13.Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part1

An epochal event happened to the castle in 1627 when Nagashige Niwa came there as the founder of the Shirakawa Domain. Nagashige was a son of Nagahide Niwa who was in charge of building Azuchi Castle, the fist modernized castle in Japan, under Nobunaga Oda. He was a master of castle constructions by following the know-how and connection from his father.

Location and History

Yuki Clan builds Caste as their Branch

The Shirakawa area, which is modern day Shirakawa City, has been the entrance of the Tohoku Region. There was a famous barrier called Shirakawa-no-seki (meaning the Shirakawa Barrier) in the area during the Ancient Times. Shirakawa-Komine Castle was first built by the Yuki Clan during the 14th Century and simply called Komine (meaning small mountain) Castle. The clan had lived in another castle called Shirakawa Castle. They originally came from the Kanto Region to the south and settled there during the 13th Century. Komine Castle was built on a hill beside Abukuma River as their branch castle to protect their home. Komine Castle would later become more popular and also be called Shirakawa Castle. To avoid confusion, historians and officials classify them and call the second Shirakawa Castle, Shirakawa-Komine Castle.

The range of Shirakawa City and the location of the castle

The ruins of the Shirakawa Barrier
The ruins of Shirakawa Castle
The ruins of Shirakawa-Komine Castle

Nagashige Niwa greatly modernizes Castle

The Yuki Clan was unfortunately fired by the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi during his unification of Japan at the end of the 16th Century. After that, Shirakawa-Komine Castle was followed by the Uesugi and the Gamo Clans as their branch. It was said that the basic structures of the castle were built by them but were still mostly made of soil. An epochal event happened to the castle in 1627 when Nagashige Niwa came there as the founder of the Shirakawa Domain. Nagashige was a son of Nagahide Niwa who was in charge of building Azuchi Castle, the fist modernized castle in Japan, under Nobunaga Oda. Nagashige joined the Western Alliance in the decisive battles in 1600 when he was a lord in the Hokuriku Region, against the Eastern Alliance which won and established the Tokugawa Shogunate. That’s why Nagashige was once fired by the shogunate. However, he was appointed as an independent lord again in 1603. One of the reasons may be that he was a master of castle constructions by following the know-how and connection from his father.

The portrait of Nagashige Niwa, owned by Dairinji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Nagahide Niwa, from the database of Historiographical Institute, the University of Tokyo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The imaginary drawing of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Gifu Castle

Nagashige renovated the castle as his home between 1629 to 1632. The shogunate also expected him to build a strong castle to monitor many non-hereditary feudal lords in the Tohoku Region to the north. Nagashige built stone walls, water moats, turrets and residences on the existing castle. He also changed the flow of the Abukuma River from the west to the north to make the castle more spacious and more defensive from that direction. The three-level turret was built at the northeastern corner of the main enclosure to monitor the Oshu Road to the north, too. It was 14m high and the symbol of the castle. It was also called the Main Tower in the first stage of the castle, but eventually stopped. This was probably done after the Main Tower of Edo Castle, the shogun’s home, was burned down in 1657 and not rebuilt. The Shirakawa Domain might have considered the relationship with the shogun.

The miniature model of Shirakawa-Komine Castle, exhibited by Komine-jo Castle History Museum
The Abukuma River flowing north of the castle
The restored three-level turret of Shirakawa-Komine Castle

Sadanobu Matsudaira starts Reform

The castle and the domain were followed by several hereditary feudal lord families such as the Sakakibara, Honda, Matsudaira (Okudaira), and Matsudaira (Yuki) Clans. The Tohoku Region including the Shirakawa area was not fertile at that time, often suffering damages from cold weather, droughts, and floods. Therefore, the Shirakawa domain was always having financial problems. In 1783, Sadanobu Matsudaira (Hisamatsu) became the lord and started to reform the government. His basic policies were to simplify lives and save money. He encouraged academics and military arts to the warriors, and more production to the farmers. In particular, his social policies were excellent. For example, he saved farmers even in the Tenmei Great famine during the 1780’s and supported their infants. He finally became the head of the members of the shogun’s council of elders in 1787 to lead Kansei Reforms in the central government. He also made detailed drawings of the castle buildings which would later give us an unexpected fortune.

The self-portrait of Sadanobu Matsudaira (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Sadanobu also opened Nanko (meaning South Lake) Park for people

Castle falls in Battle of Shirakawaguchi

The Abe Clan finally followed the domain in 1823. However, Masato Abe, who was involved in the central government, but was punished due to his policy’s failure in 1866. As a result, the Shirakawa area was like terra nullius (officially owned by the shogunate), which would bring a big misfortune to the castle. In 1868 during the Meiji Restoration, the new government, which defeated the shogunate, and many domains in the Tohoku Region, which still supported the shogunate, confronted each other, known as the Boshin War. The new government army’s first target was the Shirakawa area, the entrance of the region. The alliance of the Tohoku domains had to protect the area and Shirakawa-Komine Castle together.

The photo of Masato Abe, the last lord of the castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

However, the castle had weak points to the south, the direction from which the army was coming. There were three hills (Inari, Tateishi, and Raijin Mountains) around 1km from the castle, which could be used for cannons to target it. In addition, the new government army were equipped with more advanced guns than the alliance troops. The alliance was also undisciplined without excellent commanders. On the 1st of May, the Battle of Shirakawa-guchi occurred. The army occupied these hills and fired at the troops and the castle. The alliance was eventually defeated and the castle was captured in only one day. Many of the castle buildings including the three-level turret were also burned down. After that, the alliance tried to get the castle back several times but failed each time. One of the reasons may be the strong defense of the castle to the north which the alliance withdrew to and was striking back from.

The relief map around the castle

The monument of the Battle of Shirakawa-guchi at the site
The destroyed Shirakawa-Komine Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Shirakawa-Komine Castle Part2”

19.Kawagoe Castle Part1

Kawagoe Castle was located in modern day Kawagoe City of Saitama Prefecture at the central part of the Kanto Region. Its former castle town is known as the street with many Kura storehouses and named as a little Edo, which attracts many tourists. The castle and town were developed with a deep relationship with Edo City (the current Tokyo), the shogun’s capital.

Location and History

Kawagoe Castle was located in modern day Kawagoe City of Saitama Prefecture at the central part of the Kanto Region. The city is known as the street with many Kura storehouses and named as a little Edo, which attracts many tourists. In fact, the streets were mostly rebuilt after Kawagoe Great Fire in 1893 of the Meiji Era, not during the Edo Period. However, the city area originates from the castle town of Kawagoe Castle. In addition, the castle and town were developed with a deep relationship with Edo City (the current Tokyo), the shogun’s capital.

The range of Kawagoe City and the location of the castle

The Osawa Clan’s residence, the originator of the Kura storehouses, which survived the great fire and was followed by the others
Toki-no-kane (time bell tower) of Kawagoe

Dokan Ota builds Castle

The Kawagoe area is surrounded by curved Iruma River in three directions, the north, east and west. That’s why the city’s name may come from the place you need to go over (Goe) the river (Kawa). The first lord family of the area is said to be the Kawagoe Clan which lived in the western riverside of the Iruma River between the 12th and 14th Centuries. The clan’s residence was still not located in the later Kawagoe Castle. The castle was first built in 1457 by Dokan Ota who was a senior vassal of the Ogigayatsu Uesugi Clan. The clan had been fighting against the Ashikaga Clan since 1455, together with the relative Yamanouchi Uesugi Clan. They confronted at Tone River, the largest river in the Kanto Region. The Uesugi Clans took their positions at the western side of the river, that’s why they needed several new castles behind the river. Kawagoe Castle was one of the three major ones, followed by Edo and Iwatsuki Castles.

The map around the castle

The ruins of the Kawagoe Clan’s residence
The copy of the sitting statue of Dokan Ota, exhibited by Kawagoe City Museum
Part of “View of Edo” left screen. pair of six-panel folding screens, in the 17th century, owned by National Museum of Japanese History (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Stage of Night Battle of Kawagoe

Kawagoe Castle eventually became the home of the Ogikayatsu Uesugi Clan. When the clan had an internal conflict with the Yamanouchi Uesugi Clan during the beginning of the 16th Century, the castle became the frontline of the battle. This was because the Yamanouchi Uesugi Clan reused the former Kawagoe Clan’s residence as its encampment across the Iruma River. During their internal fighting, the Hojo Clan invaded the Kanto Region and finally captured Kawagoe Castle in 1537. Both Uesugi Clans noticed their crisis and made peace with each other to get the castle back. The clans’ large troops surrounded the castle which was owned by Tsunanari Hojo in October of 1545.

The ruins of the moats the Yamanouchi-Uesugi Clan built at the former Kawagoe Clan’s residence

The castle was still small at that time and located at the edge of Musashino Plateau with few enclosures made of soil. However, it was protected by natural waterlogged areas around the Iruma River in three directions, the north, south and east. It was thought that artificial ditches and moats were built in the other direction and around the castle. In April of 1546, Ujiyasu Hojo, the lord of the clan reinforced the castle. He announced that he and the castle would surrender to the Uesugi Clans, which threw them off their guard. On 20th of April, Ujiyasu started a night attack against the Uesugi Clans, which was called the Night Battle of Kawagoe. A severe battle happened at Tomyoji Temple, just about 800m away from the center of the castle. That resulted in the Hojo’s hegemony and the Uesugi’s destruction in the region.

The relief map around the castle, the slight elevation around Shingashi RIver is the Musashino Plateau

Isanuma Marsh, located in the east of the castle ruins, around the castle may have been like this in the past
The current Tomyoji Temple
The portrait of Ujityasu Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Place to Stay for Shoguns

The region was owned by the Tokugawa Clan at the end of the 16th Century and the Tokugawa Shogunate was established in 1603. Edo Castle became the shogun’s home, so Kawagoe Castle became an important defense for Edo Castle to the north. That’s why the Sakai Clan, which was trusted by the shoguns, became the lords of Kawagoe Castle. Oher than that, the 1st shogun (Ieyasu) and the 3rd shogun (Iemitsu) often stayed in Kawagoe Castle when they went hunting. There was an episode which indicated their relationship with Kawagoe as following. The Kitain Temple in Kawagoe was re-established by Priest Tenkai who was also trusted by the shoguns in 1599. However, it was burned down by a great fire in 1638. The shogun, Iemitsu ordered to immediately restore the temple, offering some Edo Castle’s buildings including his birth room and his foster mother, Lady Kasuga’s make-up room. They are remaining in the temple.

The main enclosure of Kawagoe Castle drawn in “View of Edo”, the buildings inside seem to have been the shogun’s loggings, exhibited by National Museum of Japanese Histories
The portrait of Iemitsu Tokugawa, owned by Kinzanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Kitain Temple (its multi-treasure pagoda)
The buildings of the former Edo Castle Main Hall, remaining in the temple

Important Defense and Satellite City for Edo

The castle and the area around were followed by several other hereditary vassals of the shoguns as the Kawagoe Domain. Some of them became members of the shogun’s council of elders in the central government. One of them, Nobutsuna Matsudaira improved the castle. He doubled the castle’s range by building new enclosures, turrets and gates. However, the castle was still basically made of soil without the Main Tower, which looked like a group of halls. To prevent enemies from invading, complex routes were built with earthen walls, mud walls, and water moats, instead of high stone walls and turrets in other castles. The castle town was also developed with Kawagoe Road, Shingashi River as waterways, and agricultural land. As a result, the town prospered by providing their products, such as Somen noodles, silk goods, and Kawagoe sweet potatoes which is still popular, to Edo City which was already one of the largest cities in the world.

The miniature model of Kawagoe Castle after the improvement, the Kitain Temple is over there, exhibited by Kawagoe City Museum
Kawagoe sweet potatoes

The center of the castle was the Main Hall in the second enclosure. While the main enclosure had been used as the loggings for the shoguns it was abandoned for sometime. After the Main Hall was burned down in 1846, the Kawagoe Domain decided to rebuild the hall in the main enclosure. Although the domain was facing huge financial problems due to being in charge of the coast guard of Edo Bay against possible invasions form the Western ships, the hall was completed in 1848 thanks to lots of additional taxes and donations from locals.

The second enclosure of Kawagoe Castle drawn in “View of Edo”, exhibited by National Museum of Japanese Histories
The remaininng Main Hall of Kawagoe Castle

To be continued in “Kawagoe Castle Part2”

114.Karasawayama Castle Part3

The stone walls of the main enclosure entrance are not so high, but use several huge ornament stones.
In addition, the entrance was recently researched and it was found that it had a turret gate. Overall, these structures made the castle stronger as well as more authorized.

Features

Great Stone Walls of Main Enclosure

The stone walls are around 8m high and about 40m long. They were built by piling natural or roughly processed stones in a way called Nozura-zumi. They look rough but really great! It was said that the last lord, Nobuyoshi Sano built them by inviting an excellent guild of stone craftsmen celled Ano-shu from western Japan.

The map around the castle

The high stone walls of the enclosure
The stone walls seen from the second enclosure side

You will eventually enter the second enclosure just below the main enclosure. Therefore, you will see the entrance of the main enclosure, which was also surrounded by great stone walls. They are not so high (at 2.5m), but use several huge ornament stones, called Kagami-ishi (meaning mirror stones).
In addition, the entrance was recently researched and it was found that it had a turret gate. Overall, these structures made the castle stronger as well as more authorized.

The second enclosure in the front and the main enclosure in the back
The entrance of the main enclosure
One of the ornament stones

The enclosure is on top of the mountain and is used for the shine buildings. It is unknown what buildings it had in the past, but it might have had buildings like the Main Hall and the Main Tower.

The front shrine hall
The stone walls around the enclosure

Defensive Spots in North and South

There is another enclosure, in the south of the main enclosure, called Nanjo (meaning southern castle). It was built to protect the southern ridge of the mountain where you can see stone walls and dry moats around. The shrine office is on the enclosure and this is another great viewing spot. If the weather is fine, you can enjoy a view of both Tokyo Sky Tree and Mt. Fuji. Nobuyoshi might have had no choice but to accept the shogunate’s close questioning that looking down on Edo Castle from the mountain would be rude.

The southern castle
The stone walls around the enclosure
The dry moats around the enclosure, called the First Moat
A view from the enclosure, it was clouded when I visited there

There is also other enclosures on the northern ridges, such as the Northern Castle. They are basically made of soil, divided by earthen ditches and connected by earthen bridges, which were older parts of the castle.

The Nagato-maru Enclosure
The Kane-no-maru Enclosure
The Sugi Enclosure
The double ditches between the Sugi and northern enclosures
The northern enclosure

Hiking Course has other Castle Ruins

For hikers, it is recommended to try part of Karasawayama Shuyu(Round) Course, from the castle to Imori-yama Mountain via the Kagami-iwa Rock, Byobu-iwa Rock and Gongen-do Hall Ruins. The course is on another ridge connected to the Karasawayama Mountain, which was a defense point for the castle.

The map around the mountain

The relief map around the mountain

The location map of the hiking course
The Kagami-iwa Rock
The byobu-iwa Rock and the view

That’s why you can see a set of a narrow bridge with artificial ditches on the way. You can also enjoy a great view of the whole Kanto Region on each peak of the ridge. The Imori Mountain is where Kenshin Uesugi and Masatsuna Sano fought against each other in their last battle in 1570.

The bridge over the ditch
Going to the Gongendo Hall Ruins
A view from the hall ruins
The zoomed Mt. Fuji
The top of the Imori Mountain

Later History

After the Sano Clan was banished by the Tokugawa Shogunate, the Ii Clan which was a senior vassal family of the shogunate owned the Sano area as its detached territory during the Edo Period. The clan banned people from entering the mountain, the former castle area. That’s why the ruins of the castle have been preserved in a good condition. After the Meiji Restoration, locals established the Karasawayama Shrine in 1883. Establishing shrines on castle ruins was a popular way to maintain them at that time. The ruins also became part of Karasawayama Prefectural Natural Park in 1965. That’s why several approaches and hiking courses have been developed there. As for castle ruins, Sano City has been researching and studying them since 2007. As a result, they were designated as a National Historic Site in 2014.

Karasawayama Shrine

My Impression

The current people often say Kenshin Uesugi attacked Karasawayama Castle and approached its main enclosure, but failed. Meanwhile, Kenshin himself wrote on his letter in 1567 when he owned the castle and was attacked by the Hojo Clan that “Only the Main Enclosure remained”. I’m not sure if similar things happened twice whether the people misunderstood Kenshin’s sides. Either way, Kenshin and the castle were closely involved. I think the people are still borrowing his name even today to explain about the strength of the castle.

The main enclosure of Karasawayama Castle

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about a 10-minute drive away from Sano-Tanuma IC on the Kitakanto Expressway.
There are parking lots at the foot, the mid slope and top of the mountain.
By public transportation, it takes about 40 minutes on foot from Tanuma Station on the Tobu-Sano Line to the top.
From Tokyo to the station: take the train on the Joban Line from Tokyo or Ueno Stations, transfer to the Tobu-Isesaki Line at Kitasenju Station, and transfer to the Tobu-Sano Line at Tatebayashi Station.

The parking lot at the top
The parking lot at the southern route
The parking lot at the western route
The parking lot on the way of the hiking course

That’s all. Thank you.
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