One of the most popular tourist spots in Yamanashi Pref.
Later History
After the Meiji Restoration, people in Yamanashi Prefecture started to honor the activities of Shingen Takeda. In addition, it was recommended to worship gods of war like Shingen in shrines after Japan’s victory in the Russo‐Japanese War in 1905. As a result, Takeda Shrine was established on the ruins of Takeda Clan Hall in 1919. The Shrine and Shingen have now become symbols of the prefecture and famous attractions for tourism.
Takeda Shrine The front guard frame of Takeda Shrine
My Impression
After I visited the ruins of Takeda Clan Hall, I understood the Takeda Clan, including Shingen, made great efforts to reinforce their home base. In fact, I think the hall was a bit small for a great warlord like Shingen. It could be because Shingen thought that a good offense is the best defense. Shingen tried to broaden his territory all through his life. I also think that the style of a castle is often reflected by the character of its founder or owner.
The statue of Shingen Takeda in front of Kofu Station (licensed by そらみみ via Wikimedia Commons)The entrance of the West Enclosure of Takeda Clan Hall
How to get There
If you want to visit there by car: It is about 30 minutes away from Kofu-showa IC on Chuo Expressway. Takeda Shrine offers a parking lot near the shrine. By public transportation, it takes about 30 minutes on foot or take the Yamanashi-kotsu Bus bound for Takeda-jinja (Takeda Shrine) from Kofu Station. To get Kofu Station from Tokyo: Get the limited express Azusa or Kaiji at Shinjuku Station.
The legacies of Takeda and Tokugawa remain around the shrine.
Features
Center of Ruins becomes Takeda Shrine
Now, the center of the ruins of Takeda Clan Hall have become Takeda Shrine. If you visit there from JR Kofu Station, you have to go up through the gentle slope for about 2km. After that, you will see the entrance of Takeda Shrine with the front guard frame on the south of the shrine. In fact, the entrance is not original, and was built when the shrine was founded. You can also see the stone walls on both sides of the entrance, which were built by the Tokugawa Clan. The earthen walls and water moats surrounding the whole shrine were built by the Takeda Clan.
The entrance of Takeda ShrineThe stone walls built by the Tokugawa ClanThe earthen walls and water moat surrounding the shrine
The Main Shrine stands inside where the Main Hall of the Takeda Clan stood in the past. A circuit style garden was also built in front of the hall to host visitors. Next to the Main Shrine, there is the treasure hall where you can learn more about Takeda Clan Hall and see Takeda’s items such as a flag of Sun Tzu which shows Shingen’s motto and their armors.
The Main Shrine
The map around the castle
Eastern part developed as Park
There is another entrance on the east of the shrine called the Main Gate which was the original front gate. The stone walls around the gate are likely originally from Takeda’s period. In front of the Main Gate, there is the restored square stone mound to protect the gate. This is due to the achievement of the recent excavation, which was originally built by Tokugawa Clan. In fact, the ruin of the round Umadashi system by the Takeda Clan was found under the ruin of the square stone mound. That means Tokugawa replaced the Umadashi system with their stone mound. The excavation team found that another enclosure was also built on the east of the gate and the stone mound. It is thought that this enclosure was built probably by the Tokugawa Clan to protect the Main Gate as well. The entrance and earthen walls of the enclosure have been restored as a park area.
The Main Gate on the eastThe restored stone moundThe restored enclosure on the east of the Main Gate
West Enclosure with Takeda’s atmosphere
On the west of Takeda Shrine, the West Enclosure remains. You can walk across the earthen bridge from the shrine to the enclosure. You can also see the exit to the enclosure with the stone walls on both sides, which may be Shingen’s period in origin. The inside of the enclosure is empty, and the halls for Shingen’s family and relatives were there. The antique earthen walls and water moats surrounding the enclosure highlight the mood at that time. In addition, the front entrance of the enclosure on the south also shows one of Takeda’s defense systems called Masugata. It has a square space inside the entrance surrounded by earthen walls like brackets to protect the enclosure.
Going to the West Enclosure form the shrineThe stone walls at the exit to the West EnclosureThe West Enclosure with an antique appearanceThe southern entrance of the West EnclosureThe Masugata part surrounded by the earthen walls
Were the people the castle, the stone walls, or the moats?
Location and History
Nobutora Takeda built Castle as Governor’s Residence
Takeda Clan Hall, which is also called Tsutsujigasaki Hall, was located in what is now Kofu City, the Prefectural Capital of Yamanashi Prefecture. I would say the hall is the origin of Kofu City. The Governor of Kai Province (now Yamanashi Pref), Nobutora Takeda first built the hall in 1519. The hall was not only for the official residence of the governor, but also for the home base of the Takeda Clan, so it is classified as one of the castles in Japan.
The portrait of Nobutora Takeda, attributed to Nobukado Takeda, owned by Daisen-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Its location had mountains behind on the north, and an alluvial fan spread down on the south from around there. This meant Nobutora was able to overlook the castle town and the area around. He built his hall on a square enclosure which was nearly 200m on one side, surrounded by earthen walls and water moats. This was a typical style of the residences for governors in Japan at that time, emulating the style of Shogun’s palace in Kyoto. In addition, he built another castle on a mountain about 2km away from the hall on the north, called Yogaisan Castle, for emergency. For example, he and his family could escape from the hall to the mountain castle when a battle happened. Indeed, his son, Shingen Takeda was born at Yogaisan Castle during the battle between Nobutora and the Imagawa Clan in 1521. The network of these castle was defensive enough to maintain their safety during that time.
The location of the castle
Shingen Takeda’s saying related to Castle
Shingen, who was one of the greatest warlords in Japan, developed the hall as well, adding the West Enclosure for residences of his family and relatives on the west of the center enclosure in 1551. Apart from that, the Umadashi system, which refers to a round shaped sticking out defensive position, was built in front of the Main Gate on the east. It is also said that the hall for Shingen’s mother was built on the north. Each enclosure was surrounded by nearly 10m high earthen walls and over 5m deep water moats.
The imaginary drawing of Takeda Clan Hall (from the signboard at the site)
However, the hall seems to be misunderstood by many people. This comes from Shingen’s saying “The people are the castle, the stone walls, and the moats…” recorded in the military science book called Koyogunkan in the 17th Century of the Edo Period. The sentence means it is more important to win the people’s hearts than to build a strong castle, but many people later have been thinking it shows the reason why Shingen only had such a small castle in comparison to other castles for other warlords such as Nobunaga Oda and Kenshin Uesugi.
The portrait of Shingen Takeda, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Takeda Clan Hall itself is much smaller than Nobunaga’s Azuchi Castle or Kenshin’s Kasugayama Castle, but it is because their periods or situations were different. In the case of Shingen, his hall started from the governor’s residence. It was common for governors to live in such a hall at that time. The Takeda Clan added defense systems like the network of the castles and Umadashi to deal with their situation. It was enough for them.
The ruins of Takeda Clan Hall
Katsuyori Takeda moved to another
In 1582, Shingen’s son, Katsuyori Takeda decided to move his home base to a large new castle called Shinpu Castle, because the situation changed. Katsuyori was threatened by Nobunaga, so Katsuyori needed a stronger and larger castle than the Takeda Clan Hall which was once abandoned. Katsuyori was unfortunately beaten by Nobunaga before the hall was used by the Oda Clan and the Tokugawa Clan again. It was finally abandoned in 1590, when the Tokugawa Clan built Kofu Castle near the hall.
The Portrait of Katsuyori Takeda, owned by Koyasan Jimyoin (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
