earthen wall – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

18.Hachigata Castle Part2

In this article, let us simulate walking from the outer southern edge of the castle through the center to the tip.

Features

Castle becomes Hachigata Castle Park

Today, the ruins of Hachigata Castle have widely been developed as Hachigata Castle Park of about 5 hectare.s Many people visit to see the historical artifacts on display in the castle, as well as enjoy walking and relaxing in a nature setting. For example, there is a big cherry blossom tree which has recently become popular, called “Ujikuni Sakura (Cherry Blossom)”, named after the lord of the castle, Ujikuni Hojo. I recommend you allow yourself enough time to walk around the park to check the important artifacts of the castle and hopefully discover more interesting things to you. In this article, let us simulate walking from the outer southern edge of the castle (the outside of the Third Enclosure) through the center (the Main Enclosure) to the tip (near the meeting point of the rivers).

The big cherry blossom tree, “Ujikuni Sakura”

The front of the castle is near the railway crossing between the path and the Hachiko Line. The path after the crossing will divide into three – the centeral paved one which visitors usually go, the right one which was the Main Route, and the left one which leads to the Third Enclosure. The first route is convenient for casual visitors, however, we will take the second and third this time, in order to follow the original routes as closely as possible.

The map around the castle, the red broken line shows the route similar to the original Main Route and the blue broken line shows the route to the Third Enclosure

Going on Main Route

The right Main Route goes over some large deep moats beside the Main Route Enclosure, which could have been defensive.

The moat beside the entrance of the route (on the left)

The route next turns left at a square Umadashi enclosure, which was the key to the castle’s defenses. From there, it goes towards the center of the castle and finally reaches the border of the Third and then Second Enclosures.

The route turns left at the Umadashi Enclosure

The part of the Main Route in the castle diorama

You can see another Umadashi enclosure from the outside at the point, but originally, the route would have passed through it.

Another Umadashi is outside on the right

The route goes straight to the Second Enclosure, not thought the Umadashi

The route passed thought the Umadashi according to the diorama

Going to Third Enclosure via Suwa Enclosure

The left route is currently the approach to Suwa Shrine, also called the Suwa Enclosure. It is a square patch of land, still surrounded by earthen walls and deep dry moats, which are obviously a type of Umadashi system.

The earthen walls surrounding the enclosure

Another narrow path connects one side of the Umadashi to the entrance of the Third Enclosure, which looks very defensive. These are typical of the Hachigata Castle defense system.

Going from Umadashi of the Suwa Enclosure to the Third Enclosure

The entrance of the Third Enclosure, viewed from inside

The part of the Suwa Enclosure, the red arrow indicates the direction of the current route

Third Enclosure as Important Site

The Third Enclosure is the highest point of the castle. Tall, thick earthen walls, supported by stone mounds inside, (looking like stone walls), surround the enclosure. These structures were restored in the present time based on excavation records. A four-legged gate was also restored based on the research. Other evidence of buildings like halls has not been found so far, but the enclosure must have been important for the castle.

The earthen walls, supported by stone mounds, surround the enclosure

To be continued in “Hachigata Castle Part3”
Back to “Hachigata Castle Part1”

111.Mukai-Haguroyama Castle Patr2

The ruins of Mukai-Haguroyama Castle have been developed as part of the expansive Hakuho-zan Park including three mountains. The ruins are on one of which, Iwasaki-yama Mountain, which is 50 hectares in size.

Features

Part of expansive Natural Park

Today, the ruins of Mukai-Haguroyama Castle have been developed as part of the Hakuho-zan Park. The park is an expansive natural park which is 112 hectares in size, including three mountains, Kannon-yama, Haguro-yama, and Iwasaki-yama. The castle ruins are on the Iwasaki-yama Mountain, which is 50 hectares in size. The ruins are also huge and mixed with the park’s other facilities like adventure playgrounds, promenades, and arbors.

The map around the Hakuho-zan Park

Therefore, it may be difficult for visitors to go around all of the ruins without proper instructions. It is recommended to visit the guidance facility called Mukai-Haguro Gallery in advance to get the information of the ruins. Please make sure that the facility is open only on weekends and holidays from mid-April to mid-December. In addition, please check if the ruins are open or not, for example, in cases of bears being found. Anyway, let me introduce the summary of the ruins.

If you enter the park from the north beside the Mukai-Haguro Gallery, you can go on the paved forest road over Kannon-yama and Haguro-yama Mountains to the castle ruins on Iwasaki-yama Mountain in the back even by car. However, please be careful when passing each other because the road is very narrow.

The map around the castle

The diorama of the castle ruins, exhibited by the Mukai-Haguro Gallery, the red line shows the forest road

Large Third Enclosure

If you manage to find the administration building of the park on the right, it is around the Third Enclosure of the castle. The enclosure is spacious which was said to be used as a riding ground for horses. Its thick earthen walls and deep dry moats are still there. There are also the Northern Enclosure and the ruins of Moriuji Ashina’s residence across the road.

The earthen walls of the Third Enclosure

Next, you can go up the road and you will find Ochayaba (meaning the Tea House) Enclosure on the left, which is a viewing spot. It is said that Moriuji held tea ceremonies there.

Second Enclosure as Center of Castle

If you go further and turn right along the road, while seeing Benten Enclosure on the left, you will be between the Second Enclosure on the right and the Main Enclosure on the left. In fact, the road at the spot is the bottom of the former ditch dividing them.

The former ditch between the Main and Second Enclosures

The left ridge is the Main Enclosure and the right one is the Second Enclosure, according to the diorama

The Second Enclosure is on the top of a ridge which was thought to have been the center of the castle as it was larger and has a better view than the Main Enclosure. In addition, the Waterwell Enclosure is just below it. You can climb to the top and understand these points while seeing a great view of the Aizu Basin and Wakamatsu (the former Kurokawa) Castle

Climbing to the top of the Second Enclosure

You can see Wakamatsu Castle in the view

If you climb down and walk around the enclosure, you will see the essence of the castle. It is mostly soil-made structures all around. For example, the enclosure is surrounded by earthen walls and dry moats which are partially supported by stone mounds. The entrance of the enclosure consists of alternating earthen walls which also use large stones. However, these stones mostly collapsed. The original path through the castle is also made looking like another dry moat.

The earthen walls and dry moats surrounding the Second Enclosure

The dry moats are partially supported by the stone mounds

The ruins of the entrance to the enclosure

There are some large stones lying around, which were probably used for the entrance

To be continued in “Mukai-Haguroyama Castle Part3”
Back to “Mukai-Haguroyama Castle Part1”

96.Obi Castle Part2

A perfect harmony of artifacts and nature

Features

Main Gate, Face of Castle

Today, many tourists visit the Obi Castle ruins and the former castle town. Because of the nature of the Shirasu plateau, the enclosures of the castle were naturally made independently. Many of them were turned into a shrine, schools, playgrounds, and residential areas. The remaining enclosures, which were the main portion of the castle, are open to visitors.

The aerial photo around the castle

Tanoue Hachiman Shrine, the former Hachiman Shrine

A playground which was around the Middle Castle

Obi Second Primary School was the enclosures which were collectively called the Second Enclosure

Visitors usually first walk on the Main Route to the restored Main Gate on the original stone walls, which is a popular image for the ruins. In fact, the details of the original gate were unclear, but people restored it using a traditional method and Obi Cedar wooden materials. That’s why the gate matches the original items as if it is also original. The inside of the gate is a square defensible space surrounded by great stone walls, called Masugata, which builds up the gate’s character.

The Masugata system inside the Main Gate

The Masugata system of the Main Gate seen from the top of the earthen walls of the Third Enclosure

Third Enclosure, protected by Earthen walls and Dry moats

The Main Gate is the entrance of the very large third enclosure which is surrounded by earthen walls and dry moats except for the gate. If you enter the gate and go to the inside of the enclosure, you will see the 4m high earthen walls which are the older part of the castle. According to the signboard at the site, the walls were originally about 16m high, from the bottom of the dry moat in front of them.

The earthen walls of the Third Enclosure, seen from its inside

The dry moat of the Third Enclosure, seen from its outside (in front of the Main Gate)

Main Enclosure, surrounded by Stone walls

There are high and long mud walls on top of stone walls opposite the earthen walls, which surround the main enclosure. The enclosure also has long and wide stone steps and another Masugata system. Many tall Obi Cedar trees planted around make them look more majestic. Overall, you will understand that the castle was built by combining the older earthen walls and newer stone walls over time.

The stone walls surrounding the Main Enclosure

The Obi Cedar trees around look majestic

The Main Enclosure includes the Obi Castle Historical Museum where you can learn the history of the castle, and Obi Primary School, which visitors can not enter. The Matsuo-no-maru Enclosure is next to and little above the Main Enclosure, which has a rebuilt traditional hall. The hall was not original for the castle, but was built using designs of other remaining halls including a traditional Japanese steam bath.

The Obi Castle Historical Museum (licensed by Kthrk25 via Wikimedia Commons)

Former Main Enclosure, with wonderful Obi Cedar trees

The former Main Enclosure is at the highest spot in the castle. You can walk up long stone steps and will see it is also surrounded by great stone walls and has another Masugata system. This enclosure had once been destroyed by the earthquakes in the early Edo Period, but the Obi Domain seem to have rebuilt this enclosure firmly. However, since then, the inside of it has been having no buildings as the Main Hall for the lord was moved from it to the new Main Enclosure.

The Masugata system of the former Main Enclosure

Instead, there are plenty of Obi Cedar trees growing on the ground with a moss-like carpet, which looks amazing! If they started to be planted when the enclosure was rebuilt, they may be nearly 350 year old.

The Obi Cedar trees in the former Main Enclosure

The enclosure also has the restored back gate where you can go out from to visit other attractions of the castle.

You can go out of the back gate to the Second Enclosure area

To be continued in “Obi Castle Part3”
Back to “Obi Castle Part1”