125.Kozukue Castle Part1

The castle in the center of the popular Kozukue Territory

Location and History

Castle along one of Kamakura Roads

Kozukue Castle was located in what is now the northern hilly area in Yokohama City, Kanagawa Prefecture. In the present Japan, Tokyo is the center of Japan including the Kanto Region. For that reason, many major roads gather in or spread from Tokyo. Some of them also go through the eastern seaside area of Yokohama City. However, before the Edo Period which started in the 17th Century, the center of the Kanto Region was Kamakura, called the Warriors’ Capital. Many major roads, called the Kamakura Roads, at that time also gathered in or spread from Kamakura. Kozukue Castle was near one of the Kamakura Roads and alongside Tsurumi-gawa River, which was an important spot for transportation.

The location of the castle

The present road network of the Kanto Region going to and from Tokyo (Source: Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport)
The past road network of the Kanto Region going to and from Kamakura (Source: Tama City, adding the positions of Kozukue Castle and Kamakura)

“Kozukue Territory” and “Kozukue Group”

It is uncertain when Kozukue Castle was first built. The first appearance of the castle was after the Rebellion of Kageharu Nagao, who was against his master, the Uesugi Clan in 1478. The Toshima Clan who supported Kageharu used the castle, and Dokan Ota, a senior vassal of the Uesugi Clan beat them. After a while, the Hojo Clan, a great warlord used the castle again as a bridgehead for invading the Kanto Region in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. Even after the Hojo Clan was succeeded, they still considered the area around the castle as one of their important territories. They called the area “Kozukue Territory” like we call the area today, Yokohama City. They also called the group of the warriors who lived in the area “Kozukue Group”. Kozukue Castle was the center of the area and the group, and one of Hojo’s branch castles, which must have been more popular than we assume.

The portrait of Dokan Ota, owned by Daijiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Ujitsuna Hojo, the lord of the clan when they invaded the Kanto Region, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle has Simple Layout

Kozukue Castle was built on the edge of a hill sticking out from the south towards Tsurumi-gawa River to the north. The layout of the castle was simple, having the large Western and Eastern Enclosures, divided by the slender Connecting Enclosure. They were all made of soil. However, these enclosures were surrounded by large deep dry moats. What kinds of buildings stood on the enclosures is still uncertain, but it is thought that some turrets were built on the earthen bases. In addition, some barbicans were built along the hill around the main portion.

The relief map around the castle

The imaginary drawing of Kozukue Castle (from the signboard at the site, adding comments)

Development and Abolition of Castle

In 1590, when the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi invaded Hojo’s territory for his unification of Japan, Hojo ordered their branch castles to gather the warriors to their home base, Odawara Castle. That meant the branch castles including Kozukue Castle had to protect themselves with fewer defenders. The lord of Kozukue Castle decided to draft farmers to protect it. It is thought that the dry moats of the castle were also developed making them larger and deeper to protect the castle with fewer warriors and untrained defenders. This is what we can now see as the ruins of the castle. However, no battles happened then. The castle was open and finally abandoned after Hojo surrendered to Hideyoshi.

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The dry moat of Kozukue Castle

To be continued in “Kozukue Castle Part2”

84.Kochi Castle Part3

Why would Kochi Castle maintain so many original buildings?

Features

Interior of Main Tower

The first floor of the tower has some equipment for defense, such as machicolations and loopholes for guns. In addition, there are also iron spikes outside the floor to prevent enemies from climbing the tower, which is the only remaining example in Japan.

From the Main Hall to the Main Tower
The first floor of the Main Tower
One of the machicolations
One of the loopholes for guns
The iron spikes outside the first floor

On the second floor, you can see lot of exhibitions about the castle like a miniature model.

The second floor of the Main Tower

The third floor is basically the attic of the hip-and-gable roof, but it has windows and space inside the roof for defenders who could counter attackers.

The third floor of the Main Tower

On the fourth floor, you can see one of the bronze grampuses on the roof close by through the window.

The forth floor of the Main Tower
The bronze grampuses seen through the window

The fifth floor is a very dark attic, by contrast, the top floor is open and bright where you can enjoy a great view of the castle and city to all directions. You can also walk around the veranda (another steel handrail was added for safety and preservation) like the lord of the castle used to do.

The fifth floor of the Main Tower
The top floor of the Main Tower
The veranda of the top floor
A view from the top floor

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Kochi Castle was turned into Kochi Park. All the buildings in the Second and Third Enclosures were demolished while the buildings in the Main Enclosure and a few others remain. All the 15 remaining castle buildings have been designated as Important Cultural Properties since 1950. The castle also became a National Historic Site in 1959.

The Main Tower of Kochi Castle

My Impression

When I visited Kochi Castle for the first time many years ago, I misunderstood the reason for the small Main Hall in the Main Enclosure. I thought it was because Japanese people in the past were shorter and smaller than now. In my recent second visit, I understood its real reason. I guess if the hall was very large, it might have been demolished like the hall in the Second Enclosure when the castle once became the park. If it is true, fortune is unpredictable and changeable.

The interior of the Main Hall of the Main Enclsosure

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car:
It is about 15 minutes away from Kochi IC on Kochi Expressway.
There are several parking lots around the castle such as the Kochi Park Parking Lot.
By public transportation, take the Tosaden Bus from JR Kochi Station and get off at the Kochijo-mae bus stop.
If you go there from Tokyo or Osaka, I recommend traveling by plane or using an express bus.

Links and References

Kochi Castle Pamphlets

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Kochi Castle Part1”
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84.Kochi Castle Part2

You can sense the original state of the castle.

Features

Spot for seeing both Main Tower and Main Gate

As a visitor to Kochi Castle today, you will likely enter the remaining Main Gate first, where you can also see the remaining Main Tower over there. In fact, this is a very rare spot where you can see the two kinds of remaining buildings together in Japan.

The Main Tower and Main Gate of Kochi Castle
The Main Gate

The aerial photo around the castle

From Suginodan Enclosure to Iron Gate Ruins

After entering the gate, you can climb on the stone steps to the Suginodan Enclosure where the statues of Kazutoyo Yamanouchi’s wife, called Chiyo, and a horse stand. These statues show that she spent her dowry to buy a fine horse for Kaszutoyo’s parade which was the chance for his promotion. You can also see the great high stone walls of the Third Enclosure above.

The stone steps to the Suginodan Enclosure
The statues of Chiyo and the horse
The high stone walls of the Third Enclosure

If you go further by climbing the stone steps, you will be at the ruins of the Iron Gate which was an important point for defense. The gate was next to the Third Enclosure and led to the Second Enclosure. That’s why the tricky system which could lead enemies to the false gate to the Main Tower, called Tsumemon, was built.

The ruins of the Iron Gate
The Tsumemon Gate seen from the iron Gate Ruins

Third and Second Enclosures

The Third Enclosure is the largest enclosure in the castle where a large building for ceremonies was in the past. In addition, the stone walls of Chosogabe’s period were found there by excavation.

The Third Enclosure
The stone walls of Chosogabe’s period
The Main Tower seen from the Third Enclosure

The Second Enclosure had another Main Hall for the lord where he usually lived, as the hall in the Main Enclosure was too small for daily life. However, the Second Enclosure is just a square now.

From the Iron Gate Ruins to the Second Enclosure
The Second Enclosure

Main Enclosure, almost same condition as original

You can finally reach the Main Enclosure by crossing the remaining Tsumemon Gate from the Second Enclosure. Surprisingly, this enclosure is in almost the same condition as its original, with the 11 remaining buildings. This is also the only spot where the original Main Tower and Main Hall remain at the same place in Japan.

Going to the Tsumemon Gate from the Second Enclosure
The buildings of the Main Enclosure seen from the Main Tower

You will need to enter the Main Hall first to reach the Main Tower as they are directly connected to each other. The hall is not large because the space of the enclosure is limited, but important ceremonies for the domain were held there.

The entrance of the Main Hall
The interior of the Main Hall

The Main Tower has four layers and six stories, that means two of the stories are attics (3F and 5F). Its style is called the lookout tower type. In the case of Kochi Castle, there is the small two-layer lookout tower on the large two-layer turret with a hip-and-gable roof. The tower also has decorations like Chinese style gables and triangular shaped gables on the roof and a veranda with the lacquered handrail at the top floor. It looks traditional and very beautiful.

The Main Tower of Kochi Castle

To be continued in “Kochi Castle Part3”
Back to “Kochi Castle Part1”