Let me first introduce you two courses going towards the current Okayama Castle. The first one is the course going to the front side of the castle from Okayama Station. The second one is that going to the back side along the riverside of Asahigawa. After reaching the castle, let us enter the restored main tower of the castle. By going to The Okayama Korakuen Garden, you will feel like the lord of the castle.
The statue of Momotaro in front of Okayama Station, Momotoro “Peach Boy” is a mythological folklore
The Course to the Front side from Okayama Station
It takes about 2km from Okayama Station to the castle. Therefore, it may be a good idea for you to use the city tram or a rental bicycle.
The city tramThe bicycles of Momochari rental system
If you go straight along Momotaro-Odori Street from the station, you will eventually find the area around the street turning into the city area. However, you will also find some explanation panels which say there were the outer moat or the middle moat.
The ruins of the outer moatThe ruins of the middle moat
You will eventually arrive at the end of the street, which was inside the inner moat in the past. I recommend you turn to the right because you will soon see the Nishite Turret on the western enclosure, which is one of the few remaining buildings of the castle. It has been designated as a National Important Cultural Property. The turret stood facing the moat.
The end of the street, Going left or right will lead you to the castle, but I highly recommend turning right in order to see the turretThe Nishite Turret on the western enclosure
Let us next walk around the western enclosure along the current roads. You will see the remaining stone walls of the enclosure along them. The roads you are walking on were the moats around the enclosure. You will eventually reach the ruins of Ishiyama-mon Gate. Its gate building was unfortunately burned down during World War II. The entrance of the gate was connected by a bridge on the moat to the outside in the past.
The stone walls of the western enclosureThe ruins of Ishiyama-mon Gate
If you go further, you will see the birthplace of the castle, called “Ishiyama-no-shiro” (which means Ishiyama Castle). However, the stone walls around it were built during the period of the Ikeda Clan, which was much later than when it had been born. If you go around it to the eastern entrance, you will notice it is used as a parking lot now. An interesting thing there is the view of the main tower from the west, which looks very narrow.
The Ishiyama Castle, just behind the stone walls is Ishiyama Castle. The top of the walls is also used as parking lotThe eastern entrance of the Ishiyama Castle, Notice the incline leading up to the castleThe main tower seen from the west
You will finally arrive at the main enclosure of the castle. You can go across the bridge over the inner moat, called “Meyasu-Bashi”. The front gate, called “Uchigeba-mon” has a square space being surrounded by its stone walls, called Masugata, though its building didn’t survive.
The Meyasu-Bashi BridgeThe front gate
The main enclosure has three tiers. They are called Hondan, Naka-no-dan, and Shita-no-dan from the top. The Naka-no-dan (which means the middle tier) has been extended during the Kobayakawa and Ikeda Periods. Therefore, the tier has mixed stone walls coming from both periods. If you walk on the lowest tier, the Shita-no-dan (which means the low tier), you will see the stone walls of Onando Turret. They were built during the Kobayakawa Period. The stone walls of the Hondan (which means the main tier) were also modified. When you see their connecting part to the middle tier, you will notice they look very complex. This was because the Kobayakawa and Ikeda Clans renovated them.
The ruins of Onando TurretThe stone walls of the middle tier seen from the lower tier
If you walk up on the ruins of Kurogane-mon gate, you will be at the middle tier. You will also see Akazu-no-mon Gate, the entrance of the main tier nearby.
The entrance to the middle tier on the left and the main tier on the rightThe ruins of Kurogane-mon gateThe Akazu-no-mon Gate
The Course to the Back side along Asahigawa River
Our next course will start from Kyobashi Bridge over Asahigawa River. The bridge was first built during the period of Hideie Ukita.
The Kyobashi BridgeThe piers of the Kobashi Bridge which were used during the Edo Period and are exhibited near the current bridge
If you go on the riverside, you will see the ruins of the eastern gate and Soken-yashiki Turret. They are over 500m from the center of the castle, so you can imagen how large the castle was. You will then find other ruins of a turret, which was located in a senior vassal’s residence at the second enclosure. The total number of the turrets were 30! You will eventually see the distant view of the main tower.
The ruins of the eastern gateThe ruins of Soken-yashiki TurretThe ruins of the turret, which was located in the senior vassal’s residenceThe main tower seen from the south
You should check out the amazing stone walls when you reach the main enclosure. They are called the high stone walls of the southeastern part of the main tier. They were piled up using natural stones in the method called Nozura-zumi during the Ukita period. Their height is about 15m which was one of the highest stone walls at that time. They look like those of Azuchi Castle, whose method was probably followed by Okayama Castle.
The high stone walls of the southeastern part of the main tier.The stone walls of Azuchi Castle
If you go further along the river towards the main tower, you will find the joint section of the stone walls of the Ukita and Kobayakawa Periods. The sizes of the stones used in the Kobayakawa Period are smaller than those in the Ukita Period. The reason for it is uncertain, but it might have come from an urgent construction by the Kobayakawa Clan. You will eventually arrive at the stone wall base of the main tower after passing a gate which was built during the Ikeda Period.
The left side was built during The Ukita Period, the right side of these stone walls were built during the Kobayakawa Period,The gate which was built during the Ikeda Period
Many of the stone of the base look burnt. This was because the original main tower collapsed into this side when it was burned down during World War II. These stone walls are a living witness to the Japanese history.
The stone wall base of the main towerLooking up at the main tower
You will soon enter the rebuilt back gate of the main enclosure, called Roka-mon, near the main tower. The inside of the gate is the middle tier of the enclosure.
The main tower seen from a viewing spotThe Roka-mon Gate
This article will describe how we visit the ruins of the encampments for the battle of Sekigahara (mainly of the Western Allies). We will finally go to the ruins of Matsuoyama Castle where Hideaki Kobayakawa was positioned.
Features
Introduction
This article will describe how we visit the ruins of the encampments for the battle of Sekigahara (mainly of the Western Allies). We will finally go to the ruins of Matsuoyama Castle where Hideaki Kobayakawa was positioned. In addition, as for the encampments of the Western Allies, we will visit them not only based on the defacto theory but also based on the new theories. Ogaki Castle may be a good starting point because the battle happened just after Mitsunari Ishida left the castle. You can see some exhibitions of him and the Sekigahara Battle in its restored main tower which has become a historical museum. Sekigahara Station is just few minutes from Ogaki Station.
The current Ogaki CastleAn example of its exhibitions insideSekigahara Station
Tour to Encampments of Western Allies based on Defacto Theory
It will be easy for visitors to visit the encampments based on the defacto theory because there are lots of information boards (also written in English). “Sekigahara Historical Landmark Tour” map, provided by the Sekigahara tourist association secretariat, will also help you. The following link is available in English. (https://www.sekigahara1600.com/download/file/20200109155151.pdf) So, let us first go to the encampment of Mitsunari Ishida on Sasaoyama Mountain, based on the defacto theory.
An example of the information boards
It may be better to go towards the Battle Site Memorial before reaching the mountain because you can find it easily. You can see the mountain where the flag of Mitsunari’s encampment stands.
The Battle Site Memorial, The flag on the right is Ieyasu’s family crest, while the flag on the left is Mitsunari’s family crestSasaoyama Mountain seen from the Battle Site Memorial, Notice the tiny white flags on the mountain
If you reach the foot of the mountain, you will eventually see that it was the encampment of Shima Sakon who was Mitsunari’s senior vassal. In fact, there is no evidence which proves that the mountain was certainly their encampments. The current historical sites were designated by the officials during the Meiji Era, probably based on the local traditions of the Edo Period. However, the top of the mountain looks suitable for the stronghold. You can see a panoramic view from the top, including Nangusan Mountain on the left, where Hiroie Kikkawa was positioned, and Matsuoyama Mountain on the right, where Hideaki was positioned. If Mitsunari would have been on the top, he would have been able to see any suspicious actions by the lord.
The encampment of Shima SakonThe entrance to Mitsnari’s encampmentThe stone monument of Mitsnari’s encampmentThe view from the mountain, The mountain on left is Nangusan and the mountain on the right is Matsouyama
Our next target will be the grave site of Yoshitsugu Otani, after passing the encampments of other lords of the Western Allies, such as Yoshihiro Shimazu, Yukinaga Konishi, and Hideie Ukita. You need to walk for few kilometers to reach the target. However, some soldiers who joined the battle testified that the lords were positioned together in the range of only few hundreds of meters. This is another mystery that his often debated by historians and experts.
The encampment of Yoshihiro ShimazuThe encampment of Yukinaga KonishiThe encampment of Hideie Ukita
You will eventually enter the Yamanaka area (which directly means “mountain area”), not like the Sekigahara field. There are actually some ruins of encampments, made by soil, which Yoshitsugu might have built. His grave is in the area, which is said that his retainer originally buried his head there. Takatora Todo, who had been his enemy, heard about it and developed the grave as we can see now. There are always offerings (such as flowers) in front of the grave, from his fans. This is probably because of his episodes in the battle. Yoshitsugu joined the Western Allies because of his friendship with Mitsunari but was defeated by the betrayal of Hideaki (according to the defacto theory).
The grave site of Yoshitsugu Otani
Tour to the Encampments of the Western Allies based on New Theories
Let us next go to the encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani from his grave nearby. His encampment has been designated based on the defacto theory while a new theory says it was, in fact, that of the Shimazu troops. By the way, there is the view spot of Matsuoyama Mountain near the encampment as well. You can see the flag of Hideaki’s encampment from that spot. I think the view is one of the reasons why Yoshitsugu’s encampment was designated nearby in the defacto theory. The theory says Yoshitsugu was positioned in order to better monitor the betrayal of Hideaki. On the other hand, in the new theory, Yoshitsugu was actually in the Sekigahara field, so another lord was expected to use the encampment instead of him.
The encampment of Yoshitsugu OtaniThe view spot of Matsuoyama MountainThe flag of the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa on Matsuoyama Mountain, seen from the view spot
We will next go to the encampment of Mitsunari Ishida, based on the new theory, after climbing down the mountain area. If you walk on the Old Nakasendo Road, you will eventually see a hill up ahead, which is the encampment, called “Jigai-ga-oka”. The hill is also a historical site of Jinshin War during the Ancient Time, called “Jigai-mine-no-sanbon-sugi” which means “The three cedars on Suicide Hill”. A tradition says as followed: Prince Otomo was defeated by Prince Oama during the war and killed himself in another place. People around the hill, who loved him, got his head and buried in the hill. The three cedars are said to be the mark, which you can visit and see.
Jigai-ga-oka HillThe three cedars on Suicide Hill, The two remaining cedar trees are not accessible however, because they have a chain fence around them
There is one more spot regarding both the Sekigahara Battle and the Jinshin War, after going on the road over Fujikogawa River. You can find Fuwanoseki Museum, which are the ruins of Fuwanoseki (which means Fuwa Gateway). The new theory says this spot was the encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani. In the Jinshin War, the gateway was the border between the forces of Otomo (the west) and Oama (the east). In the Sekigahara Battle, Sekigahara (which directly means “gateway field”) was that of the Western and Eastern Allies.
Fujikogawa River in the front and Fuwanoseki Museum on the hill in the backThe Fuwanoseki Museum as the ruins of Fuwa Gateway, which might have also been the encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani, The white flag says “Fuwa Gate” while the red flag says “Jinshin War”
We will get closer to Matsuoyama Mountain. There are lots of flags of the Kobayakawa Clan at its entrance. It has a nice atmosphere.
The entrance to Matsuoyama Mountain as the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa, The yellow flags show the family crest of Kobayakawa. The 4 flags on the left show two sickles crossing each other.
Going to Matsuoyama Mountain
Matsuoyama Mountain is 293m above sea level and about 200m above the foot of the mountain. If you drive your car, you can park it at the foot. The trail to the top is part of Tokai Natural Trail, which has been well developed. The number of Hideaki’s troops were said to be about 8,000 to 15,000. They were probably stationed from the foot all the way to the top. If the Toi-deppo story is true, the soldiers at the foot would have been able to hear it.
The starting point of the trail, Notice the basket of sticks which is free for visitors to use. Make sure you return it to the original basket after using itThe trail at the foot
Matsuoyama Castle is often called the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa, in fact, it was a full-scale castle. It had the main enclosure on the top and several other enclosures on its ridges. They were surrounded by earthen walls one by one and were divided by dry moats from each other. It also had ditches on the ridges and vertical moats on the slopes in order to prevent enemies from invading it. The castle was mostly fortified by the Western Allies just before the Sekigahara Battle. It was done using natural terrain and construction with soil.
The diorama of Matsuoyama Castle, exhibited by Sekigahara Town History & Folklore Museum
The trail looks like a well-developed forest road before turning into a fork. There is a sign which says 850m to the top. As you get close to the top, the trail goes beside a ridge which was the eastern enclosure of the castle. If you were an enemy back then, you would have been attacked by the defenders above.
Turn right, at the flag, Notice the drain on the road. When it rains, the water flows down the mountain, and goes to the drains850m to the topThe trail goes beside the eastern enclosure
You will eventually see several flags standing on the main enclosure of the top above. One of them is that of Hideaki Kobayakawa’s encampment, which you saw from the view spot of Matsuoyama Mountain. The view from the top is so nice that you will be encouraged to stop and stare for a while. It would have been the view of Kobayakawa according to the defacto theory.
The top will be soonThe main enclosure on the topThe flag of the encampment of Hideaki KobayakawaThe view of the Sekigahara field from the top of Matsuoyama Mountain, It would have been great if the town decided to cut the trees so that viewers could get a better view of Sekigahara Field
Is it a Castle or is it an Encampment?
Let us check out if Matsuoyama Castle is worth for a full-scale castle at the site. In fact, the opposite side of the trail we climbed looks more fortified, according to the pamphlet of Matsuoyama Castle. (unfortunately, the pamphlet is only available in Japanese) We will enter the castle from the side.
The layout of the castle (from the pamphlet of Matsuoyama Castle), we first came from above
The path of the entrance gets narrower by being cut by the ditches on both sides. You will next pass an enclosure like a position, which is called the enclosure like Umadashi (the position which sticks out from the gate).
The narrow entranceThe enclosure like Umadashi
The path gets narrower again and wind towards the main enclosure. The entrance of the main enclosure is a square, surrounded by earthen walls, which is generally called Masugata. The route you walked on right now may be the front of the castle, where Hideaki might have also been at.
The path becomes narrow againThe path goes close to the main enclosure, Notice the wooden steps that were added later on by the townThe Masugata system at the entrance of the enclosure
You can also walk down to the dry moats surrounding the main enclosure, from the front of the Masugata system. You will see the vertical cliffs on the slopes of the enclosure, which were artificially cut for defense, on the way to the moats. The bottom of the moats looks spacious tough it is covered with trees and grass now. Historians speculate that it was used as passages or stations for soldiers. The moats also have earthen walls like normal enclosures have.
Going down to the dry moatsThe vertical cliffs, Notice the narrow road partially covered in plants. On the right, is the artificially cut soil, in order ot make the slope steeper for the enemiesThe bottom of the moatThe earthen walls on the moat, Notice the sign in Japanese saying “altered earthen walls”
Finally, we will climb another enclosure on a hill, the opposite of the main enclosure. The top of the enclosure is leveled, probably in order to accommodate soldiers in the past. Overall, Matsuoyama Castle must have been a large basement for the Sekigahara Battle. I have confirmed that it was not only a simple encampment but also a full-scale castle.
Climbing the slope to another enclosureThe top of the enclosure
My Impression
After visiting the Sekigahara area, I think it still has a mysterious vibe and can accept adventurous spirits with many theories. In addition, I also learned that the area has a long history including the gateway and battle between eastern and western Japan since the ancient time. In fact, the battle between them still continues today in the category of noodles. You can buy two types of instant noodles for eastern and western Japan there at the souvenir shop. Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum is a very popular spot for visitors where you can learn about the battle and buy other souvenirs. You can also get Goshuin stamps (you can stamp a piece of paper to commemorate your experience) of the encampments you visited there; However, you will need to show the pictures to the counter staff as evidence.
The Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial MuseumThe two types of instant noodles for eastern and western Japan, The left is the “western type” while the one on the right is the “eastern type”.The Goshuin stamps for three encampments, The left is the grave of Otani, the center represents Matsuoyama Mountain, and finally the one the right is Sasaoyama
