102.Kaminokuni-Katsuyama Date Part2

A mountain castle with a medieval atmosphere

Features

Ruins can be accessible either from Seaside or Mountain side

Today, the ruins of Kaminokuni-Katsuyama Date have been well developed by Kaminokuni Town. The ruins spread from 70 to 110m high on the hill. You can access the ruins either on the Main Route near the seaside or on the Back Route near Iouzan Mountain which is 159m high.

The aerial photo around the castle

The Main Route

If you drive to the ruins, it may be better to park and visit the Katsuyama Castle Guidance Facility below the top of the mountain before going to the ruins. You can learn about the history and the findings of the hall. The mountain top has a good view of the sea and has the Iouzan Shrine as well which worships Nobuhiro Takeda, the founder of the hall. The top was thought to be used as the final part in case of an emergency.

The Katsuyama Castle Guidance Facility
The interior of the guidance facility
The top of Iouzan Mountain seen from the parking lot
A view from the top
The Iouzan Shrine gateway on the top

Going to Back Route and Back Gate from Mountain

From the facility, you can walk to the Back Gate of the hall ruins passing the Iouzan Tombs which have over 600 burial mounds. Many of them are for Buddhists which are related to the mainland Japanese, but some of them are for the Ainu people. This is one of the reasons that both people lived together in the hall. Nobuhiro Takeda is thought to be buried somewhere around there.

The Iouzan Tombs
The replica of an excavated Ainnu tomb, exhibited by the Katsuyama Castle Guidance Facility

The trail will bring you to the Back Gate Ruins with a dry moat in front of them. You can go across the moat over the restored bridge and you will see some restored wooden fences around the ruins. Inside the gate is the highest point of the ruins, which had the Tategami-Hachimangu Shrine as the guardian god of the hall. The shine remained even after the hall was abandoned. The lords of the Matsumae Domain visited it to worship for their ancestors during the Edo Period. The shrine was finally moved to another location in 1876 of the Meiji Era.

The Back Gate Ruins
The dry moat and the restored Back Bridge
The ruins of Tategami-Hachimangu Shrine
Around the shrine ruins

Center of Hall Ruins

The 3.6m wide central passage goes through the ruins. Next comes the main portion of the hall, a long and wide area gently going down to the Main Gate Ruins.

The center of the hall ruins
The imaginary drawing of the central passage with a turret gate on it, from the signboard at the site

There are no buildings, but lots of flat exhibits of what buildings were built, according to the excavation achievements. The exhibits show the Main Hall, the chief retainer’s house, a public well, a blacksmith‘s workshop, a stable, warehouses, residential houses, and so on.

The imaginary drawing of buildings of the hall, from the signboard at the site, adding the English letters
The ruins of the Main Hall
The interior model of the Main Hall, exhibited by the Katsuyama Castle Guidance Facility
The ruins of the blacksmith‘s workshop
The interior model of the workshop, exhibited by the Katsuyama Castle Guidance Facility
The ruins of the public well
The miniature model of the public well, exhibited by the Katsuyama Castle Guidance Facility

The excavation team also found about 100 thousand relics such as weapons, religious equipment, trading goods, tools, hunting and fishing items as well as household items including accessories. That means people lived their daily life there. In particular, some of the relics came from the Ainu people, such as their own penknives and poisoned arrows for hunting. This could be another evidence that the mainland and Ainu people lived together. You can also enjoy a good view of the Japan Sea and the seaside area.

The excavated lacquerware bowls, which were probably brought to the site by trading, exhibited by the Katsuyama Castle Guidance Facility
The excavated fishing items of Ainu (below) and a replica of an Ainu harpoon, exhibited by the Katsuyama Castle Guidance Facility
The hall ruins with a view of the area below

To be continued in “Kaminokuni-Katsuyama Date Part3”
Back to “Kaminokuni-Katsuyama Date Part1”

102.Kaminokuni-Katsuyama Date Part1

The Mountain Castle & The Ainu People

Location and History

Japanese people get active in Hokkaido where Ainu people live

Kaminokuni-Katsuyama Date was a hall which was built in the Middle Ages in the western part of Oshima Peninsula of Hokkaido. At that time, the island was called Ezo, where the Ainu people lived. They spoke a different language and had a different way of life from the Japanese people that lived on the mainland. They earned a living by hunting, fishing and trading, unlike the mainland Japanese people, who farmed.

The location of the castle

The painting of Ainu men, attributed to Isabella Lucy Bird, in the 19th Century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

In the late 14th Century, some Japanese people were active in the Oshima Peninsula, in particular the southern edge of Hokkaido. The leaders started to build several halls for living and trading alongside this peninsula. The halls were called the Dounan (southern region) 12 Halls, such as Shinori Tate in the eastern part of the peninsula which was called “Shimonokuni” or the lower province. While the western part was referred to as “Kaminokuni” or the upper province.

The ruins of Shinori Tate

Nobuhiro Takeda repels Ainu Rebellion

The Ando Clan, which led the Japanese people in Ezo, also tried to rule the island aggressively. Because of this, it caused an uprising of the Ainu people, who was led by their leader Koshamain in 1456. The angry Ainu people managed to capture 10 of the 12 Dounan Halls, including Shinori Tate. One of the two surviving halls was Hanazawa Tate located in the upper province, which was owned and controlled by The Kakizaki Clan, who was affiliated with the Ando Clan. They were obviously at a disadvantage however, because the rebellion was ultimately crushed when Koshamain was shot with an arrow by Nobuhiro Takeda, a guest commander of The Kakizaki Clan.

The portrait of Nobuhiro Takeda (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Nobhuhiro is originally from Wakasa province, which at that time was located in the central region of the mainland of Japan, which did a lot of trading with Ezo, via the Sea of Japan. For example, potteries like Echizen ware that were made in the surrounding areas were often used in Ezo. The province sold kelp, processed from Ezo. Nobuhiro might have been a vagrant on this well-known route. Therefore, he managed to only become the adopted son of The Kakizaki Clan, but also the chosen leader of the Japanese people in Ezo Island.

A jar of Echizen ware in the Middle Ages, owned by Hakone Museum of Art (licensed by Daderot via Wikimedia Commons)

Nobuhiro builts Kaminokuni-Katsuyama-Date

Nobuhiro would eventually build a new hall near Hanazawa Tate, on a hill located below Iouzan Mountain, which is now known as Kaminoyama-Katsuyama Date, in 1470. The word “Date” means “hall”, however because of its size, it looked more like a mountain castle or a sort of medieval city on the mountain. Nobuhiro probably built his stronger hall based on his experience because most of his previous halls ended up being captured. The hill of the hall had deep valleys on both sides, and dry moats in both the front and the back. There were lots of houses on the hill as well, which were surrounded by fences. A famous region was the Oma Port, located below the hill, so the lord of the hall managed to control the trading that happened at the coast of this region.

The miniature model of Kaminokuni-Katsuyama-Date, exhibited by the Katsuyama Castle Guidance Facility

Even after the completion of the new hall, some Ainu people would sometimes rebel and attack the hall. The Kakizaki Clan under the command of Nobuhiro, managed to repel the Ainu attacks, mainly because of the robust construction of the hall, and by the use of traps. The Kakizaki Clan were very cunning, as they managed to convince the Ainu people to join them in a peace treaty. After filling up on liquor, the Ainu people were too intoxicated to fight back, and were ultimately murdered during the party. Ainu people never doubted the Kakizaki’s intentions. On the other hand, both Japanese and Ainu people somehow managed to live in harmony together, in the medieval city. You can even find burial sites where both Japanese people and Ainu people were buried in. This led to a long and complex relationship between the Japanese people and the Ainu people.

The defense system of the front of Kaminokuni-Katsuyama-Date, from the miniature model above
burial mounds of Ainu people around the hall

The Kakizaki Clan eventually moved their home base to Matsumae, the southern edge of the peninsula because it was more convenient location for trading. That lead to the launch of both the Matsumae Domain, as well as Matsumae Castle during the Edo Period. Soon after that, the clan renamed themselves The Matsumae Clan. Eventually, Kaminokuni-Katsuyama Date would be abandoned during early stages of the Edo Period.

Matsumae Castle

To be continued in “Kaminokuni-Katsuyama-Date Part2”

3.Matsumae Castle Part3

Will the Main Tower be rebuilt or repaired?

Features

Northern and Western parts of Castle

If you have time, you should consider walking around the other sides of the castle ruins. The temple district is beside the Outer Moat Ruins at the northern side of the castle. It had originally been built for the defense of this side when the site had only the hall. However, this side eventually became the weakest point compared with the other sides of the castle. That’s why the former Shogunate Army was able to attack it. You can now enjoy a relaxing walk there seeing some of the temple buildings which were designated as Important Cultural Properties.

The map around the castle

The Outer Moat Ruins at the northern side of the castle
The main gate of Hogenji Temple as an Important Cultural Property
Ryuunin Temple as an Important Cultural Property

The western side is a promenade on the bottom of the former Outer Moat. You can walk on it by looking up at the Main Enclosure. This side is supposed to be more defensive than the northern side.

The promenade on the bottom of the former Outer Moat
You can see how tall the Main Enclosure is
Looking up at the Main Enclosure

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Matsumae Castle was abandoned and only the Main Tower and the gate in the Main Enclosure remained as the ruins. However, the tower was unfortunately burned down by an accidental fire in 1949. It was externally restored in 1961, but since it’s been 60 years, its concrete building looks old. So, Matsumae Town is considering whether the tower should be rebuilt in the original way or repaired including safety measures such anti-earthquake systems. In addition, the castle ruins have been designated as a National Historic Site since 1935.

The Main Tower of Matsumae Castle before being burned down, taken in 1935  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The restored Main Tower
The Main Tower building looks aging when you see its interior

My Impression

I think Matsumae Castle is a very unique one which has a mix of the traditional Japanese style and a newer advanced style which matches the current situation. As a result, it may have been not enough as the castle was defeated twice. However, it must also be preserved as a record of history. In my opinion, the best season for visiting it should be spring with cherry blossoms, but be aware that there will be a huge crowd as well. Cherry Blossom season is a popular time for locals as well as tourists, so expect more people than usual.

The Man Enclosure Gate in the front and the Main Tower in the back
The Man Enclosure Gate on the left and the Main Tower on the right
hydrangea blooming is also good

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the castle ruins because there are only a few buses available.
It is about a 2-hour drive away from Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station or the center of Hakodate City. From Hakodate Airport, it takes about 2.5 hours to get there. There is a parking lot in the castle ruins. It may be a good idea to rent a car at the station or the airport.
To get to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokkaido Shinkansen super express at Tokyo Station.

That’s all. Thank you.
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