93.Hitoyoshi Castle Part1

The early stage of Hitoyoshi Castle was much larger than its later stage during the Edo Period which is what we call the castle ruins.

Location and History

Sagara Clan governs Hitoyoshi area long

Hitoyoshi Castle was located beside the Kumagawa River in the Hitoyoshi Basin in the southern part of Higo Province which is modern day Kumamoto Prefecture. The Sagara Clan, the builder of the castle was first sent to the Hitoyoshi area by the Kamakura Shogunate around 1200. They lived in their residence on a flat square space, surrounded by moats, in the area like other lords in other areas at that time used to do such as the Ashikaga Clan Hall. Some consider this is the origin of Hitoyoshi Castle, however, the residence was built in a different place and ways from the castle which would be built later on. The clan had continued to govern the area since their settlement and the government was allowed by the shogunate and the governor of the province, the Kikuchi Clan. The square residence was moved and rebuilt at least once, but it became a holy place where important ceremonies like recruitements for the clan were held.

The range of Higo Province and the location of the castle

The portrait of Nagayori Sagara, the founder of the clan, drawn in the Edo Period, owned by Sagara Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The location of the first residence of the Sagara Clan

Ashikaga Clan Hall

Nagatsugu Sagara builds Castle after his Overthrowing

However, it was not enough for them to maintain their territory and decide who would be their next successor. They were finally done by power and battles. In the middle of the 15th Century, Nagashige Nagatomi, a relative of the Sagara Clan, overthrew his superiors when the Bunan Internal Troubles happened and eventually became the lord of the clan, and he renamed it Nagatsugu Sagara. He first lived in Yamada Castle, a small mountain castle, located in the north of the previous lord’s residence. Then, he built and moved to Taka Castle which had several enclosures on the Shirasu plateau, near the residence, as he got more powerful. He probably made his retainers live in these enclosures to prepare for his taking over. It wss thought that he finally built Hitoyoshi Castle at the current place when he succeeded.

The transition of the home bases of Nagashige Nagatone

Hitoyoshi Castle was built along the southern side of the Kumagawa River in a similar way to that of Taka Castle on the Shirasu plateau, but was much larger than it. In fact, the early stage of Hitoyoshi Castle was also much larger than its later stage during the Edo Period which is what we call the castle ruins. The early one was actually a group of local castles, such as Uehara-jo, Nakahara-jo, Shimohara-jo, Nishino-maru, Sotomawari, and Uchi-jo. Each local castle was on one hill of the plateau which was separated from the others by dry moats. The lord of the clan lived in Uehara-jo which was the highest and largest castle among the group. An interesting thing about Uehara-jo was that it included the square space surrounded by its own moats which had been considered as the holy space for the clan. The important ceremonies seemed to continue to be held in the same space, which meant even the powerful new lord still wanted to follow the clan’s tradition and authority.

A distant view of Hitoyoshi Castle Ruins beside Kumagawa River

The relief map of the early Hitoyoshi Castle

Sagara Clan’s Success and Failure

The increasing force of the Sagara Clan flew out from the Hitoyoshi area to other areas in Higo Province. In particular, they wanted to get the Yatsushiro area beside the Yatsushiro Sea, which prospered from trading internationally. Nagatsugu’s son, Tametsugu started to invade the Yatsushiro area. Yoshishige, four generations after Tametsugu completed it and moved his home base from Hitoyoshi Castle to Furufumoto Castle which was called Yatsushiro Castle in 1534. The clan became one of the greatest warlords in the Kyushu Region and traded with foreign countries through the Ryukyu Kingdom, directly with the Ming Dynasty of China and even by smuggling. As a result, Hitoyoshi Castle was renovated as a branch castle of the clan. The Uchijo portion, which was used for the lord’s family residence, became the new lord’s residence which was called Miuchi.

The portrait of Yoshishige Sagara, the founder of the clan, owned by Sagara Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Furufumoto Castle, quoted from the website of Yatsushiro City

However, the Shimazu Clan, which aimed to invade all of the Kyushu Region in the late 16th Century, forced the Sagara Clan to surrender and hand Yatsushiro Castle over to the Shimazu Clan. The Sagara Clan had to return to Hitoyoshi Castle but was able to maintain it and their territory while the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi and the Tokugawa Shogunate was happening. Hitoyoshi Castle was reduced to the Miuchi area and the other parts were abandoned. Instead, the remaining area was modernized such as by building stone walls.

Hitoyoshi Castle was drawn in the Edo Period in “The illustration of Kuma Castle in Higo Province”, exhibited by the National Diet Library Digital Collections
The current Hitoyoshi Castle Ruins

The Sagara Clan governed the castle and the area around all through the Edo Period as the Hitoyoshi Domain. There were some problems in the domain during the long period. For example, an internal comflict, called Oshita Rebellion, happened in 1640. A senior vassal, Seibe Sagara, who got the power to be equal to the lord among the domain, was banished by the lord. His relatives were besieged in their residences, called Oshita-yashiki, but were defeated and the residences were also burned down. There was a great fire called Torasuke Fire in 1862, which caused many of the castle to burn down. After that, some of the stone walls were restored using a new method called Hanedashi which emulated the European castles.

The Hanedashi stone walls of Hitoyoshi Castle

To be continued in “Hitoyoshi Castle Part2”

93.人吉城 その1

下剋上により当主となった相良長続が築いた初期の人吉城は、私たちが現在城跡と認識している江戸時代の最終形の人吉城よりもずっと大きかったのです。

立地と歴史

相良氏が人吉地域を長く支配

人吉城は、現在の熊本県にあたる肥後国の南部に位置する人吉盆地を流れる球磨川沿いにありました。この城を築いた相良(さがら)氏は最初は、1200年前後に鎌倉幕府により人吉地域に派遣されてきました。彼らは、当初堀に囲まれた四角い敷地に居館を構えていました。当時は、足利氏館に見られるように、他の地域の領主たちもそのようなところに住んでいたのです。この館が人吉城の起源だという人もいますが、後に築かれた城とは違う場所に違う形態で建てられたのです。相良氏は、定住してからその地域を治め、その地位は幕府や肥後国の守護である菊池氏によっても公認されていました。その方形の居館は、その後少なくとも1回は移設、再建されましたが、その場所自体が相良氏にとっての聖地と見なされ、任官式のような重要な儀式がそこで取り行われました。

肥後国の範囲と城の位置

相良氏の初代、相良長頼肖像画、江戸時代、相良神社蔵   (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

相良氏の当初の居館位置

足利氏館跡

相良長続が下剋上により当主となり人吉城を築城

しかし、そのこと(権威)だけでは領地を維持したり、後継者を決めるということは実際にはできませんでした。結局は勢力が大きいとか、戦に打ち勝つといったことが決定的な要因でした。15世紀中頃、相良氏の親族にあたる永留長重(ながとめながしげ)が、文安の内訌(ぶんあんのないこう)と呼ばれる氏族内の争いに乗じて権力を獲得し、ついには相良氏の当主となり、名前を相良長続(さがらながつぐ)と改めました。彼はもともと、領主の館の北方にあった山田城という小さな山城を拠点としていました。そして力をつけるに従い、当主の館近くのシラス台地上に、いくつもの曲輪を持つ高城(たかじょう)を築き、移り住みました。恐らくは、その城に家臣たちを住まわせ、下剋上の準備をしたのでしょう。それを成し遂げると、最終的に現在の場所に人吉城を築いたと考えられています。

永留長重の本拠地の変遷

人吉城は、球磨川の南岸沿いに、シラス台地上の高城と同じような形式で築かれましたが、高城よりはずっと大規模でした。実は初期の人吉城は、私たちが現在城跡と認識している江戸時代の最終形の人吉城よりもまた、ずっと大きかったのです。初期の人吉城は、実際には配下の城の集合体で、それらは上原城、中原城、下原城、西の丸、中尾、内城などと呼ばれていました。それぞれが台地上の丘に築かれ、空堀によって他と区切られていました。相良氏の当主は、城群の中で最大で且つもっとも高所に位置する中原城を居城としていました。上原城に関して興味深いことは、その中に独自の堀で囲まれた四角いスペースが含まれていたことです。そこが相良氏にとっての聖地であり、重要な儀式が昔と同じような場所で行われていたようなのです。実力によって権力を握った新しい当主にとっても、氏族の伝統や権威を継承することも必要であったと思われます。

球磨川南岸の城跡遠景

初期の人吉城周辺の起伏地図

相良氏の拡大と挫折

相良氏の拡大する勢力は、人吉地域を飛び出し、肥後国の他の地域に及びました。特に、彼らは八代海に面する八代地域を手に入れようとしました。その地域は国際貿易により繁栄していたのです。長続の子、為続(ためつぐ)が八代地域への侵攻を開始しました。為続から4代目の義滋(よししげ)が八代獲得を達成し、1534年に本拠地を人吉城から、当時は八代城と呼ばれた古麓城(ふるふもとじょう)に移しました。相良氏は九州地方における有力な戦国大名となり、琉球王国を通じた海外貿易や、明王朝との直接取り引き、果ては密貿易まで行いました。その結果、人吉城は相良氏の支城として改修されました。その過程で内城と呼ばれた相良氏の家族の住居地が、御内(みうち)と呼ばれる新しい城主の住居地となりました。

相良義滋肖像画、相良神社蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
古麓城跡、八代市ホームページより引用

ところが16世紀後半に島津氏が全九州地方の制覇を企て、相良氏に降伏と八代城を引き渡すよう強いたのです。相良氏は人吉城に戻らざるを得ず、それでも豊臣秀吉や徳川幕府による天下統一の過程においてはコアの領土を維持することができました。人吉城は御内の範囲に縮小され、それ以外の部分は放棄されました。その代わりに残った部分は石垣を築くなどして近代化されました。

江戸時代の人吉城を描いた「肥後国球麻城絵図」、出典:国立国会図書館デジタルコレクション
現在の人吉城跡

相良氏は江戸時代の間中、人吉藩として城とその周辺地域を支配しました。しかし、その長い期間には藩内でいくつもの問題が発生しました。例えば、お下の乱と呼ばれる内紛が1640年に起こりました。重臣の一人である相良清兵衛が藩内で藩主に匹敵するほどの勢力を持ち、ついには藩主により追放されたのです。彼の一族はお下屋敷と呼ばれた館に籠りましたが、鎮圧され館も焼かれました。また、1862年には寅助火事と呼ばれる大火が起こり、城の多くが焼亡しました。その後、石垣の一部がヨーロッパの城郭を模した跳ね出しと呼ばれる新技法によって再建されました。

人吉城の跳ね出し石垣

「人吉城その2」に続きます。

161.Kishiwada Castle Part3

The only thing I would ask the city to improve on the castle would be to open the views from the Main and Second Enclosures.

Features

Outside of Main Enclosure

The Main Enclosure is only connected to the Second Enclosure by the earthen bridge which is the same as the past. It looks like a castle island floating on the moat which must have had a defensive design.

The aerial photo around the castle

The earthen bridge to the Main Enclosure
The Main Enclosure looks like an island

However, if you go around the back side, you will find its back entrance ruins with stone steps, where a bridge to the outside was built. The bridge can not be seen in the drawing of the castle submitted to the shogunate. The reason for it could be that it was built after the drawing had been submitted or it was removed from the drawing intentionally.

The back entrance ruins of the Main Enclosure
The bridge in the back was not seen in the drawing (the upper right part)

The high stone walls surrounding it also look technical as they are curved elaborately to counterattack the enemies’ sides. They also use the lips as their base which is a rare case in Japanese castles. Some historians think that the reason may be to support the sandstones used for the walls which are weaker than the other types of stones. That’s why the stone walls were partially repaired in the present time, using granite to make them durable.

The stone walls are curved elaborately
These stone walls were built on the lips
The white stones seem to have been used for the repair

Inside of Main Enclosure

The inside of the Main Enclosure has the reconstructed Main Tower, a gate, a corner turret and white walls. They have different designs from the original ones compared with those in the drawing. For example, the current Main Tower has three levels with many decorations while the original one had five levels with a simple roofing. In case like the current Main Tower of Kishiwada Castle, which was rebuilt but has a different design, should be called “reconstructed”. The enclosure also has a modern Japanese dry garden, called Hachijin-no-Niwa or the Garden of Eight Battle Formation, which was built in the same period as the current Main Tower and was designated as a National Scenic Beauty in 2014. The builders might also have created the Main Tower freely without its original design as a modern building.

The reconstructed buildings in the Main Enclosure
The reconstructed Main Tower
The Garden of Eight Battle Formation

The tower is used as a historical museum inside and an observation platform on the top floor. The floor has a good viewing spot where you can enjoy the scenery of the area around including Osaka Bay. However, you can’t see anything on the outside from the enclosure except for the platform due to the high white walls on the top of the stone walls.

A view of the city area towards Osaka Bay from the platform
This is also not a good view point because of the walls

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Kishiwada Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished. The castle land excluding the Main and Second Enclosures was turned into the city area. There was probably no other way to use it, other than modernizing the city of Kishiwada. After a long time, people in Kishiwada wanted to rebuild the Main Tower of the castle though they needed donations for it. As a result, it was finally completed in 1954 as the three-level Main Tower, but actually a modern concrete building has become a symbol of the city. Some people had argued that it should have been a five-level wooden one which was the same as the original tower, but there was a budget problem and the former lord, the Okabe Clan supported the original reconstruction plan. Kishiwada City is currently struggling to consider the earthquake-resistance measures of the reconstructed Main Tower due to its old age and the stricter regulations than before. It is also continuing to repair the remaining stone walls by replacing collapsed sandstones with new granite stones.

The current Kishiwada Castle

My Impression

I think the more you visit the current Kishiwada Castle, the more you will be interested in its history. The castle started out as a small one facing the sea, and it developed into the only one in Izumi Province, and finally became the symbol of the city. However, the only thing I would ask the city to improve on the castle would be to open the views from the Main and Second Enclosures. Currently, visitors can’t see the views below from them because of the walls or hedges probably for the safety reasons. I think the city will be able to replace them with other fences which can provide the views so that visitors can fully understand how the castle was developed more.

How about using this fence, partially used in the Second Enclosure, more?
This is a good view point because of the fence

That’s all. Thank you.
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