111.Mukai-Haguroyama Castle Part1

Moriuji Ashina. who became a great warlord, retired, transferred the headship of the family to his son and started the construction of a new castle as his retreat, which would be Mukai-Haguroyama Castle.

Location and History

Origin of Castle’s name

Mukai-Haguroyama Castle was located in the Aizu area of the modern day Fukushima Prefecture. Regarding castles and ruins, the area is much more known for Wakamatsu Castle which was the home base of the Aizu Domain during the Edo Period. However, the castle had been called Kurokawa Castle when the Ashina Clan owned it and the clan had a much larger Mukai-Haguroyama Castle than Kurokawa Castle at that time. The mountain that Mukai-Haguroyama Castle was built on was originally called Iwasaki Mountain, so the castle was first called Iwasaki Castle as well. Alternatively, the mountain was called Mukai-Haguroyama Mountain, which means the mountain opposite of Haguroyama Mountain. These two mountains actually look like they are standing in a row, so the castle was eventually called Mukai-Haguroyama Castle sometime later.

Wakamatsu Castle seen from Odayama Castle Ruins
Mukai-Haguroyama (or Iwasaki) Mountain on the left and Haguroyama Mountain on the right, seen from Odayama Castle Ruins

Ashina Clan settles in Aizu area

The Ashina Clan originally came from the Sawara Clan, a branch family of the Miura Clan, which was a senior vassal family of the Kamakura Shogunate in the early Middle Ages, which was based in Miura Peninsula of Sagami Province (now Kanagawa Pref.). After Yoritomo Minamoto, the founder of the shogunate invaded the Tohoku Region in 1189, the Sawara Clan got a territory in the Aizu area for their contributions. Some of the clan settled in the area and renamed their family names, such as the Inawashiro, Kitada, and Shingu Clans. In the early 14th Century when the Ashikaga Shogunate was established, the Ashina Clan, another branch family of the Sawara Clan, was active in the Tohoku Region including the Aizu area, who called itself “the Aizu Governor”. As a result, the clan moved their home base from Ashina in Miura Peninsula to the Aizu area and built a new hall called Otakaki-no-tate in the middle of the century, which would later be known as Kurokawa Castle.

The location of the castle and the birthplace of the Ashina Clan

However, the Ashina Clan was not able to govern the area easily because the other relatives of the Sawara Clan and other local clans did not obey the Ashina Clan just with its authority. The Ashina Clan needed to force them to obey the clan by force, otherwise it had to defeat them. For example, the Ashina Clan battled and defeated the Kitada and Shingu Clans. All of which, including the Ashina Clan, came from the same Sawara Clan. Another relative, the Inawashiro Clan became a senior vassal of the Ashina Clan after they fought with each other. The Ashina Clan also needed to prevent great lords outside the Aizu Area, such as the Date, Nikaido, and Satake Clans from invasion of the area. The lords of the Ashina Clan usually lived in Kurokawa Castle in the plain Aizu Basin. They also built Odayama Castle on Odayama Mountain beside the basin, about 1.5km away from Kurokawa Castle, as a final place for emergencies. Such a combination can also be seen in the cases of other clans over the whole country during the Sengoku Period. Odayama Castle was also used as their ancestors’ graveyard.

The relief map around Kurokawa Castle

The ruins of Odayama Castle (its Main Gate)
The ruins of the Ashina Clan’s graveyard

Moriuji Ashina builds Mukai-Haguroyama Castle as his Retreat

The Ashina Clan’s power reached its peak when Moriuji Ashina, the lord of the clan at that time, reigned in the middle of the 16th Century. His government of the Aizu area became stable and he also had diplomatic relationships with other great warlords in Japan, like Kenshin Uesugi, Shingen Takeda, and Masamune Date, which meant he became a great warlord as well. What he did next was retire and transfer the headship of the family to his son and start the construction of a new castle in 1861 as his retreat and the replacement for Odayama Castle, about 5km away from Kurokawa Castle in the south, which would be Mukai-Haguroyama Castle. However, the castle was too large for the retreat and the replacement, in fact, Moriuji still had the real power of the clan and the castle looked like a new home base for the clan. The construction lasted for 8 years until 1568, which resulted in one of the largest mountain castles in the Tohoku Region. The castle was built using soil, which was a typical method of building castles in eastern Japan, and had uncountable enclosures protected by structures using and processing natural terrain, such as deep dry moats, thick earthen walls and artificial vertical cliffs.

The portrait of Moriuji Ashina, from the database of Historiographical Institute, the University of Tokyo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The imaginary drawing of Mukai-Haguroyama Castle, from the signboard at the site

Castle is abandoned after being followed by Several Loads

The Ashina Clan’s power decreased after Moriuji died in 1580 as his successors died young. Because of that, the clan and its senior vassals had to accommodate their new lord from a great warlord outside to maintain their territory. The candidates were ones from the Satake Clan and the Date Clan. As a result, they concluded that the successor would come from the Satake Clan, named Yoshihiro Ashina in 1587. However, this event caused a split in the clan, into the faction in power and the other supporting Date. In 1589, Masamune Date started to invade Ashina’s territory. Yoshihiro tried to repel the invasion, but many of his senior vassals, including the relative Inawashiro Clan, supported the Date’s side or left him. He was defeated by Masamune in the battle of Suriagehara and escaped form the Aizu area to his parents’ home. This battle resulted in Kurokawa Castle, the home base of the Ashina Clan being captured by Masamune and the clan’s destruction.

The portrait of Masamune Date, owned by Sendai City Museum, (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Mukai-Haguroyama Castle was followed by Masamune Ujisato Gamo, and Kagekatsu Uesugi like they used Kurokawa Castle (renamed to Wakamatsu Castle). This was because they still needed to use it as a final castle for emergencies like a battle. However, the castle was eventually abandoned after Kagekatsu was transferred to Yonezawa Castle in 1601 due to the defeat in the decisive battle in 1600 against Ieyasu Tokugawa who would be the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The portrait of Ujisato Gamo, owned by Aizu Wakamatsu Library (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Kagekatsu Uesugi, owned by Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Mukai-Haguroyama Castle

To be continued in “Mukai-Haguroyama Part2”

109.米沢城~Yonezawa Castle

改革は困窮から生まれました。
The innovation came from poverty.

A view of Honmaru ruins〜本丸跡の風景

米沢城は、山形県南部の米沢盆地に位置していました。城は平地の上で三重の堀に囲まれていました。この城は最初は大江氏によって築かれたと言われていますが、戦国時代の伊達氏の居城として有名です。最終的には、この城は越後国(現在の新潟県)から移ってきた上杉氏の所有となりました。
Yonezawa Castle was located on the Yonezawa Basin in the southern part of Yamagata Pref. It was surrounded by water moats tripled on a plane area. It is said that the Ohe clan first built the castle, but it is famous for the Date clan’s home in the Warring States Period. Finally, the castle belonged to the Uesugi clan that transferred from Echigo Province (now Niigata Pref.).

出羽国米沢城絵図部分、江戸時代~Part of the illustration of Yonezawa Castle in Dewa Province, in the Edo Period(出典:国立公文書館)

上杉氏は最初、豊臣氏の統治の下では120万石を領有していました。江戸時代になって、上杉氏の米沢藩の石高は15万石まで減少しました。徳川幕府により当初の8分の1まで減らされたのは、関ヶ原の戦いでの敗戦と、相続の不手際によるものでした。藩は困窮に陥りました。藩士の数を120万石の時のままにしていたからです。江戸中期までに藩士の俸禄は半分にカットされました。農民の数は減り続け、人々の間には浪費をし、怠ける風潮が蔓延しました。
Uesugi clan first earned a fief of 1.2 million koku of rice during the Toyotomi clan’s governance. In the Edo Period, the earning of Yonezawa Domain of the clan decreased to 0.15 million koku. One eighth of the first by the Tokugawa Shogunate was due to the defeat in the Battle of Sekigahara and the mismanagement of inheritance. They were reduced to poverty because they had kept the number of warriors to 1.2 million koku. By mid Edo Period, warriors’ salaries were cut in half. The population of farmers was decreasing, people became lazy just using money.

米沢藩の15万石の領地~Yonezawa Domain’s territory of 0.15 million koku of rice(licensed by BigBang19 via Wikimedia Commons)

1767年に上杉鷹山が米沢藩の10代目の藩主として登場しました。彼は藩の改革を開始しました。中国古代の伝説上の聖人を理想としながらも、様々な実用的な学問を基にした政策を推し進めたのです。彼自身は倹約しましたが、農業、工芸、繊維業といった産業を振興しました。彼はまた有名な学者を招き、女性を含む民衆の教育を進めました。一定の条件が整えば、子供や高齢者には褒賞金も支給されたのです。
Yozan Uesugi rose as the 10th lord of Yonezawa Domain in 1767. He started the innovation of the domain, pursuing the governance of ancient legendary Chinese saints, and promoted his policies based on mixed practical learning. He saved expense for himself, but increased industries in the domain such as agriculture, crafts and textile. He also let people including women educated by invited famous scholars. Children and elders were provided a bonus under certain regulation.

上杉鷹山肖像画、上杉神社蔵~The portrait of Yozan Uesugi, owned by Uesugi Shrine(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Domain)

鷹山は、「富国安民」という、国が豊かになり、人々が安心して暮らせる状態の実現を目指しました。彼の統治は当時からよく知られていたのですが、明治時代の指導者たちでさえ米沢の産業の振興ぶりに驚いているほどです。例えば、帝人は米沢が発祥の繊維会社です。第35代アメリカ大統領のジョン・F・ケネディも鷹山を尊敬していたと言われています。ケネディの娘、キャロラインは米国大使として2014年に米沢市を訪問し、そのことを述べています。
Yozan aimed to reach the state of national wealth and people living in peace called “Fukoku-Anmin”. While his governance got well-known from that time, leaders in the Meiji Era were still surprised the rise in industry in Yonezawa. For example, Teijin is a textile company that comes from this city. It is said that even the 35th U.S. president John F. Kennedy respected Yozan. His daughter Caroline Kennedy, the U.S. ambassador to Japan, visited Yonezawa City in 2014 and mentioned that.

米国50セント硬貨に刻まれたケネディの横顔~Kenedy’s profile on a U.S. fifty cent peace(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

特徴~Features

現在、本丸の跡地が上杉神社を含む松が岬公園として残っています。そこには城の建物はありませんし、堀には高い石垣もありませんので、地味な印象を受けるかもしれません。その替わりにこの地には多くの歴史的文化的遺産があります。
Now, the ruins of the main enclosure “Honmaru” remain as Matsugasaki Park including Uesugi Shrine. They may have a quiet impression because there is no buildings for castle and the moat don’t have high stone walls. Instead, the site has many historical and cultural properties.

本丸跡入口~The entrance of Honmaru ruins

そのうちの一つは上杉氏の遺産です。米沢市上杉博物館では、洛中洛外図屏風(上杉本)を見ることができます。この屏風は有力な戦国大名織田信長から、上杉氏の始祖である上杉謙信に送られたものです。上杉神社の宝物館、稽照殿では謙信など上杉氏の実物の甲冑も見ることができます。
One of them is about Uesugi clan’s heritage. You can see the Folding Screens of Scenes in and around Kyoto (Uesugi Version) at Yonezawa City Uesugi Museum. They were sent to Kenshin Uesugi, the founder of the clan by a great warlord Nobunaga Oda. You can also see original armors of the clan such as Kenshin at Keishoden Museum of Uesugi shrine.

米沢市上杉博物館~Yonezawa City Uesugi Museum(licensed by contri via Wikimedia Commons)
「洛中洛外図屏風」左隻、米沢市上杉博物館蔵~The left wing of the Folding Screens of Scenes in and around Kyoto (Uesugi Version), owned by Yonezawa City Uesugi Museum(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
左隻に描かれた足利将軍邸、右上の行列にいる貴人は上杉謙信と言われている~The palace of Ashikaga shogun on the left wing, it is said that the noble in the parade at the upper right corner is Kenshin Uesugi.

もう一つの見ものは上杉鷹山に関するものです。上杉博物館では彼の考えや治績について学ぶことができます。民衆を指導するための彼の自筆書簡を見ることもできます。そして、本丸には謙信を祀った祠堂の跡があります。ここは城の中で一番高く、最も重要な地点でした。鷹山は、飢饉のときここで人々の繁栄のために祈りを捧げたといいます。他には本丸の手前に鷹山が祭られている松が岬神社があります。そこには鷹山の銅像と、キャロライン訪問の記念碑があります。
Another attraction is about Yozan Uesugi. You can learn about his ideas and governance in the Uesugi Museum. His autograph letters that instructed people can also been seen there. There is the ruins of the ancestral hall for Kenshin in Honmaru, which was the highest ,most important spot in the castle. This is where Yozan pray for people’s prosperity during famines. There is also Matsugasaki Shrine in front of Honmaru, where Yozan is enshrined. You can see the statue of Yozan, and the monument of Caroline’s visit.

本丸の祠堂跡~The ruins of the ancestral hall at Honmaru
松が岬神社にある上杉鷹山銅像~The statue of Yozan Uesugi at Matsugasaki Shrine(taken by バカボン君 from photoAC)
キャロライン・ケネディ駐日米国大使訪問の記念碑~The monument of the visit of the U.S. ambassador to Japan, Caroline Kennedy

その後~Later Life

明治維新後、米沢城は1874年に松が岬公園となりました。城の建物は撤去され、代わりに公園内に上杉神社が設立されました。1919年の米沢大火により神社は焼けてしまい、現在の神社の社殿は1923年に再建されたものです。
After the Meiji Restoration, Yonezawa Castle was turned into Matsugasaki Park in 1874. The buildings of the castle were demolished and Uesugi Shrine was established in the park instead. The 1919 Yonezawa Great Fire burned down the shrine. The present shrine buildings were rebuilt in 1923.

上杉神社社殿~Uesugi Shrine buildings

私の感想~My Impression

米沢城が地味な印象なのは、米沢藩の困窮からなのか、それともそれが方針だったのでしょうか。いずれにせよ、城がシンプルであるほど、上杉鷹山のメッセージが際立つような気がします。上杉神社にはもう一体の彼の銅像とともに、最も有名な格言を刻む石碑があります。「なせば成る」と。
the reason why the castle has a simple impression is because it comes from poverty or policy of Yonezawa Domain. Anyway, I think that the more simple the castle is, the clearer the message from Yozan Uesugi is. The monument of his most famous message is with his other statue in Uesugi Shrine. It’s “Naseba-Naru” which means “Where there is a will, there is a way.”

上杉神社にある上杉鷹山銅像と格言の石碑~The statue of Yozan Uesugi and the monument of his message

ここに行くには~How to get There

車で行く場合:東北中央自動車道米沢八幡原IC、米沢中央IC、または米沢北ICから10~15分かかります。城跡の周りにいくつか駐車場があります。
米沢駅からバスで行く場合:米沢駅西口バスターミナルから、米沢市街地循環バス(循環右回り)または山交バス(白布温泉行き)に乗り、上杉神社前バス停で降りてください。
東京から米沢駅まで:山形新幹線に乗ってください。
If you want to go there by car: It takes about 10 to 15 minutes from the Yonezawa-Hachimanpara IC, Yonezawa-Chuo IC or Yonezawa-Kita IC on Tohoku-Chuo Expressway. There are several parking lots around the ruins.
If you want to go there by bus from Yonezawa station: Take the Yonezawa citizen bus (city area circulation route-clockwise) or the Yamako bus bound for Shirabu-Onsen at the Yonezawa station west entrance bus terminal, and take off at the Uesugi-Jinja-Mae bus stop.
From Tokyo to Yonezawa st.: Take the Yamagata Shinkansen super express.

リンク、参考情報~Links and References

米沢観光ナビ~Yonezawa Sightseeing Navigation site
・「上杉鷹山と米沢 (人をあるく)/小関悠一郎著」吉川弘文館(Japanese Book)