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58.Akashi Castle Part2

The castle with a defensive system that is still obvious

Features

You can see Castle from Station

If you visit the ruins of Akashi Castle by train, you will see evidence of what was a very sturdy castle from your first step on the platform of Akashi Station. You will see the two remaining three-story turrets called Hitsujisaru Turret (on the left) and Tatsumi Turret (on the right) connected by the plaster wall on the hill. How wonderful they are!

The castle that can be seen from the platform of Akashi Station

The aerial photo around the castle

Around the Main Gate

The ruins of the castle have been developed as part of Akashi Park, inclusive of the inside of the Middle Moat. The front entrance of the park was the Main Gate of the castle. Its stone walls remain forming the square space inside called “Masugata”. The plain area is used as a relaxing zone and facilities such as the stadium which was once the Main Hall for the lord.

The entrance of Akashi Park
The Masugata part of the Main Gate

Defense to protect Main Enclosure

Hitsujisaru Turret of the Main Enclosure stands on the high stone walls in front of you. You can walk up on the stairways towards the turret and reach under the turret and the stone wall base for the Main Tower. However, you can’t enter the enclosure directly. You have to enter it from the back side by going through the Inari Enclosure under it. Enemies would be counterattacked from the Main Enclosure before reaching it.

The standing out Hitsujisaru Turret
The stairway to the Main Enclosure
The blocking stone wall base for the Main Tower
The entrance of the Main Enclosure at the back side

Inside of Main Enclosure

Inside the Main Enclosure, you can see the two remaining turrets close by. They are two out of the twelve remaining three-story turrets in the castles of Japan. The plaster wall between the turrets was restored recently. You can also see a great city view from the observation platform at the middle of the wall. The Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge can also be seen over Tatsumi Turret.

Hitsujisaru Turret you can see close by
The restored plaster wall
A view from the Main Enclosure
You can also see Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge

Second and East Enclosures to support Main Enclosure

The Second Enclosure is the other connecting point to the Main Enclosure. It now has no buildings, but its stone walls and its entrance surrounded by the walls remain in good condition. You can see the good looking Tatsumi Turret in the Main Enclosure from the Second Enclosure. The East Enclosure is next to the Second Enclosure and another entrance of the park.

The entrance the Main Enclosure from the Second Enclosure
Tatsumi Turret that can be seen from the Second Enclosure
The stone walls and stairways of the Second Enclosure
The East Enclosure

To be continued in “Akashi Castle Part3”
Back to “Akashi Castle Part1”

58.Akashi Castle Part1

The castle made the Shogunate governance stable.

Location and History

Node of Land and Sea Transportation

Akashi City is located in the southern part of Hyogo Prefecture alongside Seto Island Sea. The city is connected to Kinki and Chugoku Regions, as an important point for land transport. The area is also close to Awaji and Shikoku Islands, where people got on board ships to the islands in the past. People can go across the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge to get to the islands now.

The location of the castle

The Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge (licensed by Tysto via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle to monitor Lords in western Japan

In 1615, Tokugawa Shogunate defeated the largest rival, Toyotomi Clan. It also ordered other lords to have no other castles than one castle where they lived (Law of One Castle per Province).
Its governance got stable, but it was never satisfied with that. The Shogun, Hidetada Tokugawa told one of the hereditary feudal lords, Tadazane Ogasawara to build a new castle around the Akashi area.

The portrait of Hidetada Tokugawa, owned by Saifuku-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Tadazane Ogasawara, owned by Fukuju-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The purpose of the castle was to monitor the non-hereditary feudal lords in western Japan, who would be against the Shogunate. Himeji Castle was already being used for that purpose, but the Shogunate thought it was not enough. The new castle was named “Akashi Castle”. Akashi Castle was built using natural terrain such as the edge of the hill and the plain areas. The hilly area in the north had the main portion of the castle such as the Main Enclosure and the Second Enclosure, which provided much defense. The area originally had a natural pond called Ko-no-ike which was also used as a moat. The plain area in the south had the Main Hall for the lord and the houses for the retainers. The area was guarded by gates such as the Main Gate, and the water moats surrounding the area tripled.

The relief map around the castle

Part of the illustration of Akashi Castle in Harina Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

Castle was built by Rush work

The construction for the castle was rapidly completed within one year in 1619. This was due to the construction using moved buildings and waste materials from abandoned castles by the Law of One Castle per Province. Four three-story turrets were built in each corner of the Main Enclosure. These turrets were connected by the plaster walls which surrounded the enclosure. The large stone wall base for a Main Tower was also built, but the Main Tower itself was never built. The main portion of the castle including the Main Enclosure was covered by the high stone walls.

The two out of the four three-story turrets remain

After the completion of the castle, Tadazane was promoted to be the lord of Kokura Castle in 1632, getting more earnings than when he was at Akashi Castle. For about 50 years after that, several lords governed the castle before the Matsudaira Clan came to the castle in 1682. The clan governed the castle until the end of the Edo Period. No war happened during that time, but they often had to repair the buildings which were not new ones when the castle was first built.

To be continued in “Akashi Castle Part2”

59.Himeji Castle Part4

Castles are trying to survive into the future.

Features (West Enclosure)

The West Enclosure is located on Sagiyama mountain, the southwest of the Main Towers. It was lastly improved by Tadamasa Honda, when he was married to Senhime, the daughter of Ieyasu Tokugawa, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. The enclosure has large space and the Roofed Passage Turret where you can enter. You can also see equipment for battles such as machicolations as well as rooms for women who might have served Senhime. The view of the Main Towers from this enclosure looks very elegant.

The map around the castle

The Roofed Passage Turret on the West Enclosure
The Main Tower can be seen from the West Enclosure

My Impression

I think Himeji Castle looks much better with surrounded by natural terrain. For example, the Main Tower buildings are beautiful by themselves, but the buildings could be more beautiful with the mountain and the natural materials from which the towers were originally built.

The picture of only the Main Tower building
A beautiful scenery of the combination of the Main Tower and nature materials

In addition, when I visited the castle in 2013, I had a unique experience. The castle was undergoing repairs under The Heisei Great Repairs. The Large Main Tower was hidden behind construction covering. However, visitors could enter the construction site to see the tower close-up. I saw the roof top of the tower being painted with thick plaster among the roof tiles. The thickness of the plaster at the castle is 3cm, which is thicker than the past. This is to protect against the harsh weather. Even now, castles are trying to survive into the future.

The construction covering of the Heisei Great Repairs
The roof top of the tower that can be seen close-up

How to get There

If you want to visit by car: It takes about 15 minutes from the Hanada IC or Tohori Ramp on the Bantan renraku Road. The are several parking lots around the castle.
From Himeji Station: Take the Himeji Castle Loop Bus from the Himeji-ekimae stop in front of the north exit of the station and get off at the Himeji-jo Otemon-mae stop. Or it takes about 20 minutes on foot from the station.

Links and References

・Himeji Castle Official Website

That’s all.
Back to “Himeji Castle Part1”
Back to “Himeji Castle Part3”