2.Goryokaku Part3

If the Benten Cape Battery remained…

Features

Goryokaku Tower

Apart from the ruins themselves, you should consider visiting Goryokaku Tower, a 107m tall observation platform built exclusively for viewing Goryokaku. Goryokaku was designed flat to prevent enemies’ canons from targeting anything, so today’s visitors might not be able to grasp its shape. If you go up in the elevator of the tower to its observation room at 90m high, you will enjoy a great view of the star shaped fort.

Goryokaku Tower
The miniature model of Goryokaku, exhibited in the tower
A view of Goryokaku from the observation room
Hakodate Mountain and the city area can also be seen from the observation room

Ruins of Square Style Fort

Another attraction related to Goryokaku is the ruins of Shiryokaku, the Square Style Fort, about 5km away from Goryokaku in the northeast. It is much smaller than Goryokaku, so you can see its unique structure once you arrive at the ruins.

The aerial photo around the castle

The entrance of the Square Style Fort Ruins
You can see the square shape when standing at the edge
The edge seemed to have a cannon

Later History

After the Battle of Hakodate ended, almost all the buildings of Goryokaku were demolished. The Imperial Japanese Army owned the ruins to use as a parade ground during the Meiji Era. In addition, the water in the moats was used to make ice blocks called Hakodate Ice between 1870 and 1953. This was because the water had been led from Kameda River and was clean since the foundation of Goryokaku. In 1913 during the Taisho Era, Hakodate City asked the Minister of the Army to open the ruins as a park, which was accepted in the next year.

The water moat was used to make ice blocks
Looking outside from the edge of a bastion

My Impression

I regret that there are no ruins of the Benten Cape Battery at all. It was completely scrapped and its stone materials were reused for the improvement of Hakodate Port in 1899. Only the signpost stands now where the battery was. If only a little of it remained like Shinagawa Batteries in Tokyo Bay, people could easily understand the sharing of roles between it and Goryokaku. Anyway, I hope Goryokaku will keep its unique position in the Japanese history with its unique style among Japanese castles.

The ruins of the Benten Cape Battery
The monument of the improvement of Hakodate Port
The stone materials from the Benten Cape Battery must hove been used somewhere in the port

How to get There

If you want to visit the ruins by car, It is about a 20-minute drive away from Hakodate Airport or the center of Hakodate City. From Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station, it takes about 40 minutes to get there. There is a parking lot for visitors beside the park.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Tram Hakodate bound for Yunokawa from Hakodate Station and get off at the Goryokaku-koen-mae stop. It takes about 15 minutes on foot from the stop to get there.
To get to Hakodate Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Hokkaido Shinkansen super express at Tokyo Station and transfer to the Hakodate Line at Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station.

Links and References

Official Website of Goryokaku Tower

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Goryokaku Part1”
Back to “Goryokaku Part2”

2.五稜郭 その3

弁天岬台場が残っていたとしたら・・

特徴、見どころ

五稜郭タワー

城跡そのものとは別に、五稜郭タワーにも登っていただきたいです。このタワーは高さ107mの、ほぼ五稜郭を専門に眺めるための展望台です(もちろん函館山や函館市街地もよく見えます)。五稜郭は大砲からの標的になるのを防ぐため、平面的にデザインされていて、今日のビジターからするとその形をはっきりとつかめないかもしれません。よって、エレベーターで90mの高さの展望台に登っていただくと、星形の城の形が素晴らしい景色として目に入ってきます。

五稜郭タワー
タワー内に展示されている五稜郭の模型
展望台から見た五稜郭
函館山と市街地も見えます

四稜郭跡

五稜郭に関係するもう一つの見どころは、五稜郭の北東約5kmのところにある四稜郭跡です(五稜郭の鬼門(北東)を守護する東照宮を防衛するために築かれたとも言われています)。五稜郭よりはずっと小さいですので、そこに着いてみればそのユニークな形が見て取れると思います。

四稜郭周辺の航空写真

四稜郭跡入口
端の方に立つとその形がわかります
大砲が据えられていたと思われる場所(四隅の一つ)

その後

函館戦争が終わった後、五稜郭のほとんどの建物は撤去されました。明治時代の間は、帝国陸軍が演習場として城跡を所有していました。また、堀の水は製氷のために使われ、そこで作られた氷は「函館氷」として1870年から1953年まで販売されていました。堀の水は五稜郭設立のときから亀田川から引かれていて、清涼だったからです。大正時代の1913年には函館市が陸軍省に城跡を公園として開放するよう要請し、その翌年に五稜郭公園として実現しました。

かつて製氷に使われた水堀
稜堡の先端から外側を見ています

私の感想

五稜郭とその関連の歴史を振り返ってみると、つくづく弁天岬台場の痕跡が全く残っていないのが惜しまれます。台場は完全に解体され、その石材は1899年の函館港の改修資材として再利用されました。その場所には、かつてそこに台場があったことを示す標柱が立っているだけです。東京湾の品川台場のように、もし少しでもその遺跡が残っていたとしたら、台場と五稜郭の役割分担が今の人々にもよく理解できたのではないかと思います。いずれにせよ、五稜郭が日本の城の中でも独特なスタイルを持っていることにより、日本の歴史の中でユニークな存在として記憶され続けてほしいです。

弁天岬台場跡
函館港改良工事記念碑
このどこかに弁天岬台場の石が使われているはずです

ここに行くには

車で行く場合:函館空港または函館市の中心部から約20分のところです。新函館北斗駅からは40分くらいはかかるでしょう。公園に駐車場が隣接しています。
公共交通機関を使う場合は、函館駅から湯の川行きの函館市電に乗り、五稜郭公園前駅で降りてください。そこから歩いて15分くらいで現地に着きます。
東京または大阪から函館駅まで:東京駅で北海道新幹線に乗り、新函館北斗駅駅で函館本線に乗り換えてください。

リンク、参考情報

五稜郭公園 国指定特別史跡「五稜郭跡」、函館市住宅都市施設公社
函館・五稜郭タワー
・「よみがえる日本の城9」学研
・「日本の城改訂版第4号」デアゴスティーニジャパン
・「歴史群像56号、日本初の稜堡式要塞 函館五稜郭」学研
・「幕末維新の城/一坂太郎著」中公新書
「函館市史」デジタル版

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「五稜郭その1」に戻ります。
「五稜郭その2」に戻ります。

2.Goryokaku Part2

A major tourist spot in Hakodate City

Features

Entering Center of Ruins by going across Moats

Today, the ruins of Goryokaku have been designated as a National Special Historic Site and are one of the most popular tourist spots in Hakodate City. They are also famous for cherry blossoms. There are two entrances after crossing the bridges over the water moats, which are two of the three original entry ways. People usually enter the front entrance which has a good view.

The aerial photo around the castle

The front entrance
The Back Gate as the second entrance
The original third entrance doesn’t have its bridge now

You need to go across two bridges to reach the front gate. The first bridge goes to the only ravelin before the second one for the gate. Gorgeous stone walls incorporating the Hanedashi system surround the area because it was also the original front side.

The First Bridge
the ravelin
The stone walls of the ravelin which has the Hanedashi system
The Second Bridge
The front gate of the ruins

After going through the gate, you can see a “blindfold” wall called Mikakushi-rui, which made sure visitors could not see inside and the defenders could protect the castle from enemies attacks easily. There are three behind the original entrances.

Unique blindfold walls

The blindfold wall behind the front gate
The blindfold wall behind the back gate
The blindfold wall for the third gate ruins also remains

Restored Hakodate Magistrate’s Office

If you go around the wall, you will see the restored Hakodate Magistrate’s Office building in the center. Actually, one third of it was restored using the original methods in 2010 based on old photos, remaining documents, and excavation discoveries. The other two thirds are flatly exhibited on the ground.

The restored Hakodate Magistrate’s Office building
The rest of the original office is flatly exhibited

You can enter the building to see what it was like in the past. About half of its interior is a large hall which was used for official ceremonies and the magistrate’s working room. The rest is the officers’ rooms which exhibit the history of the office and Gryokaku. An interesting point is three empty jars buried under the entrance step, which were unearthed in the excavation. Their purpose is unknown, but some speculate they were used to make a resonant sound when people walked on the step.

The large hall
The magistrate’s working room
An officers’ room which is now used for exhibitions
The three excavated empty jars

Walking around Bastions

You can also climb up or down or walk around the five large-scale bastions basically made of soil. In fact, it is uncertain if they had cannons inside or on the bastions from the first stage of Goryokaku. This may be one of the reasons that one of the bastions has a slope the escaping force built and used to carry cannons to the top of it. There are also ruins of a powder magazine inside another bastion, which are thought to have been built by the force as well.

The edge of a bastion
The slope which was used to carry cannons to the top of the bastion
The ruins of a powder magazine

There is a warehouse, which is the only remaining original building of Goryokaku, next to the administrative office and the rest house, which are built like original warehouses. The remaining one is only open to the public during certain periods. Two barrels of a gun are exhibited beside these buildings. One of them belonged to the Choyo which was sunk by the escaping force in the Battle of Hakodate, but pulled from the sea later. The other one was used by the force in another position other than Goryokaku in the battle.

The remaining warehouse
The administrative office and the rest house looking like original buildings
The barrel of a gun which belonged to the Choyo
The barrel of a gun which was used in another position of the escaping forceThe barrel of a gun which was used in another position of

To be continued in “Goryokaku Part3”
Back to “Goryokaku Part1”