53.Nijo Castle Part1

Nijo Castle is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Kyoto, and a World Heritage Site, where many tourists overseas visit. The castle was built by Ieyasu Tokugawa who was the last ruler and the first Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate. However, do you know about other Nijo Castles which other rulers and Shoguns had owned before Ieyasu? The current Nijo Castle, which only remains, is the final version of Nijo Castle including the others.

Location and History

Nijo Castle is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Kyoto, and a World Heritage Site, where many tourists overseas visit. The castle was built by Ieyasu Tokugawa who was the last ruler and the first Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate. However, did you know about other Nijo Castles which other rulers and Shoguns had owned before Ieyasu? The current Nijo Castle, which is the only remaining castle, is the final version of Nijo Castles including the others. That’s because historians call the castles which the rulers and the Shoguns built in the center of Kyoto, the series of Nijo Castles. (Nijo Castle was originally the name for Ieyasu’s one at that time.)

The current Nijo Castle

Shoguns and Rulers of Nijo Castles

The first Nijo Castle was built by Yoshiteru Ashikaga, the 13th Shogun of the Ashikaga Shogunate. His ancestors had lived in a residence called “The Flower Palace” but it was weak defensively. When Yoshiteru became the Shogun, he couldn’t stay long even in Kyoto because of the conflicts against his retainers. In 1558, he eventually lived in Kyoto by making peace with Nagayoshi Miyoshi who was the most influential retainer, called “the first ruler”. Yoshiteru launched the building of his new palace, which was actually a castle with doubled moats and stone walls. Living in a simple palace was very dangerous even for a Shogun to survive at that time. Yoshiteru’s government was stable for a while. However, the situation got worse after Nagayoshi, whom Yoshihide relied on, died in 1564. Some of the Miyoshi Party suddenly attacked Yoshihide’s castle the following year. Yoshiteru, who was said to be a master swordman, fought bravely against his enemies, but was eventually killed by them.

The portrait of Yoshiteru Ashikaga, owned by National Museum of Japanese History  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
“The Flower Palace” from “The views in and around Kyoto (Uesugi version)”  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The location of Yoshiteru’s Nijo Castle, marked by the red box, the current Nijo Castle is surrounded by the doble moats (Google Map)

The owner of the second Nijo Castle was Yoshiaki Ashikaga, the last shogun of the Ashikaga Shogunate. His Nijo Castle had already been known as “The old Nijo Castle”. He decided to build the castle at the same place as Yoshiteru’s one after he came to Kyoto with Nobunaga Oda and became the shogun in 1568. Many may think this castle was given by Nobunaga, but in fact, it was that Nobunaga was mainly in charge of the civil construction of the castle before many buildings and garden items were moved from others. Nobunaga instructed the construction all by himself, which resulted in nearly 8m high stone walls completed in only less than 3 months. Another episode about it is that Nobunaga collected stone materials, including stone buddha status, for the walls by force. The castle is also famous for having the first Tenshu (which means Main Tower) building on record, which provided a historical epoch. The building seemed to look like a three-level turret. Yoshiaki and Nobunaga eventually fought each other; Yoshiaki fortified his castle even more to fight against Nobunaga. However, Yoshiaki escaped from his Nijo Castle to another castle and surrendered to Nobunaga. Nobunaga ordered his retainers to destroy the Nijo Castle.

The seated statue of Yoshiaki Ashikaga, owned by Tojiin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The location of Yoshiaki’s Nijo Castle, marked by the blue box, the current Nijo Castle is surrounded by the doble moats (Google Map)
Some of the stone walls of Yoshiaki’s Nijo Castle, unearthed and moved to Kyoto Imperial Park

The owner of the next Nijo Castle was Nobunaga, which is still not popular.
He had stayed in temples before that while being in Kyoto for a long time. He decided to build his own castle in Kyoto to stay in, in 1576, which is now called another “Nijo Castle”. The castle had buildings like a palace including a room for the emperor’s visit. The others about the castle were unclear. However, a question about its size is unclear. In fact, experts later confirmed that Nobunaga’s Nijo Castle was in fact smaller than Yoshiteru’s and Yoshiaki’s Nijo Castle. Moreover, Nobunaga gave the castle to the current prince after only two years. He resumed his stay in temples, including Honnoji where he would be easily killed by Mitsuhide Akechi in 1582. His son, Nobutada stayed in another temple with only a few retainers, heard about the incident, and decided to move to Nobunaga’s former Castle. He battled against Mitsuhide’s troops, but was eventually forced to commit Harakiri, while the castle being burned down.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The location of Nobunaga’s Nijo Castle, marked by the green box, the current Nijo Castle is surrounded by the doble moats (Google Map)
The portrait of Nobutada Oda, owned by Sokenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ieyasu Tokugawa of Nijo Castle

Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the successor of Nobunaga, built Jurakudai Castle as his residence in Kyoto in 1587. The castle was located in the north of Nijo and was much larger than all three Nijo Castles earlier on. He invited the emperor to his castle, which meant its functions were similar to the three other Nijo Castles. However, he had built Myokenji Castle at Nijo to live in before Jurakudai Castle. Myokenji Castle was said to have its Main Tower while its other points are unclear. If more information would have been recovered, the castle would have been called another Nijo Castle.

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
“The folding screens of Jurakudai Castle”, owned by Mitsui Memorial Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The location of Hideyoshi’s Myokenji Castle, marked by the brown box, the current Nijo Castle is surrounded by the doble moats (Google Map)

Ieyasu Tokugawa, who won the battle of Sekigahara in 1600, became the last ruler. He started to build his castle in Kyoto the following year, which would be the current Nijo Castle. The castle was completed in 1603, with its Main Tower added three years later by moving it from Yamato-Koriyama Castle. However, the range of it was different from the current one, which was over half the size of it, with only a single square. That’s why the castle at that time was called, Keicho Nijo Castle (Keicho was the name of the Emperor’s Era at that time).

The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, ownd by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The range of the Keicho Nijo Castle, marked by the purple box, the current Nijo Castle is surrounded by the doble moats (Google Map)
“The views in and around Kyoto” including the Keicho Nijo Castle, owned by Metropolitan Museum of Art (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ieyasu used his Nijo Castle to stay in and hold important ceremonies in Kyoto. For example, he invited the envoys from the emperor to the castle where a party was held after he became the first Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate. His successor, Hidetada Tokugawa also used the castle in the same way. Ieyasu met his rival, Hideyori Toyotomi at the castle in 1611. Some say Ieyasu decided to destroy the Toyotomi Clan before they become a big threat to the Tokugawa Clan. The castle was eventually used as Ieyasu’s headquarters when he went to the battle of Osaka Castle in 1614. As a result, Ieyasu held patties at Nijo Castle again after his victory in 1615. Meanwhile, he issued the Acts Governing the Imperial Court and Nobility to control them at the same place in the same year. That meant the castle was an iconic place for the government.

The portrait of Hideyori Toyotomi, owned by Yogenin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The summer campaign of the siege of Osaka folding screens, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Hidetada and Iemitsu Tokugawa of Nijo Castle

After Ieyasu died in 1616, his son, Hidetada and grandson, Iemitsu still had many things to do. One of them was to form a good relationship with the Imperial family. Hidetada married his daughter, Masako to emperor Gomizuo in 1620. He became the emperor’s father-in-law. The final practice for his purpose would be to invite the emperor to Nijo Castle like Hideyoshi had used to do in Jurakudai Castle. Hidetada tried to have a special event to surpass that of the previous ruler.

The portrait of Hidetada Tokugawa, owned by Saifuku-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Iemitsu Tokugawa, owned by Kinzanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of the emperor Gomizuo, attributed to Korin Ogata, owned by Imperial Household Archives (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Masako Tokugawa, owned by Kounji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

This event would be held in 1626 during the Kanei Era after Nijo Castle was fully renovated. Therefore, the castle would be called Kanei Nijo Castle as what we see it now. The renovation included the land of the castle being extended to the west. It resulted in the land looking like two overlapped squares. The square on the west became the main enclosure for Hidetada’s main hall while the right one became the second enclosure for Iemitsu’s main hall which is the remaining one. The remaining gorgeous Kara-mon gate in front of it was built at the same time. The main enclosure also had the new main tower being moved from Fushimi Castle. The palace for the emperor’s visit was built in the second enclosure. The front gate of the castle had had two levels but was rebuilt to a single-level gate. This was because someone might have looked down on the emperor from the second floor.

The aerial photo of the current Nijo Castle (Google Map)
The remaining main hall of the second enclosure
The remaining Kara-mon Gate
The rebuilt front gate for the emperor’s visit, quoted from the website of Chiba Prefectural Central Museum
The current front gate being changed to a two-level gate after the visit

The event, called “Kanei Royal Visit”, was held for 5 days from the 5th of September (according to the lunar calendar), in 1626. The parade of about 9,000 people, including the emperor and his wife, Masako, went from the imperial palace to the castle. During the visit, lots of ceremonies were held. The most interesting one for us may be that the emperor climbed the main tower twice. There was the corridor bridge with roof overhead, covering the moat between the main and second enclosures. That meant the emperor was able to go the tower from his palace in the castle without having to go out. His first visit to the tower was on the 3rd day, but the view from the top was not good because of the bad weather. He went there again on the last day just before returning to his home. The royal visit was recorded on many sources, which would make people remember it for a long time. This event also symbolized the arrival of peace. After that, the 3rd shogun, Iemitsu went to Kyoto and Nijo Castle in 1634, which was his last visit there. Since then, the castle has been dormant for over 200 years when no shoguns went to Kyoto.

Part of “the Screens of the Royal Visit to Nijo Castle”, exhibited by Kyoto National Museum
The current bridge between the main and second enclosures, which had the corridor with roof overhead on it in the past

Iemochi and Yoshinobu Tokugawa of Nijo Castle

During the first 200 years, Nijo Castle was devastated. For example, the main hall and main tower of the main enclosure were burned down by accidental fires. The main hall of the second enclosure deteriorated. However, the castle got back to the political scenes at the end of the Edo Period. This was because the 14th shogun, Iemochi Tokugawa went to Kyoto for the first time as a shogun in 229 years, after he had been married to Kazunomiya, the emperor’s daughter. The imperial court was getting more powerful, backed up by some influential domains which later resulted in the Meiji Restoration. The shogun needed to deal with such a situation by himself. The shogunate tried to resume Nijo Castle for Iemochi’s stay. However, it was not enough due to the shortage of their budget. As a result, Iemochi mainly used the restored main hall of the second enclosure. He also used Osaka Castle to battle against the Choshu Domain, where he unfortunately died in 1866 due to illness.

The portrait of Iemochi Tokugawa, owned by he Tokugawa Memorial Foundation (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Iemochi’s successor, Yoshinobu Tokugawa had stayed long in Kyoto to back up Iemochi. However, he didn’t use Nijo Castle. He said the reason was that he couldn’t move freely when he stayed there under bureaucratic official rules. He continued to stay in his retainer’s residence even after he became the last shogun. He finally moved to the castle just one month before the famous Returning of the Power to the Emperor in October (according to the lunar calendar), in 1867. He announced it in the main hall of the second enclosure. The purpose of it was that after he resigned, he assumed he would be given another position to continue working for the imperial court while avoiding attacks from the influential domains. However, the domains refused Yoshinobu’s plan by issuing the Decree for the Restoration of Imperial Rule and asking Yoshinobu to return all his ranks and territories. His retainers got very angry, but it was a provocation from the domains. Yoshinobu eventually decided to escape from Nijo Castle to Osaka Castle with his retainers to avoid conflicts.

Yoshinobu Tokugawa when he was the shogun  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The picture of the announcement of Returning the Power to the Emperor, owned by the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

After that, Nijo Castle belonged to the imperial court. On 3rd February (according to the lunar calendar), in 1868, the emperor Meiji went to the castle and ordered to abolish the shogunate. The castle was used as an iconic place for the government until the end.

The picture of the visit of the emperor Meiji to Nijo Castle, owned by the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Nijo Castle Part2”

187.Fukue Castle Part2

If you want to visit Fukue Island where Fukue Castle Ruins are located, you need to take a ship or a plane. The ruins are closer to Fukue Port than Fukue Airport, which only about 300m away from the port. If you walk from the port to the ruins in the west, you will see the eastern stone walls and the moats in the front. However, the moats had originally been a seashore, and were reclaimed around. That’s why the moats are still filled with the sea water which is controlled by the tide

Features

Walking around Front of Castle

If you want to visit Fukue Island where Fukue Castle Ruins are located, you wil need to take a ship or a plane. The ruins are closer to Fukue Port than Fukue Airport, which is only about 300m away from the port. If you walk from the port to the ruins in the west, you will see the eastern stone walls and the moats in the front. However, the moats had originally been the frontline of the seashore, and where the new artificial land is currently located. That’s why the moats are still filled with the sea water which is controlled by the tide.

Fukue Port
The aerial photo around the castle (Google Map)
The stone walls at the eastern side of the castle

The stone walls are part of the second enclosure, which faced the sea as the front line of the castle. Its corner on the left is one of the canon ruins. The stone walls were basically piled using basalt natural stones which had been produced by Onidake Mountain of the island. Meanwhile, the corners of the stone walls were piled using precisely processed stones. This was because the corners mainly had to support the weight of the walls. If you walk to the north along the moats, you will also see the water gate which was used for ships.

The stone walls of the battery ruins
A part being piled using basalt natural stones
A corner being piled using precisely processed stones
The water gate

Over the moats, you will eventually arrive at the ruins of the main gate which is the entrance of the northern enclosure. The gate also faced the sea in the front.
The stone walls of the gate were piled up using precisely processed stones, as it was also the front gate. It had a turret building on it as well. The enclosure now has the Goto Kanko Historical Museum which looks like a Main Tower, where you can learn the history and culture of Goto Islands.

The ruins of the main gate
The Goto Kanko History Museum

Going to the Back of Castle

If you go to the back of the castle in the west, from the northern enclosure, you will see the main enclosure and the inner moat. The main enclosure is now used as a high school. That’s why visitors can only look around it. The stone walls of the enclosure have something like a gap, which was actually one of the entrances where the bridge over the moat used to be. If you go further, you need to turn to the right rear and will walk along the long stone walls of the northern enclosure. There is also one of the canon base ruins nearby.

The stone walls of the main enclosure and the inner moat
The trace of the entrance
The stone walls of the northern enclosure
The cannon base ruins seen from the city area

It would be better to exit Fukue Culture Hall, which uses the former castle’s land, in order to see the castle site more. If you go on the city area to the west, you will see the castle’s stone walls and the moat in front of them again. In fact, the moat is original, and does not originate from the sea, and is in the westernmost part of the castle. The stone bridge over the moat, and gate behind are original as well, which have been maintained for a long time. The gate was used as the back gate of the castle. The inside is the remaining retreat of the founder of the castle, Moriakira Goto. This site is open to the public, called “Goto Garden”. However, it sometimes has irregular holidays which may confuse visitors. Therefore, I recommend calling the management office in advance to confirm its business days, if you really want to see it.

The entrance of the Fukue Culture Hall
The western side of the castle still has its original moat, bridge and gate
The back gate of the castle
The entrance of Goto Garden, it was closed when I visited

Overall, the stone walls remain well even though most of the sea area around the castle has been reclaimed. The other remaining castle’s gate is used as the entrance of the high school.

The stone walls of the southern side of the castle, the road on the left was the sea in the past
The other remaining gate where high school students pass every weekday

Related Historical Sites

One of the related sites to Fukue Castle is Fukue Samurai Residence Street, which was the residential area of middle-class warriors of the Fukue Domain. It consists of the remaining gates and walls for the residences, which are about 400m long. The walls resemble those of Fukue Castle, but some points are different. There are rough stones lazily piled up, called “kobore-ishi” (meaning “spilling stones”), on the walls. There are also semi-circular stones, called “waki-ishi” (meaning “side stones”), at the edges of the walls. The latter stones keep the former stones on the walls. This is a unique system for the whole country. One theory suggests that invaders over the walls would inform the host by spilling the stones. The other theory says that the host would counterattack the invaders by throwing the stones.

Fukue Samurai Residence Street
The side stones and the spilling stones

Most of the area behind the gates and walls has become modern residences. However, the street still looks like what it was, with the stone pavements.

There seems to be a park behind the gate
There seems to be an apartment house behind the gate
This street has stone pavement which makes it old-fashioned

Another related site is Jotobana Ruins near Fukue Port. It was originally built as a lighthouse and the banks to protect the castle construction site from the big waves. Its only remaining item is the lighthouse, so you need to access it by crossing the modern pier. It was said that the site was built by the same craftsman group as those for the stone walls of the castle. In addition, originally, this structure was built alongside the castle, but in fact it was built even before the start of the castle construction. That meant the shogunate might have given an unofficial permission to the castle’s lord back then.

The Jotobana Ruins
You can access the ruins through the pier

If you get close to the stone walls of the lighthouse ruins, you will see they look just like those of the castle. Such a historical site would make us interested in the history of the castle more and more.

The steps to the lighthouse ruins

Is this Extra Edition?

If you walk around the Fukue area, you will often see Onidake Mountain, a symbolic mountain of Fukue Island.

Onidake Mountain, seen from the Jotobana Ruins

The mountain is 315m above sea level. It is classified as a volcano mountain but there have been no records of its eruptions in human history. Before that, it erupted and eventually made lava coast in the southeastern part of the island. The eruption made the top of the mountain look like a mortar, academically called a scoria hill. People burn off a field of the mountain every several years; the mountain is covered with green grass.

Top of the mountain, seen from the mid slope
The shape of the mountain with green grass is beautiful
Around the top of the mountain

In fact, the mountain is related to the Fukue Domain and Fukue Castle. It was one of the 11 lookout posts the domain built on the islands, in order to monitor foreign ships. You will realize it is a good place for the lookout where you can look over the sea and the castle site.

A view of the Fukue city area including Fukue Castle from the top
A view of the opposite side of the castle from the top

There is also the lava coast the mountain created at the opposite side. The coast provided the natural stones to the castle to build its stone walls. The castle’s history comes with the natural environment of the island.

The lava coast seen from the top

My Impression

I honestly say that I thought it would be enough to have a day trip just to visit Fukue Castle Ruins. That’s why I originally bought a return ticket using ships to and from Nagasaki Port in one day. However, when I got there, I got interested in many other things. As a result, I unfortunately didn’t have enough time to see everything including the lava coast and a church. Therefore, I recommend staying overnight if you visit Fukue Island.

I had to return to Nanasaki in no time at all

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Fukue Castle Part1”

187.Fukue Castle Part1

Fukue Castle was located in Fukue Island, which is the largest one of Goto Islands. It was built by the Goto Clan, the lord family of the Fukue Domain during the Edo Period. Goto Islands are at the westmost part of the Kushu Region. That’s why they have a long history including close relationships with foreign countries through sea transportation. However, the castle is one of the latest castles in Japan because of the special conditions and matters of the islands.

Location and History

Fukue Castle was located in Fukue Island, which is the largest one of Goto Islands. It was built by the Goto Clan, the lord family of the Fukue Domain during the Edo Period. Goto Islands are at the westernmost part of the Kushu Region. That’s why they have a long history including close relationships with foreign countries through sea transportation. However, the castle is one of the youngest castles in Japan because of the special conditions and matters of the islands.

The location of the castle

Goto Islands with Matsura Party, Kaizoku warriors, and Wako pirates

In the ancient times, Goto Islands were on the southern route for Japanese missions to the Tang dynasty of China. For example, a famous priest, Kukai, left the islands to the dynasty by ship. In the Middle Ages, warriors, called Matsura Party, invaded the islands in order to govern it. Though their leader, the Matsura Clan stayed in Hirado of the main Kyushu Island, other members like the Uku and Aokata Clans moved to Goto Islands. Apart from the jobs for ruling their lands, they usually acted as sea guards and navies. They also pirated cargos from the ships which meant they didn’t have to pay to enter certain areas or were wrecked. So, they were sometimes called Kaizoku, which directly means ‘pirates’.

The restored Kobayabune boat, which is an example of navies’ or Kaizoku’s boats, exhibited by Murakami KAIZOKU Museum

Another leading group at that time were Wako pirates, which used Goto Islands as a base. They were classified in the former Wako during the Muromachi Period and the later one during the Sengoku Period. The latter was, in fact, ruled by Chinese people, who were like armed merchants. It was said that some Japanese people from the Matsura Party might have joined the Wako pirates. The lords of the party tried to build a strong connection with those of the pirates to improve their power.

A picture of the Wako attack (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Rule of Goto Clan as Fukue Domain

In the 14th Century during the Muromachi Period, one of the Matsura Party, the Uku Clan managed to unify Goto Islands. As a result, the clan moved its home from Uku Island to Fukue Island, the largest one in the islands. Morisada Uku, who was the lord of the clan in the middle of the 16th Century tried to increase trading by building Egawa Castle near the estuary of Fukue River. He met a Chinese big shot from the Wako Pirates, called Wang Zhi, in the process. Morisada allowed Wang Zhi to live and trade in Fukue, by building a Chinatown near the castle. Some historical items, such as Minjin-do (a mausoleum) and Rokkaku Well, can be seen in the town ruins. Goto Islands became a trading center following Hirado.

The portrait of Wang Zhi, exhibited by Minjin-do Mausoleum
The imaginary image of the Chinatown, exhibited by Minjin-do Mausoleum
The Minjin-do Mausoleum
The Rokkaku Well

The Uku Clan also adapted to its new environment. When Christianity came to Goto Islands, Morisada’s son, Sumisada became a Christian. Sumisada’s grandson, Sumiharu changed his family name from Uku to Goto, as the representative of the islands, during the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi. Sumiharu’s successor, Harumasa Goto survived even when Ieyasu Tokugawa became the last ruler. Harumasa was the first lord of the Fukue Domain which governed the area all through the Edo Period. The second lord, Moritoshi Goto forced all the warriors of the domain to live in Fukue town to rule over them completely. Fukue Samurai Residence Street is the ruins for the middle-class warriors’ residential area.

Fukue Samurai Residence Street

However, the situation of the domain was not stable. Even though the income of the domain had been good because of the prosperous fishing industry, both of them declined rapidly. Therefore, the domain needed to make counterplans. Their first plan was to tax each person in the domain, It seemed unusual but the second counterplan was more unorthodox. Their second plan was to force some girls to serve high-class warriors like slaves for three years! This was obviously a tribble law even during the Edo Period, which lasted until the end of the period. On the other hand, another plan might have unknowingly brought a good thing to Goto Islands. Fukue Domain asked Omura Domain in the main island of Kyushu to move farmers to Goto Islands. They agreed with each other, and then, thousands of farmers went to the islands. In fact, many of the farmers were underground-Christians. Being Christian was prohibited at that time, but Fukue Domain accepted them carelessly without checking their background because they wanted to increase their income. As a result, Christianity was secretly worshiped by the farmers, which would lead to some Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region (as a World Heritage) in Goto Islands.

Kashiragashima Church in Kashiragashima Island of Goto Islands (licensed by Indiana jo via Wikimedia Commons)

As for the castle’s matter, Egawa Castle was eventually burned down by accident in 1614. Fukue Domain tried to build another one, however, it was not allowed by the shogunate. This was because the domain was too small for having a castle. The shogunate controlled all the domains by classifying them and permitting what they could do. Instead, Fukue Domain built Ishida Encampment at a seashore where Fukue Castle would later be built.

The ruins of Egawa Castle, where only a monument stands beside the hotel

Road to Fukue Castle

Fukue Domain was also not allowed to trade with foreign countries because it was allowed to do so with Netherlands and China. The only trading that was allowed was in Nagasaki Port. Furthermore, the domain was ordered by the shogunate to monitor the foreign trading ships on route to Nagasaki near Goto Islands. The domain built 11 lookout posts on the islands in order to monitor foreign ships. That made the domain become more careful of foreign affairs. The domain sent some officers to Nagasaki to collect foreign information. As time passed, unidentified Western ships often appeared in the sea around Japan. The domain felt a sense of crisis and applied the first permission to build a castle in 1806 but was rejected in the end.

Dejima Island in Nagasaki Port, which was used for the trading with the foreign countries (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Meanwhile, there were big incidents at Nagasaki. In 1808, a British warship, called Phaeton, rushed towards Nagasaki, to catch some ships of Netherlands under a state of war between the countries. Then, in 1844, a Dutch warship, called Palembang, visited Nagasaki with a diplomatic massage by the Dutch king, which encourage Japan to open the country. This information was basically confidential, but Fukue Domain got it through the officers at Nagasaki.

The British warship, Phaeton (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Dutch warship, Palembang (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Therefore, it asked the shogunate to allow them to build the castle again and again. Eventually, they were allowed to do it in 1849, which was the same year as that of Matsumae Castle in Hokkaido was built.

Matsumae Castle

Construction of Castle

Fukue Domain lauched the construction of Fukue Castle at the same site as its encampment right away. However, it took a very long time as long as 15 years. This was because of the lack of the budget and its location near the estuary. There is the ruins of a lighthouse called Jotobana near Fukue Port. it was originally built as banks to protect the construction site from the big waves. The castle was eventually completed in 1863. It was one of the youngest castles in Japan and unique one devoted to guarding the sea.

The Jotobana Ruins

For these reasons, it had several distinct features. First, the castle faced Eastern China Sea in the east and surrounded by it in the east, north, and south directions. The sea could be a natural moat for the castle too, but it made enemy ships attack that area more easily. Therefore, the stone walls at the eastern side were very thick. A water gate was also built to sail the castle’s ships. Secondly, the castle had several enclosures such as the Main, Second and Northern Enclosures like other castles. However, the corners had cannon bases, not turrets which Japanese castles used to have. The residence and garden for the lord were built in the western part of the castle, which was the farthest from the sea, which was also the safest area of the castle. Finally, the stone walls of the castle used many natural stones which the island produced. The stones were piled in a method called Nozura-zumi by a special stone craftsman group called Ano-shu.

The illustration of Fukue Castle, quoted from the board of education of Nagasaki Prefecture
The stone walls at the eastern side of the castle
The stone walls which were piled in the Nozura-zumi method

Though the castle was built after the great efforts after a long time, it was abandoned in 1872 after the Meiji Restoration when it was only 9 years old.

The ruins of Fukue Castle

To be continued in “Fukue Castle Part2”