157.Hachimanyama Castle Part1

The castle of Hidetsugu Toyotomi, the tragic Kanpaku

Location and History

Twisted Life by his uncle, Ruler Hideyoshi

Hachimanyama Castle was located beside Lake Biwa in Omi Province which is now Shiga Prefecture. The castle was built by Hidetsugu Toyotomi, the tragic Kanpaku ( the chief adviser to the Emperor). He was a nephew of Hideyoshi Toyotomi who was the ruler of Japan in the late 15th Century. His mother was Hideyoshi’s older sister called Tomo. He was twisted around Hideyoshi’s little finger throughout his life, but left this castle and its castle town which is now Omi-Hachiman City.

The location of the castle

Hidetsugu was born in 1568 during the Sengoku Period when his uncle, Hideyoshi worked under a great warlord, Nobunaga Oda. In 1572 when he was 4 years old, he was adopted by Hideyoshi to the Miyabe Clan in Omi Province, which Hideyoshi wanted to gain over to Nobunaga’s side. It was common for warriors at that time to ally with others, but in the case of Hideyoshi, he had to send his nephew because he had no children. After that, Hidetsugu was adopted again to the Miyoshi Clan in Shikoku Island where Nobunaga and Hideyoshi aimed to invade. However, the situation changed after Nobunaga died in the Honnoji Incident in 1582. Hideyoshi intended to be the ruler, so he wanted Hidetsugu to be one of his commanding officer. Hidetsugu fought hard for his uncle in many battles although he failed in one of them called the Battle of Nagakute in 1584. In 1585 when Hideyoshi was appointed Kanpaku as the ruler, Hidetsuku was given a large territory in Omi Province. Hidetsugu built a new castle as his home base with instructions from Hideyoshi, called Hachimanyama Castle.

The portrait of Hidetsugu Toyotomi, owned by Zuisenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

He develops new Castle, Castle Town, and Waterways

The mountain, which the castle was built, had originally been often called Hachimanyama or Hachiman Mountain, because the Himure-Hachimangu Shrine had been on the top of the mountain. The first thing to do for building the castle was to move the shrine to the foot. The mountain was 294m high and 180m above from the foot. Its slopes were very steep, which was good for protecting the castle. The Main Enclosure was built on the top where it is said the Main Tower and Main Hall were built. The Second, the Northern and the Western Enclosures were also built on the ridges spread from the top. These enclosures were all surrounded by stone walls. The Barbican Enclosure was also built below the Western Enclosure. In addition, the luxury residence for Hidetsugu was built at the foot because the top was not convenient for living. The long and straight Main Route like Azuchi Castle was also built in front of it.

The imaginary drawing of Hachimanyama Castle, from the signboard at the site, adding the red letters in English
The Main Route of Azuchi Castle

Hidetsugu also developed the castle town beside the mountain by moving the merchants in the castle town of the abandoned Azuchi Castle to the new developed area. The city area was built in a grid pattern like modern cities to improve business and living. Hidetsugu built the Hachiman-bori Moat, connected to Lake Biwa, between the castle and town. The moat was basically for defense, but it was also used for water transportation to boost commerce. The town has been prospering even after the castle was abandoned.

The illustration of Hachimanyama Castle and Town, exhibited by Omi Hachiman City Archives Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The present Hachiman-bori Moat

Short Glory before his Harakiri Incident

Hidetsugu moved to a much larger territory and finally became Kanpaku as the successor of Hideyoshi in 1590 . This was because Hideyoshi’s real or adopted male children all died young. Hidetsugu communicated well with many nobles and lords to be the next ruler after Hideyoshi. However, the situation changed again when Hideyoshi had his last son, Hideyori in 1583. In 1585, Hidetsugu was suddenly summoned by Hideyoshi’s officers due to the suspicion of his rebellion against Hideyoshi. He was sent to Mt. Koyasan, without any meeting with Hideyoshi, and He was forced to commit Harakiri. (ritual suicide by disembowelment with a sword.). Hideyoshi also ordered to execute almost all of Hidetsugu’s wives and children as offenders. Many relative nobles and lords were also punished. Hidetsugu’s mother, Tomo who was Hideyoshi’s sister felt deep sorrow, then established the Zuiryuji Temple alone in Kyoto to pray for Hidetsugu and his family.

The picture of Hidetsugu Toyotomi at Mt. Koyasan, attributed to Yoshitoshi Tsukioka (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The present Zuiryuji Temple at Hachimanyama Castle Ruins

However, no evidence for Hidetsugu’s rebellion was found. Some people said the incident happened for that he was called the Killer Kanpaku, which meant he liked killing, but it was also quite uncertain. After all, it seemed that Hidetaugu was a victim of Hideyoshi who finally became a crazy dictator and initiated a conflict between officers and lords. Hideyoshi even ordered to destroy Hachimanyama Castle followed by the Kyogoku Clan after Hidetsugu. The clan had to move to another castle, called Otsu Castle. There is an interesting story about Hikone Castle, whose Main Tower was moved from Otsu Castle. Toyotomi-style roof tiles covered with golden leaf were found at Hikone Castle which the Tokugawa Shogunate built. Some people think it was impossible as because they were against each other. Some historians speculate that the Main Tower or other buildings Hidetsugu built might have been moved or used to build Otsu Castle by Kyogoku Clan and finally brought to Hikone Castle.

The Main Tower of Hikone Castle, which was originally moved from Otsu Castle

To be continued in “Hachimanyama Castle Part2”

140.Genbao Castle Part3

The ruins were discovered after 400-year sleep.

Features

Largest Enclosure in back

If you want to go out of the Main Enclosure from the back entrance, you will need to turn left and right on the narrow route through the other Umadashi Enclosure like the front side. This means the back side of the castle was also protected heavily. The Enclosure II is at the very back and was the largest of the Castle. Therefore, Historians speculate it was used as a military post. On the other hand, the entrance of the enclosure to the outside is very simple and had no defensive capability. Historians also speculate this part had been uncompleted before the Battle of Shizugatake happened.

The map around the castle

The back entrance of the Main Enclosure
The narrow earthen bridge connecting the Main Enclosure and the Enclosure ii
The inside of the Enclosure II
the entrance of the Enclosure II to the outside

Later History

Genbao Castle was eventually abandoned after Katsuie was defeated in 1583. The ruins of it were buried naturally and returned to nature covered with trees and bushes for over 400 years. However, a local historian discovered the ruins after his research based on some records and traditions in 1980. The ruins were finally designated as a National Historic Site in 1999. The ruins are now considered as very rare ones which clearly shows the who, the when and the why the castle was built. Historians can see that the techniques used in the castle were those used in the period when the Battle of Shizugatake happened.

The Main Enclosure of Genbao Castle

My Impression

I was surprised to see such a complex structured castle was built on the top of a mountain. I was also convinced to learn the reason for why it was built. I remember that there is another complex structured castle ruins made of pure soil the same as Genbao, called Suginaya Castle in Saitama Prefecture. However, unlike Genbao, it is quite uncertain the who, the when and the why it was built. Some historians think Sugiyama Castle was built in the same period as Genbao Castle because they are similar. On the other hand, others argue that they are, in fact, different in some ways. Either way, it is also an interesting discussion.

The ruins of Sugiyama Castle

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the castle ruins.
It is about a 20-minute drive away from Kinomoto IC on the Hokuriku Expressway. There is a parking lot beside the entrance of the trail to the castle ruins.
After getting off from the IC, go along the National Route 365 to the north, turn right to the Prefectural Road 140 at the junction, and go through the Yanagase Tunnel. This tunnel had originally been used for the former Hokuriku Railway Line until 1964 and turned into the current road. Make sure that it is a one-way traffic which is controlled by the traffic light. Just after coming out of the tunnel, turn right to the forest road to the parking lot.
If you drive from the north of the ruins, such as Fukui Prefecture, go along the National Route 8 to the south, turn left to the Prefectural Road 140 at the junction, and turn left to the forest road in front of the Yanagase Tunnel.

The parking lot beside the entrance of the trail
The Yanagase Tunnel (licensed by Alpsdake via Wikimedia Commons)
The northern starting point of the Prefectural Road 140

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Genbao Castle Part1”
Back to “Genbao Castle Part2”

140.Genbao Castle Part2

A complex structured castle on the mountain

Features

Going to Castle Ruins through Trail

Today, the ruins of Genbao Castle have been well developed as a National Historic Site, even if they were at the top of a mountain. There are no castle buildings and only the foundations made of soil remained. However, it is good enough for us to understand what the castle was like because it was a specific battle castle. To reach the castle ruins, you need to walk for about 30 minutes from the parking lot. You will pass the old mountain pass called Tone-toge and climb the mountain where the castle was built.

From the parking lot to the trail
the Tone-toge mountain pass

The mountain looks natural being covered by woods and bushes around the trail, so you may be wondering if the castle ruins were built in such a place. However, you will eventually reach where the castle ruins are more visible. This is because officials or volunteers would often cut down trees and bushes in order for people to see the ruins clearly.

The trail will go for a while
The castle ruins will eventually become visible

Complex route to Center of Castle

The trail to the castle ruins is from the south, which was the front side of the castle. You can still see the side was strongly protected. The enclosure you first meet is called the Enclosure I which is surrounded by earthen walls. The entrance of the enclosure is not open to the front in the south, but the left side in the west. That means you need to walk around the walls and turn right.

The map around the castle

The entrance of the Enclosure I
The inside of the Enclosure I
Looking back the entrance of the Enclosure I
The route to the Enclosure I (the red arrow) and the counterattack from the enclosure (the blue arrow)

To get to the next one called the Koguchi Enclosure, you will have to walk on the narrow earthen bridge beside a ditch, and after that turn left.

the narrow earthen bridge to the Koguchi Enclosure
The ditch beside the earthen walls limits the route for enemies to attack
The inside of the Koguchi Enclosure
The route to the Koguchi Enclosure (the red arrow) and the counterattack from the enclosure (the blue arrow)

The Main Enclosure is the next area, but one of its Umadashi Enclosures is in front of it to prevent anyone from entering directly. You need to turn right again from the Koguchi, go around the Umadashi, and cut through the front entrance of the Main Enclosure. If you were an enemy, your attack route could be limited and would be attacked from the side while turning several times.

Turning right to go around the Umadashi Enclosure
The earthen walls in front of the Main Enclosure are also narrow
The Umadashi Enclosure seen from behind
The route to the Main Enclosure (the red arrow) and the counterattack from the enclosure (the blue arrow)

Main Enclosure controls all directions

The inside of the Main Enclosure is a square, which is also surrounded by earthen walls. There is the earthen mound at the northeastern corner where the Main Tower or a large turret was built.

The inside of the Main Enclosure
The turret base at the northeastern corner

It has the other Umadashi Enclosure in front of the back entrance in the north. It also has a small entrance in the east with the Overhang Enclosure in front of it. The east of the Main Enclosure is a slope of the mountain. Historians say this structure proves the builders thought enemies could also attack from this direction as well. The west of it is a very deep valley which was difficult for enemies to attack from. However, a ditch was elaborately built in front of the earthen walls on this side.

The location map of the Main Enclosure, adding red English letters
The northern Umadashi Enclosure
The Overhang Enclosure at the eastern side
The steep slope at the western side

To be continued in “Genbao Castle Part3”
Back to “Genbao Castle Part1”