Satonari Gamo – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

105.Shiroishi Castle Part1

Each independent lord was not allowed to have castles, excluding the only one the lord lived in, by the shogunate. However, Shiroishi Castle, where the Katakura Clan as a retainer lived in, remained as an exemption. This was probably due to Date’s strong influence as well as Katakura’s contributions.

Location and History

Castle owned by Katakura Clan, Senior Vassal of Date Clan

Shiroishi Castle is located in modern day Shiroishi City at the southern edge of Miyagi Prefecture. It was also located in the southern edge of the Date Clan’s territory during the Edo Period. The lords of the clan had the area around the castle being governed by their trusted senior vassal family, the Katakura Clan all through the period. The castle had a three level turret called the Large Turret which was actually equivalent to the Main Tower. That’s why the castle looked like a symbol of an independent lord.

The range of MIyagi Prefecture, the range of the Sendai Domain was larger than the prefecture

The restored Main Tower of Matsumoto Castle

The founder of the Katakura Clan, Kagetsuna Katakura served his master, Masamune Date from his childhood because Kagetsuna’s older sister, Kita became Masamune’s foster mother. Since then, Kagetsuna contributed to Masamune becoming the greatest warlord in the Tohoku Region during the late 16th Century by joining many battles and being a diplomatic agent with other warlords. When the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi invaded the Kanto Region to complete his unification of Japan in 1590, Masamune was wondering if he should follow Hideyoshi or not. Kagetsuna advised Masamune to do so, and as a result, they were able to survive. Masamune eventually gave Kagetsuna the important Shiroishi area in 1602 after the Date Clan’s territory was fixed as the Sendai Domain by the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The portrait of Kagetsuna Katakura, owned by Sendai City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The portrait of Masamune Date, owned by Sendai City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Kagetsuna’s son, Shigenaga was very active in the summer campaign of the Siege of Osaka in 1615 where the shogunate defeated the Toyotomi Clan. There is a heroic story about him and his rival, Nobushige Sanada. They once fought each other in the battle, but Nobushige sent a letter (affixed to an arrow) to Shigenaga, which asked him to accommodate Nobushige’s children before his death. Kagetsuna accepted it, and then, Oume, Nobushige’s daughter would be Shigenaga’s second wife and another son, Daihachi would be a retainer of the Sendai Domain. One theory seems to be that Shigenaga took Oume away from Osaka Castle when it was falling and accommodated the other children when they later visited her in Shiroishi Castle. In either case, Shigenaga must have been a man of great capacity.

The portrait of Shigenaga Katakura, drawn in a Ukiyoe-painting, attributed to Yoshiiku Ochiai (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The summer campaign of the siege of Osaka folding screens, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The portrait of Nobushige Sanada, owned by Ueda City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle survives as exemption of One Castle per Province

Shigenaga’s successor, Kagenaga was also important for the domain. When an internal trouble of the Date Clan, called Date-sodo (feud), happened in 1671, the government of the domain got out of control due to a bloody affair at the shogunate court in Edo. Kagenaga stayed local to keep other retainers calm and kept the government. These events were decisive for the position of the Katakura Clan. In addition, each independent lord was not allowed to have castles, excluding the only one the lord lived in, by the shogunate. However, Shiroishi Castle, where the Katakura Clan as a retainer lived in, remained as an exemption. This was probably due to Date’s strong influence as well as Katakura’s contributions.

The ruins of Sendai Castle, the home of the Date Clan

Castle is completed by Gamo and Katakura Clans

As for Shiroishi Castle itself, it is uncertain when it was first built, but it was considered an important strategic location for transportation. After the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, Satonari Gamo, a senior vassal of the clan owned and modernized the castle by building stone walls and the Main Tower. He would later improve several other castles like Kasama Castle, which can be seen as a hidden master of castle constructions. The Katakura Clan lived and improved the castle more based on the essential structures Satonari built.

The castle had several enclosures on a hill. The Main Enclosure on the top had the main buildings of the castle, such as the three-level Main Tower, Main Gate, Back Gate, Main Hall, and two two-level turrets. They were exactly the same items as what other independent lords had. However, the Main Hall also had an interesting feature. The hall had two front entrances, one for locals and the other only for the lord of the Date Clan, the master of the Katakura Clan. The hall also had the rooms, called Onari-goten, where only the lord could stay.

The miniature model of Kasama Castle, exhibited by Shiroishi Castle History Museum

The miniature model of the main enclosure of Shiroishi Castle

The part of the Main Hall in the miniature model above, the entrance for the locals is marked by the blue circle and that only for the lord of the domain is marked by the red circle

The Katakura Clan also developed the castle town below the hill, where the retainers and other citizens lived in. Waterways were also developed in the town for defensive purposes and living. For example, there were Samurai residences in the Third Enclosure, part of the town, which was surrounded by the Sawabata River and the waterways. The residences were relatively smaller than other residences of independent domains. This was because the retainers under the Katakura Clan had lower incomes than those who served independent lords.

Part of the Illustration of Shiroishi Castle in the Sendai Domain, Oshu Region, the third enclosure along the Sawabata River is in the front, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

The remaining Samurai residence along the Sawabata River

One of stages of Meiji Restoration

In 1868 during the Meiji Restoration, an important event happened to the castle again. Many domains against the New Government in the Tohoku Region held the Shiroishi Meeting in the castle. This was because the Sendai Domain was their leader and the castle could also be a hub for them. This event would be the trigger for the Boshin War between the government and the domains. However, the castle was eventually opened as its real master, the Sendai Domain had surrendered to the government.

To be continued in “Shiroishi Castle Part2”

112.Kasama Castle Part3

Due to the damage from the Great East Japan Earthquake back in 2011, it is prohibited to enter the top of the ruins as of November 2023. The city is considering how to repair it to open it to the public again.

Features

Main and Main Tower Enclosures as Center of Castle

The Main Enclosure is an empty space now, where the Main Hall was built in the past. Instead, long and high earthen walls at the southwestern side stands out, which are called Hachiman-dai(base). There was Hachiman-dai Turret on it as a lookout tower or a warehouse. The turret was moved to Shinjoji Temple at the foot after the castle was abandoned, which is consider the only remaining building of the castle. The view from the base or the enclosure is not so good because of the trees surrounding, but you can see the mountains or hills around.

The map of the main portion of the castle

The turret was moved from the original position to the temple

The final place of the castle is the Main Tower Enclosure on the top over the edge of the earthen wall base to the northeast. You can go on the narrow earthen bridge over the ditch in front of the enclosure and reach the foot of the three-tier stone walls of it. The original Main Tower, which had been built on it, was replaced with the Sashino Shrine building during the Meiji Era. It was said that the waste materials of the tower were used for the construction of the shrine. The stone walls seem to partially use large natural rocks, which look rough and wild. However, visitors are unfortunately not allowed to climb the walls to see the top because the walls might collapse as of November 2023. You can only see a glimpse of the shrine building on the stone walls from the foot.

The earthen bridge in front of the Main Tower Enclosure

The stone walls of the enclosure partially collapsed

Returning to Foot by taking another route

You can return to the parking lot at the foot of the mountain going the same way as you took, but there is another route you can try as well but it’s challenging. You can take a trail on the ridge over the earthen wall base opposite the Main Tower Enclosure. The ridge was a defensive point of the castle, where another turret, called Anagasaki Yagura, was built. If you climb down on the trail for a while, the return route goes the bottom of a deep dry moat. This is part of the outer dry moat surrounding the whole castle area, which Satonari Gamo built. You can feel how large it was by walking through it.

The map around the castle

You will finally arrive at the ruins of the suburban residences at the foot, which Naganao Asano built. They have become the Sashiro Sanroku(foot of the mountain) Park which has the Bell Tower including an old bell made at the end of the Edo Period. The parking lot as is your starting point just below the park.

The ruins of the suburban residences (Sashiro Sanroku Park)

You can see the parking lot at the foot below

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Kasama Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished or moved like the Hachiman-dai Turret. The mountain area became part of Kasama Prefectural Natural Park and the foot area became the Sashiro Sanroku Park. Kasama City has been researching the castle ruins since 2013 to preserve and to be designated as a national or other historical site in the near future. However, due to the damage from the Great East Japan Earthquake back in 2011, it is prohibited to enter the top of the ruins. The city is also considering how to repair it to open it to the public again.

It looks like just being placed on the newer base

My Impression

There are many attractions of Kasama Castle and the city. In my cases, once I visited and learned about the castle, I wanted to go there again to try seeing what I had missed or other ways to visit. When I first visited the ruins, I got to the great stone walls on top but they partially collapsed. In my recent visit, they were finally covered with sheets and kept out for visitors. I was very sorry about it and hope it will be repaired to open to the public soon.

The Sashino Shrine building on the enclosure as of 2019

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about a 20-minute drive away from Tomobe IC on the Kitakanto Expressway.
There are parking lots at foot and the mid slope of the mountain as mentioned above.
By public transportation, you can take the sightseeing tour bus from JR Tomobe Station and get off at the Nichido-bijutsukan bus stop near the park.
From Tokyo to Tomobe Station: take the Tokiwa limited express from Tokyo or Ueno Stations.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Kasama Castle Part1”
Back to “Kasama Castle Part2”

112.Kasama Castle Part1

Kasama is a local city, located in the central part of Ibaraki Prefecture and the northeastern part of the Kanto Region. It is known for Kasama Inari Shrine and Kasama Pottery, which attract many visitors. However, they became popular after the emergence of Kasama Castle.

Location and History

Tokitomo Kasama, Mysterious General builds Castle

Kasama Castle[/leaflet-marker]

It is uncertain how the castle was first built. The only record available is called Kasamajo-ki (meaning the Record of Kasama Castle), later written during the Edo Period. According to the record, the castle was first built in 1219 during the Kamakura Period by Tokitomo Kasama who was a relative of the Utsunomiya Clan, one of the most powerful clans in the region. There was the Shofukuji Temple on Sashiro-yama Mountain where Kasama Castle would be built. The temple prospered on the mountain with the One Hundred Quarters and had many monk soldiers to protect it. A fight broke out with a rival temple called Tokuzoji Temple and they were outnumbered, so it asked the Utsunomiya Clan for help. Tokitomo was sent by the clan and defeated the Tokuzoji Temple. He even banished the Shotokuji Temple from the mountain and built the Kasama Castle.

The current Shofukuji Temple at the foot of the mountain

The signpost of the One Hundred Quarters Ruins

However, historians say, using fragments from other records, Tokitomo might have actually not been so radical. He was not only a warrior but also a medium class noble which other warriors rarely became. He was also highly educated and famous as a poet. There are also several remaining Buddha statues and sutras he donated to temples, which proved he was rich and religious. Overall, Tokitomo might have built the castle in a more coordinated manner. As a result, the Kasama Clan governed the castle and the area around for over 300 years until the Sengoku Period. The castle was thought to be a simple mountain castle, made of soil.

The Buddha statue Tokitomo donated to a local temple called Ishidera, quoted from the Kasama City Website

Rengeoin Temple at Kyoto where Tokitomo donated two other Buddha statues *(licensed by Akonnchiroll via Wikimedia Commons)*

Satonari Gamo renovates Castle

The situation changed in the end of the 16th Century during the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi. The Kasama Clan declined and the Utsunomiya Clan was fired by Hideyoshi. Kasama Castle was followed by Satonari Gamo, a senior vassal of the Gamo Clan in 1598. The Gamo Clan served Hideyoshi for a long time and became one of the greatest lords in Japan. The clan also built or improved many castles like Matsusaka and Wakamatsu by building advanced items, such as high stone walls and Main Towers. The lord of the clan, Hideyuki Gamo lived in Utsunomiya Castle and one of his branch castles was Kasama Castle. Satonari improved Kasama Castle using the techniques and resources that the clan used. The Main Tower was built on the top of mountain with three-tier stone walls, called the Main Tower Enclosure. The Main and Second Enclosures were developed below the top and the route from the Main Gate to the top through these enclosures was built. Other stone walls were constructed along the route and each gate and enclosure was protected by an altered entrance or the Masugata system which refers to a square defensive space in the gate. The lord of the castle lived in the Main Hall in the Main Enclosure which also had several other turrets.

The miniature model of Kasama Castle, exhibited by Kasama History Exchange Center “Izutsuya”

Satonari developed Kasama Castle more in 1600 during a decisive battle when all the lords of Japan joined the Eastern Alliance or the Western Alliance. He joined the Eastern Alliance while the Satake Clan at Mito Castle in the neighboring area to the east of Kasama joined the Western Alliance. That’s why he needed to prepare to avoid the Satake Clan from invading. It is thought that Satonari built forts on three hills around the mountain and deep dry moats surrounding all the castle and the forts. The Eastern Alliance, which would be the Tokugawa Shogunate, finally won after nothing happened to Kasama Castle fortunately.

The dry moats surrounding the castle are put on the miniature model above as well

Other Clans like Asano and Makino follow Castle

The shogunate transferred the Gamo Clan to another in 1601. Since then, Kasama Castle and the area around it were considered as the Kasama Domain, but the lord’s clan changed 8 times. A major event for the castle happened when the Asano Clan governed the domain between 1622 and 1645. The second lord, Naganao Asano built suburban residences, in fact a new Main Hall, at the foot of the mountain, for the convenience of the government. An episode about it was that the residences were very large and surrounded by earthen walls and white mud walls, which looked like a new castle that the shogunate banned from being built. Naganao conveted the mud walls to hedge fences to hide and not to make it look like a castle before the shogunate heard about it. He was transferred to Ako Castle in 1645 and renovated it, so he seemed to like castle constructions. His grandchild was Naganori Asano who would cause the Ako Incident which is one of the most popular events of Japanese history.

*The portrait of Naganao Asano, owned by Kagakuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)*

The last clan to rule the Kasama Domain was the Makino Clan between 1747 and 1871, the longest and most stable period among the others. The Kasama Pottery started to be made and developed with the help from the domain during this period. In addition, the Kasama Inari Shrine also became popular during the Edo Period, which was visited by several clans governing the domain.

Part of the Illustration of Kasama Castle in Hitachi Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

Kasama Potteries in the Kasama Pottery Cooperative Selling Center

The Worship Hall of Kasama Inari Shrine *(licensed by On-chan via Wikimedia Commons)*

To be continued in “Kasama Castle Part2”