178.Noshima Castle Part1

Noshima Castle was located on Noshima Island, which is in a narrow strait called Miyakubo-Seto, and part of the Geiyo Islands in the Seto Inland Sea. It was also built and operated by the Noshima-Murakami Clan, one of the three Murakami Navies which were very active around these islands.

Location and History

Murakami Navies, Excellent Guides of Seto Inland Sea

Noshima Castle was located on Noshima Island, which is in a narrow strait called Miyakubo-Seto, and part of the Geiyo Islands in the Seto Inland Sea. It was also built and operated by the Noshima-Murakami Clan, one of the three Murakami Navies which were very active around these islands. Before modern times, sailing along the coast was a major way of transportation. Seto Inland Sea was one of the most important sea routes, which connected central and western Japan. However, the Geiyo Islands area has lots of islands and narrow straits, which made the sea currents fast and difficult. For example, in Kurushima Strait, the direction and speed of the current frequently changes mainly due to the pull of the moon. Ships are still now required to follow instructions from the sea traffic center and its traffic signals.

The Kurushima Strait

The location of the castle

In the Middle Ages, boatmen and pilots, who sailed there, were required to have great competence instead. In addition, sailing alone could be very dangerous at that time as the police power of the central government was still weak. Each area was governed by a local lord or others, such as pirates. People at that time thought travelers should pay a toll when they passed others’ territories. The Murakami Navies, which were also some of the local lords, came out to guarantee safe travel to ships around the islands. The earliest record about them in 1349 says the Noshima-Murakami Clan guarded the sea around Yuge Island. Their system was roughly as follow: they escorted ships which had paid protection money (basically 10% of the value of the cargo), otherwise, they became pirates by chasing the ship using their boats called Kobayabune (meaning “small fast boat”).

The restored Kobayabune boat, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum

Home of Noshima-Murakami Clan

The navies were eventually divided into three clans: the Innoshima-Murakami, Noshima-Murakami, and Kurushima-Murakami Clans. Their territories were based on the northern, middle, and southern Geiyo Islands respectively. Noshima is a small island in the Miyakubo-Seto Strait which is between Ushima Island to the north and Oshima Island to the south. The strait was on one of the shortest paths for ships to pass through the Seto Inland Sea. However, the speed of the current is at most around 10 knots and kept changing constantly. The sea around the island is shallow and kept swirling, which is uncontrollable for regular ships. For the navy members, Noshima is about 300m away from Oshima Island where they usually live, so they could communicate verbally. That meant they could immediately ask or provide help to each other in the event of an emergency. From the top of Noshima, they were able to see the whole strait, beacon fires on mountains of Oshima Island and even Shikoku Island over Oshima between the mountains. Overall, it was suitable for the home base of the Noshima-Murakami Clan.

The diorama of the area around Noshima Island (marked by the red circle), exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum
The Oshima Island seen from Noshima Castle Ruins, can we communicate with voice?
The ruins of Koga Yashiki residence in the Oshima Island, which was said to have been the residence of the Noshima-Murakami Clan

They operated Noshima Castle on the island between the 14th and 16th Centuries. Several enclosures and buildings were built after leveling the land. The navy members lived in or were stationed at the site not only to guard the strait, but also to trade and fish. The defensive systems of the castle were few, excluding artificial vertical cliffs on the sides, because its sea barrier was strong. Instead, they constructed harbors, landing places and maintenance yards at the seaside. On the other hand, the island didn’t provide water, food and other supplies they needed, which had to be brought from other islands.

The imaginary drawing of Noshima Castle, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum

“Largest Pirates of Japan”

The Murakami Navies also often joined battles to support other warlords. In the case of the Noshima-Murakami Clan, it had a good relationship with the Kobayakawa Clan, a branch of the Mori Clan which was the greatest warlord in the Chugoku Region nearby. They needed the superior navy power to survive during the harsh Sengoku Period. Other warlords, such as the Otomo Clan, also invited the Noshima-Murakami Clan. When it once switched to the Otomo’s side, the Kobayakawa Clan, which also had a navy, attacked and blocked Noshima Castle by interrupting the supplies (laying siege) to the castle until it returned to the Kobayakawa’s side.

The portrait of Takakage Kobayakawa who was the clan’s lord at that time, owned by Beisanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The power of the Noshima-Murakami Clan reached its peak when Takeyoshi Murakami was the lord during the late 16th Century. The most popular battle his navy fought in was the First Battle of Kizugawaguchi between the Mori and Oda Clans in 1576. In this battle, the Mori’s navies, supported by the Takeyoshi’s navy, who tried to bring supplies to Ishiyama Honganji Temple (currently Osaka Castle), and blocked by the Oda’s navies. Tekayoshi’s navy attacked the Oda’s ships with bombs, which eventually burned and sank. The supply operation was a success. In 1586, a Portugal missionary, Luis Frois visited Noshima Castle while sailing the Seto Inland Sea. He recorded in his book “The History of Japan” that they were the largest group of pirates. His crew was given a passport-flag which would guaranteed his safe voyage considerably.

The imaginary drawing of the First Battle of Kizugawaguchi, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum
The imaginary drawing of Luis Frois‘s visit to Noshima Castle, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum
One of the remaining passport-flags, owned by Yamaguchi Prefectural Archives (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Sudden Ending of Navies and Castle

The three Murakami Navies basically cooperated with each other, however, they eventually took different paths. The Kurushima-Murakami Clan switched to the Oda’s side through the invitation of Hideyoshi Hashiba, who would later be the ruler. Therefore, Takeyoshi occupied the Kurushima’s territory. However, this would be a misfortune for him. In the process of the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi, he was asked to return it to the Kurushima by Hideyoshi. He seemed to want to maintain his clan’s independence. However, when the Kobayakawa Clan, which was the current boss of the Noshima-Murakami Clan, was transferred to the Kushu Region by Hideyoshi, Takeyoshi finally had no choice but to leave all his territories including Noshima Castle.

The current Noshima Castle Ruins, seen from the Oshima Island

To be continued in “Noshima Castle Part2”

178.能島城 その1

能島城は、瀬戸内海の芸予諸島のうち、宮窪瀬戸と呼ばれる狭い海峡の真ん中に位置する能島にあった城です。この城は、芸予諸島で活躍した3つの村上水軍の一つ、能島村上氏によって築かれ使われていました。

立地と歴史

瀬戸内海航路の案内役、村上水軍

能島城は、瀬戸内海の芸予諸島のうち、宮窪瀬戸と呼ばれる狭い海峡の真ん中に位置する能島にあった城です。この城は、芸予諸島で活躍した3つの村上水軍の一つ、能島村上氏によって築かれ使われていました。近代以前において、沿岸航海は主要な交通手段の一つでした。瀬戸内海は、最も重要な航路の一つであり、畿内と西日本をつないでいました。しかし、芸予諸島には数多くの島があり、その間の狭い海峡により、海流は急速かつ複雑となっています。例えば来島海峡では、海流の向きとスピードは、主に月の引力により頻繁に変わります。ここを通る船は今でも海上交通センターの指示や信号に従って航行する必要があります。

城の位置

来島海峡

中世において瀬戸内海のような海を航行する際には、優秀な水夫や水先案内人が必要とされました。更には、当時は単独で航行すること自体が危険な行為になりかねませんでした。中央政権の警察力がまだ貧弱だったからです。それぞれの地方は、その地の領主か、場合によっては海賊ような者によって治められていたのです。また、当時の人たちは、他人の領地を通り過ぎる時には通行料を払うべきという感覚も持っていました。村上水軍もその地方領主の一部であったのですが、瀬戸内海を航行する船の安全を保証する存在として台頭しました。彼らについての最も早い記録として、1349年に能島村上氏が弓削島周辺の警備を行ったというものがあります。彼らの警備システムは次のようなものでした。警護料(基本的には積荷の10%だったと言われています)を支払った船に対しては安全な航路を案内する一方、支払わない船に対しては小早船(こばやぶね)と呼ばれる高速艇で追いかけ、海賊行為を働くというものでした。

復元された小早船、今治市村上海賊ミュージアムにて展示

能島村上氏の本拠地として築城

村上水軍はやがて、3つの氏族に分かれていきました。因島村上氏、能島村上氏、来島村上氏です。彼らの勢力圏はそれぞれ、芸予諸島の北側、中間、南側に当たりました。能島は宮窪瀬戸にある小さな島で、北方の鵜島、南方の大島に挟まれた場所にありました。宮窪瀬戸は、瀬戸内海を通る最も最短のルートの一つの途中にあったのです。ところが、その地点の海流のスピードは最大で10ノットに及び、絶えず変化しています。また、能島周辺の海は浅瀬で渦を巻いていて、不慣れな船は制御不能に陥ってしまいます。水軍のメンバーにとっては能島は、彼らが普段暮らしていた大島から約300m沖合にあって、大声で連絡が取りあえる範囲内でした。緊急事態が発生したときにも、お互いに助け合う態勢が取りやすくなっていたのです。能島の頂部からは海峡の全体を見渡すことができ、大島にある山の上で焚かれた烽火や、大島の山あいを超えて四国までも見通すことができました。能島村上氏の本拠地としてうってつけの場所だったのです。

能島周辺のジオラマ(能島部分に赤丸を付加)、今治市村上海賊ミュージアムにて展示
能島から見た対岸の大島、大声が届くかどうか
大島にある「幸賀屋敷」と呼ばれる能島村上氏が住んでいた場所

能島城は、14世紀から16世紀の間に存在していました。島は整地され、その上にはいくつもの曲輪や建物が築かれました。水軍の兵士はそこに住むか、あるいは駐屯していて、海峡を防御していただけでなく、交易や漁業にも従事していました。城を防衛する仕組みは少なく、島の側面に人工的に切岸が設けられた程度でした。島を囲む海そのものが障壁となっていたからです。代わりに、島の海岸には船着き場、荷上場、メンテナンス場などが設けられました。一方で、島には水、食料、その他必要な資材は一切なかったため、他の島から運び込む必要がありました。

能島城の想像図、今治市村上海賊ミュージアムにて展示

「日本最大の海賊」となる

村上水軍はまた、他の戦国大名を支援して戦いに参加することもありました。能島村上氏の場合は、近くの中国地方で最大の戦国大名であった毛利氏の支族、小早川氏と友好関係を築いていました。シビアな戦国時代を生き残るためには、強力な村上水軍の力が必要とされたのです。大友氏などの他の戦国大名も、能島村上氏に味方になるよう働きかけました。そして能島村上氏が一時、大友氏側に乗り換えたことがあったのですが、小早川氏は自身の水軍によって能島城を攻撃、包囲して、城への補給を断つ作戦に出ました。そのことで能島村上氏は、小早川氏側に再び戻ってきたという事件もありました。

当時の小早川氏の当主、小早川隆景肖像画、米山寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

能島村上氏の力は16世紀後半、村上武吉(むらかみたけよし)が当主のときにピークに達しました。彼の水軍が参加した中で最も有名な戦いといえば、1576年に毛利氏と織田氏との間で起きた第一次木津川口の戦いでしょう。この戦いでは、武吉の水軍(武吉の弟によって率いられていました)も加わった毛利水軍が、石山本願寺(現在の大坂城)に兵糧を運び込もうとしますが、織田水軍に妨害されていました。村上水軍は、焙烙(ほうろく)と呼ばれた爆弾を織田軍の船に投げ入れ、爆発させ沈めたのです。水軍による補給作戦は成功しました。1586年、ポルトガルの宣教師、ルイス・フロイスは瀬戸内海を航行中に能島城に立ち寄りました。フロイスは著書「日本史」の中で「彼らは日本最大の海賊である」と述べています。フロイス一行は過所船旗(かしょせんき)と呼ばれる通行許可証をもらい受け、それによって広範囲の安全な航海を保証されたのです。

第一次木津川口の戦いの想像図、今治市村上海賊ミュージアムにて展示
ルイスフロイス来訪時の想像図、今治市村上海賊ミュージアムにて展示
現存する過所船旗の一つ、山口県文書館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

水軍と城の突然の終焉

3つの村上水軍家は、基本的にはお互いに協調していましたが、やがて違う道を歩むことになります。来島村上氏は、後に天下人となる羽柴秀吉の勧誘により、織田氏側に付きました。これにより、武吉は来島村上氏の領土を占領しました。ところが、これが彼にとっての不幸につながります。やがて秀吉による天下統一が進んでいくと、武吉は秀吉から来島村上氏への領土返還を要求されました。武吉は村上一族の独立維持ということを願っていたようなのですが、それも叶わなくなります。能島村上氏のその時の主君であった小早川氏が秀吉によって九州地方に転封となったとき、武吉も能島城を含む、全て領地から離れなければならなくなったのです。

大島から見た能島城跡

「能島城その2」に続きます。

173.Nitakayama Castle Part3

After Nitakayama Castle was abandoned, its ruins were used as a place for the practices of the mountain priests. That’s why there are stone buddha statues and monuments they built on the top of the mountain.

Features

Unique Final Enclosure

Tsume-no-maru (meaning the final enclosure) is next to the main enclosure to the southeast. It is also the top of the mountain, where you can enjoy great views of the surrounding area, such as Takayama Castle Ruins, Nuta River, and even Seto Inland Sea. It is also a more interesting place than only the top area. It is the rockiest and steepest area of this mountain. Furthermore, it has lots of stone buddha statues and monuments which mountain priests built. That’s why this site has become unique.

The map around the castle

The Tsume-no-maru (final) Enclosure
The top of NItakayama Mountain
A view of the Nuta River towards the Seto Inland Sea from the top
The ruins of Takayama Castle
The stone buddha statues around the top

Well Enclosure, Lifeline of Castle

Tsurii-no-dan (meaning the well enclosure) is next to the main enclosure to the north. You can go there from the back gate of the main enclosure by walking down another Masugata system. This Masugata is different. It is called the inter type which is highly improved than that of the main gate (the outer type). It also still has clearly remaining earthen walls which form its square shape.

The ruins of the back gate of the main enclosure
The Masugata system of the back gate, seen from its side

Tsurii-no-dan Enclosure is lower than others, like a valley, which still has six large well ruins. It was very important for the castle not only to be besieged for a long time, but also to be able to live in.

The Tsurii-no-dan (well) Enclosure
One of the six well ruins in the enclosure

Later History

After Nitakayama Castle was abandoned, its ruins were used as a place for the practices of the mountain priests. That’s why you saw the stone buddha statues and monuments on the top they built. They also built chain fields on the steepest route to the top which experienced climbers still use today. However, general visitors shouldn’t use it. As for the castle ruins, they were designated as National Historic Sites with Mihara and Takayama Castles in 1957.

A monument on the top
The top area of Nitakayama Mountain, looking very steep

My Impression

Mihara Castle was the final castle of Takakage Kobayakawa. However, I’m not quite sure what the castle looked like when he lived there because it was greatly improved by Fukushima and Asano Clans after Takakage died. Therefore, we can’t find how and where the huge stones from Nitakayama Castle were used in Mihara Castle. That means the ruins of Nitakayama Castle are valuable to see the legacies of Takakage’s period. As for myself, I would like to visit the ruins of Takayama Castle next to Nitakayama Castle someday.

A picture of Mihara Castle, drawn on the wall of Mihara Station
The part of the Main Tower base of Mihara Castle, which was built by Takakage Kobayakawa

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 4km drive away from Hongo IC on the Sanyo Expressway. There is a parking lot for visitors near the entrance of the hiking course.

The parking lot for visitors

By public transportation, it takes about 25 minutes on foot from JR Hongo Station.
After you get out of the station, turn right and go along the street in front of the station. Then, turn left at the first intersection, and the street leads to a bridge over the Nuta River while it follows a winding road. It may be better for you to walk the sidewalk on the left because the next intersection has a crosswalk only on this side.

Go along the street in front of the station
Walk the sidewalk on the left after turning left
The crosswalk in fron t of the bridge

If you walk across it, you will go on the bridge seeing a good view of Nitakayama and Takayama Mountains on the right. After that, turn right, go across another crosswalk and go on a path on the bank beside the river towards the mountains. This path will split into two, but eventually they will meet in front of a shrine. You will eventually arrive at the entrance of the hiking course.

Nitakayama Mountain on the left and Takayama Mountain on the right, seen from the bridge
You can choose either path on the bank
Arriving at the starting point to the castle ruins

From Tokyo or Osaka to the station: get Sanyo Shinkansen bullet train and transfer to the Sanyo Line at Mihara Station.

That’s all. Thank you.
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