183.Kurume Castle Part1

An important castle in the Chikugo Province

Location and History

Debatable ground among Great Warlords

Kurume Castle was located in the Chikugo Province which is now the southern part of Fukuoka Prefecture, in the Kyushu Region. In the late 16th Century, during the Sengoku Period, two great warlords got the power in the northern Kyushu Region. One of them was the Otomo Clan in the Bungo Province, in the east of Chikugo Province. The other was the Ryuzoji Clan in the Hizen Provence, in the west of Chikugo Province. As a result, Chikugo Province was scrambled by the two warlords. During that period, a fortress, called Sasahara Castle, was built in the same place as the later Kurume Castle. The lords of the castle changed quite often because of the context.

The range of Chikugo Province and the location of the castle

Hidekane Mori and Arima Clan complete Castle

During the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, Hidekane Mori was promoted as the lord of the castle in 1587. He renovated the castle, which was renamed Kurume Castle. However, he was fired after losing the battle of Sekigahara in 1600. Instead, the Tanaka Clan was transferred from Okazaki Castle to Yanagawa Castle in the Chikugo Province. Kurume Castle became a branch of Yanagawa Castle and was eventually abandoned in 1615 due to the Law of One Castle per Province by the Tokugawa Shogunate. The castle was revived in 1621 by the Arima Clan, the lord of the Kurume Domain, after the Tanaka Clan was also fired because they had no successors. The Arima Clan completed Kurume Castle and governed the domain until the end of the Edo Period.

The portrait of Hidekane Mori, owned by Gensaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Kurume Castle was located beside the Chikugo River flowing from the north to the west of the castle. The eastern side of the castle was surrounded by tripled water moats tripled such as the Chikuzen-bori Moat. The castle town was built in the south of the castle. Four enclosures divided by water moats; the Outer, Third, Second, Main Enclosures were built in a line next to the castle town towards the north. If enemies wanted to capture the castle, they had to first attack the castle town one enclosure at a time. Only the Main Enclosure was made with high stone walls while the others were made with soil. The Main Enclosure was on a hill at in the northernmost part of the castle and had the Main Hall and seven turrets to protect it. These turrets all had three stories and were connected by two-story row-style turrets, called Tamon-Yagura, which looked very spectacular.

The illustration of Kurume Castle, exhibited by the National Diet Library of Japan, adding my own comments

Shinto affects Domain and Castle

The governance of the Kurume Domain was generally stable in the peaceful time of the Edo Period. Shinto, one of the major religions in Japan, spread during this period. One of its main doctrines was to respect the Emperor, which led to the movement for imperialism and exclusionism. The movement eventually resulted in the one against the Tokugawa Shogunate at the end of the period. Many Shinto believers lived in Kurume, and communicated with others in other areas. For example, Hikokuro Takayama, who was a famous loyal supporter of the Emperor, visited Kurume three times and died there in 1793. Maki Izumi, who was the priest of the Kurume Suitengu Shrine, joined the Kinmon Incident in Kyoto in 1864.

The statue of Hikokuro Takayama in Kyoto (taken by あじのすけ from photoAC)

However, the Kurume Domain didn’t play a major role in the Meiji Restoration during which the New Government defeated the shogunate. This is because the domain had an internal conflict between its supporters. The domain even had complains about the New Government changing its policy to open the country. The government punished the lord of the domain and occupied Kurume Castle in 1871, which was the last time the castle was occupied.

The old photo of Kurume Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Kurume Castle Part2”

183.久留米城 その1

築後国の重要な城

立地と歴史

有力大名の係争地

久留米城は、九州地方の現在の福岡県南部、当時は筑後国と言った場所にありました。戦国時代の16世紀後半、北部九州地方には2つの有力な戦国大名が大きな勢力を持っていました。一つは、筑後国の東にある豊後国を本拠としていた大友氏、もう一つは筑後国の西の肥前国にいた龍造寺氏です。その結果、筑後国はこの2つの戦国大名の争いの場となりました。この時代に、篠原(ささはら)城と呼ばれた砦のような城が、後の久留米城と同じ場所に築かれました。このような経緯の中で、この城の主は頻繁に入れ替わりました。

筑後国の範囲と久留米城の位置

毛利秀包、有馬氏によって城が完成

豊臣秀吉による天下統一がなされる過程で、1587年に毛利秀包(ひでかね)がこの城の城主に抜擢されました。彼は城の大改修を行い、名前を久留米城と改めました。ところが、彼は1600年の関ヶ原の戦いの敗戦(敗れた西軍に味方したため)により改易となってしまいます。その代わりに、岡崎城の城主あった田中氏が、筑後国の柳川城主として移ってきました。久留米城は、柳川城の支城となり、1615年には徳川幕府により発せられた一国一城令により廃城となってしまいました。その後、田中氏も跡継ぎがないことで改易となってしまい、今度は有馬氏が久留米藩の藩主として1621年に久留米城を再建します。有馬氏は、久留米城を完成させ、江戸時代末期まで藩を統治しました。

毛利秀包肖像画、玄済寺所蔵  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

久留米城は、城の北側から西側に流れる筑後川沿いにありました。城の東側は、筑前堀など三重の水堀によって囲まれていました。城下町は、城の南側に建設されました。四つの曲輪が水堀によって隔てられており、外郭、三の丸、二の丸、本丸が城下町のとなりから北に向かって一列に並んでいました。敵が城を占領しようとする場合、最初に城下町を攻撃し、そして曲輪を一つずつ攻略しなければなりません。本丸のみが高石垣によって作られており、その他の曲輪は土造りでした。本丸は、城の一番北側の丘の上にあり、御殿と、防御のための櫓が7つもありました。櫓は皆三階建てであり、二階建ての多聞櫓によって連結されていました。その姿は実に壮観だったことでしょう。

久留米城絵図、出典:国立国会図書館、曲輪名は当方が加筆

神道が広まり、藩と城の運命を左右

久留米藩の統治は、平和な江戸時代の間は総じて安定していました。この時代には日本の主要な宗教の一つ、神道が広まりました。神道の主な教義の一つとして、天皇を敬うということがあり、後の尊王攘夷運動につながりました。この運動はやがて幕末において討幕運動に至ります。多くの神道の信者が久留米に住んでおり、他の地域の神道信者と交流していました。例えば、有名な勤皇家の一人、高山彦九郎は久留米を3回訪れ、1793年ここで亡くなりました(幕府に目を付けられ、知人宅で自ら命を絶ちました)。久留米水天宮の神官であった真木和泉は、1864年の禁門の変に加わりました(攘夷派の長州側に参戦しましたが敗れました)。

京都にある高山彦九郎像  (taken by あじのすけ from photoAC)

しかし久留米藩は、新政府が幕府を倒した明治維新において、主導的な役割を果たせませんでした。藩の中で激しい内部抗争が行われたからです。藩は、新政府に対してもその開国方針に異議を唱えたりしました(明治になってから攘夷派が藩の実権を握ったためです)。ついには、藩主が罰せられてしまい、1871年には政府によって久留米城が占拠されました。そのときをもって、城の歴史が終わりました。

久留米城の古写真 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「久留米城その2」に続きます。

88.Yoshinogari Ruins Part3

The ruins became the Yoshinogari Historical Park instead of an industrial park.

Later History

With the start of the Burial Mound Period in at the late 3rd Century, the Yoshinogari settlement rapidly decreased. Four keyhole-shaped burial mounds were built on the land of Yoshinogari. After a long time, local historians noticed that a lot of pieces of burial jars and earthenware were found in the area about 100 years ago. In 1986, Saga Prefecture decided to develop the area as an industrial park. As a result, before the development, there were some research on the buried cultural properties. Yoshinogari Ruins were meant to be destroyed after the research. However, the huge scale ruins were revealed in 1989. The media reported the ruins sensationally as if they were the Yamatai Country. Visitors suddenly rushed to the ruins, too. The prefecture reversed its decision and announced it would preserve the ruins instead. The ruins were designated as a National Special Historic Site in 1991. The Yoshinogari Historical Park finally opened in 2001.

The aerial photo of Hashihaka-kofun Tumulus, a representative keyhole-shaped burial mound in the 3rd Century in Nara Prefecture

Unearthed relics at Yoshinogari site, in the Exhibition Room
A distant view of the Yoshinogari Historical Park

My Impression

I think there are no other ruins like the Yoshinogari Ruins, which show the real image of the Yayoi Period. The ruins can be seen as a theme park rather than a historical park. You can see the settlements already had some elements of castles found in Japan later on. However, it’s up to you whether Yoshinogari Ruins should be considered are a kind of castle or not. I recommend visiting them and making your own impression.

The entrance of the North Inner Enclosure
The restored circular moats with fences at the Moat-Enclose Entrance Grounds

How to get There

If you want to visit the ruins by car, it is a few minutes away from Higashi-Sefuri IC on the Nagasaki Expressway.
You can park in the parking lots for visitors in the park.
If you want to use public transportation, it takes about 15 minutes on foot from the JR Yoshinogari-koen Station.
To get to Yoshinogari-koen Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the limited express from Hakata Station and transfer to the local train on the Nagasaki Line at Tosu Station, after using the Shinkansen super express or by plane.

Links and References

Yoshinogari Historical Park

That’s all. Thank you.
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