20.Sakura Castle Part1 (draft)

Sakura Castle was located at the current Sakkura City of Chiba Prefecture. The castle was built as the home of the Sakura Domain during the Edo Period, which is the origin of the city. The areas around the city had many other castles until the Sengoku Period and some of which were very important.

Location and History

Sakura Castle was located at the current Sakura City of Chiba Prefecture. The castle was built as the home of the Sakura Domain during the Edo Period, which is the origin of the city. The areas around the city had many other castles until the Sengoku Period and some of which were very important. For example, there was Usui Castle in the western part of the city, where the battle of Usui Castle happened back in 1566. Kenshin Uesugi, who tried to rule the whole Kanto Region, attacked the castle but failed. There was also Motosakura Castle in the eastern part, which was the home of the Chiba Clan. Usui Castle was a branch of the clan. Cuttently, this castle is called “Motosakura” but back then, it was called “Sakura Castle”. So therefore, Sakura Castle was the former name of Motosakura Castle. This article will explain the formative years of Sakura Castle including the formation of Motosakura Castle, which should make it easier for people to better understand the history.

The ruins of Usui Castle, Notice the wooden log steps covered in soil
The ruins of Motosakura Castle, Notice the icon on the wooden shields.  This is the family crest of the Chiba Clan

Formative Years of Sakura Castle

The Chiba Clan had owned Shimosa Province, which was the northern part of Chiba Prefecture, since the end of the ancient times. The most famous person of the clan would be Tsunetane Chiba who supported the launch of the Kamakura Shogunate at the end of the 12th Century. Their home, Inohana Castle, was located at the current Chiba City for a long time. However, the castle was destroyed when many battles occurred in the 15th Century during the Sengoku Period. The clan decided to rebuild their new home in another location, which would be called Motosakura Castle. The castle was on the Shimosa plateau and was surrounded by Inbanuma Lake and other waterlogged areas. Its location was much more fortified than before and more convenient for water transportation. The lake was also much larger than now, where people could easily access Kasumigaura Lake and other great rivers. The wide water area was even called Katori-no-umi, which means the Katori inland sea.

The statue of Tsunetane Chiba, exhibited by Chiba City Folk Museum
The whole map of Motosakura Castle, from the signboard at the site

The situation changed during the 16th Century. The Hojo Clan was invading the Kanto Region from the west. On the other hand, the Satomi Clan also got the power from the south (Boso peninsula). The Chiba Clan wondered what to do and they eventually allied with the Hojo Clan. That’s why Kenshin Uesugi, who would help the Satomi Clan, decided to attack Usui Castle, a branch of the Chiba Clan. The victory of the clan was partially due to the Hojo Clan’s help. As a result, the Hojo became more effective to the Chiba Clan. As for the home of the clan, Chikatane Chiba, who was the lord of the clan before the battle, originally planned to move his home from Motosakura to another. The new land for his new home later became Sakura Castle, which was called Kashima Castle then. Mysteriously, he died in 1533, which ultimately canceled his plans of moving the castle.

The location of the castle, Notice the smaller Inbanuma Lake on the left next to Usui Castle. This important river used to span much larger that what the current map is showing. It used to be part of a much larger body of water.

The portrait of Kenshin Uesugi, owned by the Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Chikatane Chiba, owned by the Kubo Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The Hojo Clan interfered in the internal affairs of the Chiba Clan at the end of the 16th Century. For instance, Ujimasa Hojo married his daughter to Kunitane Chiba, the lord of the clan. The Hojo Clan allowed Kunitane to resume the construction of Kashima Castle but failed to do so because the lord was killed again. Ujimasa next married his son to Kunitane’s daughter, in order to be the successor of the clan. It was said that Kashima Castle was finally finished for the new home of the couple.

The portrait of Ujimasa Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

However, it is difficult to confirm whether these records are the factual, as Sakura Castle was built on the old Kashima Castle. The few discovered old dry moats at the site proved that they were at least trying to build the castle there. So, why did the Chiba and Hojo Clans want to move there again and again? One of the reasons would be that the land for the new castle was much larger than the old one. For the Hojo Clan, another possible reason may have been to protect their territories from the potential invasions by Hideyoshi Toyotomi from the west. The plateau, where the new castle was built on, had steep slopes and was surrounded by rivers towards the direction. That would have had a very defensive fort against the invasion. However, the Chiba Clan was eventually fired by Hideyoshi, after their master, the Hojo Clan was defeated at the battle of Odawara Castle in 1590.

The current Sakura Castle
The current Odawara Castle

Toshikatsu Doi builds Sakura Castle

After the Battle of Odawara Castle, several lords were assigned one after another by Ieyasu Tokugawa who was the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. In 1610, Ieyasu ordered his retainer, Toshikatsu Doi to stay in Motosakura Castle and to build a new home at the former location of Kashima Castle, which would eventually be called, Sakura Castle. The new castle was supposed to support Edo Castle, the home of the shogunate. If Edo Castle was attacked by enemies from the west, the shogun could escape from his home to Sakura Castle towards the east. Sakura Castlewas situated in a great location that had very strong natural defense.

The portrait of Toshikatsu Doi, owned by Jojoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Toshikatsu served three generations of the shoguns: Ieyasu, Hidetada, and Iemitsu. He was one of the most important senior vassals for them and established the system of the government. He was born in 1573 when Ieyasu was only a warlord during the Seongoku Period. There are some theories about who his father was.
The first one is that Toshimasa Doi was his father, according to the official family trees by the shogunate.
The second one claims that he was a son of Nobumoto Mizuno who was a brother of Odai, Ieyasu’s mother, according to the official history books of the shogunate. Odai originally came from the Mizuno Clan.
The last theory is the most surprising theory, it was said that Toshikatsu was an illegitimate son of Ieyasu, according to the official trees of the Doi Clan.
Each theory has substantial evidence, however only one theory can be true. Why were there different theories?

The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Recent studies believe the followings. Toshikatsu has a short sword where the family crest of the Mizuno Clan was engraved. It was passed down from Odai to Ieyasu who gave it to Toshikatsu. That meant Toshikatsu was Ieyasu’s son. However, it was a very know fact, which was not recorded officially. That’s why the official family trees simply say Toshikatsu was a biological son of the Doi Clan (in fact, adopted). After that, Toshimasu Doi, who was a grandson of Toshikatsu, was worried about the declining reputation of his clan. He thought that he should settle the mystery of his grandfather to gain a stable position for the clan. His decision was that he would announce that Toshikatsu was a son of the Mizuno Clan by using its family crest on the sword. The writers of the official history books probably heard about it. Finally, Toshisato Doi, the 8th lord of the clan, was asked as to who Toshikatsu’s mother was by the shogunate. Toshisato decided that he would answer by telling the truth and put it on his clan’s official trees. However, the shogunate couldn’t accept it because the matters of Ieyasu were too serious to change for them. As a result, the three theories certainly unchanged today. As for Toshikatsu himself, he became a close vassal of Hidetada, who was the successor of Ieyasu, when Toshikatsu was only 7 years old. No matter who his father was, it’s no mystery that he was a very talented person.

The portrait of Toshimasu Doi, owned by Jojoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

When Ieyasu established the shogunate, his most influential retainers were the Honda and the Okubo Clans. However, they often had internal conflicts with each other. As a result, Masazumi Honda survived when Hidetada became the 2nd shogun. Hidetada didn’t want to let Masazumi have more power. He and his close vassals, including Toshikatsu Doi, decided to trick Masazumi. When Masazumi went on a business trip from his home, Utsunomiya Castle, to another castle where he was told about his replacement. That’s the reason Masazumi would not be able to raise a rebellion. In fact, that’s the same way Masazumi excluded the Okubo Clan earlier on. Toshikatsu must have joined the careful planning of the strategy. He continued to serve the shoguns, including the third shogun, Iemitsu, for a long time. He also contributed to the shogunate by building the group guidance system of the shogunate. The system would avoid relying on individual abilities and having internal conflicts so much like the shogunate had used to.

The portrait of Masanobu Honda, owned by Kaga-Maeda Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Tadayo Okubo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

In reality, Toshikatsu survived these internal conflicts. Therefore, people sometimes viewed him as a Machiavellian. On the other hand, he was a well-informed and kind person whom the shoguns, his colleagues, and even foreign merchants often relied on. That may be one of the reasons for his longevity. He was also the founder of the Sakura Domain and built Sakura Castle in over 7 years, which was eventually completed in 1616.

Features of Sakura Castle

Sakura Castle, which was built on a large plateau, had several distinctive features. First, the castle wisely used the natural shapes of the plateau. The plateau was basically a natural hazard, which was about 20m above the foot of the hill and surrounded by Takasaki and Kashima Rivers. The main enclosure was built at the western edge of the plateau, and other enclosures were built around it. Large dry moats and the main gate were also constructed to the east for fortification. The Samurai residences and the castle town with Narita Road were built over the gate. Overall, the castle and town were all created on the plateau.

The illustration of Sakura Castle in Shimousa Province, exhibited by the National Diet Library
The old photo of the main gate, from the signboard at the site, Notice how small the people are.  The gate was so much bigger compared to modern gates today
The remaining dry moat

Secondly, the castle foundations were all made from soil, not using stone walls. When the battle of Odawara Castle happened, Hideyoshi Toyotomi built a castle made of pure stone walls, called Ishigakiyama Castle, for the first time in the Kanto Region. Since then, similar castles, such as Edo Castle, were built in the region. However, Sakura Castle kept the traditional method of the region, using only soil. Other castle used the same method, such as Kawagoe and Utsunomiya Castles. On the other hand, the castle had some of the latest defensive systems at that time. There were two defensive positions, called Umadashi, in front of the gate of the third enclosure. There were also huge enclosures outside the third enclosure, which could accommodate lots of soldiers and was used as a parade ground. Furthermore, the belt enclosures were built on the slopes of the plateau where the defenders were able to move easily. Finally, the enclosures connected to two barbican enclosures outside the plateau.

The ruins of Ishigakiyama Castle
The main tower base of Sakura Castle, Notice that not one stone was used
The current Utsunomiya Castle
The Umadashi enclosure of Sakura Castle
The belt enclosure of Sakura Castle
The barbican enclosure of Sakura Castle, Notice the amount of algae covering the moat

The final feature is about the buildings of the castle. There was the main tower in the main enclosure, which was about 22m high and had three levels (four floors). It was extremely rare for that type of castle to be built at that time. (The shogunate basically didn’t allow new castle constructions after its rules were established.) The tower was said to have moved from Edo castle. Its details are unknown, however, because it was unfortunately burned down by an accidental fire during the Edo Period. Historians speculate that it was similar to that of Koga Castle, which Toshikatsu also built later on. There were also Do-yagura (Copper Turret) and Sumi-yagura (Corner Turret) in the main enclosure. The enclosure also had the main hall inside but was barely used. This was because it was once used by Ieyasu Tokugawa, so it was considered exclusive to the shoguns. Instead, the lord of the castle lived in the main hall of the second enclosure. Atter the hall deteriorated; a new hall was built outside the third enclosure.

The miniature model of the main tower, exhibited by Sakura Castle Park Information Center

Masayoshi Hotta comes up with Opening the Country from Sakura Castle

After Toshikatsu Doi moved to the Koga Domain in 1633, several lord families ruled the Sakura Domain during the Edo Period. In particular, the Hotta Clan owed the domain and castle for a long time until the end of the period. I will describe Masayoshi Hotta who was one of the lords and devoted his life to reforming and opening the country. Masayoshi was born in 1810 and became one of the core members of the central government when he was 32 years old. However, he quit the position 2 years later because he didn’t really get along with Tadakuni Mizuno, the top of the government under the shogun. He kept in touch with his colleagues like Masahiro Abe and Naosuke Ii.

Masayoshi Hotta (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

He also reformed the government of the Sakura Domain. He declared the reform to the retainers of the domain at the main hall in the third enclosure of Sakura Castle. The reform included the military system of the domain. He changed it to the western style and let it exercise in the castle. Another major change from the reform was that Masayoshi introduced the western medicine to the domain. He invited a famous doctor, Taizen Sato from Edo City, who opened a medical school, called Sakura-Juntendo. Lots of students gathered there from all around Japan, which made Sakura called a town of Rangaku (Dutch studies) like Nagasaki. (At that time, the western science was provided from Netherlands, one of the few countries which had diplomatic relations with Japan.) Masayoshi was also called “Ranpeki” which means a person who devotes oneself entirely to Dutch studies and ways. As a result, the scenery of Sakura Castle and the town dramatically changed.

Taizen Sato (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

After the arrival of Matthew Perry’s fleet in 1853, Masahiro Abe, who was the top of the government, asked anyone to suggest the country should be open or not. The answer of Masahiro was that the country should be open and trade with other countries, which was one of the advanced opinions then. Is it the cause of this?, Masayoshi was suddenly assigned the top of the government (the chief of the members of shogun’s council of elders) in 1855. One of his tasks was to negotiate with Townsend Harris, the council of the U.S. about the trade treaty. Masahiro actively dealt with Harris because both wanted to improve opening the country. The treaty was still unequal one, for example, Japan didn’t have its tariff autonomy. On the other hand, Masahiro decided to open Yokohama Port which would become a worldwide port.

The portrait of Masahiro Abe, owned by Fukuyama Seshikan High School (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Townsend Harris (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Even after the deal with Harris was done, Masahiro still would need to handle a more difficult process. It was to get approval of the treaty from many relative lords in the government. When Toshikatsu Doi was the top, the system was simpler than the period of Masayoshi. However, the system had completely changed. The result was that only 4 of the 18 relative lords approved it. Masahiro’s second option was to be approved by the emperor, which had ever not been done, but would be effective to the other lords. He visited the imperial court in Kyoto in 1558 to persuade the emperor and the nobles but failed. This was because it was found that the emperor Komei himself hated opening the country.

The portrait of Naosuke Ii, owned by Hikone Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Masayoshi was unfortunately fired, and the matter of the treaty was followed by Naosuke Ii. He went back to the hall of Sakura Castle and lived there as his retirement until his death in 1864. After the Meiji Restoration, the castle was used as a base of the Japanese Imperial Army. The mission of the base was to guard the eastern areas of Tokyo, the new imperial capital and the later shogun’s capital. That meant the role of the castle was the same between the Edo Period and the Meiji Era. After World War II, it became Sakura Castle Park and part of the park is used as National Museum of Japanese Histories. The location of the castle is very suitable for such a large museum.

The statue of Masayosho Hotta in the third enclosure of Sakura Castle
The miniature model of Sakura Castle when the Japanese Imperial Army used it, exhibited by the National Museum of Japanese Histories
Sakura Castle Park
The National Museum of Japanese Histories

To be continued in “Sakura Castle Part2”

51.Azuchi Castle Part2

The ruins of Azuchi Castle have become a National special historic site. There is a square in front of them, however, there were water moats and stone walls in the past. Azuchi Castle was located between Kyoto and Gifu Castle which was the previous home of Nobunaga Oda. Therefore, he could hurry to both sites immediately. In addition, he created the network of water transportation on Biwa Lake, including Azuchi and several his retainers’ castles. This article will introduce the tour course of the ruins while mixing with the mysteries of the castle in the previous article.

Features

The ruins of Azuchi Castle have become a National special historic site. There is a square in front of them, however, there were water moats and stone walls in the past. Azuchi Castle was located between Kyoto and Gifu Castle which was the previous home of Nobunaga Oda. Therefore, he could easily access both sites immediately. In addition, he created the network for water transportation on Biwa Lake, including Azuchi and several of his retainers’ castles. This article will introduce the path of the ruins while incorporating with the mysteries of the castle in the previous article.

The diorama of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum

Walking up on the Main Route

Before climbing the route, let us check out other historical items around the main gate ruins. They are the four gate ruins, including the main gate. Three of the four gates had a simple design which was not strong. The eastern gate and central gate (which was the main gate) had a simple design. Meanwhile, there were a simple gate, and the other had complex design, in line in the western place. You can see both ruins with the remaining stone walls. You can pass straight through the simple gate while you need to turn twice to pass the complex one. So, why did Nobunaga build the two different gates so closely together?

The ruins of the main gate
The ruins of the eastern gate
The ruins of the western gates (the complex one on the left and the simple one on the right)

Let us go back to the main route and walk on it. You need to pay an admission fee to Sokenji Temple who owns the ruins. Then, you can walk up on the impressive stone steps towards the top. The route may still make the current visitors feel special because they can see the route. However, the past visitors must have seen the main tower of the castle above.

The toll gate
The stone steps of the route
The imaginary drawing of the main route of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Gifu Castle

As you walk, you will see several ruins of Nobunaga’s retainers’ residences on both sides. For example, there were Hideyoshi Hashiba’s residence on the left, and Toshiie Maeda’s one on the right. However, the owners’ names are only speculative, and some believe it came from the Edo Period, not the same period as the castle. In addition, Hideyoshi’s residence ruins consist of two tiers. Some argue that the two tiers were from different residences from each other. They speculate the Oda family might have renovated them and used them as their government office after Nobunaga died and the main tower of the castle was eventually burned down.

The ruins of Hideyoshi Hashiba’s residence
The signboard of the residence
The ruins of Toshiie Maeda’s residence

You will eventually see the main hall of Sokenji Temple, which was said to have been the residence of Ieyasu Tokugawa who was Nobunaga’s ally. However, as mentioned above, it’s only a speculation. According to records, he stayed in another temple when he came to Azuchi.

The main hall of Sokenji Temple (the former residence of Ieyasu Tokugawae)

The straight route eventually zigzags on the way which may have been designed for the defensive purposes. The current stone steps were restored in the present time, using original stones. Some of them are stones from Buddha statues, which are stated in Japanese letters “石仏” beside them. The builders of the castle were able to get enough stones from mountains nearby. So, why did they use the stone statues in these prominent areas?

One of the stone statues which are used in the route, Notice the donation cup with “Suntory” labeled on it next to the sign

The route will eventually reach a plain area which is called the ruins of Nobutada Oda’s residence. This place was used as the temple’s facility after the castle was abandoned. That’s why there are very few remaining items of the castle. However, historians speculate that this place must have been reinforced by stone walls. This is because this is the crossroad of the important routes of the castle, the main route, the side route, the route towards the lake, and the one towards the center.

The ruins of Nobutada Oda’s residence

Going to Center of the Castle

Next, let us go to the center of the castle. After climbing the stone steps for a while, you will eventually see the ruins of a great gate. This is the ruins of Kurogane-mon, which mean “iron gate”, to the center. The ruins still have a square space, called “Masugata”, built using huge stones, which looks strong. “Shincho-koki”, which is the most reliable biography of Nobunaga says it is “Omote-no-gomon” which means “front gate”. Therefore, it was definitely the front gate of the castle.

The ruins of Kurogane-mon Gate

After entering the gate ruins, you will eventually see a lot of stone walls around. One of the breakthrough points of Azuchi Castle was the construction of these stone walls for buildings on them. The builders of the castle collected huge number of stones around and used larger ones at the center. The stones, which are natural or roughly processed, were piled up high to become the stone walls in a method called “Nozura-zumi”. They look unstable but are joined together securely. The stone craftsmen, who could operate the Nozura-zumi method, would later be called, “Ano-shu”.

The stone walls of the second enclosure, Notice the large gaps between the stones

Looking around these great stone walls, you will eventually pass the ruins of the second and third gates one after the other. Then, you will arrive at Ninomaru-higashi-damari which means “eastern gathering place of the second enclosure”. The main enclosure is on the right (to east) and the second enclosure is on the left (to west).

The Ninomaru-higashi-damari gathering place

There is the grave of Nobunaga Oda at the second enclosure to the left, which Hideyoshi built the following year of the Honnnoji Incident. The route to the grave in the enclosure was also built at that time. Historians speculate the place, where the grave was built, had been the residence of Nobunaga and his family. If you look at the top of the grave, you will notice a simple stone, which is not appropriate for the great lord. This is because the top of the graves of such great warlords are usually built like a tower. The stone may look like the Bonsan stone which would be the icon of Nobunaga. Noone knows if the stone is authentic, but at least, the builder would have known about it.

The grave of Nobunaga Oda
The stone on the top

Going back to the Ninomaru-higashi-damari gathering place, you can now go to the main enclosure. The place was originally called “Oshirasu” which means “waiting area”. The area to the enclosure is empty now. However, according to the Shincho-koki biography, there was another gate, and also a hall called “Nanden”. The hall was thought to include waiting rooms, agent rooms, and meeting rooms. That may have been one of the origins for typical castle halls like the second enclosure hall of Nijo Castle.

Thin would have been the Nanden hall ahead, there would have been a gate in front
The aerial photo of the second enclosure main hall of Nijo Castle (Google Map)

The main enclosure only has few stone foundations, some trees, and the stools for visitors. There must have been the hall or room for the royal visit somewhere inside. There are also the stone walls of the third enclosure just behind the trees, where another hall for the guest was built. The enclosure must have been a good viewing spot; however, the current visitors unfortunately cannot access this area.

The current main enclosure
The center of the diorama above, showing the second enclosure, the main tower ruins, the main enclosure, and the third enclosure (from the left to the right), exhibited by Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum

Going to the Main Tower Base

If you want to go the main tower base from the main enclosure, you will need to pass through Honmaru-Toritsuke-dai (which means the mounting base of the main enclosure) by climbing some stone steps. The mounting base is now an open space but used to have a building on it, which was connected with other buildings of the main enclosure with roofed passages. If you go on the space, you will see an excavation site beside the tower base. Shiga Prefecture launched the excavation in 2023, which is called “the great research of Reiwa”. The purpose is to reveal what the main tower looked like and why it was burned down. So far, it found that the stone wall base was partially destroyed intentionally after the tower was lost. The excavation team speculates that it might have been done when the castle was abandoned.

The excavation site (close to the public)
The northern side of the tower base which is being researched currently

Let us walk up on the stone steps towards the tower base. You should check out the surface of the steps, which is covered with tiles. These tiles were made of Shakudani-ishi stones which came from Echizen Province (the current Fukui Prefecture). The stones are blue green in color and turns deep blue when it rains. They are still one of the specialties of the prefecture and is the prefectural stone. The stones of the tiles were said to have been given by Katsuie Shibata who was a senior vassal of Nobnaga and owned the province. They had just conquered the province, so the tiles may have been built as the symbol of their conquest.

The surface of the steps, which is made from the Shakudani-ishi stones

The stone steps will eventually lead to the basement of the tower, which was the storehouse. Now, there are only the stone foundations inside. It is still mysterious what the main tower and other buildings of the castle might have looked like. Shiga Prefecture states that Azuchi Castle was the first Japanese castle that contained the three important items at the same time: a high main tower, high stone walls, and buildings with rooftiles. In addition, some rooftiles with golden leaves were discovered in the center of the castle. Historians also say they are the first case amongst Japanese castles. For reference, the same kind of rooftiles were discovered in Gifu Castle which was the previous home of Nobunaga. However, they cannot be confirmed to have been made during the same period as Nobunaga. This is because Gifu Castle was used even after Azuchi Castle was abandoned.

The inside of the tower base
Some of the discovered broken rooftiles at the site, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum

The great research of Reiwa also involves seeking for the picture where Azuchi Castle was drawn. It is called Azuchi-san-zu-Byobu which means the screens of the illustration of Azuchi Mountain. It was given as a present by Nobunaga to the Roman Pope, who certainly displayed it in the Vatican Palace, but was unfortunately misplaced. The prefecture has been seeking it but was not successful. However, they have started again with the research as a starting point. If the picture can be found, it would be the most convincing evidence that the main tower existed.

The imaginary drawing of the Azuchi-san-zu-Byobu screens, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Museum

Sokenji Temple is still Mysterious

If you go back from the center to the ruins of Nobutada Oda’s residence, the route for visitors is eventually led to the ruins of Sokenji Temple. This is where the Bonsan stone was placed, according to Luis Frois. There are the ruins of the former main hall of the temple on a hill. The stone was placed on the second floor, which was the highest point of the temple. The place might have been considered the best spot for the icon of Nobunaga who reigned at the top of the main tower. After Nobunaga died, the main hall was renovated but was unfortunately burned down by an accidental fire during the Edo Period. If the hall survived the fire, one mystery about Nobunaga would have been solved.

The ruins of the main hall

Azuchi Mountain including the castle was partially surrounded by Nishinoko-Lake which is a branch of Biwa Lake. However, they were disconnected during the Showa Era because the lake was reclaimed to the farms. You can still see a good view of the lake from the hill.

The view from the ruins

The three-level tower and Nio-mon Gate (the front gate) of the temple managed to survive the fire. Both have been designated as National Important Cultural Properties. If fact, they were older than other castle buildings of Azuchi even when it was first established. This was because the temple buildings were collected from other temples by Nobunaga. The route through the buildings was the side route of the castle, which was popular. According to the Shincho-koki biography, the route was very crowded with people to celebrate the new-year event of 1582 (according to the luna calendar). The new-year event was the last for Nobunaga who was killed within the same year.

The remaining three-level tower
The remaining Nio-mon Gate (notice the two NIO satues on the side)

The tour route will lead to the side route of another going around the mountain.
The entrance of the side route cannot be used because the temple wants to control the crowd. Our route will eventually return to the ruins of Hideyoshi Hashiba’s residence near the toll gate.

The side route to the entrance is closed
The route around the mountain, watch your step because the terrain is very rugged
Arriving at the residence ruins

My Impression

The more you think about the mysteries of Azuchi Castle, the more they may become mysterious. That is my honest impression. However, I enjoy thinking and speculating about each mystery. Nobunaga had a very unorthodox way of thinking back then. Therefore, you might not find the answers by just using the conventional knowledge. In my opinion, the unsloved mystery of Azuchi Castle is what makes it unique. We just have to wait for more convincing proof in the future.

Azuchi Mountain (Appromixately 190 meters above sea level)

Furthermore, I recommend visiting other several historical museums around Azuchi Castle, to help you uncover the mystery.

The inside of Azuchi Castle Museum
Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum
Nobunaga no Yakata Museum, inside you will find the model of the 6th and 7th floor of the main tower, Photography is allowed, however, the museum doesn’t want pictures to be published online, therefore I cannot include them on this blog

That’s all. Thank you.

Back to “Azuchi Castle Part1”

204.佐和山城 その2

今回この記事では、彦根駅から佐和山城跡まで徒歩でいく場合の道順をご紹介します。城跡がある佐和山は、彦根駅の東口方面となります。改札から東口に出る途中に、石田三成と佐和山上のディスプレイがあって、気分が盛り上がります。東口から出たすぐのところに佐和山城跡の標識があります。

ここに行くには

今回この記事では、彦根駅から佐和山城跡まで徒歩でいく場合の道順をご紹介します。城跡がある佐和山は、彦根駅の東口方面となります。改札から東口に出る途中に、石田三成と佐和山上のディスプレイがあって、気分が盛り上がります。東口から出たすぐのところに佐和山城跡の標識があります。

彦根駅内の石田三成と佐和山城のディスプレイ
彦根駅東口
東口前の標識

駅から見て、駅前通りを左(北)に進み、突き当たった所を左に曲がります。案内版もあります。車道は高架になって鉄道を越えますが、われわれは脇道を進みます。

駅前通り
通りの突き当たり
脇道を歩いていきます

踏切を渡ると、また案内板がありますので、右に曲がって高架をくぐります。すると、道が二又に分かれますので、左の方に進みます。わかりづらいですが、左側のポールの上に案内が表示されています。

踏切
右に曲がったところです
二又に分かれる地点

そこからは、水路に沿って道が進むので、迷うことはないと思います。右手に佐和山も見えてきます。

水路に沿って進みます
佐和山

そのうちに公園らしい風景になってきて、佐和山城跡の看板が見えます。東山公園です。天守の模型や駐車場もあって、着いたような感覚になりますが、城跡はもう少し先です。

道は公園に至ります
「佐和山城跡」の看板
東山公園

先に進むときれいな道に出ます。井伊家の菩提寺、清凉寺・龍潭寺が並んでいます。そして、城跡登り口(ハイキングコース入口)に到着です。

お寺が並ぶ道
清涼寺
城跡登り口(ハイキングコース入口)周辺

特徴、見どころ

ハイキングコースに挑む!

佐和山城は歴史が長いので、山の峰上に多くの曲輪(区画)が作られました。城跡にはハイキングコース設定されていますが、カバーしているのは、曲輪群の一部です。山はお寺の所有になっているので、コースを外れないようにしましょう。コースの最初の部分は、城の北側を走っていた昔の街道と重なっているようです。

佐和山城城跡マップ、「佐和山城跡のご案内」彦根観光協会パンフレットより引用

それでは、ハイキングコースに進みましょう。ハイキングコースは、龍潭寺の境内を通るので、時間制限があります。石田三成像がお出迎えです。そして、寺の山門を入っていきます。

ハイキングコース入口
ハイキングコースの注意書き
石田三成像
龍潭寺山門

山に入るときに見える谷の部分は自然物に見えますが、敵の移動を防ぐための竪堀だったようです。自然の谷を利用して、更に加工したのかもしれません。

山の入口にある竪堀

少し登ると、切通しに着きます。街道が山の峰を抜けていくためと、城にとっては端っこを守る意味もあったのでしょう。関ケ原の戦い後の佐和山城攻めのときには、この道の両側から東軍が攻めてきたそうです。

切通し

ここからハイキングコースは山の峰を登っていきます。城としては「西の丸」に当たり、3段の曲輪で構成されていました。各段の間には、それぞれ竪堀も掘られていました。東軍に攻められた時には、河瀬織部という三成の家臣が守っていたそうです。

峰の上を登っていきます
西の丸上段に残る竪堀

まず、下段の曲輪に着きます。「塩硝櫓跡」という標柱があり、その後ろには大穴が開いています。説明パネルには「塩櫓」とありましたので、塩か火薬の蔵だったのでしょう。

西の丸下段曲輪(塩硝櫓跡)
説明パネルには「塩櫓」とあります

登り続けると、「西の丸」の説明パネルがある上段曲輪に着きます。上の方に、土塁の高まりのようなものがあるので、行ってみましょう。土塁が壁のようになっています。そこから見ると、上段曲輪がお見通しです。どんな風に守っていたかがわかります。

「西の丸」説明パネル
背後にある土塁の高まり
土塁の壁
土塁から上段曲輪を見ています

本丸に到着!

いよいよ本丸に行きますが、そこまでは本当にハイキングです。本丸には残念ながら、お城らしさは全然ありません。城の石碑があるくらいです。彦根城築城のときに、建物・石垣ごと持ち去られてしまったのですから仕方ないでしょう。

本丸にある石碑

しかし、山麓からの高さは130メートルくらいありますので、景色はすばらしいです。彦根城もばっちり見えます(本丸から西方)。

本丸から見える彦根城

北の方の景色もすばらしく、琵琶湖がきれいです。

本丸から見える琵琶湖

登ってきたのと反対側に「南口降り口」の案内板があります。城跡マップ(ハイキングコース)には、別の登山口の案内はありませんが、マップ上の「隅石垣」の方向なので、そちらに行ってみましょう。

「南口降り口」の案内板
本丸南側の地図、滋賀県教育委員会「埋蔵文化財活用ブックレット5(近江の城郭1) 佐和山城跡」より引用

本丸を下ると、少し平らなところに出ます。「石垣」という標柱がありますが、「隅石垣」のことを言っているのでしょう。そちらの方向に行くと、四角い大石が2つあります。これが隅石垣で、本丸石垣隅の基礎部分と考えられます。よく残っていたと思いますが、埋もれていたか、取り出すのが危険だったのか、どうなのでしょう。

「石垣」の標柱
隅石垣

もう一つ下るとまた平らな場所があって、その先が「千貫井」です。山の上にあるので「千貫」の価値があるほど貴重な井戸だったのでしょう。それで長い籠城戦にも耐えられたのです。しかし、現場は荒れている感じがします。戦前(第二次大戦前)に掘り返されてしまった影響もあるのでしょう(「近江佐和山城・彦根城」による情報)。

千貫井

千貫井から戻ったところの平地が、ハイキングコースの最後のポイント「登城道」のようです。近くには「女郎谷」という案内もあります。関ケ原後のこの城での戦いのとき、本丸には石田三成の父・正継たちがいて、よく敵を防いでいました。ところが敵に内応する者が出て、天守は炎上、正継たちは自害しました。そして逃げ惑う子女たちが身を投げたのが、この先にある女郎谷だということです。

「登城道」と思われる場所
「女郎谷」の案内

ハイキングコースは「登城道」から同じ道を戻る設定になっているので、コース入口に戻ります。

プラスアルファにチャレンジ!

駅への帰り道に他のスポットにも行ってみましょう。まず「石田三成屋敷跡」があります。来るときに通った東山公園のところを曲がって、山の方に行きます。下から見た「佐和山城跡」看板の裏を通っていきます。

東山公園、この手前を左(山の方)に曲がります
城跡看板の裏を通ります

しばらく行くと、石垣が見えてきます。城跡への案内板がありますが、ちょっと変です。その近くに「石田三成屋敷跡」の石碑がありました。例の石垣は史跡ではないようです。もしあったら彦根城に持っていかれてしまったでしょうから。

謎の石垣
石垣の前には案内板
石垣から少し離れたところに石碑があります
石田三成屋敷跡

本日最後のチャレンジは登山道「南口」探しです。旧中山道の国道8号線に出たら、登山口らしい場所がありました。「石田三成 佐和山城跡」という案内板がありますが、「南口」とは書かれていません。位置関係から言えば、ここが南口なのでしょう。

登山道南口?
現地にある案内板

閉鎖はされていませんし、近くに法華丸(曲輪の一つ)がありますので、少しだけ行ってみましょう。竹林がきれいです。段々に整地されていますので、これが法華丸の一部ではないでしょうか。

竹林に囲まれた遺跡
法華丸跡か?

私の感想

佐和山城は「徹底的に破壊された」とよく言われますが、残っているものは意外とあるということがわかりました。今後整備されて見学できる場所が増えるといいと思います。実は、大手門跡にも行ってみたかったのですが、今回は彦根駅からの徒歩であり、遠くなるのでパスしました。次の機会に行ってみたいです。

大手門跡、彦根観光協会ホームページから引用

また、琵琶湖を擁する滋賀県は、今でも多くの名物(近江牛、鮒ずし、赤こんにゃく、ニジマス、サラダパン、バウムクーヘンなど)があり、豊かな国と言えるでしょう。

琵琶湖岸
近江牛料理の一例

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「佐和山城その1」に戻ります。

今回の内容を趣向を変えて、Youtube にも投稿しました。よろしかったらご覧ください。