178.Noshima Castle Part1

Noshima Castle was located on Noshima Island, which is in a narrow strait called Miyakubo-Seto, and part of the Geiyo Islands in the Seto Inland Sea. It was also built and operated by the Noshima-Murakami Clan, one of the three Murakami Navies which were very active around these islands.

Location and History

Murakami Navies, Excellent Guides of Seto Inland Sea

Noshima Castle was located on Noshima Island, which is in a narrow strait called Miyakubo-Seto, and part of the Geiyo Islands in the Seto Inland Sea. It was also built and operated by the Noshima-Murakami Clan, one of the three Murakami Navies which were very active around these islands. Before modern times, sailing along the coast was a major way of transportation. Seto Inland Sea was one of the most important sea routes, which connected central and western Japan. However, the Geiyo Islands area has lots of islands and narrow straits, which made the sea currents fast and difficult. For example, in Kurushima Strait, the direction and speed of the current frequently changes mainly due to the pull of the moon. Ships are still now required to follow instructions from the sea traffic center and its traffic signals.

The Kurushima Strait

The location of the castle

In the Middle Ages, boatmen and pilots, who sailed there, were required to have great competence instead. In addition, sailing alone could be very dangerous at that time as the police power of the central government was still weak. Each area was governed by a local lord or others, such as pirates. People at that time thought travelers should pay a toll when they passed others’ territories. The Murakami Navies, which were also some of the local lords, came out to guarantee safe travel to ships around the islands. The earliest record about them in 1349 says the Noshima-Murakami Clan guarded the sea around Yuge Island. Their system was roughly as follow: they escorted ships which had paid protection money (basically 10% of the value of the cargo), otherwise, they became pirates by chasing the ship using their boats called Kobayabune (meaning “small fast boat”).

The restored Kobayabune boat, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum

Home of Noshima-Murakami Clan

The navies were eventually divided into three clans: the Innoshima-Murakami, Noshima-Murakami, and Kurushima-Murakami Clans. Their territories were based on the northern, middle, and southern Geiyo Islands respectively. Noshima is a small island in the Miyakubo-Seto Strait which is between Ushima Island to the north and Oshima Island to the south. The strait was on one of the shortest paths for ships to pass through the Seto Inland Sea. However, the speed of the current is at most around 10 knots and kept changing constantly. The sea around the island is shallow and kept swirling, which is uncontrollable for regular ships. For the navy members, Noshima is about 300m away from Oshima Island where they usually live, so they could communicate verbally. That meant they could immediately ask or provide help to each other in the event of an emergency. From the top of Noshima, they were able to see the whole strait, beacon fires on mountains of Oshima Island and even Shikoku Island over Oshima between the mountains. Overall, it was suitable for the home base of the Noshima-Murakami Clan.

The diorama of the area around Noshima Island (marked by the red circle), exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum
The Oshima Island seen from Noshima Castle Ruins, can we communicate with voice?
The ruins of Koga Yashiki residence in the Oshima Island, which was said to have been the residence of the Noshima-Murakami Clan

They operated Noshima Castle on the island between the 14th and 16th Centuries. Several enclosures and buildings were built after leveling the land. The navy members lived in or were stationed at the site not only to guard the strait, but also to trade and fish. The defensive systems of the castle were few, excluding artificial vertical cliffs on the sides, because its sea barrier was strong. Instead, they constructed harbors, landing places and maintenance yards at the seaside. On the other hand, the island didn’t provide water, food and other supplies they needed, which had to be brought from other islands.

The imaginary drawing of Noshima Castle, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum

“Largest Pirates of Japan”

The Murakami Navies also often joined battles to support other warlords. In the case of the Noshima-Murakami Clan, it had a good relationship with the Kobayakawa Clan, a branch of the Mori Clan which was the greatest warlord in the Chugoku Region nearby. They needed the superior navy power to survive during the harsh Sengoku Period. Other warlords, such as the Otomo Clan, also invited the Noshima-Murakami Clan. When it once switched to the Otomo’s side, the Kobayakawa Clan, which also had a navy, attacked and blocked Noshima Castle by interrupting the supplies (laying siege) to the castle until it returned to the Kobayakawa’s side.

The portrait of Takakage Kobayakawa who was the clan’s lord at that time, owned by Beisanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The power of the Noshima-Murakami Clan reached its peak when Takeyoshi Murakami was the lord during the late 16th Century. The most popular battle his navy fought in was the First Battle of Kizugawaguchi between the Mori and Oda Clans in 1576. In this battle, the Mori’s navies, supported by the Takeyoshi’s navy, who tried to bring supplies to Ishiyama Honganji Temple (currently Osaka Castle), and blocked by the Oda’s navies. Tekayoshi’s navy attacked the Oda’s ships with bombs, which eventually burned and sank. The supply operation was a success. In 1586, a Portugal missionary, Luis Frois visited Noshima Castle while sailing the Seto Inland Sea. He recorded in his book “The History of Japan” that they were the largest group of pirates. His crew was given a passport-flag which would guaranteed his safe voyage considerably.

The imaginary drawing of the First Battle of Kizugawaguchi, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum
The imaginary drawing of Luis Frois‘s visit to Noshima Castle, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum
One of the remaining passport-flags, owned by Yamaguchi Prefectural Archives (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Sudden Ending of Navies and Castle

The three Murakami Navies basically cooperated with each other, however, they eventually took different paths. The Kurushima-Murakami Clan switched to the Oda’s side through the invitation of Hideyoshi Hashiba, who would later be the ruler. Therefore, Takeyoshi occupied the Kurushima’s territory. However, this would be a misfortune for him. In the process of the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi, he was asked to return it to the Kurushima by Hideyoshi. He seemed to want to maintain his clan’s independence. However, when the Kobayakawa Clan, which was the current boss of the Noshima-Murakami Clan, was transferred to the Kushu Region by Hideyoshi, Takeyoshi finally had no choice but to leave all his territories including Noshima Castle.

The current Noshima Castle Ruins, seen from the Oshima Island

To be continued in “Noshima Castle Part2”

29.Matsumoto Castle Part2

When you arrive at Matsumoto Castle, in the present time, the first thing you have to do is to enjoy its Main Tower. It is one of the only two remaining five-level Main Towers, followed by Himeji Castle, one of the five Main Towers of Japan’s National Treasures, and one of the twelve remaining Main Towers.

Features

When you arrive at Matsumoto Castle, in the present time, the first thing you have to do is to enjoy its Main Tower. It is one of the only two remaining five-level Main Towers, followed by Himeji Castle, one of the five Main Towers of Japan’s National Treasures (the previous two plus Hikone, Inuyama and Matsue Castles), and one of the twelve remaining Main Towers.

The Main Tower of Matsumoto Castle
The Main Tower of Himeji Castle
The Main Tower of Hikone Castle
The Main Tower of Inuyama Castle
The Main Tower of Matsue Castle

Beautiful but Strong Main Tower

It may be a good idea to walk around the inner moat surrounding the main enclosure to enjoy a beautiful view of the tower before entering it. The width of the moat in front of the tower is about 60m. It would make enemies shooting up from the side ineffective but defenders shooting down from the tower more effective at that time. In addition, if the enemies could swim across the moat to the tower, they would be heavily counterattacked by the defenders through its defense systems such as machicolations and loopholes.

The aerial photo around the castle

The inner moat in front of the Main Tower
A machicolation and loopholes near the entrance of the tower

Reasons for Black Main Tower

The black-looking Main Tower of Matsumoto Castle (sometimes called “Crow Castle”) is often compared with the Himeji castle’s painted white clearly by contrast. Its black appearance comes from its wooden side walls covered with special Japanese lacquer, which could withstand harsh weathers. Himeji Castle is covered in plaster, which make it look white, and it is newer than Matsumoto Castle. It is said that using plaster on all walls of a castle would not effectively protect against the rain when Matsumoto Castle was built. That meant the improvements in wall painting techniques occurred between the building of the two castles. Another possible reason for the using the black walls is that wooden walls are stronger than plaster walls against the cold winter of inland area like the Matsumoto Basin.

If you look up at the Main Tower, you can see its each level is covered with plaster in the upper part and wooden walls in the lower part
Himeji Castle, a representative of white castles

Some also say black was a favorite color of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, while white was the color which Ieyasu Tokugawa often used for his castles when Himeji Castle was built. Anyway, these speculations are enjoyable to see the contrast.

Hideyoshi’s Main Tower of Osaka Castle, from “The summer campaign of the siege of Osaka folding screens”, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Nagoya Castle, another representative of white castle, during Ieyasu’s period

Unique Lookout Tower

The Main Tower of Matsumoto Castle actually consists of the large main tower, the Inui small main tower, and three turrets (Watari Yagura, Tatsumi-Tsuke Yagura and Tsukimi Yagura) which are connected to each other. This is called “multiple attached style”. The large one is generally considered “the Main Tower”. The tower has five levels but six floors inside. This type of the tower is called the lookout tower type, which refers to a small lookout tower on a large turret. In the case of Matsumoto Castle, the turret part is the first and second floors and the fifth and top floors is the tower part, binding the middle part of the third and fourth floors. However, the third floor is built as the attic of the turret part, with no roof. That’s why the numbers of its levels and floors are different.

(From the left) The Inui small main tower, (simple) Watari Turret, the large main tower, Tatsumi Turret, and Tsukimi Turret)

In addition, the Main Tower has a striking appearance for a lookout tower. One of the reasons for this is that the top floor doesn’t have a veranda, which lookout towers usually had, and is covered with walls. The fact is that it had been first planned to have a veranda, but was changed to its current state during construction. As a result, the tower looks a little top-heavy.

The top level is covered with the walls, which looks a little top-heavy.

To be continued in “Matsumoto Castle Part3”
Back to “Matsumoto Castle Part1”

29.Matsumoto Castle Part1

Matsumoto Castle is located in Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture, which is known for its wonderful remaining five-level Main Tower. Matsumoto Basin, in which the city is located, has also been known for abundant springs flowing from the surrounding mountains since Ancient Times (we can still see many wells in the city area).

Location and History

Ogasawara Clan is driven away from Castle, but is waiting for their long-cherished plan to revive

Matsumoto Castle is located in Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture, which is known for its wonderful remaining five-level Main Tower. Matsumoto Basin, in which the city is located, has also been known for abundant springs flowing from the surrounding mountains since Ancient Times (we can still see many wells in the city area). That’s why the area was originally called “Fukase” or “Fukashi” which seem to have meant “waters running deep”. The Ogasawara Clan, which became the governor of Shinano Province (now Nagano Pref.), was based in this area during the Middle Ages. Many battles occurred during the Sengoku Period, and Ukon Shimadate, who was a retainer of the clan, built Fukashi Castle (the former Matsumoto Castle) in 1504 to protect the clan’s home, Hayashi Castle. However, they were driven away by the Takeda Clan in 1550, following the Siege of Fukashi.

The range of Matsumoto City and the location of the castle

A well in the city area (at Nishibori Park)
Another well maybe naneless

The Takeda Clan fortified Fukashi Castle to be a defensive stronghold even on the flat lands of the basin. The clan had the castle surrounded by tripled water moats. The lands inside the moats were called (from the center) the main, second, and third enclosures. The flow of the Metoba River was diverted to run alongside the outer moat, which made the castle more defensive. The clan also improved the gates of the castle by adding Umadashi systems in front of them. The system refers to a small round enclosure connected by a narrow path to the gate. It was a defense system created and frequently used by the clan. It was said that the basic structures of the castle was completed by the Takeda Clan. However, the castle was still basically made of soil at this point.

The miniature model of Matsumoto Castle during the Edo Period, exhibited by Matsumoto City Museum
The few remaining outer moat of the eastern part of the castle
The few remaining earthen walls inside the outer moat, at Nishibori-dorui (the western moat earthen walls) Park
The Metoba River
One of the Umadashi systems in the miniature model above, however, they were all removed at the site

A chance for the Ogasawara Clan to revive suddenly came in 1582 when Nobunaga Oda defeated the Takeda Clan before he was also killed by Mitsuhide Akechi in the Honnoji Incident. Sadayoshi Ogasawara who served Ieyasu Tokugawa returned to Fukashi Castle the following year – for the first time in 33 years, his clan held the castle. He renamed the castle Matsumoto to celebrate the event. The new name was said to come from waiting (matsu) for his long-cherished plan (hon-kai, the Chinese symbol for “hon” is also pronounced “moto”). However, the situation rapidly changed. He and his master, Ieyasu were transferred to the Kanto Region in 1590 by the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi. Hideyoshi gave the castle to Kazumasa Ishikawa who had been a senior vassal of Ieyasu but was acquired by Hideyoshi.

The family crest of the Ogasawara Clan, called Sankaibishi (triple diamonds) (licensed by Minamoto at fr.wikipedia via Wikimedia Commons)
Kazumasa Ishikawa, drawn in the folding screens of “the Battle of Nagashino” (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ishikawa Clan modernizes Castle by building Main Tower

Kazumasa started to modernize the castle using advanced techniques favoured by Hideyoshi, which was continued by his son, Yasunaga after Kazumasa’s death in 1592. Yasunaga built stone walls surrounding each enclosures, including the five-level Main Tower inside the main enclosure. He also replaced the Umadashi system of major gates with the Masugata system. The system refers to a defensive square space surrounded by stone walls and gated buildings. The gates were called Ote-mon (main gate) for the third enclosure, Taiko-mon (drum gate) for the second enclosure, and Kuro-mon (black gate) for the main enclosure. They were completed in 1594. However, local people suffered because of these rapid construction projects. A local legend says that when a worker, who had carried a huge stone for the Taiko-mon Gate, complained about it, Yasunaga heard about it and immediately executed him. Since then, the stone has been called Genba-ishi(stone). Genba was the name of Yasunaga’s official position.

The map around the castle

The main gate in the miniature model above, Metoba River is in front of it
The current main gate ruins
The restored Taiko-mon Gate
The Genba-ishi stone in the gate
The restored Kuro-mon Gate

The castle buildings were allowed to use roof tiles with gold leaf with the special permission of Hideyoshi. Such permission was only given to Hideyoshi’s relatives and trusted senior vassals. Other castles of the trusted vassals, which also used the golden roof tiles, were built around Ieyasu’s Kanto Region in places such as Komoro, Ueda, Kofu, Numata, and Sumpu Castle. These castles (including Matsumoto) formed the anti-Ieyasu network to monitor and threaten him. Yasumasa somehow survived even when Ieyasu gained power after Hideyoshi’s death (the golden roof tiles were then scraped). However, he was finally removed by Ieyasu in 1613. The reasons for this remain unclear, but it was possibly Ieyasu’s revenge against the Ishikawa Clan which had abandoned him.

The castles of anti-Ieyasu network

The ruins of Komoro Castle
The ruins of Ueda Castle
The ruins of Kofu Castle
The ruins of Numata Castle
The ruins of Sunpu Castle

Castle is completed with building Tsukimi Turret

After that, the Ogasawara Clan returned to the castle again but were soon transferred to Akashi Castle in 1617. The castle and the area around it, called the Matsumoto Domain, were followed by the shogun’s relatives and several hereditary feudal lords during the Edo Period. There were also a few important subsequent events for the castle. One of them occurred when Naomasa Matsudaira lived there. He heard about a plan of the shogun, Iemitsu Tokugawa, to visit the castle (though it would be canceled later) and added a new turret called Tsukimi (seeing the moon) Yagura to the Main Tower in 1634. So far, the tower had entirely been designed with battles in mind. This turret, however, was completely built for entertainment. The tower became what we see now, influenced by different tastes.

The portrait of Naomasa Matsudaira, owned by Gesshoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Tsukimi Turret (appearance)
The Tsukimi Turret (interior)
The Main Tower with the Tsukimi Turret on the right

The second occurred during the great fire of Matsumoto in 1727. The Main Hall next to the tower was burned down by the fire; the tower itself fortunately survived. People thought that a god called Nijurokuyashin (the god of the 26th night moon), which was worshiped in the tower, had saved it. In addition, the castle town prospered as the intersection of the Zenkoji Road (from north to south) and the Nomugi Road (from east to west). The town also had many guardhouses to make sure to prevent enemies from reaching the castle easily.

The ruins of the main enclosure main hall
The Nijurokuyashin God, which is still worshiped in the tower
The castle town in the miniature model above
A guardhouse in the model

To be continued in “Matsumoto Castle Part2”