167.Shingu Castle Part1

A castle with advanced stone walls

Location and History

Singu City has Long History

Shingu City is located in the southern part of Wakayama Prefecture, around the estuary of Kumano-gawa River. It has a rich nature and a long history. It even has a tradition that Jofuku of the Qin Dynasty in ancient China. He arrived in search of the elixir of life. It is also known for the location of Kumano Hayamizu Taisha, one of the three main Kumano Shrines. Because of the location, the Chief Priest or Betto of Kumano Shrines had governed the area. However, the Shrines’ power decreased during the Sengoku Period when many battles happened.

The Jofuku Park in Shingu City (licensed by 663highland via Wikimedia Commons)
Kumano Hayamizu Taisha Shrine (licensed by 663highland via Wikimedia Commons)

Tadayoshi Asano builds Castle, followed by Shigenaka Mizuno

Instead, a local lord of the Horiuchi Clan got the power to govern. In 1600 when the Battle of Sekigahara occurred, the clan supported the Western Squad. That resulted in the clan’s destruction because the Eastern Squad, led by Ieyasu Tokugawa who was the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, won. The shogunate sent the Asano Clan to Kii Province, what is modern day Wakayama Prefecture, as its lord. The Shingu area was governed by Tadayoshi Asano, the clan’s relative, who first built Shingu Castle.

The range of Kii Province and the location of the castle

The area prospered as a junction for water transportation connecting Kumano-gawa River and the Pacific Ocean. Wooden materials such as the Kumano Cedar were gathered in and carried from there using it. People, who had been called the Kumano Navy in the Sengoku Period, operated it. Tadayoshi needed to control them by building the castle, which was built on a hill called Tankaku-yama near the estuary of the river. He was also required to make the castle strong because some local warriors and farmers called the Kitayama Uprising were against him. In 1614, the uprising people actually tried to attack the castle, but were repelled by the Asano troops with the former Navy people.

Part of the illustration of Shingu Castle in Kii Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

The castle was once abandoned in 1615 because of the Law of One Castle per Province by the Tokugawa Shogunate. However, Tadayoshi was allowed to start rebuilding the castle probably at the same place in 1618 for some reasons. After he was transferred to another territory by the shogunate, the Tokugawa Clan owned the province. The clan was one of the three branches of the Tokugawa Family, based in Wakayama Castle as the Kishu Domain. A senior vassal of the clan, Shigenaka Mizuno entered Shingu Castle following the construction that Tadayoshi Asano launched. The construction continued for many years and was finally completed in 1667.

The portrait of Shigenaka Mizuno, owned by Kinshoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Advanced Stone Walls and Water Supply Enclosure used for Trading

The castle had several buildings on the hill, including the three-level Main Tower. However, one of the most important features of it have been its advanced stone walls. The construction of the castle was done in the later period than those of other castles in Japan. This was because building new castles were basically not allowed after the law in 1615. Methods of processing and piling stone walls were much improved until then. Shingu Castle was one of the few cases which could enjoy the advanced technology completely.

The stone walls of the Main Enclosure

Another outstanding feature of it was Mizunote or the Water Supply Enclosure below the hill along the river. This was used as a port probably for the Navy at the first stage of the castle. However, in the peaceful time of the Edo Period, there were a lot of storage rooms for charcoal in the enclosure. It is thought that the charcoal was delivered from the castle to sell to large cities like Edo and Osaka. The Kii Domain made a profit on it. This was a rare example of economic activities which were done in Japanese castles.

The Water Supply Enclosure
THE charcoal, unearthed in the enclosure, , exhibited by Shingu City Museum of History and Folklore

To be continued in “Shingu Castle Part2”

155.Akagi Castle Part3

What was the most important value of this castle?

Features

Long narrow Western Ridge with Tiered Stone Walls

Consider visiting the western ridge as well. It has four tiered enclosures, which are also surrounded by stone walls, on the long narrow ridge. It had buildings including a warehouse. It doesn’t have a complex route like the eastern ridge, but the sides of it are artificially cut vertically to prevent enemies from attacking easily. If you look up the tiered stone walls to the Main Enclosure, they look so impressive.

The aerial photo around the castle

The western ridge seen from the Main Enclosure
Looking up the Main Enclosure from the western ridge
The stone walls of the Western Enclosure I
The stone foundations in the Western Enclosure II (Building ruins)
The tiered stone walls

You can also climb down from the edge of it to the valley between the eastern and western ridges, called the Southern Enclosures. It is thought to be used for living quarters as the remains of cooking stoves were found there, and it seems like an obvious location because of the convenience of access.

The edge of the western ridge
The Southern Enclosures seen from above (The Southern Enclosure II in the center)
The Southern Enclosures (The Southern Enclosure III in the front)

Later History

After Akagi Castle was abandoned, many of its stone walls collapsed. This was because some of them were destroyed by the final occupants of the castle to show the castle could be no longer used, and others collapsed naturally over long periods of time. The ruins also got overgrown with trees and bushes. However, since they were designated as a National Historic Site in 1989, Kumano City researched and restored the ruins mainly by re-piling and repairing the stone walls, finishing 2004. For example, they reused the original stones as much as possible, but in the parts where that was not possible, they built new stone walls like the original, indicating with signs that this was not original structure.

The Eastern Enclosure before the restoring, form the signboard at the site
The stone walls of the Eastern Enclosure II after the restoring

The ruins have recently become popular as they sometimes look like a Castle in the Sky above the clouds in certain weather conditions.

The image of the Castle in the Sky, form the signboard at the site

My Impression

Of the ten or so of Takatora Todo’s great works I think this is the first of them to be built. He was in an area which was still surrounded by possible enemies who were heavily armed. I also think when he built the castle, he considered how to protect himself and his soldiers during the construction even if they were attacked by guns. The layout of the castle seems to protect the center from direct gunfire. I believe one of the most important values of the castle was that Takatora achieved this combining the original conditions at the site such as natural terrain and current technologies like building stone walls.

The entrance of the Main Enclosure

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about 40 minutes from Kumano-Odomari IC on the Kumano-Owase Road. There is a parking lot below the eastern ridge of the castle.
By public transportation, it would be better to use a rental car from Kumanoshi Station or Shingu Station on the JR Kisei Line as there are few or no buses for the site from these stations.
To get to these stations from Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express, transfer to the Nanki limited express at Nagoya Station.

The parking lot
The castle ruins seen from the parking lot

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Akagi Castle Part1”
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155.Akagi Castle Part2

A mountain castle with a strategical defense system

Features

Well maintained Castle Ruins

Today, the ruins of Akagi Castle have been developed and maintained as a historical site by Kumano City. The city is also known for its wooden materials such as Kumano Cedar. The area around the castle produced metals like gold, silver, bronze, and iron in the past. The castle could control the roads which were used to carry these materials. People who visit the ruins by car usually start their walk from the parking lot below the eastern ridge. The ruins don’t have any standing buildings but its stone walls remain in good condition.

Around the parking lot below the eastern ridge
The starting point to the eastern ridge

Eastern ridge as Front of Castle

The ridge is thought to be the front of the castle because it had the most strategical defense system in the castle. You can even now see how it was protected. If you climb the path through the Metalsmith Residences Ruins, it turns left and gets steep between the two enclosures surrounded by stone walls on the ridge.

The route from the eastern ridge to the Main Enclosure (the red arrow), using the signboard at the site
The Metalsmith Residences Ruins
The path turns left

This is a defensive point where the first gate was built to protect the castle.

The ruins of the first gate
The stone walls of the Eastern Enclosures
The gate ruins seen from above the stone walls

Then, the path turns right to climb the ridge, it turns right again to enter the entrance of the Main Enclosure on its stone walls. However, visitors had to use the ladder to enter it, whereas now you can enter it using the wooden steps added in recent times.

Climbing the ridge
The wooden steps towards the Main Enclosure
The wooden steps seen from above

You will also need to turn three times to finally reach the square defensive gate of the enclosure, called Masugata. This uses the highest and greatest stone walls as the final gate of the castle.

The stone walls in front of the Main Enclosure could be an obstruction
The stone walls of the Main Enclosure Entrance
The entrance seen from behinde

Elaborately built Stone Walls surround Main Enclosure

The inside of the Main Enclosure is only a square now, but it had the largest buildings in the castle based on the stone foundations found by the excavation. You can see a view of the surrounding settlements just as the castle lord used to do.

The inside of the Main Enclosure
A view from the Main Enclosure

You can also walk around the outside of the enclosure. You will see how its stone walls were curved elaborately to allow the defenders to make a counter-attacks to the side.

The stone walls of the Main Enclosure
part of the stone walls was curved elaborately

The single enclosure on the northern ridge, directly connected to the Main Enclosure, only partly used stone walls by because it was the back of the castle. However, it was protected by a ditch in front of it.

The Northern Enclosure seen from the Mian Enclosure

The aerial photo around the castle

To be continued in “Akagi Castle Part3”
Back to “Akagi Castle Part1”