2023年12月 – ページ 4 – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

108.Tsurugaoka Castle Part1

Tadakatsu Sakai, the founder of the Shonai Domain, was wondering which castle would be better for his home base, Tsurugaoka or Kamegaoka. His decision was to take Tsurugaoka because he thought Tsurugaoka would be the political center while Kamegaoka would be commercial with Sakata port and town.

Location and History

Shonai Domain has Political Tsurugaoka and Commercial Sakata

The Shonai area of Yamagata Prefecture is a granary on the Shonai Plain, which is known for Shonai Rice. There are two large cities, Tsuruoka and Sakata, in the area. When the area was governed by the Shonai Domain during the Edo Period, the cities shared their respective roles. Tsuruoka was political and Sakata was commercial. Turuagaoka Castle was located in the current Tsuruoka City, which was the home base of the domain, ruled by the Sakai Clan.

The ranges of Tsuruoka and Sakata Cities and the location of the castle

The castle was originally called Daihoji Castle which was first built by a local lord, the Muto Clan, sometime in the early Middle Ages. It was one of their several castles, and its size was still small. As time passed by, the area was targeted by greater warlords from outside, such as the Uesugi and Mogami Clans in the late 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. These clans battled over this area while the power of the Muto Clan declined. Daihoji Castle and Tozenji Castle, which was located in the current Sakata City, were improved by them. In the early 17th Century when the Tokugawa Shogunate was established by Ieyasu Tokugawa, the Shonai area was governed by Yoshimitsu Mogami, based in Yamagata Castle. He renamed Daihoji Castle to Tsurugaoka (meaning the Hill of Cranes) and Tozenji Castle to Kamegaoka (meaning the Hill of Turtles). Cranes and turtles (and Pine trees) have been lucky words for Japanese people because they believed these animals had longer lives than humans. He did it after he had heard that a big turtle was found at the seaside near Tozenji Castle. However, the Mogami Clan was banished by the shogunate in 1622 due to their internal troubles after Yoshimitu died.

*Yoshiaki Mogami from Battle of Hasedo Standing Screen (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons*)

The territory of the Mogami Clan was apportioned to several other lords, one of which, the Shonai area was given to Tadakatsu Sakai as the founder of the Shonai Domain. He was a grandchild of Tadatsugu Sakai, known as One of the Four Generals Serving Ieyasu Tokugawa. That’s why the Sakai Clan had been a senior vassal of the shogun and had loyalty to the shogunate. Tadakatsu was wondering which castle would be better for his home base, Tsurugaoka or Kamegaoka. In terms of defense, Kamegaoka was better. However, his decision was to take Tsurugaoka because he thought Tsurugaoka would be the political center while Kamegaoka would be commercial with Sakata port and town.

The portrait of Tadakatsu Sakai, owned by Chido Museum (*licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)*

Originally, Tsurugaoka Castle was said to have had only the Main and Second Enclosures made of soil, with simple residences, surrounded by double water moats, on a plain land. It would be too small for the Sakai Clan’s home base and not defensive when a battle happened there. So, Tadakatsu started to improve the castle by building the large Third Enclosure and the castle town outside. The Main Hall for the lord was also built in the Main Enclosure. The Main and Second Enclosures had five entrances, which were protected by the Masugata system or the Umadashi system which the Tokugawa relatives had used to build. The Masugata refers to a square defensive space inside the gate and the Umadashi is a small round enclosure which sticks out from the gate. On the other hand, the castle had few stone walls, still mostly made of soil, and had no Main Tower unlike other castles of the Tokugawa relatives. A two-level turret was built on a corner of the Main Enclosure as a substitute of the tower. Overall, the castle can be seen as a mixing of the legacy of the area and the Tokugawa method.

The reconstruction of Tsurugaoka Castle from the signboard at the site, adding colored circles, the Umadashi systems in the red circles and the Masugata systems in the blue circles

The miniature model of the castle, seen from the same direction as above (the east), exhibited by Chido Museum

The main enclosure in the miniature model, seen from the west, the substitute for the Main Tower is in the red circle

Deadlock and Reform of Government

The early government of the Shonai Domain was actually unstable. Tadakatsu’s tax policy was harsh because he wanted to have more income to contribute to the shogunate. However, the Tohoku Region including the Shonai area often suffered damage from cold weather, droughts, and floods. Despite these variable situations, the domain asked the farmers to pay the same amount of taxes every year. That resulted in many farmers fleeing the area, having huge debt, and even selling their families, leaving the area devastated.

A wealthy merchant of Sakata town, Mitsuoka Honma saved the domain during the late 18th Century. Ocean voyages were prohibited by the shogunate due to its policy of closing the country, but coastal sailing in small crafts became a major mean of transportation. Sakata port was one of the transport hubs, which made the town and merchants so rich. That’s why the domain asked Mitsuoka for help to solve its financial problems. He provided not only enormous tax money but also was in charge of financial matters of the domain. The domain changed the ways to treat the farmers flexibly as well. It also opened the domain school called Chidokan in 1805 to educate the domain retainers. The situation was getting better and the people in the area became united.

The miniature model of a large Japanese junk called Benzai-sen, which was used for the coastal sailing, exhibited by Chido Museum

The tablet of Chidokan domain school, which was used during the Edo Period

Reform is proven during End of Edo Period

The result of the reform was proven in 1840 when the shogunate ordered the Shonai Domain to move to another and the Matsudaira Clan would be expected to come from the Kawagoe Domain. The movement of the people including farmers in the Shonai Domain against the shogunate’s decision occurred. They urged the shogunate that they wanted to be with the lords of the Sakai Clan. In fact, the movement might have been triggered by suggestions from some warriors, who didn’t want to move, that the next lord would be too strict. As a result, the order was canceled, which was a very rare case during the Edo Period.

The picture of people celebrating the cancelation of the movement in front of the castle, exhibited by the domain school

When the shogunate collapsed and the new government was established in 1868 during the Meiji Restoration, several domains in the Tohoku Region, including the Shonai Domain, made an alliance to be against the government. The Shonai’s troops led by a senior vassal, Genba Sakai were organized by warriors, farmers and even merchants, and were very strong. This was because the Honma Clan imported advanced foreign weapons and gave them to the troops. They repelled the Government Army and attacked other domains supporting the government instead. However, all of their allies were defeated or surrendered to the government before the last lord, Tadazumi Sakai also decided to surrender though his troops and Tsurugaoka Castle were intact.

Genba Sakai, in the early Meiji Era *(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)*

To be continued in “Tsurugaoka Castle Part2”

108.鶴ヶ岡城　その１

庄内藩藩祖の酒井忠勝は、鶴ヶ岡城と亀ヶ岡城のどちらが本拠地として相応しいか思案しました。彼の決断は鶴ヶ岡城でした。鶴ヶ岡は政治の中心地であり、亀ヶ岡は酒田港と町を擁する商業地であると考えたのです。

立地と歴史

政治の鶴ヶ岡、商業の酒田を擁した庄内藩

山形県の庄内地域は、庄内平野の穀倉地帯にあり、そこで産するコメは庄内米として知られています。そこには鶴岡市と酒田市という２つの中核都市があります。江戸時代にこの地域が庄内藩によって治められていた時には、その役目を分かち合っていました。鶴岡は政治都市であり、酒田市は商業都市であったのです。鶴ヶ岡城は現在の鶴岡市にあって、藩の本拠地であり、藩主は酒井氏でした。

鶴岡市・酒田市の範囲と城の位置

この城はもともと大宝寺城と呼ばれていて、中世初期に地元領主の武藤氏によって最初に築かれたとされています。ただし、武藤氏が築いたいくつもの城の一つであり、まだ小規模な城でした。時が過ぎ戦国時代の１６世紀後半になってくると、庄内地域は、上杉氏や最上氏のような地域外の有力戦国大名によって狙われるようになります。これらの大名がこの地域を巡って争う一方、武藤氏の勢力は衰えました。大宝寺城と、現在の酒田市にあった東禅寺城は、戦国大名たちによって度々改修されます。１７世紀の初頭、徳川家康によって江戸幕府が設立されたとき、庄内地域は山形城を本拠とする最上義光の領地となっていました。彼は、大宝寺城を鶴ヶ岡城と、東禅寺城を亀ヶ岡城と改名しました。鶴と亀（と松）は日本人にとっておめでたい言葉であり、人間よりもずっと長生きすると信じられていました。義光は、東禅寺城近くの海岸で大亀が見つかったことを聞き、城の改名を行ったのです。しかし義光が亡くなった後、最上家ではお家騒動が起こり、1622年に幕府により改易となってしまいました。

長谷堂合戦図屏風に描かれた最上義光 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

最上氏の領地はいくつかの大名に宛がわれ、その一部であった庄内地域は酒井忠勝に与えられ、忠勝は庄内藩初代藩主となりました。彼は、徳川四天王の一人として知られる酒井忠次の孫でした。そのため酒井氏は代々将軍家の重臣となり、幕府に対する忠誠心も高かったのです。忠勝は、鶴ヶ岡城と亀ヶ岡城のどちらが本拠地として相応しいか思案しました。防御力の観点からは、亀ヶ岡城が優れていました。しかし、彼の決断は鶴ヶ岡城でした。鶴ヶ岡は政治の中心地であり、亀ヶ岡は酒田港と町を擁する商業地であると考えたのです。

酒井忠勝肖像画、致道博物館蔵 *(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)*

もともと鶴ヶ岡城には、本丸と二の丸しかなく、土造りで簡素な館があるだけでした。そして平地にあって二重の水堀によって囲まれていました。それでは酒井氏の本拠地としては手狭であり、戦いが起こったときの防御も不足していました。よって、忠勝は城の改修を始め、外側に大きな三の丸を築いたり、城下町を整備しました。本丸には藩主のための御殿も建設されました。本丸と二の丸には都合５つの出入り口があり、徳川氏やその家臣たちがよく築いていた桝形や馬出しによって防御されていました。桝形とは門の中に設けられた四角い防御のためのスペースのことで、馬出しとは門から突き出た丸い形の小曲輪のことです。一方、城にはほとんど石垣は用いられずほぼ土造りのままであり、天守も築かれなかったので、徳川関係の他の城とは違う面もありました。本丸の角に二階建ての櫓が建てられ、天守の代用とされました。総じていうと、この城は、この地域の遺産と徳川方式の折衷のようなものと言えるでしょう。

藩政の停滞と改革

庄内藩の初期の統治は、実は不安定でした。忠勝の年貢の取り立て方針は厳しいものでした。より多くの収益を得て、幕府に貢献しようと考えたからです。ところが、庄内地域を含む東北地方は度々冷害、干ばつ、洪水による不作に見舞われました。このような変動が起こる状況にも関わらず、藩は農民に対し、毎年同じ年貢量を納めるよう要求しました（いわゆる定免法）。その結果、多くの農民たちが逃亡したり、多額の借金を背負ったり、身売りする者も出る有り様で、地域は荒廃しました。そうした状況が１８世紀後半になって、酒田の豪商、本間光丘（ほんまみつおか）によって救われました。当時は幕府の鎖国方針により、遠洋航海が禁止されていました。よって、沿岸航海が交通の主要な手段となっていたのです。酒田港は、その航路の主要な寄港地となっていて、酒田の町と商人は豊かになっていました。そのため、藩は光丘に藩の財政問題の解決を依頼したのです。光丘は莫大な運上金を納めるだけでなく、藩の財政改革の責任者にもなりました。藩も農民に対する対応を柔軟に行うようになりました。藩はまた、藩士の教育のために1805年に致道館（ちどうかん）という藩校を設立しました。状況は徐々に改善し、藩内も結束していきました。

幕末に現れた改革の成果

改革の成果は、1840年に幕府が庄内藩に領地替えを命じ、川越藩から松平氏が転封することになった時に現れました。農民たちを含む庄内藩の人々は、幕府の決定に対する反対運動を起こしました。彼らは、酒井の殿様と一緒にいたいと幕府に訴えたのです。実際にはこの運動は、移動したくない一部の武士たちが、次に来る殿様は非常にきびしいぞとけしかけたことで始まったとも言われています。その結果、その決定は反故にされました（その代償として本間氏頼みで幕府に多額の献金を行ったという一面もあります）。江戸時代を通じても大変稀な事例です。

1868年に明治維新となり、幕府が崩壊し新政府が樹立されたとき、庄内藩を含ふ東北諸藩は、新政府に対抗して同盟を結びました（奥羽越列藩同盟）。庄内藩では、重臣の酒井玄蕃（さかいげんば）によって、武士・農民・商人までをも含む強力な軍隊が組織されました。また、本間家が最新の外国製武器を輸入し、提供していました。玄蕃の軍勢は、新政府軍を撃退し、新政府側についた他の藩（新庄藩、秋田藩）にまで攻め込むほどでした。ところが、同盟していた藩は全て新政府にやられるか降伏してしまい、庄内藩主の酒井忠篤（さかいただずみ）もまた降伏を決断せざると得ませんでした。藩の軍勢と鶴ヶ岡城は健在でした。

酒井玄蕃、明治初め頃 *(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)*

「鶴ヶ岡城その２」に続きます。

124.Shinagawa Batteries Part3

The ruins of Shinagawa Batteries are very useful for telling people about what happened in the past. Visual historical items are significantly better than only records or explanation boards.

Features

Looking around N0.3 Battery Ruins

The ruins of the No.3 Battery as the Daiba Park is connected to the seaside by a marine walkway. The walkway was added when the park was established, that means the battery had originally been isolated. As you get close to the battery, you will see its characteristic stone walls using the Hanedashi system. The system refers to all the stones on the top row are layered to prevent enemies from invading, which emulated European castles. This system is rarely seen in other Japanese castles only in Goryokaku, Tatsuoka Castle and Hitoyoshi Castle which were built or renovated at the end of the Edo Period. In fact, this is the only spot where you can see them close by because it is prohibited for visitors to approach the stone walls from the other sides.

The aerial photo of the No.3 Battery

The Hanedashi system of the No.3 Battery

You can’t approach other stone walls of the battery in other places

You can land at the battery by using steps like boarding a ship. You can next see a close view of the battery. It is a large square with one side being 160m long and its perimeter is higher than the center. There are few remaining original items, so some visitors might not notice that it is a ruin without the knowledge of its history. If you walk on the perimeter which is made with earthen walls from the entrance, the view is so nice. You can see Odaiba Seaside Park on the left, the Rainbow Bridge and the No.6 Battery on the right, and Tokyo Bay ahead.

You can land the battery by using these steps

Walking on the earthen walls of the perimeter

The No.6 Battery on the left and the Rainbow Bridge on the right

Ruins regarding Guns

There are two imitations of gun platforms on one side of the perimeter opposite the entrance. However, they are not actually real and should not be considered even as replicas, according to historians. In addition, there were thick and long earthen protective walls called “breastworks” in front of cannons, but they seem to have collapsed. There were also earthen side walls dividing the canons to protect gunners from blasts, but were removed after the battery being abolished. This side was definitely the front line against enemies.

The protective walls around the guns have been lost

The ruins of the gun powder magazines are facing downward inside the front side walls, which are surrounded by earthen banks. There was the building for the magazine inside the banks, but it was demolished. There is now a stone-made item like a cocking stove instead, but it is not original for the battery. In addition, the banks are partially supported by stone walls which were built to recover them from the damage of the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923.

These stone walls were built after the earthquake

The ruins of the ammunition chambers are at other sides. The chambers were solidly built with a stone hut and wooden racks deep in the earthen walls. This was because ammunition was the most dangerous item in the battery, which might have caused accidents or explosions. We can now see the stone hut ruins behind earthen mounds around which were added later than when the battery was active, maybe for preservation.

One of the ruins of the ammunition chambers

Ruins of Pier and Barrack

In the flat central part of the battery, there are only the stone foundations of the barrack. The barrack was a simple wooden building with no baths for the warriors to rest in. They would escape from the barrack if a battle happened before it would be burned.

The ruins of the pier are at the next corner to the current entrance. Visitors can not enter it, but only see it from the inside. The concreted part was worked in the later period, which might have been used when the park was developed.

There are also remaining earthen walls in front of the pier, which is called “Ichimonji-tsutsumi” (meaning the bank like the Chinese letter for one which is a horizontal line). This structure was made to ensure visitors could not see inside and the defenders could protect the battery from enemies’ attacks from the tier as the original entrance.

The remaining earthen walls called Ichimonji-tsutsumi

My Impression

I think the ruins of Shinagawa Batteries are very useful for telling people about what happened in the past. Visual historical items are significantly better than only records or explanation boards. The waterfront area of Tokyo has been very important for the economy of the whole country. All the batteries ruins could have been removed. The decision of Tokyo Metropolitan which owns the ruins was so great. Now, just one thing, I would like the government to replace the imitation of gun platforms at the site with realistic replicas to make visitors better understand what the battery would have looked like.

The two imitations of gun platforms on the No.3 Battery

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Shinagawa Batteries Part1”
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