89.Saga Castle Part1

The Saga Domain contributed to the modernization of Japan.

Location and History

Nabeshima Clan develops Castle as Home Base

Saga Castle was located in what is now Saga City, the prefectural capital of Saga Prefecture. The castle was originally named Muranaka Castle and built by the Ryuzoji Clan which was a great power in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. However, the power of the clan decreased after it was defeated by the Shimazu Clan in the Battle of Okita-nawate in 1584. Instead, the Nabeshima Clan, a senior vassal of the Ryuzoji Clan, got the power and was finally assigned as the lord of the Saga Domain by the Tokugawa Shogunate. The Nabeshima Clan improved Muranaka Castle sometime in the early 17th Century, when it was renamed Saga Castle.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Naoshige Nabeshima, the founder of the Saga Domain, owned by Nabeshima Houkoukai  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The castle was built in the riverside area on the Saga Plain. The castle mainly consisted of the Main, Second and Third Enclosures, which were surrounded together by the large Outer Moat. The Main and Second Enclosures were connected directly in the southeastern part of the castle, separated from the Third Enclosure by the Inner Moat. Only the Main Enclosure was surrounded by stone walls, but others were surrounded by earthen walls. The Main Enclosure also consisted of the Main Tower, but its details are uncertain, as most of the castle buildings were burned down by a great fire in 1726. After that, the center of the castle was at the Main Hall on the Second Enclosure. However, it was burned down as well due to another significant fire in 1835.

The illustration of Saga Caste, from the signboard aft the site, adding my comments
The Main Enclosure including the Main Tower and Main Hall, featured in the illustration above

Naomasa Nabeshima modernizes Saga Domain

Much focus was on the Saga Domain and Saga Castle at the end of the Edo Period. The domain had been responsible for the police escort in Nagasaki which was the only official international port in Japan at that time. However, they failed and allowed a British ship, whose crew started a riot in the port in 1808, known as the Phaeton Incident. After that, the domain promoted its modernization led by the 10th lord, Naomasa Nabeshima. He governed the domain from the new Main Hall in the Main Enclosure, rebuilt in 1837. Under his leadership, the domain imported the latest cannons from the West and began to produce their own cannons themselves. Surprisingly, they were successful at it for the first time in Japan, which was before the arrival of Matthew Perry’s fleet from the U.S. in 1853. The Tokugawa Shogunate asked Naomasa to provide the domestic cannons for Shinagawa Batteries in Edo Bay which were prepared for the second arrival of Perry. The domain offered 50 cannons.

The statue of Naomasa Nabeshima at the ruins of Saga Castle
The restored Main Hall of the Main Enclosure
One of the replicas of the imported cannons at the ruins of Saga Castle
The ruins of Shinagawa batteries

Saga Domain was relied on due to their modern military power by both the Tokugawa Shogunate and the New Government during the Meiji Restoration. The domain chose to support the New Government, becoming one of the four powerful domains including the Satsuma, Choshu and Tosa. It is said that one reason that the New Government defeated the shogunate was the strong cannons the Saga Domain imported or made. Naomasa became one of the most important politicians at the beginning of the Meiji Era until he died in 1871. Naomasa also promoted his retainer, Shinpei Eto, to another important position in the government before he retired. Shinpei tried to bring the latest social systems from the West – such as education, justice and the idea of a parliamentary system – to Japan to help modernize the country. He has often been recognized as the father of the modern Japanese judicial system.

A picture drawing a battle between New Government Army and the shogunate  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Shinpei Eto, from a book called “Eto Nanpaku vol.1 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle is burned during Saga Rebellion

However, lost power and authority to other politicians from Satsuma and Choshu in the political strife in 1873. He returned to Saga, asking for the launch of the parliament by democratic election to form a government. The government leader from Satsuma, Toshimichi Okubo, did not allow Shinpei’s agenda. It has been even said that he feared and envied Shinpei’s excellent abilities which might have overpowered him. Toshimichi intentionally spread the information as if Shinpei was planning to rebel against the government. He also sent his troops to Saga to force Shinpei along with his supporters to fight, known as the Saga Rebellion in 1874. Shinpei was defeated by the government, and subsequently put to death without judicial proceedings by Toshimichi, who ruled as a dictator. Saga Castle was one of the battle locations of the rebellion; unfortunately, most of the castle was burned down, again due to fire, during the battle.

The portrait of Toshimichi Okubo  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
 The Ukiyoe painting drawing the Saga Rebellion (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Saga Castle Part2”

91.Shimabara Castle Part3

The castle reclaimed its appearance.

Features

Second Enclosure and Inner Moat

Consider walking to the Second Enclosure. You can go down and up the stairs from the Main Enclosure to the Second Enclosure over the dry Inner Moat. There was the roofed Passage Bridge connecting both enclosures in the past, which was the only entrance to the Main Enclosure. If you look back to the Main enclosure from somewhere around the Inner Moat, you can find the stone walls are arranged elaborately to protect the castle. The Second Enclosure is now used as the Shimabara Cultural Hall.

Going to the Second Enclosure
The former entrance of the Main Enclosure
Looking up the Main Enclosure from the bottom of the Inner Moat

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Shimabara Castle was abandoned and all the its buildings were demolished. The Main Enclosure once became fields and the Third Enclosure was used for schools. In 1957, the castle ruins were turned into Shimabara Castle Park. The Main Tower and the turrets were rebuilt between 1960 and 1980. The park became the new Shimabara Castle again. Shimabara City has been developing the castle as a tourist center of the city.

The stone wall base for the Main Tower
The rebuilt Ushitora Turret
The rebuilt Western Turret

My Impression

When I visited Shimabara Castle, I felt both the strength of the castle and its historical atmosphere. I recommend walking in and out of the remaining stone walls to understand how wisely they were built. Shimabara City has been damaged by natural disasters such as the Mt. Unzen eruption in 1991, yet it has also received gifts from of nature such as hot springs. The city is known as a city of water. You can enjoy visiting the castle as well as food and drinks made with water.

The great and heavy stone walls of Shimabara Castle
Looking the Inner Moat from the Main Enclosure
You can glance at Mt. Unzen behind Mt. Mayuyama

How to get There

If you want to visit the ruins by car, it is about 60 minutes away from Isahaya IC on the Nagasaki Expressway.
You can park in at the parking lots for visitors in the castle.
If you want to use public transportation, it takes about 10 minutes on foot from Shimabara Station on the Shimabara Railway.
If you go there from Tokyo or Osaka, I recommend going to Nagasaki Airport by plane. After that, you can take the shuttle bus to Isahaya Station and transfer to the Shimabara Railway

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Shimabara Castle Part1”
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91.Shimabara Castle Part2

The castle looks like a battleship.

Features

You can feel power of nature

Shimabara City, which owns Shimabara Castle, is located on the skirts of Mt. Unzen. If you walk around the city area, you will notice the particular geography. The hill called Moritake, where Shimabara Castle was built, was created by the explosion of Mt. Mayuyama about 4,000 years ago. You can feel the power of nature there. If you also walk around the castle, it conserved its appearance with the great stone walls surrounded by the Inner Moat and some restored castle buildings. In particular, the high stone walls remain in good condition, so you can see the line of the walls is folded like a folding screen. The castle may be compact, but strongly built, looking like a battleship.

walking on the slope of the skirt from the city area to the castle
The remaining high stone walls
Shimabara Castle looks like a battleship

Collaboration of remaining Stone Walls and rebuilt Buildings

The area inside the original Inner Moat, including the Main and Second Enclosures, is designated as a historic site by Nagasaki Prefecture and is developed as a historical park. If you drive to the castle site, you can easily enter the Main Enclosure by crossing the earthen bridge, built in the present time, and park inside it.

The aerial photo around the castle

The entrance of the Main Enclosure
The inside of the Main Enclosure

Great View from rebuilt high Main Tower

The rebuilt five-level Main Tower stands out with its 33-meter height, the third tallest existing Main Tower in Japan. It is actually a modern building used as a museum and observation platform. Inside the tower, you can learn more about the history of the castle and the Shimabara Rebellion. On the top floor, you can enjoy see a great 360-degree view of the city. For example, Mt. Aso on Kyushu Island over Ariake Sea in the east. The Main, Second and Third Enclosures form in a line in the north. You can also see Mt. Mayuyama with Mt. Unzen behind it in the west.

The rebuilt Main Tower
A view of the eastern side from the tower
A view of the northern side from the tower
A view of the western side from the tower

Exhibition of rebuilt Turret

The Main Enclosure has more attractions. The three rebuilt turrets also have distinct exhibitions. For example, one of the turrets, called Tatsumi Turret, is used as an art gallery dedicated to a local famous sculptor, Seibo Kitamura. You can see his representative statue works such as the Peace Statue (the reduced version of that in Nagasaki Peace Park) inside. You can even see his other works outside such as the statues of Shiro Amakusa, who led the Shimabara Rebellion, and a young Nobunaga Oda, who was a great warlord in central Japan.

Going to the rebuilt Tatsumi Turret
The Peace Statue
The statue of Shiro Amakusa
The statue of young Nobunaga Oda

To be continued in “Shimabara Castle Part3”
Back to “Shimabara Castle Part1”