66.Tsuwano Castle Part2

Spectacular stone walls remaining on the mountain.

Features

Going Castle Ruins through former Castle Town

Today, visiting Tsuwano Town including Tsuwano Castle Ruins is exciting for many visitors. As you get close to the town by car or train, you will see many houses with reddish brown colored roof tiles called Sekishu Rooftiles on them, which can be used to protect people from a cold climate. You will also see the spectacular stone walls on the mountain beside the town, which are a good contrast with the color of the town.

A view from the train window

The entrance of the ruins at the foot of the mountain is about 1.5km away from Tsuwano Station if you come by train. Even if you also walk from the station to the ruins, it can be another good tour going through the former castle town. The area around the entrance is where the Main Hall for the lord was built. The hall building was turned into Tsuwano High School and the garden for the hall was turned into a square. Two turrets for the hall are remaining as Babasaki or the Near Riding Ground and Monomi or the Lookout Turrets.

The relief map around the castle

Tsuwano High School
The former garden for the Main Hall, called Kiraku-en
The remaining Near Riding Ground Turret
The remaining Lookout Turret

Going to Center of Ruins through Barbican Enclosure

The top of the mountain is about 200m above from the foot, so it would be efficient for visitors to use a lift operated by Tsuwano Town. The lift will take you to the top in few minutes while seeing the steep terrain and the trail for climbing.

The lift going to the top
You can see the trail for hikers

You can walk from the lift platform to the ruins on the trail of the top. You will first arrive at Demaru or the Barbican Enclosure which was used as a lookout, little far from the canter of the castle. There are only remaining stone walls now, but where you can see a great view of the area around. You will next walk to the center on the temporary path probably because the original trail is dangerous or under excavation.

The aerial photo around the castle

Going to the ruins from the lift platform
The entrance of the Barbican Enclosure
The inside of the Barbican Enclosure
A view from the Barbican Enclosure
The temporary path to the center

People manage to maintain Stone Walls

You will see the center is still surrounded by the spectacular stone walls but without buildings. Part of them collapsed being covered with sheets to avoid further damage. This was due to the North Yamaguchi Earthquake and the following heavy rain in 1997.

The map around the castle

Going to the Eastern Gate Ruins
The partially collapsed stone walls

Visitors usually enter the Eastern Gate Ruins also using the temporary steps. You can see the three-tier stone walls on the right, which was used for the Three-Tier Turret in the past. The lower tier is covered by a net to prevent it from collapsing. The other tiers were re-plied in 1972. People in Tsuwano still struggle maintaining these stone walls.

The temporary steps
The three-tier stone walls

Third Enclosure surrounding Top

The Third Enclosure has other gate ruins on the west and south, surrounding the top of the castle like a belt. If you go to the Western Turret Gate Ruins, you can see unaccountable broken pieces of Sekishu Rooftiles which probably came from the original gate building. Please make sure you don’t take them away from the original positions as they are all included to a National Historic Site.

The Western Turret Gate Ruins
The unaccountable broken pieces of Sekishu Rooftiles

The Southern Turret Gate Ruins are at the edge of a ridge just above a steep cliff. You may be thrilled if you are standing by the edge. The stone walls of the ruins are the oldest in the castle which Naomori Sakazaki originally built.

Going to the Southern Turret Gate Ruins
The Southern Turret Gate Ruins
These stone walls are the oldest in the castle
There is a steep cliff below the gate ruins
A view from the gate ruins

If you look back from the Southern Turret Gate Ruins, you can see the stone wall base for Hitojichi or the Hostage Turret. They are the highest stone walls in the castle and their corner curve lines are beautiful. However, if the turret was really used to hold hostages like its name suggests, they could not escape from it, as the stone walls are isolated.

A view when you look back from the Southern Turret Gate Ruins
The stone wall base for the Hostage Turret
The base looks beautiful

To be continued in “Tsuwano Castle Part3”
Back to “Tsuwano Castle Part1”

129.Tatsuoka Castle Part2

The five star pointed shape is still remaining.

Features

Castle Ruins are used as School

Today, the ruins of Tatsuoka Castle are used as the Taguchi Primary School, which are still surrounded by the five pointed star shaped perimeter. Local people often called them “Tatsuoka Goryokaku (which means Pentagonal Style Fort)”. They are also famous for cherry blossoms. Because of the current usage, the facilities for visitors, such as the information center called “Goryokaku deai-no-yakata”, are located outside of the ruins.

The aerial photo around the castle

The information center

Visitors usually go to the Main Gate Ruins first which have the most precise stone walls in the castle, such as the Tortoise Shell and Hanedashi styles. The restored wooden bridge is over the water moat, where you can feel a traditional atmosphere. There are also two other gate ruins you can pass, one is Kuro-mon and the other is the side gate.

The Main Gate Ruins
The stone walls of the Main Gate
The water moats and stone walls around the Main Gate
The side gate

Walking around Castle Ruins

You can easily walk around the perimeter of the ruins because they are not so large. You will see the moats expire and the stone walls look rough as you go to the back. This is because the construction of the castle, in fact, ended halfway through due to the lack of budget or because of another priority. Please make sure that you don’t walk across the route around the ruins because it is private property.

The stone walls in the back side
There is private property ahead

Only one remaining building

You can also enter the inside of the ruins except for the facilities and playground of the school. If you look around the inside, you will see the five pointed star shape is basically made out of soil. There is the only one remaining building in the castle, called the Kitchen House. It was originally used as part of the Main Hall, then turned int o a school house, a warehouse, and finally moved to the current position as a historical item. Only group tours which has a previous booking can enter this building. Therefore if you want to see it you have to be part of a group.

The inside of the castle ruins
The ruins are surrounded by the earthen walls inside
The remaining Kitchen House

View of Castle Ruins from Observation Platform

Tatsuoka Castle was designed flat, so today’s visitors might not be able to grasp its shape. Therefore, I recommend you consider visiting the Goryokaku observation platform, located on a mountain in the northside, about 500m away from the ruins. In fact, that spot is the ruins of another castle called Taguchi Castle in the Sengoku Period, where you can see several enclosures made of soil.

The relief map around the castle

The Goryokaku observation platform
The ruins of Taguchi Castle

Of course, you can also see a nice view of the five pointed star shape clearly. This has probably been the best spot to overlook the area around. You could easily target Tatsuoka Castle if you were an artillery man attacking the castle during the end of the Edo Period.

A view of Tatsuoka Castle Ruins from the observation platform
The area around the Main Gate Ruins
The Kitchen House

To be continued in “Tatsuoka Castle Part3”
Back to “Tatsuoka Castle Part1”

2.Goryokaku Part3

If the Benten Cape Battery remained…

Features

Goryokaku Tower

Apart from the ruins themselves, you should consider visiting Goryokaku Tower, a 107m tall observation platform built exclusively for viewing Goryokaku. Goryokaku was designed flat to prevent enemies’ canons from targeting anything, so today’s visitors might not be able to grasp its shape. If you go up in the elevator of the tower to its observation room at 90m high, you will enjoy a great view of the star shaped fort.

Goryokaku Tower
The miniature model of Goryokaku, exhibited in the tower
A view of Goryokaku from the observation room
Hakodate Mountain and the city area can also be seen from the observation room

Ruins of Square Style Fort

Another attraction related to Goryokaku is the ruins of Shiryokaku, the Square Style Fort, about 5km away from Goryokaku in the northeast. It is much smaller than Goryokaku, so you can see its unique structure once you arrive at the ruins.

The aerial photo around the castle

The entrance of the Square Style Fort Ruins
You can see the square shape when standing at the edge
The edge seemed to have a cannon

Later History

After the Battle of Hakodate ended, almost all the buildings of Goryokaku were demolished. The Imperial Japanese Army owned the ruins to use as a parade ground during the Meiji Era. In addition, the water in the moats was used to make ice blocks called Hakodate Ice between 1870 and 1953. This was because the water had been led from Kameda River and was clean since the foundation of Goryokaku. In 1913 during the Taisho Era, Hakodate City asked the Minister of the Army to open the ruins as a park, which was accepted in the next year.

The water moat was used to make ice blocks
Looking outside from the edge of a bastion

My Impression

I regret that there are no ruins of the Benten Cape Battery at all. It was completely scrapped and its stone materials were reused for the improvement of Hakodate Port in 1899. Only the signpost stands now where the battery was. If only a little of it remained like Shinagawa Batteries in Tokyo Bay, people could easily understand the sharing of roles between it and Goryokaku. Anyway, I hope Goryokaku will keep its unique position in the Japanese history with its unique style among Japanese castles.

The ruins of the Benten Cape Battery
The monument of the improvement of Hakodate Port
The stone materials from the Benten Cape Battery must hove been used somewhere in the port

How to get There

If you want to visit the ruins by car, It is about a 20-minute drive away from Hakodate Airport or the center of Hakodate City. From Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station, it takes about 40 minutes to get there. There is a parking lot for visitors beside the park.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Tram Hakodate bound for Yunokawa from Hakodate Station and get off at the Goryokaku-koen-mae stop. It takes about 15 minutes on foot from the stop to get there.
To get to Hakodate Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Hokkaido Shinkansen super express at Tokyo Station and transfer to the Hakodate Line at Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station.

Links and References

Official Website of Goryokaku Tower

That’s all. Thank you.
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