The nature of the lords really reflected those of their castles.
Later History
The ruins of Kasugayama Castle were abandoned for a long time. In 1901, the Kasugayama Shrine was founded at the mid slope of the mountain. Since then, cedar trees were planted to cover the mountain. However, Joetsu City, who owns the ruins, is now cutting them down for visitors to see the enclosures on the mountain clearly. The excavation has just begun to reveal the castle. The ruins have been designated as a National Historic Site since 1935.
The Kasugayama ShrineThe picture of the ruins of Kasugayama Castle about 100 years ago (Joetsu City Buried Cultural Property Center)The main portion of the castle from the Koguchi entrance at the Back Route
My Impression
When I visited the ruins of Kasugayama Castle, I felt that this castle is more open than other mountain castles such as the Hojo Clan’s. It could be because the castle had few defensive structures like earthen walls and dry moats for its so many enclosures. I think this comes from Kenshin Uesugi’s personality. He always fought outside of the castle and was never besieged. The castle was not actually attacked by enemies at all in Kenshin’s period. I have also been reminded that the nature of the lords really reflected those of their castles.
The guide map of the castle ruins ( from the signboard at the site)Overlooking the enclosures from the Main EnclosureKenshin Uesugi on a horse drawn by the folding screen drawing of the Kawanakajima Battle
How to get There
If you want to visit there by car: It is about 10 minutes away from Joetsu IC on Hokuriku Expressway. The ruins offer several parking lots. Or it takes about 30 minutes walking from Kasugayama Station on the Echigo Tokimeki Railway. From Tokyo to Kasugayama Station: Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen Super Express and transfer at Joetsu-Myoko Station to the Echigo Tokimeki Railway.
The castle ruins which can be seen on the way from Kasugayama Station
Now, you can visit the ruins of Kasugayama Castle easily by car. You can also park at the Kasugayama Shrine located on the mid slope of the mountain and go to the top. However, if you have time, how about walking on the original routes from the foot of the mountain?
The whole view of the ruins of Kasugayama Castle
Around Main Route
For example, you can park at the starting point of the Main Route on the way to the shrine. The route was recently developed for visitors, and is about 3.5km to the top, but gently sloped with a laid-back atmosphere. After a while, you will pass beside the ruins of the guard house on a mound. The route gets a little steep and rough and goes through woods and valleys. You will eventually reach a large enclosure called Kakizaki’s Hall. You are near the main portion, so you will arrive at the top after passing Kagekatsu’s Hall and the Well Enclosure.
Around the Main Route
The entrance of the Main RouteThe Main Route with a laid-back atmosphereThe ruins of the guard houseThe Main Route through a forestKakizaki’s HallThe Well Enclosure
Around Back Route
The alternative is to walk on the Back Route which starts from the Lotus Pond in the Atagoyama Park at the northeast foot of the mountain. You will first enter the ruins of the Kurogane-mon Gate and the Hall for the Lord, which are now surrounded by woods. The route becomes winding and steep before reaching the ruins of the Sengan-mon Gate. The gate was very large and defensive with a deep dry moat inside. You will approach the main portion by climbing the zigzagged route on the Belt Enclosure and the Koguchi Entrance. The entrance is said to once be the front of the castle when it was smaller. The inside of the entrance is Naoe’s Hall on the ridge which is the opposite of Kagekatsu’s Hall in the main portion. This route looks like a mountain castle more than the Main Route.
Around the Back Route
The Lotus Pond in the Atagoyama ParkThe ruins of the Kurogane-mon GateThe ruins of the Hall for the LordThe ruins of the Sengan-mon GateThe deep dry moat inside the Sengan-mon GateThe Koguchi EntranceAround Naoe’s Hall
Around Main Enclosure
The Main Enclosure is on the top of the mountain where you can see a good view of the Kubiki Plain and the Japan Sea. The ruins of the Main Tower is next to the Main Enclosure, where it is said a kind of turret actually stood. Some religious facilities also stood around, and only the Bisyamon-do Hall was restored in recent times. Under the Main Enclosure, a lot of enclosures are on the eastern slope of the mountain, such as the Second Enclosure and Kagetora’s Hall. If you look up the top of the mountain from the mid slope, you can see these enclosures still covering the mountain. The Kasugayama Shrine is nearby, and you will see the statue of Kenshin Uesugi.
Around the Main Enclosure
The Main EnclosureA view from the Main EnclosureThe ruins of the Main TowerThe Bisyamon-do HallThe Second EnclosureLooking up the enclosuresThe statue of Kenshin Uesugi
Other Attractions
You can also visit the Kasugayama Castle Historic Site Square where part of the So-gamae outer earthen walls was restored, Joetsu City Buried Cultural Property Center where you can learn more about the castle and Kenshin, and the Rinsen-ji Temple where Kenshin studied in his childhood near the ruins.
The Kasugayama Castle Historic Site SquareJoetsu City Buried Cultural Property CenterThe Somon Gate of the Rinsen-ji Temple (licensed by ELK via Wikimedia Commons)
