66.Tsuwano Castle Part1

A great castle on a steep mountain

Location and History

Yoshimi Clan builds Castle to prepare for Mongol Invasions

Tsuwano Town is located in an intermount basin of Shimane Prefecture, the Chugoku Region. It has an old town atmosphere, sometimes called a little Kyoto in Sanin Area (northern Chugoku Region). In addition, Tsuwano Castle Ruins which is on the mountain, beside the town makes it more impressive. In fact, the town originally came from its castle town.

The old town atmosphere of Tsuwano
Tsuwano Castle Ruins seen from the town area

The castle was first built in 1295 by the Yoshimi Clan, which was sent by the Kamakura Shogunate to protect the area from the possible Mongol Invasions. The invasions historically ended in 1281, but warriors in Japan still expected the Mongolian army might have attacked Japan again. That’s why the clan built the castle on a steep mountain which was just off the Japan Sea. The clan eventually lived in the castle as a local lord for over 300 years. In 1554 of the Sengoku Period, the castle experienced a 110 day siege against the Sue Clan, but did not fall before the truce. The castle was strong enough though it had been all made of soil using natural terrain. After that, the Yoshimi Clan finally followed the Mori Clan, the leader of the Chugoku Region. However, the Yoshimi Clan had to leave the castle with the Mori Clan’s lost of the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600.

A scene of the Mongol Invasions from “The picture scrolls of the Mongol invasion attempts against Japan” (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The location of the castle

Success and Declining of Naomori Sakazaki

Ieyasu Tokugawa won the battle and sent Naomori Sakazaki to the castle as the founder of the Tsuwano Domain. Naomori who came from the Ukita clan who was the enemy of Ieyasu decided to support Tokugawa because he had a tiff with his own clan. Thus he changed his family name. He modernized and more fortified the castle by building high stone walls, some turrets and the Main Tower in the main portion on the steep mountain. Some other lords at that time often built or renovated their castles on a plain land for the convenience of their government. The reason for Naomori’s decision was said to prepare for possible battles against the neighbor Mori Clan or there was no space for a new castle in the basin. He also developed the castle town, for example, by building waterways to prevent fire and growing carps in them to reduce mosquitos. He also brought paper mulberry trees to the area, which would later create a new industry known as Sekishu Japanese writing paper.

The portrait of Naomori Sakazaki, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Part of the illustration of Tsuwano Castle in Iwami Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan
The remaining stone walls on the mountain

On the other hand, Naomori was an impulsive and monomaniac person. For example, he pursued a relative for 8 years to avenge the death of a person and he didn’t stop until that person got punished. He even sued the Tomita Clan who accommodated that person in the Shogunate Court and was finally fired by the shogunate. However, in the end he brought his own misfortune. In 1615 when the summer campaign of siege of Osaka where the shogunate defeated Hideyori Toyotomi, Naomori joined the Tokugawa shogunate’s side. Hedeyori’s wife, Senhime, who was the shogun’s daughter, was rescued and brought to the shogun by Naomori himself. The next year, a very mysterious incident occurred. Naomori had planned to kidnap Senhime a night before her wedding to one of Tokugawa Shogunate’s senior vassals. The shogunate’s troops surrounded his house but he committed harakiri.

The portrait of Senhime, owned by Gugyoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Hidetada Tokugawa who was Senhime’s father, owned by Saifuku-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

It is quite uncertain why he tried such a foolish action. Some say this was because the founder of the shogunate and Senhime’s grandfather, Ieyasu Tokugawa had promised to marry Senhime with the person who rescued her, but they didn’t do what they have initially promised. Another speculation is that Naomori was asked to find a husband for Senhime because he himself was much older than her. But nothing happened according to his wishes and so eventually he lost everything because of his egoistic tendencies.

The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Kamei Clan follows Tsuwano Domain and Castle

The Tsuwano Domain was followed by the Kamei Clan, which governed the domain until the end of the Edo Period. Like many other domains, they built the Main Hall at the foot of the mountain for living and the government. They also kept the castle on the mountain, but it was actually very tough. In 1685, the Main Tower and some other turrets were burned down by a lightning fire. Unfortunately, the tower was not restored. The stone walls on the mountain sometimes collapsed due to earthquakes or natural cause because of the steep terrain. As a result, most of the stone walls were repaired or re-plied during the period, but some of them were left that way. In addition, the domain established the domain school called Yorokan to educate the retainers. Many pioneers to modernize Japan in the Meiji Rra came from this school such as Ogai Mori (a novelist) and Amane Nishi (a Philosopher).

The illustration of Tsuwano Castle (showing its state of the early Meiji Era), in 1874, from the signboard at the site
The interior of the restored domain school
The photo of Ogai Mori, in 1916 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The photo of Amane Nishi, published in 1931 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Tsuwano Castle Part2”

66.津和野城 その1

急峻な山の上にある素晴らしい城

立地と歴史

元寇に備えて吉見氏が築城

津和野町は、中国地方の島根県の山間地にある盆地に位置しています。ここには古い町並みがあり、たびたび山陰(中国地方の北部)の小京都と呼ばれます。更には、町に沿った山の上に津和野城跡があり、より強い印象を与えます。実際、この町は津和野城の城下町を起源としています。

津和野の古い街並み
市街地から見える津和野城跡

この城は最初は1295年に鎌倉幕府から派遣された吉見氏によって築かれました。想定される更なるモンゴル襲来から城周辺の地域を防衛するためです。史実のモンゴル襲来は1281年で終わっていた(弘安の役と呼ばれる2回目の襲来を撃退)のですが、日本の武士たちはまだモンゴル軍が攻めてくるかもしれないと思っていました。そのため、吉見氏は日本海から下がったところにある急峻な山の上に城を築いたのです。吉見氏は結果、この城を地方領主として300年以上も居城としました。戦国時代の1554年、この城は陶(すえ)氏のよって攻められ110日間の籠城戦となりましたが、それでも落城せず、講和となりました。自然の地形を使った全て土造りの城でしたが、それでも十分強力な防御力を備えていたのです。その後、吉見氏は中国地方の覇者となった毛利氏に従いましたが、1600年の関ヶ原の戦いでの敗戦により、城を離れることになってしまいました。

1回目のモンゴル襲来(1274年の文永の役)の様子、「蒙古襲来絵詞」より (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

城の位置

坂崎直盛の栄光と没落

関ヶ原の戦いに勝利した徳川家康は、坂崎直盛を津和野城に送り、津和野藩を立藩させました。直盛は、家康の敵方であった宇喜多氏出身(当初は宇喜多詮家、うきたあきいえ、と名乗っていました)でしたが、氏族内の内紛により単独で徳川方に加わりました。そして、名前を変えたのです。彼は、切り立った山の上にあった城の主要部に高石垣を築いたり、櫓や天守を建てたりして、近代化かつ防御力の強化を図りました。その当時の他の大名たちの多くは、統治の利便のために平地に(あるいは低山上に)城を築いたり改修したりしました。直盛がそれとは違った判断をした理由は、隣接していた毛利氏との戦いに備えたためであるとか、山麓の盆地上には必要十分なスペースがなかったからなどと言われています。直盛は城下町も整備し、例えば火災防止のため水路を張り巡らせ、蚊の発生を抑えるためその中で鯉を飼わせたりしました。また、楮の木をこの地域に持ち込み栽培させました。これは後に、石州和紙として知られる新しい地場産業の発展に結びつきます。

坂崎直盛肖像画、個人蔵(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
石州津和野城図(主要部分)、出典:国立公文書館
山上に残る石垣

一方、直盛は直情的で執拗な性格を持っていました。例えば、出奔した親族(甥の宇喜多左門、直盛の小姓と関係を持ち、その小姓を処刑した家臣を殺害した)が処罰されるまで8年間探索し続けました。それだけでなく、その親族をかくまった富田氏を幕府に訴え出て、そのために富田氏はついには改易となってしまいました(鉱山からの収益を私したことによる大久保長安事件の影響もあったとされます)。彼のこのような性格は、最終的には自分自身に不幸をもたらします。幕府が豊臣秀頼を滅ぼした1615年の大坂夏の陣には、直盛は徳川幕府方として参陣しました。秀頼の妻、千姫はときの将軍、秀忠の娘であり、救助されて、直盛自身が将軍のもとに送り届けました。その翌年、不可思議な事件が発生します。直盛が、千姫が幕府の重臣、本多忠刻(ほんだただとき)と再婚する前夜に千姫を略奪する計画を立てていたというものです。それが発覚したことで幕府の軍勢が直盛の屋敷を包囲し、直盛は切腹して果てました(千姫事件)。

千姫肖像画、弘経寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
時の将軍、徳川秀忠肖像画、西福寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

なぜ直盛がそんな愚かな行動に出ようとしたのかは全く不明です。幕府の創設者であり、千姫の祖父である徳川家康が、千姫を救出した者をその婿にすると約束したのに、その約束が守られなかったからとも言われます。別の説としては、直盛は千姫よりずっと年上であるので、千姫の次の嫁ぎ先を探すよう頼まれていたが、彼の思う通りにはならなかった(他の候補者を探していたのに裏切られた)ため、彼の自尊心が許さず、その結果全てを失うことになったというものです。

徳川家康肖像画、加納探幽筆、大阪城天守閣蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

亀井氏が津和野藩と城を継承

津和野藩は、亀井氏によって継承され、江戸時代末期まで続きました。他の多くの大名たちと同様に、亀井氏は居住と統治のための御殿を山の麓に築きました。山上の城も維持されましたが、それは実に大変なことでした。1685年、天守といくつかの櫓が落雷のため焼失しました。残念ながら天守は再建されませんでした。山上の石垣もその急峻な地形のため時折、地震あるいは自然に崩落しました。その結果、ほとんどの石垣が江戸時代の期間中に修繕されるか再築されましたが、一部の部分は初期の状態で残っています。余談ですが、津和野藩は養老館と呼ばれた藩校を設立し、藩士の教育に努めました。この藩校からは明治時代に日本の近代化に尽くした人物が多く輩出されました。小説家の森鴎外や、啓蒙家で哲学者の西周(にしあまね)などです。

津和野城絵図(明治初期の城の様子)、1874年、現地説明板より
復元された藩校の内部
森鷗外写真、1916年 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
西周写真、1931年出版 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「津和野城その2」に続きます。

129.Tatsuoka Castle Part3

The renovated landmark will come.

Later History

Tatsuoka Castle was eventually abandoned in 1871. All the buildings of the castle excluding the Kitchen House were sold and demolished. Its stone walls and water moats were buried to be used as the school and fields. Norikata Matsudaira, the founder of the castle, changed his name to Yuzuru Ogyu, throwing the outdated family name “Matsudaira” away. He helped the establishment of the former Japanese Red Cross Society, called Hakuaisha, in the Meiji Era.

This photo was taken after he changed his name to Yuzuru Ogyu (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The drawing that Prince Arisugawa Taruhito grants Sano Tsunetami the permission to create Hakuaisha, attributed to Takeo Terasaki (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The drawing that Prince Arisugawa Taruhito grants Sano Tsunetami the permission to create Hakuaisha, attributed to Takeo Terasaki

People in Tatsuoka started to restore the castle ruins in 1932 by digging the moats up and repairing the stone walls. As a result, the ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1934 while the bridge in front of the Main Gate Ruins was restored at the same time. In addition, the Taguchi Primary School in the ruins has just closed in March, 2023 due to the school integration. Saku City, which owns the ruins, is thinking about restoring the castle as much as in the Edo Period after the closing. It plans to restore the Main Gate in the near future as well. It is also considering to restore the Main Hall by moving the Kitchen House to its original position, re-building some missing structures, and asking the owners of some removed buildings to return them to their original positions.

The water moats of Tatsuoka Castle
The Main Gate Ruins

My Impression

I guess if a battle happened, Norikata would not use Tatsuoka Castle for the battle. Instead, he would use the former Taguchi Castle which could easily target Tatsuoka Castle. When the enemy reached the castle, he would counterattack it. Tatsuoka Castle was an outstanding landmark which could easily pull the enemy in. That is my speculation. I am looking forward to how the new Tatsuoka Castle will appear in the future.

Tatsuoka Castle Ruins seen from Taguchi Castle Ruins (the observation platform)

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about a 20-minute drive away from Saku-minami IC on the Chubu-odan Expressway. There are several parking lots around the castle ruins.
If you want to use public transportation, it takes about 20 minutes on foot from JR Usuda or Tatsuokajo Station.
To get to Usuda of Tatsuokajo Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Koume Line at Sakudaira Station.

The parking lot beside the information center

In addition, if you want to visit the Goryokaku observation platform, go on Nagano Prefectural Road 120 from the castle ruins to the north for about 500m. Once you see the signpost of the platform, turn right. The platform is 2.1km away from it along the forest road. You can reach it by following other signposts. If you drive there, you will need a small off-road vehicle to be able to reach the top. If not, you can park around the first signpost.

Nagano Prefectural Road 120
The entrance to the platform
The parking lot near the entrance is on the right
Going on the forest road
The parking lot near the platform

That’s all. Thank you.
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