124.Shinagawa Batteries Part3

The ruins of Shinagawa Batteries are very useful for telling people about what happened in the past. Visual historical items are significantly better than only records or explanation boards.

Features

Looking around N0.3 Battery Ruins

The ruins of the No.3 Battery as the Daiba Park is connected to the seaside by a marine walkway. The walkway was added when the park was established, that means the battery had originally been isolated. As you get close to the battery, you will see its characteristic stone walls using the Hanedashi system. The system refers to all the stones on the top row are layered to prevent enemies from invading, which emulated European castles. This system is rarely seen in other Japanese castles only in Goryokaku, Tatsuoka Castle and Hitoyoshi Castle which were built or renovated at the end of the Edo Period. In fact, this is the only spot where you can see them close by because it is prohibited for visitors to approach the stone walls from the other sides.

The aerial photo of the No.3 Battery

The marine walkway to the park
The Hanedashi system of the No.3 Battery
You can’t approach other stone walls of the battery in other places
The Hanedashi system of Goryokaku

You can land at the battery by using steps like boarding a ship. You can next see a close view of the battery. It is a large square with one side being 160m long and its perimeter is higher than the center. There are few remaining original items, so some visitors might not notice that it is a ruin without the knowledge of its history. If you walk on the perimeter which is made with earthen walls from the entrance, the view is so nice. You can see Odaiba Seaside Park on the left, the Rainbow Bridge and the No.6 Battery on the right, and Tokyo Bay ahead.

You can land the battery by using these steps
The close view of the battery
Walking on the earthen walls of the perimeter
The view of Tokyo Bay ahead
The No.6 Battery on the left and the Rainbow Bridge on the right

Ruins regarding Guns

There are two imitations of gun platforms on one side of the perimeter opposite the entrance. However, they are not actually real and should not be considered even as replicas, according to historians. In addition, there were thick and long earthen protective walls called “breastworks” in front of cannons, but they seem to have collapsed. There were also earthen side walls dividing the canons to protect gunners from blasts, but were removed after the battery being abolished. This side was definitely the front line against enemies.

The two imitations of gun platforms
The protective walls around the guns have been lost

The ruins of the gun powder magazines are facing downward inside the front side walls, which are surrounded by earthen banks. There was the building for the magazine inside the banks, but it was demolished. There is now a stone-made item like a cocking stove instead, but it is not original for the battery. In addition, the banks are partially supported by stone walls which were built to recover them from the damage of the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923.

The ruins of the gun powder magazines
The inside of the ruins
These stone walls were built after the earthquake

The ruins of the ammunition chambers are at other sides. The chambers were solidly built with a stone hut and wooden racks deep in the earthen walls. This was because ammunition was the most dangerous item in the battery, which might have caused accidents or explosions. We can now see the stone hut ruins behind earthen mounds around which were added later than when the battery was active, maybe for preservation.

One of the ruins of the ammunition chambers

Ruins of Pier and Barrack

In the flat central part of the battery, there are only the stone foundations of the barrack. The barrack was a simple wooden building with no baths for the warriors to rest in. They would escape from the barrack if a battle happened before it would be burned.

The central part of the battery
The ruins of the battery

The ruins of the pier are at the next corner to the current entrance. Visitors can not enter it, but only see it from the inside. The concreted part was worked in the later period, which might have been used when the park was developed.

The ruins of the pier
You can’t enter the pier

There are also remaining earthen walls in front of the pier, which is called “Ichimonji-tsutsumi” (meaning the bank like the Chinese letter for one which is a horizontal line). This structure was made to ensure visitors could not see inside and the defenders could protect the battery from enemies’ attacks from the tier as the original entrance.

The remaining earthen walls called Ichimonji-tsutsumi

My Impression

I think the ruins of Shinagawa Batteries are very useful for telling people about what happened in the past. Visual historical items are significantly better than only records or explanation boards. The waterfront area of Tokyo has been very important for the economy of the whole country. All the batteries ruins could have been removed. The decision of Tokyo Metropolitan which owns the ruins was so great. Now, just one thing, I would like the government to replace the imitation of gun platforms at the site with realistic replicas to make visitors better understand what the battery would have looked like.

The two imitations of gun platforms on the No.3 Battery

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Shinagawa Batteries Part1”
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124.品川台場 その3

品川台場跡は、人々に過去にどんなことが起こったのかを知らしめるとても有機義な史跡だと思います。目に見える史跡というのは、ただ記録が残っているとか説明板があるだけよりも、明らかに優れています。

特徴、見どころ

三番台場跡を見学

台場公園、すなわち三番台場跡は、海岸とは通路によってつながっています。この道は、公園ができたときに付け加えられたと思われます。台場自体はもともと海の孤島だったわけです。台場に近づくにつれ、跳ね出しとい独特の仕組みを持った石垣が見えてきます。跳ね出しとは、最上段の石が全て張り出していて、敵がよじ登ってくるのを防ぐ仕組みです。ヨーロッパの城郭を模倣したものです。跳ね出しが見られる日本の城は稀で、他には江戸時代末に築かれたか改修された、五稜郭龍岡城人吉城のみで見ることができます。実は、この入口付近が唯一跳ね出しをすぐ近くで見ることができる場所です。他の場所では、石垣に近づくことが禁止されているからです。

三番台場周辺の航空写真

台場公園への通路
三番台場の跳ね出し石垣
他の場所では石垣に近づくことができません
五稜郭の跳ね出し石垣

台場本体へは、船に乗るようにステップを登って入っていきます。次に見えてくるのは台場の近景です。台場は一辺が160mある大きな方形で、外周部分が中心部分より高くなっています。ただ、現存している遺物がほとんどないので、歴史の知識なしで訪れた場合には、史跡であると気が付かない人もいるかもしれません。入口から土塁で固められた外周部分を歩いていくと、周りの景色が素晴らしいです。左側にはお台場海浜公園、右側にはレインボーブリッジや6番台場、そして前方には東京湾が見えます。

階段を使って台場に上がります
台場の近景
外周の上を歩いていけます
正面の東京湾
右側の六番台場とレインボーブリッジ

砲台に関する遺跡

入口とは反対側の外周部分の土塁上には、2基の模擬砲座があります。しかし歴史家によると、これらは正確に再現されておらず、レプリカとも言えないとのことです。それに加えて、かつては大砲群の前方に、長大な土の防護壁(「胸牆(きょうしょう)」と呼ばれます)が設置されていましたが、崩れてしまったようです。また、それぞれの大砲の間には土造りの側壁もありましたが、台場が廃止となった後に撤去されました。大砲が並んでいたこの面は、敵に対峙する真正面だったのです。

2基の模擬砲座
周りにあった防護壁は残っていません

正面側土塁の下方内側に向き合うように、火薬庫の跡があります。土造りの堤によって囲まれています。堤の内側に、火薬庫がありましたが撤去され、今ではその代わりに竈のような石造りのものがあります。これは元から台場にあったものではないそうです。更には、堤は一部石垣によって支えられていますが、これは1923年の関東大震災の被害から復旧する際に、築かれたものです。

火薬庫跡
火薬庫跡の内部
土堤の石垣は後世の補修により築かれました

また、弾薬庫の跡が複数箇所にあります。弾薬は台場においては最も注意を要する危険物で、爆発事故を起こしかねないため、倉庫は厳重に作られ、外周の土塁の内部に石室と木枠が設置されました。現在は土盛りの背後に石室が見えるのですが、この土盛りは保存のためなのでしょうが、後の時代に作られたようです。

弾薬庫跡

陣屋と船着き場の跡

台場の平らな中心部分には、陣屋の礎石跡が並んでいるだけです。陣屋は簡易な木造作りで風呂もなく、武士たちが休憩、寝泊りするだけのものでした。戦いが起こったときには、燃えてしまう前にそこから避難する必要があったでしょう。

台場の中心部
陣屋跡

船着き場の跡は、現在の入口からとなりの角部分にあります。ビジターは立ち入ることができず、内側の方から見物するのみです。コンクリートで固められた部分がありますが、これも後の時代の産物で、公園にするときに使われたものでしょうか。

船着き場跡
船着き場には立ち入りできません

この船着き場の手前には、これまで紹介したものとはまた違った土塁があり、「一文字堤(いちもんじつつみ)」と呼ばれています。これは、船着き場がかつては台場の入口であったために、当時のビジターから容易に中を見られないよう、また船着き場から攻撃してくる敵を防ぐために設けられました。

船着き場前の一文字堤

私の感想

品川台場跡は、人々に過去にどんなことが起こったのかを知らしめるとても有機義な史跡だと思います。目に見える史跡というのは、ただ記録が残っているとか説明板があるだけよりも、明らかに優れています。東京のウォーターフロントエリアは、日本全国の経済にとってとても重要な地域です。全ての台場跡が撤去されても仕方がない状況でした。台場の持ち主であった東京都の決定(2つの台場を残す)は英断であったと思います。現時点において、1点だけお願いしたいのは、現地にある模擬の台座を、本物に近いレプリカに交換していただきたいです。そうすれば、ビジターが台場の過去の姿を理解するのに大いに役立つのではないでしょうか。

三番台場にある模擬砲座

リンク、参考情報

台場の歴史、お台場海浜公園&台場公園、海上公園なび、東京港埠頭株式会社
・「お台場 品川台場の設計・構造・機能/淺川道夫著」錦正社
・「歴史群像146号、図解 品川台場」学研

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「品川台場その1」に戻ります。
「品川台場その2」に戻ります。

今回の内容を趣向を変えて、Youtube にも投稿しました。よろしかったらご覧ください。

162.Izushi Castle/Arikoyama Castle Part3

Next comes Izushi Castle Ruins. Visitors usually first go across Tojo-bashi Bridge over Taniyama-gawa River in front of the ruins and enter Tojo-mon Gate. You will climb gentle stone steps while seeing great stone walls of the Second Enclosure on the left.

Features

Easy Route to Izushi Castle Ruins

Next comes Izushi Castle Ruins which casual visitors can easily get to. The ruins consist of several tiered enclosures at the foot of the mountain. Visitors usually first go across Tojo-bashi (meaning the bridge for going to the castle) over Taniyama-gawa River in front of the ruins and enter Tojo-mon (meaning the gate for going to the castle). You will climb gentle stone steps while seeing great stone walls of the Second Enclosure on the left. The stones used for the walls look more processed and newer than those of Arikoyama Castle on the mountain, because of the difference of their periods. The enclosure is empty now, which was used as the domain’s offices.

The map around the castle

The Tojo-bashi Gate
The Tojo-mon Gate
The stone walls of the second enclosure on the left
The top on the second enclosure

The main enclosure is above the second enclosure, which has two rebuilt turrets on both front corners (called the Eastern and Western Corner Turrets). Their designs are different from the original ones, but are made out of wood in a traditional way and look good matching the remaining stone walls.

The Western Corner Turret
The interior of the Western Corner Turrret, it is sometimes open to the public
The Eastern Corner Turret

There was the Main Hall in the enclosure, and is now Kannoden Shrine instead, which worships Hisahide Sengoku, the founder of the clan.

The top of the main enclosure
The Kannoden Shrine

Inari Enclosure at Highest of Castle

The Inari Enclosure is at the highest of the castle. It also has the highest stone walls in the castle at 13.5m. This is very rare among Japanese castles as other castles’ main enclosures are usually at the highest and have the greatest stone walls in the castle. The Arikoyama Shrine building has been constructed in the Inari Enclosure since the early stage of the castle. The current building was rebuilt during the late Edo Period and looks very old.

The high stone walls of the Inari Enclosure on the right
The Arikoyama Inari Shrine
A view from the enclosure

Attractions of Castle Town

Part of the old castle town is the former third enclosure which had the Main, Eastern and Western Gates. You can still see the partially remaining stone walls of the Main and Western Gates there. You can also visit Karo Yashiki (meaning the Senior Vassal’s Residence) which is the only remaining Samurai residence in this area. It is interesting that it looks like a single-storied house, but in fact, it has a secret chamber as the second floor.

The map around the castle town

The stone walls of the Main Gate
The stone walls of the Western Gate
The Karo-Yashiki Residence
The hidden second floor of the residence, the host on the right can see who is coming from the steps on the left through the hole in the central wall

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Izushi Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished in 1871. Instead, locals built a new drum tower called Shinkoro at the Main Gate in the same year. The tower was turned into a clock tower in 1881 and has become a symbol of the area. The area once declined because it deviated from a railway line. However, locals made great efforts to boost tourism by rebuilding castle buildings, promoting Izushi Soba noodles, Izushi Pottery which originated from the castle’s period, and so on. The area was also designated as a Preservation District for Groups of Historic Buildings in 2007. As a result, the area has become an attractive traditional town as we can see now.

The Shinkoro Tower
Izushi Soba Noodles, they are usually served on a plate

My Impression

As a fact, visiting the Izushi area takes a lot of time no matter which transportation you take. However, lots of people often visit the area. That’s because there are many attractions including the two castle ruins of Izushi and Akikoyama. Other attractions also came from the long history of this area. In my case, I would like to visit that place again to get to the ruins of Konosumi-yama Castle which the Yamana Clan first lived and I didn’t know about during my last visit. Other than castles and ruins, I would also like to buy another Izushi Pottery which has white skin and engraved patterns.

A street of the castle town
Izushi Pottery

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about a 30-minute drive away from Wadayama IC on the Bantan Renkaku Road.
There are several parking lots around Izushi Castle Ruins.
By public transportation, you can take the Zentan bus bound for Izushi from JR Toyooka Station and get off at the final bus stop.
From Tokyo to Toyooka Station: take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Sanin Line at Kyoto Station.

The Toyooka Station, the bus terminal is around the center

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Izushi Castle/Arikoyama Castle Part1”
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