17.Kanayama Castle Part2

An impregnable fortress on a hiking course

Features

Castle Ruins on Hiking Course

Today, the ruins of Kanayama Castle have been well developed by Ota City. The mountain, where the ruins were located, are covered by several hiking courses including the routes to the ruins, where you can see many people enjoying and relaxing on them. For history fans visiting the ruins, it may be better to climb Nishiyama (the Western Mountain) course from such as Historic Site Kanayama Castle Guidance Facility.

The map around the castle

Historic Site Kanayama Castle Guidance Facility
The entrance to the Western Mountain course from the facility
the Western Mountain hiking course
Arriving at the parking lot on the mountain

Drivers can also go straight to the parking lot on the mountain through the Kanayama Drive Way, about 700m away from the top, around Nishijo or the Western Castle area. The Western Mountain hiking course also meets the area, so a tour to the ruins usually starts there.

The entrance of the Kanayama Drive Way
The Kanayama Drive Way
The parking lot on the mountain
The entrance ruins of the Western Castle near the parking lot

Defense system to prevent enemies from attacking Castle easily

To go to the center of the ruins, you need to go on the original or recently developed route towards the east. You will find several ditches which were built for preventing enemies from attacking the castle easily.

The location map of the castle ruins at the site
a route to the center, developed in the present time
An original route, but it breaks on the way
One of the ditches

In particular, the one in front of the Lookout Tower was built by digging bedrock deeply, which looks very impressive. In addition, double entrances behind the ditch are surrounded by restored stone walls, and you can enter them after going across the earthen bridge over the ditch.

The ditch in front of the Lookout Tower
The first entrance under the tower
The second entrance
The miniature model of around the Lookout Tower, exhibited by Historic Site Kanayama Castle Guidance Facility

The tower above the entrance was rebuilt as an observation platform, where you can see great views of the city area and mountains around. This area must have been a pivot point of the castle.

The rebuilt tower as an observation platform
Looking down the entrance from the tower
A view from the tower

Restored Main Entrance with Stone Walls and Paving

Next comes the main portion of the castle, called Mijo, which is divided by the Large Ditch, the largest one in the castle, and a small reservoir being covered with stone mounds, called Tsuki-no-ike or the Moon Pond.

The map of the main portion of the castle

The Large Ditch
The Moon Pond

Over the pond, you will see the outstanding Main Entrance in a valley, which are surrounded by great several tiered stone walls on both sides. The entrance also has stone paving with drainage ditches, so it looks like a European castle. These stone walls were recently restored by the officials based on the achievements of the excavations and studies, partially using the original stones.

The restored Main Entrance
The several tiered stone walls on the northern side of the valley
Seeing the southern side of the valley from the northern side
Seeing the Main Entrance from the inside

They were thought to be completed by the Hojo Clan, the final owner of the castle. This is because they were piled in a method called Agodome style (in which all the stones in the bottom row are layered heavily to prevent the walls from collapsing) which the clan used in Hachioji Castle, their other branch castle. However, the excavation team also found that the stone walls were improved many times, so other clans might have started to build them.

A part of the stone walls, having the Agodashi style
The ruins of Hachioji Castle

To be continued in “Kanayama Castle Part3”
Back to “Kanayama Castle Part1”

17.金山城 その2

現在、金山城跡は太田市によってよく整備されています。城跡がある山には、城跡へ行くものも含めていくつものハイキングコースが設定されています。多くの人たちがハイキングコースを歩いて、楽しんだりくつろいだりしています。城跡に行ってみようとする歴史ファンであれば、例えば史跡金山城ガイダンス施設から西山コースを歩いてみてはいかかでしょう。

特徴、見どころ

ハイキングコース上にある城跡

現在、金山城跡は太田市によってよく整備されています。城跡がある山には、城跡へ行くものも含めていくつものハイキングコースが設定されています。多くの人たちがハイキングコースを歩いて、楽しんだりくつろいだりしています。城跡に行ってみようとする歴史ファンであれば、例えば史跡金山城ガイダンス施設から西山コースを歩いてみてはいかかでしょう。

城周辺の地図

史跡金山城ガイダンス施設
施設からハイキングコースへの入口
西山コース
山上の駐車場に到着します

車でなるべく近くまで行ってみたいのであれば、金山ドライブウェイを登って山頂から700m程離れた駐車場まで行くことができます。そこは城でいえば西城の辺りです。西山ハイキングコースも駐車場がある場所に合流するので、城跡への道のりはどちらの場合でも通常そこからスタートします。

金山ドライブウェイの入口
金山ドライブウェイ
山上の駐車場
駐車場近くにある西城筋違城門

敵が簡単に近づけない仕掛け

城跡の中心部分に行くには、東に向かって伸びる通路を通っていきます。その途中では、いくつもの堀切を見ることができます。これらは、敵が簡単に城を攻撃できないように作られたものです。

現地にある案内板
通路はよく整備されています
西矢倉台西堀切
西矢倉台下堀切

特に物見台の前にある堀切は、岩場を深く削り取って作られたものであり、大変印象的です。更には堀切の背後には、二重の関門があって復元された石垣によって囲まれています。この関門へは、堀切にかかった土橋を渡って入っていきます。

物見台下堀切
物見台下の第一の関門
こちらは第二の関門
物見台周辺の復元模型、史跡金山城跡ガイダンス施設にて展示

関門の頭上の物見台があったとこところには、展望台が再建されていて、その上からは市街地やその周りの山々が見渡せて素晴らしい景色です。このエリアは城防衛の要の地点だったに違いありません。

展望台として使われている物見台跡
展望台から関門を見下ろしています
展望台からの景色

石垣・石敷で復元された大手虎口

次に来るのは、城の主要部分で、城で最も大きな「大堀切」と「月ノ池」と呼ばれている石垣で覆われた小さな貯水池によって他と隔てられています。

城主要部の地図

大堀切
月ノ池

その池を越えていくと、谷の中で際立って見える大手虎口が見えてきます。谷の両側を素晴らしい多段階の石垣が覆っています。この虎口はまた、排水路を伴った石が敷かれたいて、まるでヨーロッパの城のようにも見えます。これらの石垣・石敷は、現代になって発掘調査の成果とその後の研究に基づき、一部はオリジナルの石を使って復元されたものです。

復元された大手虎口
谷の北側の多段石垣
谷の北側から南側を見ています
虎口を逆方向から見ています

これらは最後の城主であった北条氏によって完成されたと考えられています。その理由は石垣を積むのに、アゴ止めという技法が使われており(石垣の一番下の段の石が大きくはみ出していて、石垣の崩壊を防ぐようになっています)、この技法は北条氏の他の支城である八王子城でも使われているからです。しかし発掘により、石垣は何度も改修されたことがわかっていて、北条氏より前の由良氏が石垣を作り始めたと考えられています。

アゴ止めとなっている部分
八王子城跡

城の生活の場と聖地

谷の上段の方の曲輪群は、防衛の拠点であるとともに生活の場としても使われました。発掘によって、カマドや井戸の跡が発見されています。これらは、石垣の上(大手虎口南上段曲輪)に、小屋とともに復元されています。最上段のところにある南曲輪は、現在休憩所として使われていて、ここも景色がよい場所です。

城主要部の地図

大手虎口南上段曲輪に復元されている小屋
復元されたカマド
南曲輪と休憩所
南曲輪からの眺め

山の頂上にある本丸に行くには、「日ノ池」と呼ばれる、これも石垣によって覆われていますが、月ノ池よりもっと大きな池を通り過ぎていきます。これは貯水池ではなく、湧水池であるとされています。この城が築かれるよりずっと前の古代のときから聖地として人々の間で知られていました。よって、城にいた人たちもこの池を宗教的な儀式のためにも使っていたと考えられています。

日ノ池

神社になっている実城

山の頂上周辺には、実城(本丸)、二の丸、三の丸があります。しかし後者の二つの曲輪は私有地となっているので立ち入りはできません。よって、頂上の本丸に行くしかありませんが、そこは現在は新田神社になっています。城跡としては、実城の周りの武者走りを呼ばれるところを歩いてみると、部分的に城のオリジナルの石垣が残っています。しかし、これを誰が築いたかは不明とのことです。

二の丸は立ち入り禁止です
実城にある新田神社
実城からの眺め
実城裏手にある現存石垣
実城を囲む馬走り(腰曲輪)

その後

金山城が廃城となった後、徳川幕府は庶民を山域に立ち入ることを禁じ、江戸時代の間、そこで採れる松茸は将軍に献上されていました。実は、金山で採れた松茸は1964年まで皇室に納められていたそうです。

金山一帯は今でもアカマツに覆われていますが、マツタケは老木化のため採れないそうです(写真は東山ハイキングコース)

幕府はまた、以前新田荘だった地域を保護し、世良田東照宮(せらだとうしょうぐう)、金龍寺(きんりゅうじ)、大光院(だいこういん)などの寺社仏閣を建設しました。幕府は、徳川将軍家も新田氏の支族であると称しました。つまり皇室の子孫ということになります。幕府でさえも全国を治めるのにそれ相応の権威を必要としたのです。城跡としては、金山城跡は1934年に国の史跡に指定されました。太田市は1995年以来、史跡として調査発掘や整備を続けています。

世良田東照宮
金龍寺
大光院

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。

「金山城その1」に戻ります。

今回の内容を趣向を変えて、Youtube にも投稿しました。よろしかったらご覧ください。

17.Kanayama Castle Part1

An important and strong castle in the northern Kanto Region

Location and History

Yoshisada Nitta comes from Nitta Manor

Kanayama Castle was located on Kanayama Mountain in modern day Ota City, Gunma Prefecture. The area around the city was called Nitta Manor in the Middle Ages, where the Nitta Clan, a relative of the Minamoto Clan which originated from the Imperial Family, settled in. It was on Tozando Route, a major one in Kanto Region, and was sandwiched between Tone River and Watarase River, two major ones in the region as well. In the past, large rivers could provide rich farmland, water transportation, and even barriers when a battle happened. That’s why the area of Nitta Manor was considered important.

The range of Ota City and the location of the castle

Iezumi Iwamatsu builds Castle

Yoshisada Nitta is the most famous person of the clan, who attacked and defeated the Kamakura Shogunate in 1333. However, he was unfortunately defeated in 1338 by troops of the Ashikaga Shogunate which Takauji Ashikaga who was also a descendant of the Minamoto Clan established. After that, the Iwamatsu Clan, a branch of the Nitta but supporting the shogunate, followed the manor. The lord of the clan originally lived in the hall on a plain area, called the Iwamatsu Hall. However, it got too dangerous to continue to do so, because many battles happened all over the Kanto Region since the Kyotoku War started back in 1454. Therefore, the lord of the clan at that time, Iezumi Iwamatsu decided to build his new home base on Kanayama Mountain in the northern part of the manor, which would eventually be completed in 1469, and be called Kanayama Castle.

The portrait of Yoshisada Nitta, owned by Fujishima Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Iwamatsu Hall which has become Shorenji Temple
A view of Kanayama Mountain seen from around Iwamatsu Hall Ruins

Yura Clan overthrows Iwamatsu Clan

In the Sengoku Period when the Kanayama Castle was active, a popular trend called Gekokujo or Overthrowing their lords was often seen. In the case of the Iwamatsu Clan, their senior vassal, the Yokose Clan overthrew the Iwamatsu Clan, by supporting a puppet lord and killing an unmanageable lord. For example, the lord, Naozumi Iwamatsu was forced to retire and devote all of himself to the field of linked poem called Renga. The Yokose Clan finally changed their family name to the Yura Clan, declaring they were actually another branch of the Nitta Clan, which also meant a descendant of the Minamoto Clan. They needed not only real power but also the authority the people could respect, to survive as a local warlord during the period.

The self-portrait of Naozumi Iwamatsu, owned by Shorenji Temple, one of the earliest self-portraits in Japan (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The tomb of Naozumi Iwamatsu, located near Shorenji Temple

Hojo Clan takes over and completes Castle

In the late 16th Century, much larger warlords than the Yura Clan, such as the Hojo, Uesugi, and Takeda Clans, battled each other over the Kanto Region. The policy of the Yura Clan was to deal and follow the strongest warlord each time as other local lords did. The lord of the clan, Narishige Yura even mediated between the Hojo Clan and Uesugi Clan in 1569 to provide Kanayama Castle for their negotiation, but unfortunately, the alliance lasted only a short time. The clan following one great warlord meant that they could be attacked by other great warlords. Kanayama Castle was actually attacked several times by all the three warlords, the Hojo, Uesugi, and the Takeda, however, never failed. That’s why this castle was considered impregnable and called one of the Seven Great Castles in the Kanto Region. The Kanto Region eventually belonged to the Hojo Clan, which forced the Yura Clan to hand Kanayama Castle over to the Hojo Clan in 1585.

The tomb of Narishige Yura (in the center) at Kinryuji Temple near the castle ruins
The portrait of Ujiyasu Hojo whom Naozumi suggested the alliance with the Uesugi Clan, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Kenshin Uesugi whom Naozumi suggested the alliance with the Hojo Clan, owned by Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The first stage of Kanayama Castle seemed to be built on around the top of the mountain and made of soil. As time passed by, the castle was developed and improved greatly. It is said that the Hojo Clan completed the final version of the castle. They expanded the range of the castle from the top to the western and southern ridges of the mountain. They also improved the main portion of the castle by building stone walls and even stone paving. The castle didn’t have the Main Tower which major castles in western Japan often had, but it is very rare case for those in eastern Japan to have full-scale stone walls at that time.

The restored Main Entrance of Kanayama Castle
The miniature model of the Main Entrance of Kanayama Castle, exhibited by Historic Site Kanayama Castle Guidance Facility

Abrupt ending of Castle

The main history of Kanayama Castle ended all too soon in 1590 when the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi invaded the Hojo’s territory in order to unify Japan. Kanayama Castle was governed by the Hojo’s retainers, but many of them were ordered to gather in Odawara Castle, the Hojo’s home base, so only a few defenders remained in Kanayama Castle. That’s why they had to surrender and open it when they were attacked by the invasion troops led by Toshiie Maeda. After that, the castle was eventually abandoned.

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Odawara Castle

To be continued in “Kanayama Castle Part2”