39.Gifu Castle Part1

The castle for Nobunaga Oda to unify the nation by force

Location and History

Castle protected by Mt. Kinkazan and Nagara-gawa River

If you go from Nagoya City to Gifu City, the prefectural capital of Gifu Pref. through the Nobi Plain, the first high mountain you will see is Mt. Kinkazan with the Main Tower on the top. This is Gifu Castle. It may have been very common for warriors to build their castle on such an outstanding spot. The Nagara-gawa River also flows on the north and west of the castle as a part of the natural terrain and served as a defense mechanism for the castle.

The location of the castle

Mt. Kinkazan (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Nobunaga Oda declares Unify Nation by Force

It is said that the Nikaido Clan first built the castle in the 13th Century, but the details are uncertain. In the mid 16th Century, the Saito Clan improved the castle which until then, was called Inabayama Castle. In 1567, Nobunaga Oda took over the castle from the Saito Clan, and moved his home base from Komakiyama Castle to this castle. At the same time, he renamed the castle Gifu Castle, which comes from the hometown’s name of an ancient Chinese Dynasty, Shou. He also started using his seal of “Tenka-Fubu” or Unify the Nation by Force for his documents. This was seen as Nobunaga’s declaration of his intention for the unification of Japan.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The seal of Unify the Nation by Force (licensed by 百楽兎 via Wikimedia Commons)

However, even according to the excavations, it is still not entirely sure what the top of the mountain looked like and if there was a Main Tower or not. Some gates and stone walls were built, but the natural terrain on the mountain was not modified so much. Some historians speculate this is because the mountain was originally a sanctuary spot where its rocky terrain itself could be the object of worship. There was actually an Inaba Shrine on the mountain before the Saito Clan improved the castle. Nobunaga lived on the top of the mountain with his family and relatives, and usually didn’t allow other people to climb on the mountain.

The miniature model of the top of Mt. Kinkazan (Gifu Castle Museum)

Featured Nobunaga’s Palace Residence

On the other hand, at the western foot of the mountain called Keyakitdani, Nobunaga’s residence, which was like a luxurious palace, was built. The residence had four stories covering the terraced terrain with golden foiled roof tiles. The foundation of the residence was built with stone walls, in particular, and its entrance was decorated by huge stone walls. The back of the residence had deluxe artificial gardens also with huge stones. The way of building the castle is said to have led to the next way for building the Azuchi Castle later.

The imaginary drawing of Nobunaga’s residence (Gifu Castle Museum)

After Nobunaga died, his relatives continued to govern the castle. In 1600, when Hidenobu Oda, Nobunaga’s grandchild was the lord of the castle, the battle of Sekigahara happened. Hidenobu supported the Western Army led by Mitsunari Ishida, while the Eastern Army under the Tokugawa Shogunate attacked Gifu Castle. Hidenobu was defeated and it is said that the buildings Nobunaga built were burned down during the battle.

The portrait of Hidenobu Oda, owned by Raikoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Gifu Castle Part2”

39.岐阜城 その1

織田信長の天下布武の城

立地と歴史

金華山と長良川に守られた城

名古屋市から岐阜県の県都である岐阜市に向かって濃尾平野を進んでいくと、最初の高い山である金華山とその頂上に天守が見えてきます。これが岐阜城です。このような目立った場所に城を築くことは武士にとって当然だったかもしれません。また、長良川が城の北と西側を流れていて、自然の地形を成すとともに、城の防衛のためにも役立っていました。

城の位置

金華山 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

織田信長が天下布武を宣言

13世紀に二階堂氏が最初にこの城を築いたと言われていますが、詳細は不明です。16世紀中頃になって斎藤氏が城を改築し、その頃までに稲葉山城と呼ばれるようになりました。1567年、織田信長が斎藤氏からこの城を奪い、本拠地を小牧山城からこの城に移しました。同時に彼は城の名前を岐阜城と変えました。この名前は、中国古代王朝の周の出身地にちなんでいます。彼はまた、文書に「天下布武」の印章を使い始めました。これは、信長が日本を統一する意思を宣言したものとみなされています。

織田信長肖像画、狩野宗秀作、長興寺蔵、16世紀後半 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
天下布武の印 (licensed by 百楽兎 via Wikimedia Commons)

ところが、発掘を行っても、山頂がどのようであったのか、また天守があったのかどうか全くはっきりしないのです。いくらか門や石垣が築かれたのは確かですが、山の自然の地形はそれ程改変されませんでした。歴史家は、その理由としてこの山はもともと、それ自身の岩場が聖地として崇拝の対象であったからと推測しています。実際、斎藤氏が城を改変する前は、伊奈波神社が山の上にあったのです。信長は、山の頂上に家族、近親者とともに住み、通常は他人には山に登らせなかったといいます。

金華山山頂のミニチュアモデル(岐阜城天守閣)

注目される信長の居館

一方で、欅谷と呼ばれた山の西麓には、豪華な宮殿のような信長の居館が築かれました。この公居館は、階段状の地形を覆った4階建てで、金箔の瓦が載っていました。その基礎は石垣で作られ、特にその入り口は巨石により飾られていました。このような城の作り方はその後、次に来る安土城につながったと言われています。

信長の公居館の想像図(岐阜城天守閣)

信長の死後、彼の一族がこの城を治め続けました。1600年、信長の孫である織田秀信が城主だったとき、関ヶ原の戦いが起こりました。秀信は、石田三成率いる西軍に味方しましたが、徳川幕府方の東軍が岐阜城を攻撃しました。秀信は敗れ、信長が築いた建物はこのとき焼けてしまったと言われます。

織田秀信肖像画、来迎寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「岐阜城その2」に続きます。

40.Yamanaka Castle Part3

One of the earliest historical parks in Japan

Later History

Yamanaka Castle had been abandoned for a long time since the battle in 1590. In 1930, a descendant of Naosue Hitotsuyanagi made a plan for the historic site. As a result, the ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1934. In addition, Mishima City excavated the ruins and developed them as a historical park between 1972 and 1993. That’s why we can now enjoy visiting the park, learning history, and relaxing.

The dry moat called “Shoji-bori” and Mt. Fuji

My Impression

The development for the Yamanaka-jo Castle Park was completed in 1993, nearly 30 years ago. I think that this is one of the very early cases for historical parks in Japan. This can also be a good model for the historical parks for other castles which are now being developed. Basically, the western slope of the Hakone Barrier has been a perfect spot for viewing Mt. Fuji. If the weather is fine, you can get both views of the mountain and the castle ruins there.

A view of Mt. Fuji from the ruins

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car:
From the east, it takes about 30 minutes from Hakoneguchi IC on Seisho Bypass.
From the west, it takes about 40 minutes from Numazu IC on Tomei Expressway.
The park offers a parking lot at the entrance.
By bus, get on the Tokai Bus bound for Moto-Hakone-Ko from the south entrance of Mishima Station, and get off at the Yamanaka-Jo-Ato bus stop.
To get to the Mishima Station from Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express.

Links and References

Mishima City Tourist Association

That’s all.
Back to “Yamanaka Castle Part1”
Back to “Yamanaka Castle Part2”