24.Takeda Clan Hall Part1

Were the people the castle, the stone walls, or the moats?

Location and History

Nobutora Takeda built Castle as Governor’s Residence

Takeda Clan Hall, which is also called Tsutsujigasaki Hall, was located in what is now Kofu City, the Prefectural Capital of Yamanashi Prefecture. I would say the hall is the origin of Kofu City. The Governor of Kai Province (now Yamanashi Pref), Nobutora Takeda first built the hall in 1519. The hall was not only for the official residence of the governor, but also for the home base of the Takeda Clan, so it is classified as one of the castles in Japan.

The portrait of Nobutora Takeda, attributed to Nobukado Takeda, owned by Daisen-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Its location had mountains behind on the north, and an alluvial fan spread down on the south from around there. This meant Nobutora was able to overlook the castle town and the area around. He built his hall on a square enclosure which was nearly 200m on one side, surrounded by earthen walls and water moats. This was a typical style of the residences for governors in Japan at that time, emulating the style of Shogun’s palace in Kyoto. In addition, he built another castle on a mountain about 2km away from the hall on the north, called Yogaisan Castle, for emergency. For example, he and his family could escape from the hall to the mountain castle when a battle happened. Indeed, his son, Shingen Takeda was born at Yogaisan Castle during the battle between Nobutora and the Imagawa Clan in 1521. The network of these castle was defensive enough to maintain their safety during that time.

The location of the castle

Shingen Takeda’s saying related to Castle

Shingen, who was one of the greatest warlords in Japan, developed the hall as well, adding the West Enclosure for residences of his family and relatives on the west of the center enclosure in 1551. Apart from that, the Umadashi system, which refers to a round shaped sticking out defensive position, was built in front of the Main Gate on the east. It is also said that the hall for Shingen’s mother was built on the north. Each enclosure was surrounded by nearly 10m high earthen walls and over 5m deep water moats.

The imaginary drawing of Takeda Clan Hall (from the signboard at the site)

However, the hall seems to be misunderstood by many people. This comes from Shingen’s saying “The people are the castle, the stone walls, and the moats…” recorded in the military science book called Koyogunkan in the 17th Century of the Edo Period. The sentence means it is more important to win the people’s hearts than to build a strong castle, but many people later have been thinking it shows the reason why Shingen only had such a small castle in comparison to other castles for other warlords such as Nobunaga Oda and Kenshin Uesugi.

The portrait of Shingen Takeda, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Takeda Clan Hall itself is much smaller than Nobunaga’s Azuchi Castle or Kenshin’s Kasugayama Castle, but it is because their periods or situations were different. In the case of Shingen, his hall started from the governor’s residence. It was common for governors to live in such a hall at that time. The Takeda Clan added defense systems like the network of the castles and Umadashi to deal with their situation. It was enough for them.

The ruins of Takeda Clan Hall

Katsuyori Takeda moved to another

In 1582, Shingen’s son, Katsuyori Takeda decided to move his home base to a large new castle called Shinpu Castle, because the situation changed. Katsuyori was threatened by Nobunaga, so Katsuyori needed a stronger and larger castle than the Takeda Clan Hall which was once abandoned. Katsuyori was unfortunately beaten by Nobunaga before the hall was used by the Oda Clan and the Tokugawa Clan again. It was finally abandoned in 1590, when the Tokugawa Clan built Kofu Castle near the hall.

The Portrait of Katsuyori Takeda, owned by Koyasan Jimyoin (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Takeda Clan Hall Part2”

24.武田氏館 その1

人は城、人は石垣、人は堀だったのでしょうか?

立地と歴史

武田信虎が守護所として築城

躑躅ヶ崎館とも呼ばれた武田氏館は、現在の山梨県の県庁所在地である甲府市にありました。この館が甲府市発祥の地だと言えるのです。甲斐国(現在の山梨県)の守護であった武田信虎が1519年に最初にこの館を作りました。館は、守護の公邸ということだけでなく、武田氏の本拠地でもありました。よって、日本の城の一つとして分類されています。

武田信虎肖像画、武田信廉筆、大泉寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

その立地は、北側に山が控えていて、南側にはその周辺から扇状地が広がっていました。信虎は城下町やその周辺地を見渡すことができました。彼は、館を一辺が200m近くある方形の曲輪の上に築き、土塁と水堀で囲みました。これは当時の日本の守護の典型的な館の築き方で、京都の将軍の御所にあやかったものでした。更に、彼は館の北、約2kmの所にある山にもう一つの城を緊急事態のときのために築き、要害山城と呼ばれました。例えば、信虎とその家族は、戦いが起こったときは館からこの山城に避難できたわけです。実際に、彼の息子、武田信玄は1521年の信虎と今川氏との戦いの最中に要害山城で生まれました。これらの城のネットワークは、当時としては安全を確保するための十分な防御態勢だったのです。

城の位置

武田信玄の言葉と城との関係

日本の最も有力な戦国大名の一人であった武田信玄もまた、1551年に家族と関係者のための西曲輪を加えるなど、館を拡張しました。それ以外に、丸く突き出た形の防御陣地である馬出しが、東側の大手門の前に築かれました。また、北側には信玄の母の館が築かれたと言われています。それぞれの曲輪は10m近い高さの土塁と5mの深さがある水堀に囲まれていました。

武田氏館の想像図(現地説明板より)

ところが、この館は多くの人たちに誤解されているようなのです。これは、江戸時代の17世紀の軍学書である甲陽軍艦に記載されている信玄の言葉「人は城、人は石垣、人は堀・・」から来ているのです。この言葉の意味するところは強い城を築くより人の心を掴むことが大事ということなのですが、後の多くの人たちは、これを信玄が、織田信長や上杉謙信のような他の戦国大名と比べて、なぜこのような小さな城しか持たなかったかということへの理由として考えているのです。

武田信玄肖像画、高野山持明院蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

武田氏館自体は、信長の安土城や謙信の春日山城より随分小さいものです。しかし、それはその時代や状況が異なっていたからです。信玄の場合は、館は守護の公邸としてスタートしました。当時としては、このような館が守護の住む所として普通でした。武田氏はこれに、城のネットワークや馬出しを状況に応じて加えていったのです。彼らとしてはそれで十分でした。

武田氏館跡

武田勝頼が本拠地を移す

1582年、信玄の息子、武田勝頼は本拠地を大きな新しい城、新府城に移すことを決めました。状況が変わったからです。勝頼は信長の脅威に直面しており、武田氏館より強力で大きな城を必要としていたのです。武田氏館は一時廃城となります。勝頼は、不幸にも信長により滅ぼされてしまい、武田氏館は織田氏や徳川氏により再び使われることになりました。1590年、徳川氏が近くに甲府城を築いたときに武田氏館はついに最後のときを迎えました。

武田勝頼肖像画、高野山持明院蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「武田氏館その2」に続きます

44.Nagoya Castle Part2

The castle makes Nagoya what it is.

Location and History

Nagoya Castle revived

There was another Nagoya Castle which had the same name and was built at the same place as the present Nagoya Castle in the middle 16th century during the Sengoku Period. It is said that the famous warlord Nobunaga Oda was born at the old Nagoya Castle. Nobunaga eventually moved his home base to Kiyosu Castle before the old Nagoya Castle was abandoned. Since then, Kiyosu Castle (about 10km away from Nagoya Castle on the northeast) had been the center of Owari Province (what is now the western part of Aichi Prefecture). In 1609, the Tokugawa Shogunate decided to build a new castle in place of Kiyosu Castle which often suffered from floods. They needed a stronger castle for their relatives to prepare for a battle with the Toyotomi Clan at Osaka Castle. The castle was named Nagoya Castle once again.

The location of Nagoya Castle and Kiyosu Castle

A view of Nagoya Castle from the ruins of Kiyosu Castle (licensed by 名古屋太郎 via Wikimedia Commons)

Simple but Strong Castle with one of Largest Main Tower

The area of the castle was very large but built simply and strongly. The center of the castle, the Main Enclosure, was protected on all directions by other enclosures such as the West Enclosure. The Second Enclosure was added on the southeast of the Main Enclosure, which had the Ninomaru Main Hall for the lord of the castle. The largest Third Enclosure was on the south of all other enclosures, which was used as the senior vassals’ houses.

The drawing of Nagoya Castle in Owari Province (exhibited by the National Diet Library)

The aerial photo around the castle

The Main Enclosure had the five-layer Main Tower, one of the largest main towers on record. The two golden grampuses on the top were particularly popular among people. It is said the first generator of them used 215 kilograms of gold. The enclosure also had the Honmaru Main Hall, but it was only for the Shogun’s stay. Actually, just three Shoguns used it. People have been saying that “The castle makes Nagoya what it is.”.

An old picture of the original Main Tower and the Honmaru Main Hall at the Main Enclosure (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Destruction and Revival

After the Meiji Restoration, the large enclosures such as the Second and Third Enclosures were turned into a Japanese Army base. However, the government decided to maintain around the Main Enclosure as a castle. Many traditional buildings including the Main Tower and the Honmaru Main Hall remained as they were. They were designated as the first National Treasure for a castle in 1930. It is regrettable to say this, but almost all of them were burned down in 1945. Only three turrets and three gates remain now.

The burning Main Tower by the bombing
The remaining Southwest Corner Turret at the Main Enclosure
The remaining Second Front Gate at the Main Enclosure

After 14 years from the tragedy, people in Nagoya rebuilt the Main Tower which we now see. One third of the fund for rebuilding it came from the citizens’ donation. The appearance of the tower is almost the same as the original one, but it is a modern concrete building on a huge caisson inside the original stone wall base. The original golden grampuses, which were also burned in 1945, were restored at the same time. The present ones include 88 kilograms of gold. In 2018, the Honmaru Main Hall in the Main Enclosure was restored using the original methods. The enclosure is returning to its former appearance.

The present rebuilt Main Tower
The present restored Golden Grampus
The restored Hommaru Main Hall at the Main Enclosure

To be continued in “Nagoya Castle Part3”
Back to “Nagoya Castle Part1”