162.Izushi Castle/Arikoyama Castle Part3

Next comes Izushi Castle Ruins. Visitors usually first go across Tojo-bashi Bridge over Taniyama-gawa River in front of the ruins and enter Tojo-mon Gate. You will climb gentle stone steps while seeing great stone walls of the Second Enclosure on the left.

Features

Easy Route to Izushi Castle Ruins

Next comes Izushi Castle Ruins which casual visitors can easily get to. The ruins consist of several tiered enclosures at the foot of the mountain. Visitors usually first go across Tojo-bashi (meaning the bridge for going to the castle) over Taniyama-gawa River in front of the ruins and enter Tojo-mon (meaning the gate for going to the castle). You will climb gentle stone steps while seeing great stone walls of the Second Enclosure on the left. The stones used for the walls look more processed and newer than those of Arikoyama Castle on the mountain, because of the difference of their periods. The enclosure is empty now, which was used as the domain’s offices.

The map around the castle

The Tojo-bashi Gate
The Tojo-mon Gate
The stone walls of the second enclosure on the left
The top on the second enclosure

The main enclosure is above the second enclosure, which has two rebuilt turrets on both front corners (called the Eastern and Western Corner Turrets). Their designs are different from the original ones, but are made out of wood in a traditional way and look good matching the remaining stone walls.

The Western Corner Turret
The interior of the Western Corner Turrret, it is sometimes open to the public
The Eastern Corner Turret

There was the Main Hall in the enclosure, and is now Kannoden Shrine instead, which worships Hisahide Sengoku, the founder of the clan.

The top of the main enclosure
The Kannoden Shrine

Inari Enclosure at Highest of Castle

The Inari Enclosure is at the highest of the castle. It also has the highest stone walls in the castle at 13.5m. This is very rare among Japanese castles as other castles’ main enclosures are usually at the highest and have the greatest stone walls in the castle. The Arikoyama Shrine building has been constructed in the Inari Enclosure since the early stage of the castle. The current building was rebuilt during the late Edo Period and looks very old.

The high stone walls of the Inari Enclosure on the right
The Arikoyama Inari Shrine
A view from the enclosure

Attractions of Castle Town

Part of the old castle town is the former third enclosure which had the Main, Eastern and Western Gates. You can still see the partially remaining stone walls of the Main and Western Gates there. You can also visit Karo Yashiki (meaning the Senior Vassal’s Residence) which is the only remaining Samurai residence in this area. It is interesting that it looks like a single-storied house, but in fact, it has a secret chamber as the second floor.

The map around the castle town

The stone walls of the Main Gate
The stone walls of the Western Gate
The Karo-Yashiki Residence
The hidden second floor of the residence, the host on the right can see who is coming from the steps on the left through the hole in the central wall

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Izushi Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished in 1871. Instead, locals built a new drum tower called Shinkoro at the Main Gate in the same year. The tower was turned into a clock tower in 1881 and has become a symbol of the area. The area once declined because it deviated from a railway line. However, locals made great efforts to boost tourism by rebuilding castle buildings, promoting Izushi Soba noodles, Izushi Pottery which originated from the castle’s period, and so on. The area was also designated as a Preservation District for Groups of Historic Buildings in 2007. As a result, the area has become an attractive traditional town as we can see now.

The Shinkoro Tower
Izushi Soba Noodles, they are usually served on a plate

My Impression

As a fact, visiting the Izushi area takes a lot of time no matter which transportation you take. However, lots of people often visit the area. That’s because there are many attractions including the two castle ruins of Izushi and Akikoyama. Other attractions also came from the long history of this area. In my case, I would like to visit that place again to get to the ruins of Konosumi-yama Castle which the Yamana Clan first lived and I didn’t know about during my last visit. Other than castles and ruins, I would also like to buy another Izushi Pottery which has white skin and engraved patterns.

A street of the castle town
Izushi Pottery

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about a 30-minute drive away from Wadayama IC on the Bantan Renkaku Road.
There are several parking lots around Izushi Castle Ruins.
By public transportation, you can take the Zentan bus bound for Izushi from JR Toyooka Station and get off at the final bus stop.
From Tokyo to Toyooka Station: take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Sanin Line at Kyoto Station.

The Toyooka Station, the bus terminal is around the center

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Izushi Castle/Arikoyama Castle Part1”
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162.出石城・有子山城 その3

次に、出石城跡の紹介をします。最初は城跡の手前にある谷山川にかかる登城橋を渡り、登城門に入っていきます。そして、左側に二の丸の立派な石垣を見ながら、緩い石段を登っていきます。

特徴、見どころ

気軽に行ける出石城跡

次に、出石城跡の紹介をします。ここは気軽に訪ねることができます。この城跡は、山の麓にある何段もの曲輪群から構成されています。ビジターは通常、最初は城跡の手前にある谷山川にかかる登城橋を渡り、登城門に入っていきます。そして、左側に二の丸の立派な石垣を見ながら、緩い石段を登っていきます。その石垣に使われている石は、山上の有子山城のものよりも加工され且つ新しく見えます。築かれた時代の違いが見て取れます。二の丸の内部には現在は何もありませんが、かつては藩庁の建物がありました。

城周辺の地図

登城門
登城門
左側が二の丸の石垣
二の丸内部

本丸は、二の丸の上方にあり、前面の両端に都合2基の再建された櫓(東隅櫓と西隅櫓)があります。これらの櫓の姿は、もともと本丸にあった建物とは違っていますが、木材を使った伝統的工法により建てられ、現存する石垣ともよく調和しています。

西隅櫓
西隅櫓の内部、時折公開されます
東隅櫓

本丸にはかつて御殿がありました。現在はその代わりに感応殿(かんのうでん)という神社が建っていて、最後の領主であった仙石氏の初代、仙石久秀を祀っています。

本丸内部
感応殿

もっとも高いところにある稲荷曲輪

稲荷曲輪は、城ではもっとも高い位置にあります。また、13.5mのもっとも高い石垣の上にあります。他の日本の城では通常、本丸がもっとも高い位置で、もっとも高い石垣がある場所なので、出石城のケースはとても珍しいと言えます。ここにある有子山稲荷神社の建物は、城の初期段階から存在していて、現在の建物は江戸後期に再建されたものですが、とても古風に見えます。

稲荷曲輪の高石垣(右側)
有子山稲荷神社
稲荷曲輪からの景色

城下町の見どころ

城下町の一部は、以前三の丸だったところで、大手門、東門、西門が設けられていました。大手門と西門があったところには、一部残っている石垣を見ることができます。また、この地区で唯一残っている武家屋敷である「家老屋敷」を見学することができます。この屋敷で面白いことは、平屋建てのように見えるのですが、実は二階部分として隠し部屋が設けられていることです。

城下町周辺の地図

大手門石垣
西門石垣
家老屋敷
家老屋敷の隠し二階、右側にいる主人が左側の階段から誰が来るのか真ん中の壁穴を通してわかるようになっています

その後

明治維新後、出石城は廃城となり、1871年には城の全ての建物が撤去されました。地元の人たちはその代わりに同年、蜃鼓楼(しんころう)という名の太鼓台を、大手門のところに新しく建設しました。1881年には時計台に変わるのですが、この地区のシンボル的な存在になっています。出石地区は鉄道路線から外れてしまったことで一時衰退するのですが、城の建物を再建したり、城があった時代に始まった出石そばや出石焼を宣伝することなどにより、観光業に力を注ぎました。また2007年には、伝統的建造物群保存地区に指定されています。その結果、魅力的な古い街並みが今でも見られる観光地となったのです。

蜃鼓楼
出石そば、通常は皿そばにして何杯も食べるスタイルです

私の感想

事実として、出石地区に行くには、どのような交通手段を使っても結構時間がかかります。しかし、それでも多くの観光客がここを訪れています。それは、出石と有子山という2つの城跡を含む、多くの見どころ、名物名産があるからでしょう。城跡以外のものも、この地区の長い歴史に根ざしています。私の場合は、出石にまた行くのであれば、山名氏が最初に本拠地とし、最初訪れたときには知らなかった此隅山城跡に行ってみたいです。また、城巡り以外のことでは、白い地肌と彫刻が特徴的な出石焼を再度購入したいと思っています。

出石の街並み
出石焼

ここに行くには

車で行く場合:播但連絡道路の和田山ICから約30分かかります。
出石城跡の周辺にいくつか駐車場があります。
公共交通機関を使う場合は、JR豊岡駅から出石行きの全但バスに乗って、終点まで行ってください。
東京から豊岡駅まで:東海道新幹線に乗って、京都駅で山陰本線に乗り換えてください。

豊岡駅、真ん中辺りがバス乗り場

リンク、参考情報

出石城跡、豊岡市観光公式サイト
絶景を求めて出石城下町からハイキング!【有子山】、豊岡市観光公式サイト
・「よみがえる日本の城19」学研
・「シリーズ中世西国武士の研究5 山陰山名氏/市川裕士編著」戒光祥出版
・「山陰・山陽の戦国史/渡邊大門著」ミネルヴァ書房
・「城郭研究の新展開1 但馬竹田城/城郭談話会編」戒光祥出版
・「築城の名手 藤堂高虎/福井健二著」戒光祥出版

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「出石城・有子山城その1」に戻ります。
「出石城・有子山城その2」に戻ります。

112.Kasama Castle Part3

Due to the damage from the Great East Japan Earthquake back in 2011, it is prohibited to enter the top of the ruins as of November 2023. The city is considering how to repair it to open it to the public again.

Features

Main and Main Tower Enclosures as Center of Castle

The Main Enclosure is an empty space now, where the Main Hall was built in the past. Instead, long and high earthen walls at the southwestern side stands out, which are called Hachiman-dai(base). There was Hachiman-dai Turret on it as a lookout tower or a warehouse. The turret was moved to Shinjoji Temple at the foot after the castle was abandoned, which is consider the only remaining building of the castle. The view from the base or the enclosure is not so good because of the trees surrounding, but you can see the mountains or hills around.

The map of the main portion of the castle

The inside of the Main Enclosure
The Hachiman-dai Base
The top of the base
The ruins of the Hachiman-dai Turret
The turret was moved from the original position to the temple

The final place of the castle is the Main Tower Enclosure on the top over the edge of the earthen wall base to the northeast. You can go on the narrow earthen bridge over the ditch in front of the enclosure and reach the foot of the three-tier stone walls of it. The original Main Tower, which had been built on it, was replaced with the Sashino Shrine building during the Meiji Era. It was said that the waste materials of the tower were used for the construction of the shrine. The stone walls seem to partially use large natural rocks, which look rough and wild. However, visitors are unfortunately not allowed to climb the walls to see the top because the walls might collapse as of November 2023. You can only see a glimpse of the shrine building on the stone walls from the foot.

The earthen bridge in front of the Main Tower Enclosure
Going to the enclosure
The stone walls of the enclosure partially collapsed
You can not enter from here
The glimpse of the shrine building

Returning to Foot by taking another route

You can return to the parking lot at the foot of the mountain going the same way as you took, but there is another route you can try as well but it’s challenging. You can take a trail on the ridge over the earthen wall base opposite the Main Tower Enclosure. The ridge was a defensive point of the castle, where another turret, called Anagasaki Yagura, was built. If you climb down on the trail for a while, the return route goes the bottom of a deep dry moat. This is part of the outer dry moat surrounding the whole castle area, which Satonari Gamo built. You can feel how large it was by walking through it.

The map around the castle

The Hachiman-dai Base
The ruins of the Anagasaki Turret
Climbing down other entrance ruins
Looking back at the ruins
Here comes the outer dry moats
The trail meets the dry moats
The inside of the dry moats

You will finally arrive at the ruins of the suburban residences at the foot, which Naganao Asano built. They have become the Sashiro Sanroku(foot of the mountain) Park which has the Bell Tower including an old bell made at the end of the Edo Period. The parking lot as is your starting point just below the park.

The ruins of the suburban residences (Sashiro Sanroku Park)
The Bell Tower
You can see the parking lot at the foot below

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Kasama Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished or moved like the Hachiman-dai Turret. The mountain area became part of Kasama Prefectural Natural Park and the foot area became the Sashiro Sanroku Park. Kasama City has been researching the castle ruins since 2013 to preserve and to be designated as a national or other historical site in the near future. However, due to the damage from the Great East Japan Earthquake back in 2011, it is prohibited to enter the top of the ruins. The city is also considering how to repair it to open it to the public again.

The current Hachiman-dai Turret
It looks like just being placed on the newer base

My Impression

There are many attractions of Kasama Castle and the city. In my cases, once I visited and learned about the castle, I wanted to go there again to try seeing what I had missed or other ways to visit. When I first visited the ruins, I got to the great stone walls on top but they partially collapsed. In my recent visit, they were finally covered with sheets and kept out for visitors. I was very sorry about it and hope it will be repaired to open to the public soon.

The Main Tower Enclosure as of 2019
The Sashino Shrine building on the enclosure as of 2019

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about a 20-minute drive away from Tomobe IC on the Kitakanto Expressway.
There are parking lots at foot and the mid slope of the mountain as mentioned above.
By public transportation, you can take the sightseeing tour bus from JR Tomobe Station and get off at the Nichido-bijutsukan bus stop near the park.
From Tokyo to Tomobe Station: take the Tokiwa limited express from Tokyo or Ueno Stations.

That’s all. Thank you.
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