Sugiyama castle – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

140.Genbao Castle Part3

The ruins were discovered after 400-year sleep.

Features

Largest Enclosure in back

If you want to go out of the Main Enclosure from the back entrance, you will need to turn left and right on the narrow route through the other Umadashi Enclosure like the front side. This means the back side of the castle was also protected heavily. The Enclosure II is at the very back and was the largest of the Castle. Therefore, Historians speculate it was used as a military post. On the other hand, the entrance of the enclosure to the outside is very simple and had no defensive capability. Historians also speculate this part had been uncompleted before the Battle of Shizugatake happened.

The map around the castle

The narrow earthen bridge connecting the Main Enclosure and the Enclosure ii

the entrance of the Enclosure II to the outside

Later History

Genbao Castle was eventually abandoned after Katsuie was defeated in 1583. The ruins of it were buried naturally and returned to nature covered with trees and bushes for over 400 years. However, a local historian discovered the ruins after his research based on some records and traditions in 1980. The ruins were finally designated as a National Historic Site in 1999. The ruins are now considered as very rare ones which clearly shows the who, the when and the why the castle was built. Historians can see that the techniques used in the castle were those used in the period when the Battle of Shizugatake happened.

My Impression

I was surprised to see such a complex structured castle was built on the top of a mountain. I was also convinced to learn the reason for why it was built. I remember that there is another complex structured castle ruins made of pure soil the same as Genbao, called Suginaya Castle in Saitama Prefecture. However, unlike Genbao, it is quite uncertain the who, the when and the why it was built. Some historians think Sugiyama Castle was built in the same period as Genbao Castle because they are similar. On the other hand, others argue that they are, in fact, different in some ways. Either way, it is also an interesting discussion.

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the castle ruins.
It is about a 20-minute drive away from Kinomoto IC on the Hokuriku Expressway. There is a parking lot beside the entrance of the trail to the castle ruins.
After getting off from the IC, go along the National Route 365 to the north, turn right to the Prefectural Road 140 at the junction, and go through the Yanagase Tunnel. This tunnel had originally been used for the former Hokuriku Railway Line until 1964 and turned into the current road. Make sure that it is a one-way traffic which is controlled by the traffic light. Just after coming out of the tunnel, turn right to the forest road to the parking lot.
If you drive from the north of the ruins, such as Fukui Prefecture, go along the National Route 8 to the south, turn left to the Prefectural Road 140 at the junction, and turn left to the forest road in front of the Yanagase Tunnel.

The parking lot beside the entrance of the trail

The Yanagase Tunnel *(licensed by Alpsdake via Wikimedia Commons)*

The northern starting point of the Prefectural Road 140

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Genbao Castle Part1”
Back to “Genbao Castle Part2”

119.Sugiyama Castle Part3

Castle layout researchers focus on Sugiyama Castle.

Features

Main Enclosure, Center of Castle

The Main Enclosure is the largest and highest one in the castle. It has three entrances in the south, north and east. The north and east ones were also strictly protected by other enclosures and dry moats like you simulated in the south. The lord of the castle would be able examine the situation in all directions clearly and give the appropriate instructions.

The locations of the Main Enclosure and the northern and eastern enclosures

The Northern Entrance of the Main Enclosure

*The Eastern Entrance of the Main Enclosure*

The eastern enclosures seen from the Main Enclosure

In addition, some bypass routes are set in the castle, but some of them are dead-end alleys. If you see the layout of the castle, you may think it looks like a maze. It’s true for enemies, but it’s a well-designed fortress for defenders.

The locations of the spots which are supposed be dead-end alleys

The dead-end alley at the Southern Second Enclosure

The dead-end alley beyond the Well Enclosure

Later History

The ruins of Sugiyama Castle were not known to the public until around 1980s. Only the researchers who studied the layout of castles were interested in this castle. They published the dictionaries and magazines which featured the layout of castles since 1987. The layout drawing of Sugiyama Castle has been one of the most featured ones in these books. The castle became popular little by little. After the excavations between 2002 and 2007, the ruins became a National Historic Site in 2008. It is considered one of the “Hiki Castles Ruins”.

This location map is also a good layout drawing

My Impression

I imagine if Sugiyama Castle was much larger, and equipped with turrets, gates, and stone walls, it would look like the great castles built much later, such as Himeji Castle. This means Sugiyama Castle could be the pioneer of the advanced castle design. However, I rather prefer the effort of building the castle to its historical value. The unknown builders of the castle must have had a small budget, resources, workers, and little time because the purpose of the castle was limited. They thought hard to create their great work under the difficult situation. It may have been easier for them to build a great castle if they had enough resources. I think Sugiyama Castle is also a good lesson for us about how to use limited resources to create good work.

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the ruins.
It is about 15 minutes away from Ranzan-Ogawa IC on Kanetsu Expressway.
The ruins offer a parking lot.
By public transportation, take the Tokigawa-cho route bus bound for Seseragi Center from Musashi-Ranzan Station on the Tobu-Tojo Line and get off at the Taguro bus stop.
It is about 20 minutes on foot from the bus stop.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Sugiyama Castle Part1”
Back to “Sugiyama Castle Part2”

119.Sugiyama Castle Part2

Let us simulate attacking the castle.

Features

Simulation of Attack from Main Entrance to Main Enclosure

Today, the ruins of Sugiyama Castle are well-developed and maintained for visitors as a historic site. The ruins were once covered with a lot of trees and bushes, but most of them were removed. That means you can see the soil-made layout of the castle clearly. Let us simulate attacking the castle as an enemy.

For example, if you approach the castle ruins from the south, you will first stand at the Main Entrance or Oteguchi as the starting point. In fact, you will need to pass through five enclosures to reach the Main Enclosure.

The enclosures between the Main Entrance and the Main Enclosure with numbering, from the location map adding the red colored letters

From Outer Entrance to Umadashi and Southern Third Enclosures

To enter the first enclosure called the Outer Enclosure, you will have to turn left in front of its entrance. Defenders could make a flanking attack on your left side before you turn.

The route to entrance seen from the Outer Enclosure

The route to the Outer Enclosure (the red arrow) and the counterattack from the enclosure (the blue arrow)

After entering the Outer Enclosure, the second one is the Umadashi Enclosure. You will need to go over the dry moat to get to the Umadashi Enclosure. A wooden bridge might have been built on it, but it would have been fallen if a battle occurred. When you cross the dry moat, you would be attacked on your right side from the L-shaped earthen walls of the Southern Third Enclosure.

The dry moat in front of the Umadashi Enclosure

The L-shaped earthen walls of the Southern Third Enclosure

The Southern Third Enclosure seen from the dry moat

The dry moat seen from the Southern Third Enclosure

The route to the Umadashi Enclosure (the red arrow) and the counterattack from the Southern Third Enclosure (the blue arrow)

The Umadashi Enclosure is a small sticking out space from the entrance of the Southern Third Enclosure. The other L-shaped earthen walls of the Southern Third Enclosure also make it possible to defeat the enemy in this area of the castle.

The Umadashi Enclosure and the L-shaped earthen walls seen from the Southern Third Enclosure

The L-shaped earthen walls are nearby on the left if you stand at the entrance of the Southern Third Enclosure

The route to the Southern Third Enclosure (the red arrow) and the counterattack from the Enclosure (the blue arrow)

Strong Defense of Main Enclosure

After that, if you somehow reach the Southern Second Enclosure after the Southern Third Enclosure, you will see the high earthen walls of the Main Enclosure. However, there is no direct route to the Main Enclosure, so you will have to move to the Well Enclosure on the left. (Its enclosure is guarded in a similar way to other enclosures.)

The high earthen walls of the Mani Enclosure seen from the Southern Second Enclosure

The dry moat between the Main Enclosure and the Southern Second Enclosure seen from the Well Enclosure

The routes to the Southern Second and Well Enclosures (the red arrow) and the counterattack from the Enclosures (the blue arrow)

The Well Enclosure leads to the Main Enclosure, which was connected by the wooden bridge over the dry moat. However, you could be counterattacked from the front and from your left side from the Main Enclosure above. The earthen walls of the Main Enclosure are shaped to surround the attacker. Overall, you could suffer damages from the frank attacks as many as the number of the enclosures.

The wooden bridge was built over the dry moat

he L-shaped earthen walls of the Main Enclosure to make a flanking attack enemies in the Well Enclosure

The Well Enclosure seen from the Main Enclosure

The route to the Main Enclosure (the red arrow) and the counterattack from the Enclosure (the blue arrow)

To be continued in “Sugiyama Castle Part3”
Back to “Sugiyama Castle Part1”