91.Shimabara Castle Part1

A castle sharing the fate of the Shimabara Rebellion

Location and History

Matsukura Clan builds Castle as their Home base

Shimabara Castle is located in the Shimabara Peninsula, the western part of the Kyushu Region. The Arima Clan basically governed the area around the peninsula in the Middle Ages. Harunobu Arima, the lord of the clan in the late 16th Century, was known as a Christian feudal lord. Because of that, Christianity spread around the peninsula greatly. However, he was punished by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1612. His son was also transferred to another place in 1614. After that, Shigemasa Matsukura was appointed to the lord of the Shimabara Domain by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1616. He first lived in Hinoe Castle, where the Arima Clan lived, but soon decided to build a new castle as his home base, known as Shimabara Castle and completed in 1624.

The location of the castle

The replica of the statue of Harunobu Arima, exhibited by Arima Christian Heritage Museum, the original statue is owned by Daiunji Temple

The Shimabara Domain was a relatively a small domain which earned 43,000 koku of rice. However, the castle was said to be worth that of a domain with 100,000 koku of rice. That meant the people in the Shimabara Domain suffered high taxes and worked hard to build the castle. The castle had three enclosures in a line from the south to the north. The Main and Second Enclosures were in the Inner Moat and both were connected by only the roofed Passage Bridge called Roka-bashi. If enemies from the outside wanted to attack the Main Enclosure, they had to first enter the entrance of the Second Enclosure.

Part of Illustration of Shimabara Castle and environs with my comments, owned by Kumamoto Prefectural Library, exhibited by Shimabara Castle
The ruins of the roofed Passage Bridge

High Stone Walls and Five leveled Main Tower

All the enclosures were also surrounded by zigzagging high stone walls allowing the defenders to eliminate blind spots and make a flank attack. In particular, the Main Enclosure had the Main Tower and eleven turrets. The Main Tower had five levels and was built in a typical method called Multi-storied type. Other Main Towers in other castles usually had decorations such as gables and bell-shaped windows. The Main Tower of Shimabara Castle simply had square floors diminishing towards the top with minimal roofing. This method made building the tower more efficient and also easy to protect.

The zigzagging high stone walls
The restored Multi-storied type Main Tower

Shimabara Rebellion occurs due to Matsukura Clan’s oppression

Shigemasa oppressed the people in his territory with heavy taxes to have more income. After the Tokugawa Shogunate banned people from being Christians, he tortured them if they didn’t convert. His way seemed to be loyal to the shogunate. After he died in 1630, his son, Katsuie rapidly followed in his father’s footsteps. People, including the Christians in Shimabara Peninsula, were angry and started the Shimabara Rebellion in 1637. They first attacked Shimabara Castle. They were professionally trained by the masterless warriors who were former retainers of the Arima Clan. Katsuie was not in the castle but in Edo, however, his retainers repelled the uprising army. The castle ironically proved its strength by fighting against the citizens.

The figures showing Matsukura Clan’s oppression, exhibited by Arima Christian Heritage Museum
Otemon Battle in Shimabara Uprising, exhibited by Shimabara Castle

The uprising people were defeated after they were besieged in Hara Castle for three months. The shogunate banned the Matsukura Clan from ruling over the Shimabara Domain. Katsuie Matsukura was executed due to his misgovernment. After that, several clans governed the domain and Shimabara Castle by the end of the Edo Period. In 1792, when the Matsudaira Clan governed, a great natural disaster known as Shimabara Taihen happened. An earthquake and eruption from Mt. Unzen caused the collapse of Mt. Mayuyama in front of it. The debris flowing from the mountain killed a lot of people and the castle was also partly destroyed by the earthquake.

Part of the folding screens of Shimabara Rebellion, owned by Asakura City Akizuki Museum, from the exhibition of Arima Christian Heritage Museum
The ruins of Hara Castle
A drawing of Shimabara Taihen, exhibited by Shimabara Castle

To be continued in “Shimabara Castle Part2”

91.島原城 その1

島原の乱に宿命づけられた城

立地と歴史

松倉氏が本拠地として築城

島原城は、九州地方の西部分に位置する島原半島にある城です。中世の期間、この半島の周辺地は、基本的には有馬氏が支配していました。16世紀後半の有馬氏の当主であった有馬晴信は、キリシタン大名として知られていました。そのため、キリスト教はこの半島周辺に急速に広まったのです。ところが、彼は1612年に徳川幕府により罰せられてしまいます。彼の息子も1614年に他の地に移されました。その後、松倉重政が1616年に徳川幕府により島原藩主として宛がわれました。彼は最初は有馬氏が居城としていた日野江城に住んでいましたが、すぐに自身の本拠地として新しい城を築くことを決めました。これが島原城で、1624年に完成しました。

城の位置

有馬晴信像複製、福井県坂井市台雲寺蔵、有馬キリシタン遺産記念館にて展示

島原藩は比較的小規模の藩であり、4万3千石の石高を有していました。ところが、この城は10万石の規模の藩の城に値すると言われていました。このことは、島原藩の領民が高い年貢に苦しみ、城の建設にも多くの労役に駆り出されていたことを意味します。この城には3つの曲輪があり、南から北に向かって一列に並んでいました。本丸と二の丸は内堀に囲まれており、廊下橋によってのみつながっていました。城の外から敵が本丸を攻めようとしても、まず二の丸の入口を攻撃する必要があったのです。

「島原城廻之絵図」部分に加筆、熊本県立図書館蔵、島原城天守閣の展示より
廊下橋跡

高石垣と5層の天守

また、全ての曲輪は屏風折れの高石垣に囲まれており、守備兵から見て死角をなくし、敵に対して側面攻撃を可能としていました。特に本丸には、天守と11もの櫓がありました。天守は5層で、典型的な層塔型に作られていました。他の城にある天守は通常、破風や火灯窓などの装飾がありました。島原城の天守は単純に四角いフロアが、上階に向かって逓減して積まれており、屋根も最小限のものでした。この方式により、天守の建設がより効率的になり、防衛にも適していました。

本丸の屏風折れの高石垣
復元された層塔型の天守

松倉氏の圧政により島原の乱が勃発

重政は、領民に圧政を加え、より多くの収入を得るために重税を課しました。徳川幕府がキリスト教を禁じた後は、改宗しないキリシタンを拷問しました。これは、幕府に忠誠を誓う彼なりのやり方だったようです。重政が亡くなった後、彼の息子、勝家は父親のやり方を踏襲し、更にエスカレートしました。クリスチャンを含む島原半島の人々は憤激し、1637年に島原の乱を起こしました。彼らはまず島原城を攻撃しました。反乱軍は、以前有馬氏に仕えていた浪人たちによって相当高いレベルまで訓練されていました。勝家はそのとき、城ではなく江戸に滞在していました。しかし、彼の部下たちが反乱軍を撃退しました。島原城は皮肉にも、住民たちと戦うことでその強さを証明したのです。

松倉氏の圧政の様子を再現した展示、有馬キリシタン遺産記念館
「島原の乱大手門の戦い」、島原城天守閣にて展示

反乱軍の人たちは、原城に3ヶ月籠城した後鎮圧されました。幕府は松倉氏に対して、島原藩の藩主から改易処分を言い渡しました。松倉勝家は、失政のかどで処刑されました。その後、いくつかの大名家が島原藩と島原城を江戸時代末まで統治しました。1792年、松平氏の施政下において、島原大変と呼ばれる大規模な天災が発生しました。雲仙岳で発生した噴火と地震が、その手前にある眉山の崩壊を引き起こしたのです。山からの土石流により、多くの人々が亡くなりました。島原城もこの災害により一部が破壊されました。

島原陣図屏風部分、秋月郷土館蔵、有馬キリシタン遺産記念館の展示より
原城跡
島原大変を記録した絵図、島原城天守閣にて展示

「島原城その2」に続きます。

188.Hara Castle Part3

The ruins became a world heritage.

Features

Natural Terrain supporting Castle

You can also walk on the promenade along the seaside from the parking lot and look up at the steep natural cliff under the Second Enclosure. Surprisingly, this cliff was created by the great pyroclastic flow from Mt. Aso over Ariake Sea about 90,000 years ago.

The promenade along the seaside
The steep cliff under the Second Enclosure
The cliff of the Main Enclosure

Later History

After the Shimabara Rebellion, the shogunate settled Buddhist farmers in the Shimabara Peninsula. That’s why there have been very few Christians in the area until now. The ruins of Hara Castle were designated as a National Historic Site in 1938. However, the details of the castle have recently been revealed since the excavation started in 1990. As a result, they have been on the World Heritage List as Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region since 2018.

The stone walls of the Main Enclosure
The Second Enclosure on the hill

My Impression

After the Shimabara Rebellion, it is said that the governance of the lords under the shogunate became relatively gentle and they sometimes overlook underground Christians who were harmless. I think the precious sacrifice of the uprising people in the Shimabara Rebellion was not for nothing. Many details about the rebellion and Hara Castle are still unknown, so I hope that the facts of them will become clearer little by little in the future.

The ruins of the Turret base at the Main Enclosure
The cross-shaped monument at the Main Enclosure

How to get There

If you want to visit the ruins by car, it is about 75 minutes away from Nagasaki IC on the Nagasaki Expressway.
You can park in the parking lots for visitors beside a spa facility called Harajo Onsen Masago.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Shimatetsu Bus from Shimabara Station on the Shimabara Railway and get off at the Harajo-mae bus stop.
If you go there from Tokyo or Osaka, I recommend going to Nagasaki Airport by plane. After that, you can take the shuttle bus to Isahaya Station and transfer to the Shimabara Railway at the station.

The spa facility called Harajo Onsen Masago
A view of Mt. Unzen from around the parking lot

Links and References

A World Heritage City Minamishimabara

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Hara Castle Part1”
Back to “Hara Castle Part2”