196.Sadowara Castle Part1

The castle symbolized the Ito Clan’s success and failure.

Location and History

Ito Clan from eastern Japan builds Castle

Miyazaki Prefecture is located in the eastern part of the Kyushu Region, which is known for its agriculture. Because of its long from the north to the south and its face is the direction of sunrise, therefore, it’s suitable for farming. Almost all the area of the prefecture was called Hyuga Province, which means the province facing the sun. It is easy to see the province had been fertile since the Ancient Times. There has actually been the popular Saitobaru Burial Mounds which were built between the 4th and 7th Centuries in the central part of the prefecture. The province also had the legend of the first Emperor Jinmu coming from there, going to the east, in order to establish Yamato Imperial Court.

Saitobaru Burial Mounds

The range of Miyazaki Prefecture and the location of the castles

Sadowara Castle was the one which once became the center of Hyuga Province and the home base of the Ito Clan. The clan originated from the Kudo Clan and called themselves a land name of Ito when they settled in Ito, the eastern part of Izu Peninsula, eastern Japan in the 12th Century. Since the Kamakura Shogunate was established at the end of the century, some of the warriors were sent by the shogunate to local areas to govern them. A branch of the Ito Clan, which was sent to Hyuga Province, was one of them. The Tajima-Ito Clan, which was named after the settlement, was said to have first built the castle in the 14th Century.

The range of Izu Peninsula (inside the blue line) and the location of Sadowara Castle

Top of Ito 48 Castles

Meanwhile, another person from the core family of the Ito Clan was also sent by the Ashikaga Shogunate to Hyuga Province in the same century to govern the area during the Northern and Southern Courts period. Both Ito Clans were eventually unified and became a strong warlord based in Sadowara Castle. During the Sengoku Period between the 15th and 16th Centuries, the clan often fought against the Shimazu Clan from the south over Hyuga Province. The lord of the clan at that time, Yoshisuke Ito was so aggressive that he was able to capture Obi Castle, a major one in the southern Hyuga Province in 1569. He was just at his peak, having owned 48 castles in the province, in which Sadowara Castle was at the top. Its castle town prospered like the provincial capital and it was called Little Kyoto in Kyushu.

The portrait of Yoshisuke Ito, from the Sakai City History Volume 1 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Obi Castle

Sadowara Castle is basically considered one of the Southern Kyushu type castles which were built on the Shirasu Plateau looking like a mountain or a hill in the area. The plateau has been made from volcanic ash caused by ancient eruptions. Its soil is fragile and can easily collapse to form cliffs. Warriors in the area often used this nature to build their castles because it was easy for them to process natural terrain for strong defensive systems. For example, they built deep dry moats, high walls under enclosures, and narrow defensive gates by cutting the soil. Some popular examples of them were Chiran, Obi and Sadowara Castles.

The Main Route of Sadowara Castle
The dry moat of Chiran Castle (licensed by PIXTA)

Castle is captured by Shimazu Clan due to Collapse of Ito

Yoshisuke Ito’s glory didn’t last long, however. He was losing the Ito 48 Castles one by one, triggered by the lost of the Battle of Kizakihara against the Shimazu Clan in 1573. The Shimazu’s force and the Ito’s deterioration also made his retainers alienate him more and more. He wondered if he could be besieged in Sadowara Castle, but the situation didn’t allow him to do so, but he was forced to leave the castle. He escaped from Hyuga Province with his family and few vassals to Bungo Province in the north, where his ally, Sorin Otomo governed. This was called the Collapse of Ito. They had finally lost all that they had and eventually became wanderers. Yoshisuke died while drifting in 1585 before his son, Suketake returned to Obi Castle in Hyuga Province in 1588 by serving his new master, the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi.

The portrait of Sorin Otomo, owned by Zuihoin (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Suketake Ito, owned by the board of education of Nichinan City (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Sadowara Castle was eventually owned by the Shimazu Clan. The clan might have improved the castle by building the Main Tower on the top, but It has not been confirmed yet. The Main Tower is said to be the one which was located in the southernmost place in Japan. After the lord of the castle, Toyohisa Shimazu was killed in the battle of Sekigahara in 1600, the castle was followed by the Tokugawa Shogunate and Mochihisa Shimazu whose successors governed it until the end of the Edo Period as the Sadowara Domain. Mochihisa’s son, Tadaoki abandoned the castle on the mountain and moved it to the foot where the Main Hall was built. This was because maintaining the castle on the Shirasu Plateau was too difficult and the hall on the plain land was convenient for the government during the peaceful Edo Period.

The ruins of the Main Tower base of Sadowara Castle
The portrait of Mochihisa Shimazu, from the database of Historiographical Institute The University of Tokyo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The restored Main Hall at the foot as an historical museum

To be continued in “Sadowara Castle Part2”

198.Chiran Castle Part3

Very impressive castle to me

Features

Stronger Defense of Main Enclosure

The group of the Main and Kuranjo Enclosures on the right are even more defensive. If you want to go there, you will find the group has two tiers. You will need to pass the first Masugata entrance and reach the first tier before going to the two tops of these enclosures. Each enclosure also has the same defense system as the Imanjo Enclosure mentioned above, which meant enemies had to break the double Masugata entrances.

The layout drawing of Chiran Castle, quoted by Minami-Kyushu City, the route to the Main and Imanjo Enclosures (the red arrows)

The inside of the Main Enclosure is also empty where only the stone monument of the castle stands. The Kuranjo Enclosure is the place where the excavation for the castle was mainly done recently. The excavation team found earthen foundations of some buildings and lots of relics such as pottery and porcelain imported from China and Thailand, and used when the castle was active. That’s why partially restored columns of the buildings are exhibited on the ground there. Unfortunately, views from the enclosures are not good because of the trees and bushes around. It may be difficult for the officials to develop them as a view spot due to the fragile natural terrain.

The inside of the Main Enclosure  (licensed by Mizushimasea via Wikimedia Commons)
The inside of Kuranjo Enclosure, quoted from the website of Minami-Kyushu City
Some of the excavated relics of Chinese ceramic-ware, from the signboard at the site

Later History

During World War II, Chiran Castle Ruins were used for air-raid shelters by digging into their cliffs. As for the castle ruins, the excavation started in 1992, which found the original moats, the Masugata entrances, some building foundations, and lots of relics. As a result, the ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1993. In addition, the excavation re-started again in 1998 before the Kuranjo Enclosure was developed for preservation and exhibition in 2005.

The signboard at the entrance of the castle ruins

My Impression

I didn’t know about Chiran Castle at all before my visit to the ruins. I was really surprised to see that the castle had been built using the special conditions the area had. I think this is one of ancestors’ wisdom we should respect. This is also one of the reasons that I love visiting castles and ruins. In addition, I have actually deleted all my photos of the ruins in my camera accidentally except for few ones in my smartphone. I usually write my castle-visiting articles based on my photos. However, this time, I managed to write my article of Chiran Castle using my strong impressions from some books, leaflets and other website articles.

The ruins of Chiran Castle
The ruins of Sadowara Castle, another example of castles which were built on the Shirasu Plateau

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about a 20 minute drive away from Chiran IC on the Ibusuki Sky Line. There is a parking lot around the ruins’ entrance.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Kagoshima Kotsu Bus bound for Chiran at the East No.16 platform in front of Kagoshima-chuo Station and get off at the Nakagori bus stop (for those who visit the ruins from the Chiran Samurai Residences side) or the Tokko-Kannnon-Iriguchi bus stop (for visiting them from the former Chiran Airport side). It takes about 20 minutes on foot to get there either form these bus stops.
From Fukuoka to Kagoshima-chuo Station: Take the Kyushu Shinkansen super express.
From Tokyo to Kagoshima-chuo Station: Take the express bus from Kagoshima Airport after using a plane.

The parking lot at the castle ruins
The Nakagori bus stop

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Chiran Castle Part1”
Back to “Chiran Castle Part2”

198.Chiran Castle Part2

You can experience a castle on the Shirasu Plateau.

Features

Walking down to Maintain Castle

Today, the ruins of Chiran Castle are accessible either from the Chiran Samurai Residences side at the foot the plateau or from the former Chiran Airport (where Chiran Peace Museum for Kamikaze Pilots is located) side on the plateau. If you choose the latter route, you may get an interesting experience.

The map around the castle, the blue broken line is the route from Chiran Samurai Residences to the castle, and the red broken line is the route from the former Chiran Airport to the castle

When you want to go to a mountain (or hill) castle, you will usually go up or at least go on flat ground close to the castle. However, in the case of the route from the plateau to Chiran Castle, you will go down towards the castle and eventually reach the bottom of the deep dry moats. This is because of the special location and the construction method of this castle on the edge of the plateau. You will also look up at the tall enclosures looking like mountains from the ruins’ entrance which is actually the moat’s bottom.

Chiran Peace Museum for Kamikaze Pilots
The route goes down from around there
The route is going down
Arriving at the past bottom of the moat, the plateau in on the right
The enclosures on the plateau look very tall

Walking on Bottom of Deep Dry Moat

The dry moat is still about 20m deep which was filled in naturally by the collapsing volcanic ash since the period of the castle being active. Visitors first need to walk on the bottom of the moat which was also used as a path in the past. If you walk on the bottom from the entrance, two of the four primary enclosures, the Main and Kuranjo Enclosures are on the right, and the other two enclosures, Imanjo and Yunbajo Enclosures are on the left, as the signposts at the site show.

The map around the castle including the four primary enclosures

The bottom of the dry moat (licensed by PIXTA)
the signpost for Imanjo and Yunbajo Enclosures at the site (licensed by PIXTA)

Protected Route to Enclosure

For example, if you want to go to the Imanjo Enclosure, you need to turn left and go up the path to it. However, the path doesn’t go directly to its entrance. Attackers first need to reach the wall of the enclosure and go along the side to reach it. That means the defenders of the castle would attack enemies from above before they reach the entrance. The entrance also had the defensive Masugata system. The inside of the enclosure is a flat square which has no buildings now, but you can see the earthen square shape of Masugata and earthen walls around.

The layout drawing of Chiran Castle, quoted by Minami-Kyushu City, the route to Imanjo Enclosure (the red arrow) and the counterattack from the enclosure (the blue arrow)

To be continued in “Chiran Castle Part3”
Back to “Chiran Castle Part1”