東北地方～Tohoku Region – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

13.Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part3

Go along the former Oshu Road to the north until you get near Abukuma River, and look back to the left, you will see another great scenery. It is 180m long stone walls on a hill along the river, called Komine Castle Eastern Stone Walls.

Features

Walking around Main Enclosure

If you want to see other attractions of the castle, you can get out of the main enclosure through the ruins of Sakura-no-mon (meaning the cherry gate) to walk around the stone walls of the enclosure on the belt enclosure, the lower tier of the main portion. The ruins of Tsukimi-Yagura (meaning the moon viewing turret) are in front of the gate ruins of the enclosure, which look very strong with their remaining stone wall base.

The map around the main enclosure

The ruins of Tsukimi Turret seen from the second enclosure below

The belt enclosure surrounds the western and northern sides of the main enclosure. You can feel relaxed by walking on the belt enclosure, while enjoying looking at the great, long and high stone walls of the main enclosure. These stone walls look well-maintained. However, they collapsed heavily during Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011 and were repaired by Shirakawa City for the following eight years (completed in 2019).

The great stone walls of the main enclosure

The explanation board of the stone walls being destroyed by the earthquake and repaired later on

You will eventually reach the other gate ruins of the belt enclosure, called Ya (arrow)-no-mon. You can see a great view of the three-level turret at the northeastern edge of the main enclosure on the right. However, if you were an enemy, the defenders would attack you through the turret’s machicolations and loopholes facing you.

Going to Outside of Castle

Another recommendation for you is to visit the former third enclosure, which is the east of the main portion. It has turned into the city area mainly including public facilities. There is only one remaining castle building among the area, the Taiko-Yagura Turret, which was originally used beside the Taiko-mon Gate in the second enclosure. It was moved to a private sector, converted to a tea room, and finally moved to the current position where it has been since 1930.

The map around the castle

If you go further to the east until the National Route 294 (the former Oshu Road), go along the road to the north until you get near Abukuma River, and look back to the left, you will see another great scenery. It is 180m long stone walls on a hill along the river, called Komine Castle Eastern Stone Walls. In fact, they were recently discovered when the pine trees on the hill were cut down for the bypass road constructions. They must have been built to protect the castle from the threats from the north. These stone walls connect to the back gate of the castle, which opens to the north, but you can’t go directly to the gate due to the construction site between them.

Looking the stone walls from the bridge over the Abukuma River

No entry is allowed around the stone walls due to the constructions

My Impression

While visiting the well-remaining structures and restored buildings of Shirakawa-Komine Castle, I felt the strong intentions of Nagashige Niwa, the builder of them, to protect the castle from possible enemies from the north. He must have been one of the few lords to do it properly and quickly. I also think that the history during the Boshin War lets us to know that such a strong castle had a weak point and could not survive without enough soldiers and proper instructions

The three-level turret seen from Abukuma River, north of the castle

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 10-minute drive away from Shirakawa-Chuo Smart IC on the Tohoku Expressway.
There is a parking lot in the park.
By public transportation, the castle is very near the JR Shirakawa station. You can even see the nice view of the three-level turret from the platform.
From Tokyo to the station: Get the Tohoku Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Tohoku Line at Shin-Shirakawa Station. The destination will be the next station.

The castle ruins seen from the platform of the station

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part1”
Back to “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part2”

13.白河小峰城　その３

旧奥州街道に沿って北の方に行き、阿武隈川が近くなってきたら、左の方に振り向いてみて下さい。素晴らしい光景を見ることができます。それは、小峰城東側石垣という、川に沿った丘の上に広がる１８０ｍもの長さの石垣です。

特徴、見どころ

本丸の周りを歩いてみる

城の他の見どころの場所にも行ってみましょう。本丸のもう一つの門であった桜之門跡から外に出て、城主要部分の下段にあたる帯曲輪を歩きながら、本丸石垣を眺めてみます。

本丸周辺の地図

月見櫓跡が帯曲輪の入口の脇にあるのですが、残っている石垣だけでもとても強力そうに見えます。

帯曲輪は、本丸の西側と北側を囲んでいます。本丸の長大ですばらしい石垣を眺めながら、リラックスした気分で歩いてみることができます。これらの石垣はとてもよく維持されているように見えるのですが、２０１１年の東日本大震災のときにはひどく崩壊してしまい、白河市はその後８年間もかかって修復したのです（２０１９年に修復完了）。

そうするうちに腰曲輪の、矢之門というもう一つの門の跡に着きます。右側には、本丸の北東隅にそびえる三重櫓の姿が目に入ってきます。しかし、もし敵がここを通ったとしたら、守備兵は櫓の石落としや狭間から猛烈な攻撃を加えていたことでしょう。

城の外側に行ってみる

もう一つのおすすめは、元三の丸だった所に行ってみることです。城の主要部分の東側に当たります。そこは既に市街地になってしまっていて、公共施設が多くあります。このエリアの中に、城の中で唯一現存している建物があります。元は二の丸の太鼓門の脇にあった太鼓櫓です。この建物は民間に売却され茶室に改造された後、1930年から現在の位置に移されているのです。

城周辺の地図

更に東の方に進んでいくと、国道２９４号線（旧奥州街道）にぶつかります。その国道に沿って北の方に行き、阿武隈川が近くなってきたら、左の方に振り返ってみて下さい。素晴らしい光景を見ることができます。それは、小峰城東側石垣という、川に沿った丘の上に広がる１８０ｍもの長さの石垣です。実はこの石垣は、バイパス工事を行うにあたって、丘の杉林を伐採したことにより最近発見されたものなのです。この石垣は、北方からの脅威から城を守るために建設されたに違いありません。またこの石垣は、北に向かって開いている城の搦手門につながっています。しかし残念ながら、工事現場が間にあるために、今石垣を眺めている位置からは、搦手門に直接行くことはできません。

私の感想

白河小峰城の、よく残されている基礎部分や復元された建物群を見てみると、北からの潜在的脅威から城を守り抜きたいという、築城者の丹羽長重の強い意志を感じました。長重は、当時でも数少ないそういったことを確実に短期間で成し遂げられる数少ない大名の一人だったのでしょう。また、幕末の戊辰戦争に起こった歴史は、そんな強力な城であっても弱点があり、十分な兵力と指揮能力がなければ生き残れないということを教えてくれていると思います。

ここに行くには

車で行く場合：東北自動車道の白河中央スマートICから約１０分かかります。
公園内に駐車場があります。
公共交通機関を使う場合は、ＪＲ白河駅からすぐ近くとなります。駅のホームからも三重櫓の姿がよく見えます。
東京から白河駅まで：東北新幹線に乗って、新白河駅で東北本線に乗り換えてください。目的地は次の駅です。

リンク、参考情報

・小峰城跡、白河市公式ホームページ
・「シリーズ藩物語　白河藩／植村美洋著」現代書館
・「人物叢書　松平定信／高澤憲治著」吉川弘文館
・「城を攻める城を守る／伊東潤著」講談社現代新書
・「よみがえる日本の城１７」学研
・「日本の城改訂版第１０３、１４５号」デアゴスティーニジャパン

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「白河小峰城その１」に戻ります。
「白河小峰城その２」に戻ります。

今回の内容を趣向を変えて、Youtube にも投稿しました。よろしかったらご覧ください。

13.Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part2

the ruins of the castle were turned into a park. Officials changed their policy for developing the ruins because the detailed drawings of the castle buildings were left by Sadanobu Matsudaira. They were wondering if the castle would be restored to its original condition. That would be the first attempt in the way large castle buildings are rebuilt in the present time of Japan.

Later History

During the Meiji Era, the ruins of the castle were turned into a park in which the baseball stadium was constructed in during the Showa Era. Officials changed their policy for developing the ruins because a lot of citizens complained and the detailed drawings of the castle buildings were left by Sadanobu Matsudaira. They were wondering if the castle would be restored to its original condition. That would be the first attempt in the way large castle buildings are rebuilt in the present time of Japan.

The aerial photo around the castle during the 1970’s

The detailed drawing of the three-level turret Sadanobu Matsudaira left

However, there was a big problem with the law. Japan’s Building Standard Act has very strict restrictions on wooden buildings which are over 13m tall. According to this law, new large old-style wooden buildings like the Shirakawa-Komine castle turret are not allowed to be built. So officials continued the restoration of the turret not as a building, but as a structure that would be allowed by the law. It was finally completed in 1991. However, another problem occurred as the government made the most part of the turret inaccessible to visitors, because it was not “a building”. At last, the law had the provisions to be exempt for historical buildings in 1993. The three story-level was finally opened to visitors.

Features

Castle Ruins still look Strong

Today, if you stand in front of the ruins of Shirakawa-Komine Castle, called Shiroyama Park, you will be impressed by its wide remaining stone walls and the slim restored three-level turret on the top. The entrance of the park was that of the second enclosure, which had Taiko (drum)-mon Gate. The enclosure has become an open space where people can enjoy relaxing and exercising. It is also partially used by public facilities such as Komine-jo(castle) History Museum and a tea house.

The aerial photo around the castle

The entrance of the second enclosure (the ruins of Taiko-mon Gate

The appearance around the second enclosure in the past, from the miniature model of the castle, exhibited by *Komine-jo Castle History Museum*

The main portion of the castle ahead still looks very strong, which is surrounded by the inner moat and two-tiered high stone walls. These tiers consist of the main enclosure on the top and the surrounding Take (bamboo)-no-maru Enclosure. You need to go across the earthen bridge over the moat and the ruins of Shimizu(pure water or spring)-mon Gate to enter it. The gate was the largest one in the castle and Shirakawa City is actually planning to restore it by 2026 (as of January 2024). Next, if you climb the stone steps and turn right on the Take-no-maru Enclosure, you will see the three-level turret close by.

*The appearance around the Shimizu-mon Gate and the Take-no-maru enclosure in the past, from the miniature model of the castle, exhibited by Komine-jo Castle History Museum*

Good Combination of restored Turret and Gate

You can also see Mae-gomon (meaning the front gate) next to the turret which has been restored in the original way since 2004, following the turret. The set of the turret and the gate looks very good and shows the authority of the castle. If you enter the gate, you will be at the main enclosure, which is an empty space but had the main hall for the lord in the past.

The three-level turret (in the back) and the Mae-gomon Gate (in the front), seen from the Take-no-maru Enclosure

The ruins of the main hall of the main enclosure

*The appearance around the main hall in the past, from the miniature model of the castle, exhibited by Komine-jo Castle History Museum*

The three-level turret stands on the northeastern corner of the enclosure. Its three floors are simply built with the 11.7meters (6 Ken in the traditional Japanese unit of length) square of fist floor, the 7.8 meters (4 Ken) square of the second one and the 3.9 meters (2 Ken) square of the top one. Each level also has simple roofing and has two-tones of colored walls from white plaster and black-painted lumber. Overall, the tower looks very beautiful with its good design and color arrangement.

The three-level turret, seen from the inside of the main enclosure

Interior of Turret is completely restored as well

You can enter the turret from the inside of the enclosure. From the processes of restoring this turret, officials always stay inside and monitor the safety of the visitors. For example, only five visitors can stay above the first floor at the same time under the current regulations. That’s because the turret was restored exactly in the same way as the original one except for the minimum safety equipment and explanation boards. If you walk around the first floor, you will find that it is not bright and many columns standing inside. Some of the columns came from pine trees of Inari Mountain, one of the hills where the severe battles occurred in 1868 during the Boshin War. That’s why you can see the bullet marks, caused by the war, on one of them.

the bullet marks on the column of the first floor

You can also see the defense systems like machicolations, loopholes and bay windows at the northern and eastern sides of the floor. These sides face the outsides of the enclosure, which could have been attacked by enemies.

A machicolation built in the first floor

The loopholes built in the first floor (the black square ones)

If you want to go to the second and third floors, please be careful when climbing the very steep stairways, but you can use the handrails and ropes.

As you go above, the floor becomes smaller and you may feel you are in a box on the top floor. The floor also has defense systems similar to other floors, where you can understand the turret is very practical for battles. In addition, you can see views of the outside through the lattice windows of the floor.

To be continued in “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part3”
Back to “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part1”