社で朝鮮との交易がおこなわれました。また、対馬藩が江戸時代に一ノ城戸を再利用しましたが、いずれもそれが古代山城だとは知らなかったのです。旧日本陸軍が城をどのように扱ったのかは言うまでもないでしょう。歴史家が山上にあるものを古代山城の遺跡として「発見」したのは大正時代のことです。それが金田城ものものだと確定したのは戦後のことでした。その結果、1982年には城跡は国の特別史跡に指定されました。

私の感想

現地に行ってみて、城山が古代と近代両方の史跡になっているのに驚きました。これらの史跡が築かれたときは、対外関係がとても緊張していたということがわかります。それ以外にも、対馬にはモンゴル襲来のときや豊臣秀吉の朝鮮侵攻といった激動の歴史がありました。その一方で、朝鮮通信使との交流によって平和的関係を築いたという時代もありました。最近では、多くの韓国からの観光客が対馬を訪れています。どちらが望ましいかは言うまでもないでしょう。

ここに行くには

ここに行くには車を使われることをお勧めします。対馬空港から約２０分、厳原港からは約３０分のところです。ハイキングコースの出発地点の手前に小さな駐車スペースがあります。

リンク、参考情報

・古代山城・金田城をあるく、対馬観光物産協会
・「よみがえる古代山城／向井一雄著」吉川弘文館

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「金田城その１」に戻ります。
「金田城その２」に戻ります。

186.Kaneda Castle Patr2

Today, the ruins of Kaneda Castle have become part of the popular hiking course on the Joyama Mountain. The course has been well maintained because it is based on the military road that the Imperial Japanese Amy developed over 100 years ago. The road was built for the constructions of Joyama Batteries on the top area to prepare for the Russo-Japanese War.

Features

Hiking Course as Fomer Military Road

Today, the ruins of Kaneda Castle have become part of the popular hiking course on the Joyama Mountain. Visitors first drive to the starting point of the course via the Prefectural Road 24, which branches off into a forest road. The hiking course has been well maintained because it is based on the military road that the Imperial Japanese Amy developed over 100 years ago. The road was built for the constructions of Joyama Batteries on the top area to prepare for the Russo-Japanese War.

The map around the castle

It was constructed largely on the slopes to make it gentle so that carriages could carry materials. That’s why the road crossed the circular stone walls of Kaneda Castle several times. The constructions resulted in the stone walls partially being destroyed. The reasons for it may have been that the walls were unknown for the castle and the constructions were the priority at that time.

*The diorama of Kaneda Castle Ruins, the white line shows the hiking course and the gray line shows the stone walls, exhibited by the sightseeing information center Fureaidokoro Tsushima*

Road crosses over Stone Walls several times

There are a few switchbacks in this hiking course that interest with the stone walls. If you walk up the road for a while, you will see a great view of Aso Bay before meeting the first crossover point with the stone walls.

This point is the southern side of the castle, so you can see the stone walls going down on the east to the southeast stone fortress, which is amazing scenery as well.

The stone walls go down to the southeast stone fortress

The first intersection of the road and the stone walls on the diorama, the south gate is on the left and the building is on the right of the point

There are also the ruins of the south gate on the west of the point, which were recently discovered in 2003. They have stone paving and foundations which were probably for gate buildings. The ruins of a building with dug-standing pillars were also found near the gate, which might have been used as a guardhouse.

You can see the building ruins on the left of the stone walls

You will meet the second intersection with the wall after the first switchback. The stone walls climb the ridge at that point. The road also goes with the walls in parallel for a short time. It is surprising to see how well the walls were built, so long, on such a steep mountain over 1350 years ago!

The hiking course on the left and the stone walls on the right

Looking up at the stone walls from the hiking course

At the third crossover point, you will see not only stone walls but also something like a gate structure. It might be the ruins of a drainage system.

The remaining stone walls at the third intersection

The fourth crossover point mostly consists of the ruins of a military facility, so you can only see few remaining stone walls of the castle above. The top of the mountain will be soon.

The ruins of the military facility at the fourth intersection

You can see few remaining stone walls above

*The fourth intersection on the diorama*

Battery Ruins, Stone Walls and Panoramic Views on Top

You will first reach the ruins of the batteries below the top. About 100 years ago, there were four 28-inch howitzers at this site, with their gun barrels facing the bay to the west. There are only their huge platforms remaining now where you can even understand their scales.

The Aso Bay which the batteries once faced

The mountain top on the left and the batteries on the right, on the diorama

You can also climb the ridge to the top, which is the same as the western line of Kaneda Castle. Therefore, you will see some remaining stones of the castle walls on the way.

You can see some remaining stone walls on the way

At the summit, there’s very limited space, so it might be difficult to stay long, but this spot offers breath-taking, panoramic views of Aso Bay.

To be continued in “Kaneda Castle Part3”
Back to “Kaneda Castle Part1”