36.Maruoka Castle Part2

The attractive Main Tower that is discussed by many, from then until now.

Features

Old looking Main Tower

Today, Maruoka Castle has only the remaining Main Tower on the hill at the site. The Main Tower is about 12m high with two levels and three stories, not so large compared with the other remaining Main Towers in Japan. However, it stands out when you see it from the area around. It has a 6m high stone wall base and is on a 27m high hill.

The Main Tower standing out on the hill

The map around the
castle

If you drive to the castle, you can park at the parking lot in the former Second Enclosure and walk to the Main Tower on the well-developed route for visitors.

The parking lot, former Second Enclosure
The route to the Main Tower

You may feel the Main Tower looks very old like many other people who feel the same way. This type of the tower is called the Lookout Tower Type, which refers to a small lookout tower on a large turret with the hip-and-gable roof. This type is considered the first one among the Main Towers in Japan. The top floor of Maruoka Castle’s Main Tower has a veranda, which is a feature of the early Lookout Tower Type. Its many wooden parts were left bare in the tower, which is also a feature of that type. In addition, the rooftiles of the tower are made of stone because of the cold climate in the winter around this area. This is the only case in the twelve remaining Main Towers. These rooftiles make the tower look older, too. For these reasons, many people expected the Main Tower of Maruoka Castle to be the oldest remaining one in Japan.

The old-fashioned Main Tower of Maruoka Castle
The stone rooftiles seen through the window of the second floor of the tower

Is Main Tower of Maruoka Castle Oldest or not?

On the other hand, some specialists argued that the Main Tower of Maruoka Castle is not as old as the other remaining ones. One of the reasons for it is that the veranda is not practical, just for decoration. Using verandas for decoration can be seen in castle buildings much later than the period the people, who wanted Maruoka Castle to be the oldest, expected. Other architects also argued that the structure of the tower can also be seen much later designs.

You can’t go out to the veranda at the top floor of the tower

The Main Tower of Maruoka Castle has been designated as an Important Cultural Property since 1950. Sakai City thought the tower would become a National Treasure if it was confirmed as the oldest Main Tower in Japan. In 2018, the city conducted research to find out when the tower was built with the latest technology. It was mainly done by the growth ring dating method to confirm when the wooden materials of the tower were cut. The result was that the materials were cut in 1620s, and the tower was built in the period or later. It was much later than what the city expected. Overall, the tower is thought to have been built after the Honda Clan became an independent lord of Maruoka Castle. That means the builder of the Main Tower, probably the Honda Clan, built the tower with the old style intentionally.

The Main Tower of Maruoka Castle is not the oldest

Interior of Main Tower

The Main Tower is not the oldest, but of course, it is worth visiting. You can climb up on the original stone steps to the first floor of the tower.

The entrance of the Main Tower

The floor is the large room in the turret part, and it has a lot of columns to support the weight of the tower including the stone rooftiles.

The first floor of the tower

The floor also has loopholes for guns and bay windows used for machicolations along the walls to protect the tower.

One of the loopholes for guns
One of the bay windows

You can also climb up the very steep stairway at 65 degrees to the second floor, with the rope to help you. The second floor is the attic of the tower part, but it has windows in the roof of the first floor.

The stairway to the second floor
The second floor of the tower

Be careful when you go up to the top floor because the stairway to the floor is steeper at 67 degrees! The top floor has windows in all directions, so is open and bright. You can see a good view of the city area and the back of the ridge-end tiles made of stone from the floor.

The steeper stairway to the too floor
The top floor of the tower
A view from the top floor
The back of one of the ridge-end tiles

To be continued in “Maruoka Castle Part3”
Back to “Maruoka Castle Part1”

36.丸岡城 その2

魅力的な天守について、これまでずっと議論がかわされてきました。

特徴、見どころ

とても古く見える天守

今日、丸岡城には本丸の丘陵部分に天守だけが残っています。天守は約12mの高さがあり、2層3階です。日本に残っている他の天守に比べるとそんなに大きくはありません。しかし、天守を周辺から眺めてみると、27mの丘陵と6mの高さの天守台石垣の上に立っているので、よく目立って見えます。

丘の上で目立っている天守

城周辺の地図

もし車で来られるのでしたら、元二の丸だった所にある駐車場に車を停めて、観光客向けによく整備された通路を通って天守の方に歩いて行くことができます。

元二の丸だった駐車場
天守への通路

天守を見たとき、とても古いものに感じるかもしれません。他の多くの人たちも同じような感想を持っています。この天守のタイプは望楼型と呼ばれていて、入母屋屋根を持つ大型の櫓の上に小型の望楼が乗っています。このタイプは、日本の天守の中では初期のものとされています。丸岡城天守の最上階には回り縁が取り付けられていて、これは望楼型でも初期のものに該当する特徴です。また、多くの板張りの部分がむき出しになっていて、これも初期望楼型の特徴です。更に、この地域の冬の寒冷な気候にも耐えられるようにするため、この天守の瓦は石で作られています。12ある現存天守の中では唯一の事例です。この瓦がより一層天守を古く見せているのです。これらの理由により、多くの人々は丸岡城天守は、日本で最古の天守ではないかと思っていたのです。

古風な丸岡城天守
天守二階の窓から見える石瓦

丸亀城天守は最古か否か

一方専門家の中には、丸岡城天守は他の現存天守と比べてそんなに古くはないと主張している人もいました。その理由の一つは、丸岡城天守の回り縁は実用的ではなく、単なる飾りであるというものでした。回り縁を飾りに使うのは、丸岡城天守が一番古いと思っている人たちが期待する時期より、ずっと後の時代の城に見られるというのです。建築家の中にも、丸岡城天守の設計にもずっと後の時代に見られる特徴があるという意見がありました。

天守最上階では回り縁に出ることはできません

丸岡城天守は1950年以来、重要文化財に指定されてきました。そして坂井市は、もしこの天守が最古であると確認されれば、今度は国宝になるのではないかと考えたのです。2018年、坂井市は最新の科学技術を使っていつ天守ができたのか判明させるべく、調査を行いました。この調査は主に年輪年代測定という手法により行われ、天守の建造に使われた木材がいつ切り出されたのか確認したのです。その結果、その木材は1620年代に伐採され、天守はその時代かもっと後に作られたというものでした。この結果は市が期待していた時代より随分後でした。つまるところ、この天守は本多氏が丸岡城の独立城主となった後に建造されたと考えられるのです。天守の建築者は恐らく本多氏で、意図的に古いスタイルで建造したということになります。

最古ではなかった丸岡城天守

天守の内部

丸岡城天守は最古ではありませんでした。しかし訪れる価値は十分にあります。まずは、オリジナルの石段を登って天守の一階に入ります。

天守の入口

一階は櫓部分にあたり、屋内はかなり広くなっています。そして、石瓦を含む天守の重みを支えるために、多くの柱があります。

天守の一階部分

また壁沿いには天守防衛のために作られた、鉄砲狭間や、石落としが備えてある出窓の空間を見ることができます。

鉄砲狭間
出窓の空間

そして二階に行くには、65度の角度があり補助ロープさえ付いている、とても急な階段を登っていきます。二階は望楼部分の屋根裏部屋になっていますが、一階の屋根部分を使った窓が備えてあります。

二階への階段
天守二階

最上階に行くときもよく気を付けてください。最上階への階段は、更に急で角度が67度もあります。最上階には全ての方角に窓があり、開放的で明るくなっています。そこからは、市街地の眺めを楽しめるとともに、石でできた鬼瓦の後ろ姿を見ることができます。

更に急な最上階への階段
天守最上階
最上階からの眺め
鬼瓦の裏側

「丸岡城その3」に続きます。
「丸岡城その1」に戻ります。

36.Maruoka Castle Part1

A castle in the northern part of Echizen Province

Location and History

Katsutoyo Shibata builds Castle in Sengoku Period

Maruoka Castle was located in the northern part of Echizen Province, which is now Sakai City, Fukui Prefecture. The castle has one of the twelve remaining Main Towers in Japan. The castle was first built in 1576 during the Sengoku Period by Katsutoyo Shibata when his relative, Katsuie Shibata owned the province. After the Shibata Clan was defeated by Hideyoshi Hashiba in 1583, several clans such as the Matsudaira Clan owned the castle. The details of the early history of the castle are uncertain, but it is thought that it had the first Main Tower from that period. This is because the remaining stone wall base for the first Main Tower is older than the present Main Tower.

The location of the castle

The remaining Main Tower of Maruoka Castle
The stone wall base for the Main Tower

Narishige Honda becomes independent as Maruoka Domain

In 1624, Narishige Honda who was a senior vassal of the Matsudaira Clan became an independent lord of Maruoka Castle as the founder of the Maruoka Domain. He started to renovate the castle, including rebuilding of the present Main Tower. The renovation was completed in the period of Narishige’s son.

The illustration of Narishige Honda (in the left, the right one is his father, Shigetsugu Honda), exhibited in the Main Tower

The Main Enclosure with the Main Tower was on a hill. The Second Enclosure with the Ninomaru Main Hall was on a flat area beside the Main Enclosure. These enclosures were surrounded by the Inner Moat like a pentagon. It is said that the shape of the moat was meant to make enemies confused when they would attack the castle. In addition, the Third Enclosure with the warriors’ houses and the Outer Moat surrounded the Inner Moat.

The miniature model of Maruoka Castle, the Main Enclosure on the left, the Second Enclosure on the right
Part of the illustration of Maruoka Castle in Echizen Province, in the Edo Period, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

Arima Clan governs Castle until end of Edo Period

In 1695, the Honda Clan was fired by the Tokugawa Shogunate due to the clan’s internal trouble. As a result, the Arima Clan became the lord of Maruoka Castle and the Maruoka Domain. The clan maintained the castle and governed the domain until the end of the Edo Period.

The family crest of the Arima Clan called the Arima Gourd (licensed by Fraxinus2 via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Maruoka Castle Part2”