Berbican Enclosure with well remaining Stone Walls
Today, the ruins of Mino-Kaneyama Castle have been well developed as part of a natural park though no castle buildings remain. Many people visit the park to relax. If you visit there by car, you can park at the Berbican Enclosure on the mid slope of the mountain. Don’t forget to see the stone walls around the enclosure as they are only walls still intact in this castle. You will understand its reason once you climb up to the Main Enclosure.
The imaginary drawing of the whole Mino-Kaneyama Castle, exhibited by Sengoku Yamashiro Museum
the map around the castle
The imaginary drawing of the Barbican Enclosure in the past, from the signboard at the siteThe present Barbican EnclosureThe remaining stone walls of the Barbican Enclosure
Third Enclosure with trace of Castle destroyed
From the parking lot, you can first enter the Third Enclosure where you will see its stone walls partially collapsed. This is the trace of the castle being intentionally destroyed. No one would be able to build another castle on it and it could also be the sign that the castle had been abandoned. This enclosure has another entrance on the opposite side, which leads to the castle town, however, the route can’t be used now.
The entrance to the Third EnclosureThe imaginary drawing of the Third Enclosure in the past, from the signboard at the siteThe present Third Enclosure (gate ruins)The partially destroyed stone wallsThe other gate ruins
You can also see the partially remaining stone walls of the Second Enclosure above the Third Enclosure.
The imaginary drawing of the Second Enclosure in the past, from the signboard at the siteThe partially remaining stone walls of the Second Enclosure, seen from the Third EnclosureThe present Second Enclosure
Masugata, Important point for Defense
You can go further to the Belt Enclosure surrounding the Main Enclosure by passing the Second Enclosure. You will see many collapsed stones from past stone walls on the way there.
Going to the Belt EnclosureThe slopes of the Belt Enclosure, seen from the Second EnclosureMany collapsed stones on the way
The Belt Enclosure had a square defensive entrance called Masugata, with the Main Gate standing in front of it. That meant it was an important point for the castle to protect. You can now see the ruins of it with the front stone steps and some stone walls surrounding the square space. The ruins of the Second Gate are on the right side of the space and lead to the Main Enclosure.
The imaginary drawing of the Masugata Entrance in the past, from the signboard at the siteThe present Masugata EntranceThe ruins of the Second Gate
Mino-Kaneyama Castle was located in the eastern part of Mino Province, what is now modern day Gifu Prefecture. The castle was built on a mountain which was sandwiched between Kiso-gawa River in the north and Nakasendo Road in the south. That meant it was an important point for controlling transportation during the Sengoku Period when many battles occurred. It was said that it was first built by the Saito Clan in the first 16th Century, and called Uho Castle in its first stage. After that, it was featured since the Mori Clan owned the castle in 1565 and renamed it Kaneyama Castle. The Mori Clan worked under the three rulers; Nobunaga Oda, Hideyoshi Toyotomi and Ieyasu Tokugawa from the Sengoku to the first Edo Periods. If you look into the history of the clan, you will see how severe their lives were and what they did to survive.
The location of the castle
The relief map around the castle
Lords and Brothers are killed in battles one after another
Yoshinari Mori was the lord of the clan in the late 16th Century, who served Nobunaga Oda since Nobunaga did not own many territories. That’s why he was promoted to be the lord of Mino-Kaneyama Castle during Nobunaga’s reign of Mino Province. However, Yoshinari had to join many battles in other provinces through Nobunaga’s instructions. Yoshinari was killed in a battle against the Azai and Asakura Clans in Omi Province (now modern day Shiga Pref.) in 1570. Yoshinari’s son, Nagayoshi followed his father’s position and was also active under Nobunaga.
Yoshinari Mori drawn in the Ukiyo-e painting “Mori Sanzaemon Yoshinari”, attributed to Yoshiiku Ochiai, in 1867 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The illustration of Nagayoshi Mori, owned by Joshoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
He was often referred to Daredevil Musashi (it is part of his official title as the governor of Musashi Province). His three young brothers became Nobunaga’s pages, one of whom was Ranmaru, a famous historical person in Japan. This is because the cast for him is always performed with that for Nobunaga in modern plays showing the Honnoji Incident in 1582 where Nobunaga was killed. Nobunaga actually showed favor to Ranmaru who became the 3rd lord of Mino-Kaneyama Castle after Yoshinari was promoted to be another lord. However, the truth is that all the three brothers were killed in the incident.
The picture of the Honnoji Incident, attributed to Nobukazu Yousai, in 1896 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)Ranmaru Mori drawn in the Ukiyo-e painting “Mori Ranmaru Nagayasu”, attributed to Yoshiiku Ochiai, in 1867 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Only One Brother is left as Next Lord
After the Honnoji Incident, Nagayoshi went back to Mino-Kaneyama Castle and followed Hideyoshi Toyotomi who was Nobunaga’s successor. In 1584 when the Battle of Komaki-Nagakute between Hideyoshi and Ieyasu Tokugawa happened, Nagayoshi joined a feint attack. However, Ieyasu noticed this plan, so he then ambushed and suddenly attacked it. Unfortunately Nagayoshi was instantly killed by a gun shot. As a result, Only Tadamasa, the youngest brother would be left to became the next lord of the Mori Clan. Nagayoshi actually left a will before his death, stating that Tadamasa shouldn’t be the lord of Mino-Kaneyama Castle. His intention is uncertain, but it might have been because he did not want Tadamasa to join battles and risked being killed.
The folding screens of the Battle of Komaki-Nagakute, owned by Toyota City Museum of Local History (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Tadamasa followed Nagayoshi’s position which included the lord of Mino-Kaneyama Castle through Hideyoshi’s instructions. He worked under Hideyoshi, but changed his master to Ieyasu Tokugawa who killed his brother, but would be the next ruler after Hideyoshi died. There might have been other reasons for him to do this, but the main reason was to make a cool-headed decision in order to survive. He was finally promoted as the lord of Mimasaka Province which was a larger territory than before in 1603. He was transferred from Mino-Kaneyama Castle to another in 1600.
The statue of Tadamasa Mori at the ruins of Tsuyama Castle in Mimasaka Province
One of Shokuho Style Castles
As for Mino-Kaneyama Castle itself, it was improved as the Mori Clan was becoming more powerful. The castle had several enclosures on many tiers on the mountain. There were the Main Enclosure on the top, the Barbican Enclosure on the mid slope, and the Second and Third Enclosures between them. It was one of the typical Shokuho style castles which Nobunaga, Hideyoshi, and their retainers built around Japan at that time. The style had three major features; building stone walls, stone foundations for buildings and roof tiles. These items were originally used for temples, high-class government houses and Imperial Palaces before that time. Nobunaga started to use them on his and his retainers’ castles to show his authority and power similar to his Azuchi Castle. The enclosures of Mino-Kaneyama Castle were surrounded by stone walls. At least, some buildings on the Main Enclosure were built on stone foundations using roof tiles. However, the castle was abandoned after Tadamasa moved to another castle in 1600.
The imaginary drawing of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Gifu Castle MuseumThe imaginary drawing of Mino-Kaneyama Castle, exhibited by Sengoku Yamashiro Museum
Let us feel a water of city and an atmosphere of the castle town.
Features
Walking along Former Outer Moat
The map around the castle
If you want to know what a Water Castle is like, consider walking around Suimon-gawa River, the former Outer Moat. The river still surrounds the northern and western sides of the castle. If you walk from the north to the west along the flow of the river, you can understand how large the castle was in the past. You can also see the ruins of the Tatsunokuchi-mon Gate on the northern side and the ruins of the Takebashiguchi-mon Gate on the western side.
Suimon-gawa RiverThe ruins of the Tatsunokuchi-mon GateThe illustration of the Tatsunokuchi-mon Gate in the past, from the signboard at the siteThe ruins of the Takebashiguchi-mon Gate
In addition, there are the Spring of Ogaki at the northwest corner and the Suito Park at the southwest corner where you can see Ogaki is still a city of water.
The Spring of OgakiThe Suito Park
Walking along Old Mino Road
If you arrive at the Suito Park, you can walk along the old Mino Road as the road still goes on the southern and eastern sides of the castle through the former castle town. The pavement of the road is painted in a different color (beige) from other roads, so you can easily follow it.
The old Mino RoadThe road is painted in a different color from other roads
You will see some traditional items such as an old sweet beans jelly shop, the ruins of Honjin (officially appointed inn) of Ogaki-juku Station on Mino Road and the ruins of Toiyaba (administration office). You can still feel what the castle town was like there.
The elegant roof of the sweet beans jelly shopThe ruins of Honjin (officially appointed inn) of Ogaki-juku StationThe ruins of Toiyaba (administration office)An old rice dracker shop
My Impression
Before the Battle of Sekigahara, there might have been a chance for Mitsunari to defeat Ieyasu. If Mitsunari stayed in Ogaki Castle for longer time, the number of his supporters, including his master Hideyori, could increase. However, I think Ieyasu was much superior to Mitsunari as a general. Ieyasu trapped Mitsunari by wining Mitsunari’s allies like Hideaki Kobayakawa over to Ieyasu’s side. Ieyasu made Mitsunari leave Ogaki Castle by choice. I think Ieyasu learned a lot from his lost in the Battle of Mikatagahara in 1573 when he was young. He was trapped by Shingen Takeda to leave his Hamamatsu Castle by himself and defeated. As a result, he did a similar way in Sekigahara to what he had been done in Mikatagahara.
The statue of Ieyasu Tokugawa at Hamamatsu CastleThe present Hamamatsu CastleThe monument of the Battle of Mikatagahara
How to get There
If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 15 minutes away from Ogaki IC on the Meishin Expressway. There are several parking lots around the park. By public transportation, it takes about 10 minutes on foot from the JR Ogaki Station. To get to Ogaki Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Tokaido Line at Nagoya Station.
