19.Kawagoe Castle Part1

Kawagoe Castle was located in modern day Kawagoe City of Saitama Prefecture at the central part of the Kanto Region. Its former castle town is known as the street with many Kura storehouses and named as a little Edo, which attracts many tourists. The castle and town were developed with a deep relationship with Edo City (the current Tokyo), the shogun’s capital.

Location and History

Kawagoe Castle was located in modern day Kawagoe City of Saitama Prefecture at the central part of the Kanto Region. The city is known as the street with many Kura storehouses and named as a little Edo, which attracts many tourists. In fact, the streets were mostly rebuilt after Kawagoe Great Fire in 1893 of the Meiji Era, not during the Edo Period. However, the city area originates from the castle town of Kawagoe Castle. In addition, the castle and town were developed with a deep relationship with Edo City (the current Tokyo), the shogun’s capital.

The range of Kawagoe City and the location of the castle

The Osawa Clan’s residence, the originator of the Kura storehouses, which survived the great fire and was followed by the others
Toki-no-kane (time bell tower) of Kawagoe

Dokan Ota builds Castle

The Kawagoe area is surrounded by curved Iruma River in three directions, the north, east and west. That’s why the city’s name may come from the place you need to go over (Goe) the river (Kawa). The first lord family of the area is said to be the Kawagoe Clan which lived in the western riverside of the Iruma River between the 12th and 14th Centuries. The clan’s residence was still not located in the later Kawagoe Castle. The castle was first built in 1457 by Dokan Ota who was a senior vassal of the Ogigayatsu Uesugi Clan. The clan had been fighting against the Ashikaga Clan since 1455, together with the relative Yamanouchi Uesugi Clan. They confronted at Tone River, the largest river in the Kanto Region. The Uesugi Clans took their positions at the western side of the river, that’s why they needed several new castles behind the river. Kawagoe Castle was one of the three major ones, followed by Edo and Iwatsuki Castles.

The map around the castle

The ruins of the Kawagoe Clan’s residence
The copy of the sitting statue of Dokan Ota, exhibited by Kawagoe City Museum
Part of “View of Edo” left screen. pair of six-panel folding screens, in the 17th century, owned by National Museum of Japanese History (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Stage of Night Battle of Kawagoe

Kawagoe Castle eventually became the home of the Ogikayatsu Uesugi Clan. When the clan had an internal conflict with the Yamanouchi Uesugi Clan during the beginning of the 16th Century, the castle became the frontline of the battle. This was because the Yamanouchi Uesugi Clan reused the former Kawagoe Clan’s residence as its encampment across the Iruma River. During their internal fighting, the Hojo Clan invaded the Kanto Region and finally captured Kawagoe Castle in 1537. Both Uesugi Clans noticed their crisis and made peace with each other to get the castle back. The clans’ large troops surrounded the castle which was owned by Tsunanari Hojo in October of 1545.

The ruins of the moats the Yamanouchi-Uesugi Clan built at the former Kawagoe Clan’s residence

The castle was still small at that time and located at the edge of Musashino Plateau with few enclosures made of soil. However, it was protected by natural waterlogged areas around the Iruma River in three directions, the north, south and east. It was thought that artificial ditches and moats were built in the other direction and around the castle. In April of 1546, Ujiyasu Hojo, the lord of the clan reinforced the castle. He announced that he and the castle would surrender to the Uesugi Clans, which threw them off their guard. On 20th of April, Ujiyasu started a night attack against the Uesugi Clans, which was called the Night Battle of Kawagoe. A severe battle happened at Tomyoji Temple, just about 800m away from the center of the castle. That resulted in the Hojo’s hegemony and the Uesugi’s destruction in the region.

The relief map around the castle, the slight elevation around Shingashi RIver is the Musashino Plateau

Isanuma Marsh, located in the east of the castle ruins, around the castle may have been like this in the past
The current Tomyoji Temple
The portrait of Ujityasu Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Place to Stay for Shoguns

The region was owned by the Tokugawa Clan at the end of the 16th Century and the Tokugawa Shogunate was established in 1603. Edo Castle became the shogun’s home, so Kawagoe Castle became an important defense for Edo Castle to the north. That’s why the Sakai Clan, which was trusted by the shoguns, became the lords of Kawagoe Castle. Oher than that, the 1st shogun (Ieyasu) and the 3rd shogun (Iemitsu) often stayed in Kawagoe Castle when they went hunting. There was an episode which indicated their relationship with Kawagoe as following. The Kitain Temple in Kawagoe was re-established by Priest Tenkai who was also trusted by the shoguns in 1599. However, it was burned down by a great fire in 1638. The shogun, Iemitsu ordered to immediately restore the temple, offering some Edo Castle’s buildings including his birth room and his foster mother, Lady Kasuga’s make-up room. They are remaining in the temple.

The main enclosure of Kawagoe Castle drawn in “View of Edo”, the buildings inside seem to have been the shogun’s loggings, exhibited by National Museum of Japanese Histories
The portrait of Iemitsu Tokugawa, owned by Kinzanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Kitain Temple (its multi-treasure pagoda)
The buildings of the former Edo Castle Main Hall, remaining in the temple

Important Defense and Satellite City for Edo

The castle and the area around were followed by several other hereditary vassals of the shoguns as the Kawagoe Domain. Some of them became members of the shogun’s council of elders in the central government. One of them, Nobutsuna Matsudaira improved the castle. He doubled the castle’s range by building new enclosures, turrets and gates. However, the castle was still basically made of soil without the Main Tower, which looked like a group of halls. To prevent enemies from invading, complex routes were built with earthen walls, mud walls, and water moats, instead of high stone walls and turrets in other castles. The castle town was also developed with Kawagoe Road, Shingashi River as waterways, and agricultural land. As a result, the town prospered by providing their products, such as Somen noodles, silk goods, and Kawagoe sweet potatoes which is still popular, to Edo City which was already one of the largest cities in the world.

The miniature model of Kawagoe Castle after the improvement, the Kitain Temple is over there, exhibited by Kawagoe City Museum
Kawagoe sweet potatoes

The center of the castle was the Main Hall in the second enclosure. While the main enclosure had been used as the loggings for the shoguns it was abandoned for sometime. After the Main Hall was burned down in 1846, the Kawagoe Domain decided to rebuild the hall in the main enclosure. Although the domain was facing huge financial problems due to being in charge of the coast guard of Edo Bay against possible invasions form the Western ships, the hall was completed in 1848 thanks to lots of additional taxes and donations from locals.

The second enclosure of Kawagoe Castle drawn in “View of Edo”, exhibited by National Museum of Japanese Histories
The remaininng Main Hall of Kawagoe Castle

To be continued in “Kawagoe Castle Part2”

162.Izushi Castle/Arikoyama Castle Part3

Next comes Izushi Castle Ruins. Visitors usually first go across Tojo-bashi Bridge over Taniyama-gawa River in front of the ruins and enter Tojo-mon Gate. You will climb gentle stone steps while seeing great stone walls of the Second Enclosure on the left.

Features

Easy Route to Izushi Castle Ruins

Next comes Izushi Castle Ruins which casual visitors can easily get to. The ruins consist of several tiered enclosures at the foot of the mountain. Visitors usually first go across Tojo-bashi (meaning the bridge for going to the castle) over Taniyama-gawa River in front of the ruins and enter Tojo-mon (meaning the gate for going to the castle). You will climb gentle stone steps while seeing great stone walls of the Second Enclosure on the left. The stones used for the walls look more processed and newer than those of Arikoyama Castle on the mountain, because of the difference of their periods. The enclosure is empty now, which was used as the domain’s offices.

The map around the castle

The Tojo-bashi Gate
The Tojo-mon Gate
The stone walls of the second enclosure on the left
The top on the second enclosure

The main enclosure is above the second enclosure, which has two rebuilt turrets on both front corners (called the Eastern and Western Corner Turrets). Their designs are different from the original ones, but are made out of wood in a traditional way and look good matching the remaining stone walls.

The Western Corner Turret
The interior of the Western Corner Turrret, it is sometimes open to the public
The Eastern Corner Turret

There was the Main Hall in the enclosure, and is now Kannoden Shrine instead, which worships Hisahide Sengoku, the founder of the clan.

The top of the main enclosure
The Kannoden Shrine

Inari Enclosure at Highest of Castle

The Inari Enclosure is at the highest of the castle. It also has the highest stone walls in the castle at 13.5m. This is very rare among Japanese castles as other castles’ main enclosures are usually at the highest and have the greatest stone walls in the castle. The Arikoyama Shrine building has been constructed in the Inari Enclosure since the early stage of the castle. The current building was rebuilt during the late Edo Period and looks very old.

The high stone walls of the Inari Enclosure on the right
The Arikoyama Inari Shrine
A view from the enclosure

Attractions of Castle Town

Part of the old castle town is the former third enclosure which had the Main, Eastern and Western Gates. You can still see the partially remaining stone walls of the Main and Western Gates there. You can also visit Karo Yashiki (meaning the Senior Vassal’s Residence) which is the only remaining Samurai residence in this area. It is interesting that it looks like a single-storied house, but in fact, it has a secret chamber as the second floor.

The map around the castle town

The stone walls of the Main Gate
The stone walls of the Western Gate
The Karo-Yashiki Residence
The hidden second floor of the residence, the host on the right can see who is coming from the steps on the left through the hole in the central wall

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Izushi Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished in 1871. Instead, locals built a new drum tower called Shinkoro at the Main Gate in the same year. The tower was turned into a clock tower in 1881 and has become a symbol of the area. The area once declined because it deviated from a railway line. However, locals made great efforts to boost tourism by rebuilding castle buildings, promoting Izushi Soba noodles, Izushi Pottery which originated from the castle’s period, and so on. The area was also designated as a Preservation District for Groups of Historic Buildings in 2007. As a result, the area has become an attractive traditional town as we can see now.

The Shinkoro Tower
Izushi Soba Noodles, they are usually served on a plate

My Impression

As a fact, visiting the Izushi area takes a lot of time no matter which transportation you take. However, lots of people often visit the area. That’s because there are many attractions including the two castle ruins of Izushi and Akikoyama. Other attractions also came from the long history of this area. In my case, I would like to visit that place again to get to the ruins of Konosumi-yama Castle which the Yamana Clan first lived and I didn’t know about during my last visit. Other than castles and ruins, I would also like to buy another Izushi Pottery which has white skin and engraved patterns.

A street of the castle town
Izushi Pottery

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about a 30-minute drive away from Wadayama IC on the Bantan Renkaku Road.
There are several parking lots around Izushi Castle Ruins.
By public transportation, you can take the Zentan bus bound for Izushi from JR Toyooka Station and get off at the final bus stop.
From Tokyo to Toyooka Station: take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Sanin Line at Kyoto Station.

The Toyooka Station, the bus terminal is around the center

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Izushi Castle/Arikoyama Castle Part1”
Back to “Izushi Castle/Arikoyama Castle Part2”

162.Izushi Castle/Arikoyama Castle Part1

The Izushi area is known as its old castle town where many people visit to enjoy walking, eating and shopping around the area including the Izushi Castle Ruins at the foot of the mountain. If you look up at the mountain on a fine day, you will find stone walls on the top, which are other castle ruins in this area, called Arikoyama Castle which had been built before Izushi Castle.

Location and History

Two Castle Ruins in Izushi Area

Izushi Castle is located in modern day in the Izushi area of Toyooka City in the northern part of Hyogo Prefecture. The area is known as the old castle town where many people visit to enjoy walking, eating and shopping around the area including the Izushi Castle Ruins at the foot of the mountain. If you look up at the mountain on a fine day, you will find stone walls on the top, which are other castle ruins in this area, called Arikoyama Castle which had been built before Izushi Castle. These things make you understand the area has a very long history and rich culture.

The range of Toyooka City and the location of the castles

A street of the old Izushi castle town
Izushi Castle Ruins in the front and Arikoyama Castle Ruins in the back
The zooemed stone walls on the mountain

Yamana Clan, One of Greatest Lords during Middle Ages

Arikoyama Castle was first built by the Yamana Clan which is known as one of the greatest lords during the Middle Ages. The clan was a branch family of the Nitta Clan, which came from the Kanto Region in eastern Japan. When the Ashikaga Shogunate was established, Tokiuji Yamana, who was the lord of the clan at that time, greatly supported Takauji Ashikaga, the founder of the shogunate. That’s why Takauji sent Tokiuji to the Sanin area, the northern part of the Chugoku Region to govern, where their enemies were still active. Tokiuji and his descendants conquered their territories by force and finally became the governors of 11 out of 66 provinces in Japan, called Rokubun-no-ichi-dono (meaning the Lord of One Sixth of Japan).

The family crest of the Yamana Clan (licensed by Houunji 1642 via Wikimedia Commons)
The 11 provinces the Yamana Clan became governors (the colored ones)  (licensed by ja:User:味っ子 via Wikimedia Commons)

However, Yoshimitsu Ashikaga, the third Shogun, was afraid of the overwhelming power of the Yamana Clan and defeated it in 1391, known as the Meitoku Rebellion. The clan’s power once declined but Sozen Yamana came out in the 15th Century and revived it as they had been. He is known as the commander in chief of the Western Alliance against the Eastern Alliance led by Katsumoto Hosokawa during the Onin War between 1467 and 1477 which would start the Sengoku Period. The clan eventually had many provinces again and its home was in the current Izushi area of Tajima Province which is now known as northern Hyogo Prefecture. The lords of the clan were first based in Konosumi-yama Castle on a mountain, about 5km north of the later Arikoyama Castle. Sozen actually made a sally with about 26 thousand warriors from this castle to fight with the Eastern Alliance in Kyoto.

The portrait of Sozen Yamana, from “Honcho-Hyakushoden” (licensed by Musuketeer.3 via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Katsumoto Hosokawa, owned by Ryoanji Temple  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Unlike the Hosokawa Clan which had a certain position in the central government, the Yamana Clan had to maintain its provinces by force. It got difficult for the clan to do it during the Sengoku Period when overthrowing their lords were often seen as overthrowing the whole country. The clan eventually lost its provinces one by one, being defeated in many battles against other warlords like the Akamatsu and Amago Clans. As a result, the Yamana’s authority decreased and some of its senior vassals tried to become independent. Suketoyo Yamana, the lord of the clan tried to somehow manage to maintain his last Tajima Province by building Takeda Castle near the border to other provinces, and asking greater warlords like the Oda and Mori Clans for help.

The range of Tajima Province and the location of the castles

The ruins of Takeda Castle

Suketoyo Yamana moves his home to Arikoyama Castle

However, when the Oda Clan attacked the Tajima Province in 1569, Suketomo’s home Konosumi-yama Castle was captured and he had to escape from the place. This might have been caused by the secret agreement between the Oda and Mori Clans that the Tajima Province would belong to the Oda. Suketoyo somehow returned to his territory in 1570 after he had met with Nobunaga Oda (the lord of the clan) while paying lots of money from mining in the province. Then, he moved to his home to Arikoyama Castle, located on a much higher and steeper mountain than Konosumi-yama Castle, and improved it so that the fall of his castle would never happen again. Suketomo usually lived in the residence at the foot of the mountain, which would be the origin of Izushi Castle and its castle town.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The relief map around the castles

In the 1570’s, the Oda and Mori Clans began to oppose each other. Suketomo was debating on the face on which side he would support. The Oda Clan attacked the Tajima Province again in 1580 by sending Hidenaga Hashiba who was the little brother of Hideyoshi, the later ruler of Japan. It is said that one of the reasons for the invasion was that they wanted to own the mines in the province, such as the Ikuno Silver Mine. Hidenaga’s troops surrounded Arikoyama Castle and Suketomo finally had to surrender perhaps because they had no hope for reinforcements.

The portrait of Hidenaga Hashiba, owned by Shungakuin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Hidenaga Hashiba improves Castle

After that, Hidenaga lived in and improved the castle as the home base of the Tajima Province. The castle had been made of soil so far but its main portion on the top was fortified by building stone walls. It is said that Takatora Todo, who was a senior vassal of Hidenaga and would later become a master of castle constructions, built them. Senjoshiki (meaning the 1,000 mat enclosure), next to the main portion, was developed to accommodate many soldiers and supplies even when other lords in the province gathered for help.

The portrait of Takatora Todo, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The imaginary drawing of Arikoyama Castle, exhibited by Karo Yashiki Residence

Yoshihide Koide builds Izushi Castle

The castle was followed by the Koide Clan, a relative of Hideyoshi Toyotomi after he became the ruler of Japan. The clan somehow survived when the ruler was changed from the Toyotomi Clan to the Tokugawa Shogunate. In 1604, Yoshihide Koide renovated the foot residence and renamed it Izushi Castle perhaps due to the convenience for the government. He also abandoned Arikoyama Castle on the mountain instead. The new castle and its castle town prospered during the Edo Period as the Izushi Domain, which was finally followed by the Sengoku Clan until the end of the period.

The imaginary drawing of Izushi Castle, exhibited by Karo Yashiki Residence

To be continued in “Izushi Castle/Arikoyama Castle Part2”