112.Kasama Castle Part1

Kasama is a local city, located in the central part of Ibaraki Prefecture and the northeastern part of the Kanto Region. It is known for Kasama Inari Shrine and Kasama Pottery, which attract many visitors. However, they became popular after the emergence of Kasama Castle.

Location and History

Tokitomo Kasama, Mysterious General builds Castle

Kasama is a local city, located in the central part of Ibaraki Prefecture and the northeastern part of the Kanto Region. It is known for Kasama Inari Shrine and Kasama Pottery, which attract many visitors. However, they became popular after the emergence of Kasama Castle.

Kasama Castle[/leaflet-marker]

It is uncertain how the castle was first built. The only record available is called Kasamajo-ki (meaning the Record of Kasama Castle), later written during the Edo Period. According to the record, the castle was first built in 1219 during the Kamakura Period by Tokitomo Kasama who was a relative of the Utsunomiya Clan, one of the most powerful clans in the region. There was the Shofukuji Temple on Sashiro-yama Mountain where Kasama Castle would be built. The temple prospered on the mountain with the One Hundred Quarters and had many monk soldiers to protect it. A fight broke out with a rival temple called Tokuzoji Temple and they were outnumbered, so it asked the Utsunomiya Clan for help. Tokitomo was sent by the clan and defeated the Tokuzoji Temple. He even banished the Shotokuji Temple from the mountain and built the Kasama Castle.

Sashiro-yama Mountain
The current Shofukuji Temple at the foot of the mountain
The signpost of the One Hundred Quarters Ruins

However, historians say, using fragments from other records, Tokitomo might have actually not been so radical. He was not only a warrior but also a medium class noble which other warriors rarely became. He was also highly educated and famous as a poet. There are also several remaining Buddha statues and sutras he donated to temples, which proved he was rich and religious. Overall, Tokitomo might have built the castle in a more coordinated manner. As a result, the Kasama Clan governed the castle and the area around for over 300 years until the Sengoku Period. The castle was thought to be a simple mountain castle, made of soil.

The Buddha statue Tokitomo donated to a local temple called Ishidera, quoted from the Kasama City Website
Rengeoin Temple at Kyoto where Tokitomo donated two other Buddha statues  (licensed by Akonnchiroll via Wikimedia Commons)

Satonari Gamo renovates Castle

The situation changed in the end of the 16th Century during the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi. The Kasama Clan declined and the Utsunomiya Clan was fired by Hideyoshi. Kasama Castle was followed by Satonari Gamo, a senior vassal of the Gamo Clan in 1598. The Gamo Clan served Hideyoshi for a long time and became one of the greatest lords in Japan. The clan also built or improved many castles like Matsusaka and Wakamatsu by building advanced items, such as high stone walls and Main Towers. The lord of the clan, Hideyuki Gamo lived in Utsunomiya Castle and one of his branch castles was Kasama Castle. Satonari improved Kasama Castle using the techniques and resources that the clan used. The Main Tower was built on the top of mountain with three-tier stone walls, called the Main Tower Enclosure. The Main and Second Enclosures were developed below the top and the route from the Main Gate to the top through these enclosures was built. Other stone walls were constructed along the route and each gate and enclosure was protected by an altered entrance or the Masugata system which refers to a square defensive space in the gate. The lord of the castle lived in the Main Hall in the Main Enclosure which also had several other turrets.

The ruins of Matsusaka Castle
Wakamatsu Castle
The miniature model of Kasama Castle, exhibited by Kasama History Exchange Center “Izutsuya”

Satonari developed Kasama Castle more in 1600 during a decisive battle when all the lords of Japan joined the Eastern Alliance or the Western Alliance. He joined the Eastern Alliance while the Satake Clan at Mito Castle in the neighboring area to the east of Kasama joined the Western Alliance. That’s why he needed to prepare to avoid the Satake Clan from invading. It is thought that Satonari built forts on three hills around the mountain and deep dry moats surrounding all the castle and the forts. The Eastern Alliance, which would be the Tokugawa Shogunate, finally won after nothing happened to Kasama Castle fortunately.

The ruins of Mito Castle
The dry moats surrounding the castle are put on the miniature model above as well
The remaining dry moats at the site

Other Clans like Asano and Makino follow Castle

The shogunate transferred the Gamo Clan to another in 1601. Since then, Kasama Castle and the area around it were considered as the Kasama Domain, but the lord’s clan changed 8 times. A major event for the castle happened when the Asano Clan governed the domain between 1622 and 1645. The second lord, Naganao Asano built suburban residences, in fact a new Main Hall, at the foot of the mountain, for the convenience of the government. An episode about it was that the residences were very large and surrounded by earthen walls and white mud walls, which looked like a new castle that the shogunate banned from being built. Naganao conveted the mud walls to hedge fences to hide and not to make it look like a castle before the shogunate heard about it. He was transferred to Ako Castle in 1645 and renovated it, so he seemed to like castle constructions. His grandchild was Naganori Asano who would cause the Ako Incident which is one of the most popular events of Japanese history.

The portrait of Naganao Asano, owned by Kagakuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of the suburban residences
The ruins of Ako Castle

The last clan to rule the Kasama Domain was the Makino Clan between 1747 and 1871, the longest and most stable period among the others. The Kasama Pottery started to be made and developed with the help from the domain during this period. In addition, the Kasama Inari Shrine also became popular during the Edo Period, which was visited by several clans governing the domain.

Part of the Illustration of Kasama Castle in Hitachi Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan
Kasama Potteries in the Kasama Pottery Cooperative Selling Center
The Worship Hall of Kasama Inari Shrine  (licensed by On-chan via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Kasama Castle Part2”

112.笠間城 その1

笠間市は、関東地方の北東部、茨城県の中央部に位置する地方都市です。この市は、笠間稲荷神社や笠間焼があることで知られていますが、これらが有名になる以前から笠間城によって栄えていた地域でした。

立地と歴史

謎多き武将、笠間時朝が築城

笠間市は、関東地方の北東部、茨城県の中央部に位置する地方都市です。この市は、笠間稲荷神社や笠間焼があることで知られていますが、これらが有名になる以前から笠間城によって栄えていた地域でした。

笠間市の範囲と城の位置

この城が最初はいつ誰によって築かれたのかは定かではありません。それに関して唯一残っている記録は、後の江戸時代に書かれた「笠間城紀」です。この書物によると、この城は関東地方の有力氏族、宇都宮氏の親族である笠間時朝(かさまときとも)によって鎌倉時代の1219年に築かれました。笠間城が築かれることになる佐白山(さしろやま)には、当初正福寺(しょうふくじ)がありました。この寺はこの山に「笠間百坊」と言われた伽藍を築くほど栄えていて、寺を守るために多くの僧兵も抱えていました。そうするうちに、徳蔵寺(とくぞうじ)という別の有力な寺と争いになり、劣勢に立たされました。そこで、正福寺側は宇都宮氏に助けを求めたのです。時朝がそのとき派遣され、徳蔵寺側を打ち破りました。ところが彼は、山から正福寺までも追い出し、笠間城を築いたというのです。

笠間つつじ公園から見た佐白山
山麓にある現在の正福寺
笠間百坊跡の標柱

しかし歴史家が他の断片的な記録を集めて検証したところ、時朝はそんなに過激な行動には出ていないのではないかということです。彼は単なる武士であっただけでなく、他の武士が滅多になれない中級貴族の位(従五位上)も持っていました。加えてかなりの教養人であり、歌人としても有名でした。そして、いくつもの仏像や経典を作って寺に寄進しています。これは、相当裕福で且つ宗教心がなければできないことです。総じて言うと、時朝は記録に残るよりもっと穏やかなやり方で城を築き、統治したのかもしれないのです。その結果、笠間氏は戦国時代までの300年以上もの間、城と周辺の地域を治めていました。そのときの城は、単純な山城で、土造りであったと考えられています。

時朝が地元の石寺に寄進した弥勒如来立像、笠間市ホームページより引用
時朝が仏像を寄進した京都の蓮華王院(三十三間堂) (licensed by Akonnchiroll via Wikimedia Commons)

蒲生郷成が城を大改修

そうした状況は、16世紀終わり頃の豊臣秀吉による天下統一のときに変わりました。笠間氏の勢力が衰え、宇都宮氏もまた、秀吉によって改易となってしまいます。笠間城は1598年に、蒲生氏の重臣である蒲生郷成(がもうさとなり)に引き継がれました。蒲生氏は、秀吉に長い間仕え、日本でも有数の大名となっていました。蒲生氏はまた、松坂城若松城などの城を築いたり、改修したりしていました。その際には、高石垣や天守など最新のアイテムを使っていました。当時の当主、蒲生秀行(ひでゆき)は宇都宮城を居城とし、笠間城は支城の一つという位置づけでした。郷成は、蒲生氏が使ってきた技術とリソースを用いて笠間城を改修しました。天守曲輪と呼ばれた、三段の石垣を伴う山頂部分には天守が築かれました。本丸と二の丸は山頂下に作られ、大手門からこれらの曲輪を経由し山頂に至る通路も整備されました。石垣はこの通路沿いにも築かれ、それぞれの門や曲輪は食い違いの虎口か、四角い防御空間を持つ桝形によって防御されていました。城主は、本丸にある御殿に住み、本丸にはいくつもの櫓も建てられました。

松坂城跡
若松城
笠間城の模型、かさま歴史交流館井筒屋にて展示

郷成は、日本中の大名が東軍と西軍に分かれて戦った1600年の天下分け目の戦いのときに、笠間城を更に改修しました。彼は東軍に加わったのですが、笠間城の東隣の水戸城にいた佐竹氏は西軍に属していました。そのため、郷成は佐竹氏からの侵攻を防ぐ必要があったのです。この状況下で郷成は、佐白山の周辺の3つの丘陵に堡塁を築き、更には城とそれらの堡塁全体を囲む深い空堀を築いたと考えられています。結果的には、後に徳川幕府となる東軍が勝利したため、笠間城には何事も起こりませんでした。

水戸城跡
上記模型にも全体を囲む空堀が表現されています
現地に残る空堀

浅野氏、牧野氏などが城を継承

幕府は1601年に、蒲生氏を他所に移しますが、それ以来、笠間城とその周辺地域は笠間藩となりました。しかし、その笠間藩主の家は8回も変わりました。城にとって重要な出来事が、1622年から1645年までの浅野氏が統治した期間に起こりました。浅野家の2代目当主、浅野長直(あさのながなお)が統治の利便を図るため山麓部分に下屋敷、その実態は新しい御殿を建設したのです。そのことに関するエピソードとして、この屋敷は広大で土塀が備わる土塁によって囲まれていました。そのことが幕府が禁じていた新城の建設のように見えたのです。幕府がそのことを聞きつけ調査に乗り出す前に、長直は城には見えないよう、土塀を生垣に取り換えさせたとのことです。彼は1645年に赤穂城に転封となりますが、そこでも城の大改修を行いました。城の建設が好きだったようです。その孫が、日本の歴史の中でも最も著名な出来事の一つ、赤穂事件を引き起こした浅野長矩(ながのり)です。

浅野長直肖像画、花岳寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
長直が築いた下屋敷跡
赤穂城跡

笠間藩を最後に統治したのは牧野氏で、1747年から1871年までの歴代の中では最も長く、最も安定した時代でした。笠間焼の産業は、この期間に藩の保護を受けて始まり、発展しました。更には、笠間稲荷神社も江戸時代に人気を博し、藩主が何度もここを参詣しました。

常陸国笠間之城絵図部分(正保城絵図の一つ)、出典:国立公文書館
笠間焼(笠間焼窯元共販センター内)
笠間稲荷神社拝殿 (licensed by On-chan via Wikimedia Commons)

「笠間城その2」に続きます。

60.Ako Castle Part1

Ako Castle was located on the western edge of Harima Province, facing the Seto Inland Sea, which is now known as Ako City in Hyogo Prefecture. The castle is known as a stage for the Ako Incident, one of the most popular historical events in Japan. It’s also famous for salt industry since salt fields were developed during the Middle Ages. There is little rain in the area.

Location and History

Naganao Asano renovates Castle

Ako Castle was located on the western edge of Harima Province, facing the Seto Inland Sea, which is now known as Ako City in Hyogo Prefecture. The castle is known as a stage for the Ako Incident, one of the most popular historical events in Japan. It’s also famous for salt industry since salt fields were developed during the Middle Ages. There is little rain in the area.

The range of Harima Province and the location of the castle

It is said that Nagamasa Ikeda, a little brother of Terumasa Ikeda who was the lord of Himeji Castle, first built the castle in 1600 as their branch castle. A branch family of the clan eventually became an independent lord living in the castle as the Ako Domain in 1615. However, the second lord was fired by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1645 due to his murder from madness. The details of the first stage of the castle are unknown as Naganao Asano, following the castle and domain in the same year, renovated the castle as we know today. He was the lord of a branch family of the Asano Clan which lived in Hiroshima Castle, and was transferred from Kasama Castle. It was very rare to be allowed to renovate castles by the shogunate after 1615 when it defeated the Toyotomi Clan at Osaka Castle and its government became stable.

The portrait of Naganao Asano, owned by Kagakuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Kasama Castle

The renovation was done between 1648 and 1661. The layout of the castle was designed by scholars of military science, Masazumi Kondo and Soko Yamaga. They designed the stone walls of the castle to be bent sophisticatedly to shoot guns at any direction. The Main Enclosure and the Second Enclosure surrounding it were the main portion of the castle, backed by the sea in the south. The Third Enclosure, including the Main Gate, was added to the main portion in the north. These enclosures were divided by water moats on a flat ground, so the castle can be classified a Plain or Sea Castle. The Main Enclosure had the Main Hall for the lord and the stone wall base for the Main Tower, however, the tower was not built on the base.

The sitting statur of Soko Yamaga at Ako Castle Ruins
The stone walls of the Main Enclosure of Ako Castle
The layout of Ako Castle, from the signboard at the site, adding the red English letters
The stone wall base for the Main Tower of Ako Castle

Naganori Asano causes Ako Incident and is fired

The Ako Incident happened in 1701 when Naganao’s grandson, Naganori Asano (also known as his official position, Takumi-no-kami) was the lord. He was in charge of entertaining the Imperial envoy to the shogun, Tsunayoshi Tokugawa in the Main Hall of Edo Castle, instructed by Yoshihisa Kira (Kozuke-no-suke). On the 14th of March when one of the most important ceremonies would be held, Asano suddenly cut Kira by using a sword at the back, trying to kill him, but failed. Asano was then arrested and ordered by the shogun to kill himself by performing Harakiri on the same day because using swords in the hall was strictly prohibited. Asano was also fired with about 300 retainers and many more of their families. On the other hand, Kira was innocent, as he was just hurt by Asano, by not using swords.

The portrait of Naganori Asano, owned by Kagakuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Tsunayoshi Tokugawa, attributed to Mitsuoki Tosa, owned by Tokugawa Art Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The reason for Asano’s attempted murder was uncertain. Some records suggested that he said he had a grudge against Kira, but he didn’t tell what it was before his death. According to some recent studies, it was thought as the following. It was the second opportunity of entertaining the Imperial envoy for Asano, so he would think he doesn’t need to pay so much for the instruction from Kira, though Asano was rich because of the income from the salt industry. While Kira would need more money for his duty but unfortunately he didn’t have enough of it because he was poor dispite having a higher position. These resulted in Kira might not having instructed Asano and might have criticized him in public. If they are true, who would generally cause such a serious incident? Some, including those at that time, have thought that Asano was going mad.

The ruins of the Main Enclosure of Edo Castle where the incident happened
The miniature model of the Main Enclosure Main Hall of Edo Castle, exhibited by the Edo-Tolyo Museum

47 Ronin assaults Kira’s Residence

The retainers of the Ako Domain were very confused to hear about the incident and the following order of opening Ako Castle by the shogunate. They discussed protesting against the shogunate’s decision or simply handing the castle over following the order. Some warriors who served Asano closely never accepted the decision and thought their master must have had a reason. Yoshio Oishi (Kura-no-suke), who was the head of the senior vassals, finally decided to open the castle on the 12th of April. He thought the shogunate might allow Naganori’s brother, Daigaku to follow the domain if they would behave.

The portrait of Yoshio Oishi, owned by Ako Oishi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Unfortunately, this didn’t happen. The shogunate decided to banish Daigaku to the head family of the Asano Clan at Hirosima Castle. Oishi eventually became the leader of the 47 Ronin under the influence of the hardliners, which attacked Kira’s residence and killed him on the 14th of Dec in 1702 (according to lunar calendar). Oishi left his verbal notice at the site, which says they would do this to complete their master’s work. They were all arrested but it became complicated and cabinet officials of the shogunate discussed how they would treat the Ronin. Some said the Ronin should be executed strictly because they broke the law by assaulting Kira’s residence and killing the innocent man. Some argued that they were real loyal retainers to show a mirror of knighthood. The shogun, Tsunayoshi’s decision was to compromise both opinions to make the Ronin kill themselves by Harakiri. This was the same judgement as their master’s, but very honorable for their positions and actions.

Hiroshima Castle
A Ukiyoe-painting of the assaulting Kira’s Residence, attributed to Kuniyoshi Utagawa  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Domain and Castle is followed by Other Clans

Ako Castle and the Ako Domain was followed by the Nagai Clan and the Mori Clan. The Mori Clan governed the area for a long time from 1706 until 1871 when the feudal domain system was abolished. The salt industry of Ako prospered more and the salt fields increased looking like they surrounded the castle. On the other hand, the domain by the Mori Clan faced financial difficulties because they had much less territory than the Asano Clan. For example, the former residence of Oishi in the Third Enclosure was burned down in 1729, but not rebuilt. This was probably because the domain had fewer retainers and budget than before so that they wouldn’t use the residence again.

The ruins of Ako Castle

To be continued in “Ako Castle Part2”