108.Tsurugaoka Castle Part2

Today, the ruins of Tsurugaoka Castle have been developed as Tsuruoka Park. The site seems to have a different atmosphere from other castles or castle ruins. One of the reasons may be that the castle originally had water moats and earthen walls but few stone walls, giving the park a more scenic look for the visitors.

Features

Site looks Scenic and Retro-Modern

Today, the ruins of Tsurugaoka Castle have been developed as Tsuruoka Park. The site seems to have a different atmosphere from other castles or castle ruins. One of the reasons may be that the castle originally had water moats and earthen walls but few stone walls, giving the park a more scenic look for the visitors.

The map around the castle

Tsuruoka Park

Another reason is that there are several historical modern buildings around the park, most of which are in the Chido Museum. The museum is in the former Third Enclosure of the castle, where the lord’s residence was built. That’s why there is the Sakai Clan Garden which probably originates from the residence inside. The garden has also been designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty. In addition, the current residence beside the garden was part of the retreat for the 9th lord, Tadaaki Sakai during the end of the Edo Period. The modern historical buildings, such as the former Tsuruoka Police Office built in the Meiji Era, were collected from somewhere in the city. Surprisingly, the museum director is a descendant of the Sakai Clan, who still live in the city.

The Chido Museum on the left and the Tsuruoka Park on the right
The Sakai Clan Garden
The retreat called Goinden
The former Tsuruoka Police Office

Entrances of old and current site

The park consists of the Main Enclosure in the center and partially the second enclosure surrounding. It has five entrances, the same number as in the past, but each has a different appearance or location. For example, the eastern entrance of the park was the Main Gate in the second enclosure, which was protected by the Masugata system. However, the system was removed and turned into the city area. The current path from the entrance goes straight to the center but past visitors had to go around to Naka-no-mon Gate (meaning the Middle Gate) at the southern side of the Main Enclosure after crossing Naka-no-hashi Bridge (meaning the Middle Bridge) over the Inner Moat.

The part of the Main Gate in the miniature model exhibited by the Chido Museum
The eastern entrance of the park (the Main Gate Ruins)
Past visitors had to go around from the Main Gate on the right to Naka-no-mon Gate in the front, according to the miniature model above
Current visitors can go straight to the center using the approach to Shonai Shrine

Meanwhile, the current southern entrance may be similar to the original Naka-no-mon Gate, where you can go across a bridge over the moat like the visitors used to cross the Naka-no-hashi Bridge. There is another traditional and beautiful modern building, called Taihokan Museum, behind the bridge, which was originally built in 1915 as a commercial museum, but has now become another historical museum. Therefore, you may feel a retro-modern atmosphere rather than from the castle’s period.

The part of the Naka-no-mon Gate in the miniature model above
The current southern entrance of the park, taken by FRANK211 from photo AC
The Naka-no-hashi Bridge was built near the current bridge
The Taihokan Museum
The Naka-no-mon Gate was built at the current Taihokan Museum

Shonai Shrine and Corner Turret Ruins in Main Enclosure

There are no castle buildings in the park. Instead, Shonai Shrine is in the Main Enclosure, which worships four ancestors of the Sakai Clan including Tadakatsu Sakai, the founder of the Shonai Domain. The shrine was established in 1877 in a part of a trend at that time of establishing shrines at abandoned castle sites. If you want to see something of castle-like items, you can go to the back of the shrine at the northern side of the enclosure. There are still surrounding earthen walls and also the ruins of the Corner Turret which was the substitute for a Main Tower.

The Shonai Shrine
The earthen walls surrounding the Main Enclosure
The ruins of the Corner Turret

To be continued in “Tsurugaoka Castle Part3”
Back to “Tsurugaoka Castle Part1”

108.鶴ヶ岡城 その2

現在、鶴ヶ岡城跡は鶴岡公園として整備されています。現地に行ってみると、他の城や城跡とは違う雰囲気を感じます。その理由の一つは、この城には元から水堀や土塁はありましたが、石垣はほとんどなく、訪れる人にのどかな印象を与えているからでしょう。

特徴、見どころ

長閑とレトロモダンな雰囲気が共存

現在、鶴ヶ岡城跡は鶴岡公園として整備されています。現地に行ってみると、他の城や城跡とは違う雰囲気を感じます。その理由の一つは、この城には元から水堀や土塁はありましたが、石垣はほとんどなく、訪れる人にのどかな印象を与えているからでしょう。

城周辺の地図

鶴岡公園

もう一つの理由は、公園の周りにモダンな歴史的建造物があるからで、そのうちのほとんどは致道博物館(ちどうはくぶつかん)にあります。この博物館は、以前城の三の丸だった所にあり、かつては領主の屋敷がありました。そのために、博物館の中には屋敷だったときから存在していたと思われる酒井氏庭園があります。この庭園は、国の名勝にも指定されています。また、現在庭園に隣接する屋敷は、9代目藩主の酒井忠発(さかいただあき)が幕末に住んでいた隠居所の一部です。他にも、明治時代に建てられた旧鶴岡警察署庁舎などの近代の歴史的建造物が、市内の各所から集められています。驚いたことに、博物館の館長は藩主酒井氏のご子孫の方で、今でも市内に住んでおられるそうです。

左側が致道博物館、右側が鶴岡公園
酒井氏庭園
現存する隠居所「御隠殿」
旧鶴岡警察署庁舎

かつてと現代の城への入口

公園の真ん中には本丸があり、二の丸が部分的にその周りを囲んでいます。公園には入口が5つありますが、その数は過去と一緒です。しかしそれぞれの外観や位置は異なっています。例えば公園の東入口は、かつては二の丸にあった大手門で、桝形によって防御されていました。しかし桝形は撤去されて、市街地になっています。その入口からは通路がまっすぐ中心部に伸びていますが、かつてはそこから回り込んで内堀を渡る中の橋を渡って、本丸南側の中の門に向かう必要がありました。

致道博物館にある城模型の大手門部分
現在の公園東入口(大手門跡)
過去には右側の大手門から手前の中の門に回り込む必要がありました、上記模型より
現在はまっすぐ中心部に入っていけます(荘内神社の参道)

一方で、現在の公園の南入口は、オリジナルの中の門に近いかもしれません。かつて中の橋を渡ったように、堀の上の橋を渡っていきます。その橋を渡ると、もう一つの美しい外観の近代歴史建造物があります。大宝館(たいほうかん)という名前で、1915年に建てられ当初は物産陳列場として使われましたが、現在ではここも歴史博物館になっています。よって、この辺りは城の時代というより、レトロモダンな雰囲気を感じるかもしれません。

上記模型の中の橋と中の門の部分
現在の公園南入口 taken by FRANK211 from photo AC
中の橋は現在の橋の近くにありました
大宝館
大宝館の場所に中の門がありました

本丸にある荘内神社と角櫓跡

公園には城の建物はありませんが、本丸には荘内神社があり、庄内藩祖の酒井忠勝など、酒井氏の4人の先祖を祀っています。神社は1877年に設立されましたが、当時は廃城となった場所に神社を建てるのが流行っていたのです。城らしいものをご覧になりたいのでしたら、本丸の北側、神社の裏手の方に行ってみて下さい。本丸を今でも囲む土塁や、天守代用となった角櫓の跡があります。

荘内神社
本丸に残る土塁
本丸角櫓跡

「鶴ヶ岡城その3」に続きます。
「鶴ヶ岡城その1」に戻ります。

108.Tsurugaoka Castle Part1

Tadakatsu Sakai, the founder of the Shonai Domain, was wondering which castle would be better for his home base, Tsurugaoka or Kamegaoka. His decision was to take Tsurugaoka because he thought Tsurugaoka would be the political center while Kamegaoka would be commercial with Sakata port and town.

Location and History

Shonai Domain has Political Tsurugaoka and Commercial Sakata

The Shonai area of Yamagata Prefecture is a granary on the Shonai Plain, which is known for Shonai Rice. There are two large cities, Tsuruoka and Sakata, in the area. When the area was governed by the Shonai Domain during the Edo Period, the cities shared their respective roles. Tsuruoka was political and Sakata was commercial. Turuagaoka Castle was located in the current Tsuruoka City, which was the home base of the domain, ruled by the Sakai Clan.

The ranges of Tsuruoka and Sakata Cities and the location of the castle

The castle was originally called Daihoji Castle which was first built by a local lord, the Muto Clan, sometime in the early Middle Ages. It was one of their several castles, and its size was still small. As time passed by, the area was targeted by greater warlords from outside, such as the Uesugi and Mogami Clans in the late 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. These clans battled over this area while the power of the Muto Clan declined. Daihoji Castle and Tozenji Castle, which was located in the current Sakata City, were improved by them. In the early 17th Century when the Tokugawa Shogunate was established by Ieyasu Tokugawa, the Shonai area was governed by Yoshimitsu Mogami, based in Yamagata Castle. He renamed Daihoji Castle to Tsurugaoka (meaning the Hill of Cranes) and Tozenji Castle to Kamegaoka (meaning the Hill of Turtles). Cranes and turtles (and Pine trees) have been lucky words for Japanese people because they believed these animals had longer lives than humans. He did it after he had heard that a big turtle was found at the seaside near Tozenji Castle. However, the Mogami Clan was banished by the shogunate in 1622 due to their internal troubles after Yoshimitu died.

Yoshiaki Mogami from Battle of Hasedo Standing Screen (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Yamagata Castle

The territory of the Mogami Clan was apportioned to several other lords, one of which, the Shonai area was given to Tadakatsu Sakai as the founder of the Shonai Domain. He was a grandchild of Tadatsugu Sakai, known as One of the Four Generals Serving Ieyasu Tokugawa. That’s why the Sakai Clan had been a senior vassal of the shogun and had loyalty to the shogunate. Tadakatsu was wondering which castle would be better for his home base, Tsurugaoka or Kamegaoka. In terms of defense, Kamegaoka was better. However, his decision was to take Tsurugaoka because he thought Tsurugaoka would be the political center while Kamegaoka would be commercial with Sakata port and town.

The portrait of Tadakatsu Sakai, owned by Chido Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Originally, Tsurugaoka Castle was said to have had only the Main and Second Enclosures made of soil, with simple residences, surrounded by double water moats, on a plain land. It would be too small for the Sakai Clan’s home base and not defensive when a battle happened there. So, Tadakatsu started to improve the castle by building the large Third Enclosure and the castle town outside. The Main Hall for the lord was also built in the Main Enclosure. The Main and Second Enclosures had five entrances, which were protected by the Masugata system or the Umadashi system which the Tokugawa relatives had used to build. The Masugata refers to a square defensive space inside the gate and the Umadashi is a small round enclosure which sticks out from the gate. On the other hand, the castle had few stone walls, still mostly made of soil, and had no Main Tower unlike other castles of the Tokugawa relatives. A two-level turret was built on a corner of the Main Enclosure as a substitute of the tower. Overall, the castle can be seen as a mixing of the legacy of the area and the Tokugawa method.

The reconstruction of Tsurugaoka Castle from the signboard at the site, adding colored circles, the Umadashi systems in the red circles and the Masugata systems in the blue circles
The miniature model of the castle, seen from the same direction as above (the east), exhibited by Chido Museum
The main enclosure in the miniature model, seen from the west, the substitute for the Main Tower is in the red circle

Deadlock and Reform of Government

The early government of the Shonai Domain was actually unstable. Tadakatsu’s tax policy was harsh because he wanted to have more income to contribute to the shogunate. However, the Tohoku Region including the Shonai area often suffered damage from cold weather, droughts, and floods. Despite these variable situations, the domain asked the farmers to pay the same amount of taxes every year. That resulted in many farmers fleeing the area, having huge debt, and even selling their families, leaving the area devastated.

A wealthy merchant of Sakata town, Mitsuoka Honma saved the domain during the late 18th Century. Ocean voyages were prohibited by the shogunate due to its policy of closing the country, but coastal sailing in small crafts became a major mean of transportation. Sakata port was one of the transport hubs, which made the town and merchants so rich. That’s why the domain asked Mitsuoka for help to solve its financial problems. He provided not only enormous tax money but also was in charge of financial matters of the domain. The domain changed the ways to treat the farmers flexibly as well. It also opened the domain school called Chidokan in 1805 to educate the domain retainers. The situation was getting better and the people in the area became united.

The miniature model of a large Japanese junk called Benzai-sen, which was used for the coastal sailing, exhibited by Chido Museum
The tablet of Chidokan domain school, which was used during the Edo Period

Reform is proven during End of Edo Period

The result of the reform was proven in 1840 when the shogunate ordered the Shonai Domain to move to another and the Matsudaira Clan would be expected to come from the Kawagoe Domain. The movement of the people including farmers in the Shonai Domain against the shogunate’s decision occurred. They urged the shogunate that they wanted to be with the lords of the Sakai Clan. In fact, the movement might have been triggered by suggestions from some warriors, who didn’t want to move, that the next lord would be too strict. As a result, the order was canceled, which was a very rare case during the Edo Period.

The picture of people celebrating the cancelation of the movement in front of the castle, exhibited by the domain school

When the shogunate collapsed and the new government was established in 1868 during the Meiji Restoration, several domains in the Tohoku Region, including the Shonai Domain, made an alliance to be against the government. The Shonai’s troops led by a senior vassal, Genba Sakai were organized by warriors, farmers and even merchants, and were very strong. This was because the Honma Clan imported advanced foreign weapons and gave them to the troops. They repelled the Government Army and attacked other domains supporting the government instead. However, all of their allies were defeated or surrendered to the government before the last lord, Tadazumi Sakai also decided to surrender though his troops and Tsurugaoka Castle were intact.

Genba Sakai, in the early Meiji Era (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Tsurugaoka Castle Part2”