175.Shozui Castle Part1

The center of Awa Province in the Middle Ages

Location and History

Castle starts as Governor’s Residence

Shozui Castle prospered between the mid 14th Century and the late 16th Century as the center of Awa Province on Shikoku Island (what is now Tokushima Prefecture). The castle was first launched as the official residence of the province’s governor by the Hosokawa Clan which was a senior vassal of the Ashikaga Shogunate. Awa Province was a fertile land near Kyoto which was the center of Japan. The castle was also located alongside Yoshino-gawa River, the largest river in Shikoku Island, so it was convenient for water transportation and trade. As a result, the castle became an important base for the clan.

The location of the castle

Castle is developed as Miyoshi Clan’s Home Base

In the mid 16th Century, Nagayoshi Miyoshi, who was a retainer of the Hosokawa Clan, became the ruler instead of Hosokawa. He lived in Imori Castle near Kyoto to govern the center of Japan, while his little brother, Jikkyu Miyoshi lived in Shozui Castle. The Miyoshi Clan originally came from Awa Province. They also needed to work closely between Kyoto and Awa to keep their power like the Hosokawa Clan did. For example, Jikkyu took many soldiers from Awa to battle in Kinki Region, including Kyoto, when his big brother, Nagayoshi was in danger.

The portrait of Nagayoshi Miyoshi, owned by Juko-in of Daitokuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Imori Castle
The portrait of Jikkyu Miyoshi, owned by Myokokuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Jikkyu also developed Shozui Castle. The castle became larger, having several enclosures separated by the water moats, including the Main Hall and a Japanese rock garden. According to the excavation, valuable Chinese ceramic ware was traded and ceremonies like parties and cockfights were often held there. Though the castle was surrounded by rivers such as Yoshino-gawa River as natural hazards, the castle itself still didn’t have special structures like earthen walls for defense. It could be because the governance of Awa Province was quite stable and there was little need for defense. The water moats were thought to be used for flood control or a reservoir. By this time, the castle was likely called “Shozui Hall” because it probably didn’t have all the features of a castle.

The ruins of “Shozui Hall”

Castle is captured by Chosogabe Clan

However, after Nagayoshi and Jikkyu died in the late 16th Century, the situation changed. Shozui Castle got into some internal troubles and battles as the power of the Miyoshi Clan decreased. In addition, Motochika Chosogabe, a great warlord in Tosa Province (what is now Kochi Prefecture) aimed to capture Awa Province. The Miyoshi Clan then asked the ruler, Nobunaga Oda who owned the center of Japan for help. Hideyoshi Hashiba, who was Nobunaga’s retainer and became a ruler following Nobunaga, sent a letter which says that Shozui should build up its defenses. The Miyoshi Clan extended Shozui Castle by adding the final part for a battle, which was surrounded by high earthen walls and a deep-water moat. With these additions, people can finally call the castle “Shozui Castle” in the end.

The portrait of Motochika Chosogabe, owned by Hada Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of “Shozui Castle”

After Nobugana was suddenly killed in the Honnoji Incident in 1582, the Miyoshi Clan had to fight with the Chosogabe Clan by themselves. In the same year, the battle of Nakatomi-gawa River happened between the clans in the south of Shozui Castle. The Miyoshi Clan was unfortunately defeated and besieged in Shozui Castle for nearly a month. However, the Chozogabe Clan lastly captured Shozui Castle after the Miyoshi Clan withdrew from the castle. The castle was abandoned right away probably because it was not suitable for surviving battles. After that, mountain castles like Ichinomiya Castle became popular in Awa Province.

The ruins of Ichinomiya Castle

To be continued in “Shozui Castle Part2”

164.Sumoto Castle Part3

What is the essential value of this castle?

Features

Attractions of Eastern Enclosure

If you have time, I recommend you seeing the Eastern Enclosure more, which also have many other attractions. For example, there is Jitsugetsu-no-ike Pond, or the Pond of the Sun and the Moon, which was used as a well for the castle. The enclosure also has the ruins of the Second Eastern Gate on the eastern side, which use the oldest stone walls in the castle. Outside the gate ruins, you can look down the eastern Climbing Stone Walls which line from the foot to the top. They look great, but you had better not get too close to them, because part of them collapsed and could be dangerous to explore.

The map around the castle

The Pond of the Sun and the Moon of the Eastern Enclosure
The ruins of the Second Eastern Gate of the Eastern Enclosure
The eastern Climbing Stone Walls

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Sumoto Castle was abandoned and its ruins on the mountain became part of a natural park called Mikuma Park. The imitation Main Tower was built as an attraction for the park. Its area at the foot of the mountain was turned into the city area including a court, a museum, and residences. The stone walls on the mountain have been researched and restored. As a result, the mountain part of the castle was finally designated as a National Historic Site in 1999. On the other hand, the imitation tower will soon cease to exist. However, under the current regulations for National Historic Sites, the tower may not be allowed to be replaced without certain evidence for its original building. Local people want to maintain something for a symbol of the castle, despite the fact that it is still unknown what the castle buildings on the mountain looked like. This is because they were demolished about 400 years ago. How will the local governments such as Sumoto City decide the future of these castles?

The Imitation Main Tower of Sumoto Castle

My Impression

I was really surprised to see such great original stone walls remain in good condition on the mountain. There are few similar cases in Japan. This is because people in Sumoto have been putting great efforts in maintaining them. However, I think these stone walls are not popular despite being the most important element of the castle, so they and their history should be known to more people in other areas. I also hope that all the stone walls of the castle including the Climbing Stone Walls could be made intact. It may be difficult to do it in a short time, but if it is done, Sumoto Castle could become more popular and people in Somoto could have more pride in Sumoto Castle no matter the imitation tower is kept or not.

The stone walls of the Belt Enclosure in front of the Main Gate Ruins
The stone walls of the southwest corner of the Main Enclosure
The Imitation Main Tower on the original stone wall base

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car:
It is about 20 minutes away from Sumoto IC on Kobe-Awaji-Naruto Expressway.
The ruins offer a parking lot near the top of the mountain.
By public transportation, it takes about 40 minutes walking from the Sumoto Bus Center.
You can take an express bus from Osaka or Kobe to the bus center.

The parking lot near the top of the mountain

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Sumoto Castle Part1”
Back to “Sumoto Castle Part2”

164.Sumoto Castle Part2

Great stone walls remain on the mountain.

Features

Castle Entrance was strictly protected

Now, the ruins of Sumoto Castle on the mountain are developed for visitors and maintain their original stone walls. If you drive to the ruins, you can easily park near the top of Mikuma-yama Mountain. The mountain has steep slopes in all directions except for the southeast direction where the diving route is on a gentle slope. For the castle, such a slope could be a weak point, so the strongest defense system in the castle was developed in this direction such as the Main Gate. In fact, the parking lot you can park was one of the enclosures called Umaya or the Stable, which protected the gate. You can also see a great view of Kii Channel to the south from here. That’s why this enclosure could have been used as an observation platform.

The map around the castle

The ruins of the Main Gate
The Stable Enclosure
A view from the Stable Enclosure

From the parking lot to the center of the castle, you will first have to walk on the narrow route along the stone walls of the Eastern Enclosure on the right, and in front of the stone walls of the Southern Enclosure. Then, you will enter the ruins of the Southern Gate of the Eastern Enclosure

The map around the castle

The narrow route to the center of the castle
The entrance is surrounded by the stone walls
The ruins of the Southern Gate of the Eastern Enclosure

If you climb up these stone walls after entering the gate, you can clearly look down the route you passed and understand how such a system protected this spot in the past.

In the case looking down from the stone walls of the Eastern Enclosure
In the case looking down from the ruins of the Corner Turret of the Southern Enclosure
The ruins of the Corner Turret of the Southern Enclosure

After that, you can reach the Main Enclosure by passing the Second Enclosure which is also surrounded by the stone walls.

The stone walls of the Second Enclosure
The entrance of the Second Enclosure

Main Enclosure, symbol of Authority

The Main Enclosure has the greatest and highest stone walls in the castle. It has the front side in the south with the Large Stone Steps and the front entrance called Koguchi. The entrance has a square space inside surrounded by the stone walls, which is also called Uchi-Masugata. You can also climb up the surrounding stone walls and look down the entrance and see the shape of the square space. It is thought that a turret gate building was built on the stone walls, which made the entrance more defensive and displayed the authority of the lord.

The map around the castle

The stone walls of the Main Enclosure
The Large Stone Steps of the Main Enclosure
The Koguchi Entrance of the Main Enclosure
Looking down the Koguchi Entrance

Imitation Main Tower, Symbol of Present Castle

The Main Enclosure also has the imitation Main Tower on the original stone wall base for the Main Tower. It was built to celebrate the enthronization of Emperor Showa in 1928 as a modern observation platform. However, it cannot be used for observation now because it has aged and could prove to be quite dangerous. Therefore, it is used as just a symbol of the castle or a landmark of the city. You can even see a great view of Sumoto city area – the former castle town, and Osaka Bay to the north under the tower. You will once again understand why this was a good location for the castle, which served to protect it and overlook the area around.

The Imitation Main Tower
The name plate installed when the tower was built
The stone wall base for the Main Tower
A view from the base

To be continued in “Sumoto Castle Part3”
Back to “Sumoto Castle Part1”