English – ページ 77 – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

148.Hamamatsu Castle Part1

The Castle Ieyasu Tokugawa successfully built

Location and History

Home base of Ieyasu Tokugawa after his independence

Hamamatsu Castle was located in the center of Totoumi Province, which is now Hamamatsu City in the western part of Shizuoka Prefecture. The castle is known for the place where young Ieyasu Tokugawa, who would be the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, lived. This is one of the reasons why the castle is also called “Shusse Castle” which literally means “Success Castle”. The former Hamamatsu Castle was called Hikuma Castle which was built on a hill near the branch of Tenryu-gawa River. It is uncertain who first built it around the 15th Century. In the first 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, the Imagawa Clan, a great warlord which was based in Suruga Province (now the central part of Shizuoka Prefecture) owned the castle.

The range of Totomi Province and the location of the castle

The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ieyasu was originally based in Mikawa Province, the west of Totoumi, and worked under the Imagawa Clan. When the power of Imagawa decreased, Ieyasu got independent and aimed to invade Totoumi Province. In 1568, he succeeded in capturing Hikuma Castle to govern the province. However, this castle was not enough for Ieyasu, as he needed to prepare for possible battles with the Takeda Clan who invaded Suruga Province next to Totoumi. Ieyasu extended the castle to another hill in the west direction, renaming it Hamamatsu Castle. Hamamatsu Castle had several enclosures on the hill, and the old Hikema Castle became part of it. It is thought that these enclosures were made of soil with shingle-roofed buildings in them. This was because Ieyasu still didn’t have advanced techniques and craftsmen for building castles like Azuchi Castle which belonged to Nobunaga Oda, Ieyasu’s ally.

The relief map around the castle

The imaginary drawing of Hamamatsu Castle in Ieyasu’s period

The imaginary drawing of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Gifu Castle Museum

One of Battlefields for Battle of Mikatagahara

The most impressive event for Ieyasu living in Hamamatsu Castle was the Battle of Mikatagahara in 1573. Shingen Takeda, one of the greatest warlords, invaded the territories of Ieyasu and Nobunaga and captured several Ieyasu’s branch castles such as Futamata Castle. Shingen lured Ieyasu in the castle to the field of Mikatagahara by demonstrating his troops around the castle. Ieyasu fell into Shingen’s trap and was totally defeated. He could somehow turn back to Hamamatsu Castle to survive. Shingen’s troops eventually withdrew after he died of disease in the next year. There have been some traditions about Ieyasu’s actions after his defeat. One says Ieyasu made the castle’s gates open when Shingen’s troops pursued. The troops doubted it and they thought it might be a trap, then withdrew. Another says Ieyasu made a fabric bridge over a deep valley called Saigagake and counterattacked Shingen’s troops to make them fall into the valley. However, it is unclear whether they really happened or not.

The portrait of Shingen Takeda, owned by Jimyo-in, in the 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The diorama of Ieyasu’s troops withdrawing from the battlefield. exhibited by the Saigagake Museum

Yoshiharu Horio improves Castle

After Ieyasu was transferred to Edo Castle (located in now Tokyo) by the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyoyomi in 1590, Yoshiharu Horio, who worked under Hideyoshi, governed the castle. He improved the castle by building stone walls and the Main Tower in the Main Tower Enclosure on the top. The remaining stone walls and stone wall base for the tower were built by him. However, it is quite unknown what the Main Tower looked like because there is no record for it. Only some roof tiles and the well for the tower were excavated. Historians speculate the tower might have looked like the remaining Main Tower of Matsue Castle which was built by the Horio Clan after they were transferred from Hamamatsu in 1600. Both stone wall bases for the towers were similar, so the clan might have used the design plans of Hamamatsu Castle when they built Matsue Castle.

The portrait of Yoshiharu Horio, owned by Shunkoin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The imaginary drawing of Hamamatsu Castle in Yoshiharu’s period

Promotional track for hereditary feudal lords

Ieyasu got the power and founded the Tokugawa Shogunate at the beginning of the 17th Century. Since then, Hamamatsu Castle had been owned by nine hereditary feudal lord families during the Edo Period. The lords of the castle were often promoted to important roles of the shogunate such as a shogun’s council of elders. This is another reason the castle is called “the Success Castle”. For example, Tadakuni Mizuno, the lord of Karatsu Castle in the first 19th Century, applied to be the lord of Hamamatsu Castle. As a result, he succeeded to both owning the castle and imposing the Tenpo Reforms as the head of the shogun’s council of elders. As for the castle itself, the main tower had eventually been lost, only the Main Tower Gate remained on the top as the symbol of the castle. The center of it was moved to the Second Enclosure beside the hill, which had the Main Hall for the lord to govern the Hamamatsu Domain around the castle.

The portrait of Tadakuni Mizuno, owned by Tokyo Metropolitan University (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The imaginary drawing of Hamamatsu Castle in the Edo Period

To be continued in “Hamamatsu Castle Part2”

147.Takatenjin Castle Part3

Why Takatenjin Castle is my favorite Mountain Castle

Features

Around Main Route

The Main Route from the south goes up to the Third Enclosure in the eastern ridge. Probably because this route is less steep than the Back route, many fights occurred at this point. However, no one could successfully break this castle by force.

The map around the castle

The ruins of Chakuto Turret which instructed the defenders to prevent enemies from attacking

Later History

After Takatenjin Castle fell, the castle was eventually abandoned. The Takaten Shrine, which had been the guardian of the castle, remained on the top of the mountain. People around the area continued to worship the shrine for a long time. As for the castle ruins, they were designated as a National Historic Site in 1975. The research for the castle have been done since 1998. The ruins have also been developed separately.

The gateway of the Takaten Shrine on the Back Route

My Impression

Takatenjin Castle is my favorite mountain castle in Japan. The reasons for this are listed below.

It was an important point to govern the area around.
The mountain where castle was built on was not so high, that meant the soldiers could run to anywhere in case of emergency.
The castle was not so large, which meant only a few soldiers could protect the castle by themselves.
The slopes of the mountain are all steep or there were many cliffs, meaning enemies couldn’t attack the castle easily.
The view from the top was excellent, that means the defenders could see the situations around the castle very clearly.
In addition, the castle could get enough water. By visiting the castle ruins, I learned what mountain castles were and I realized the Takatenjin Castle was the best one. I’ve never seen any other mountain castles that have these advantages.

The Back Route passing through rough cliffs

The top is all surrounded by steep cliffs

The ditch seen from the Dono-o Enclosure

Looking down the dry moat from the Dono-o Enclosure

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 15 minutes away from Kakegawa IC on the Tomei Expressway. There are parking lots for visitors in front of the Main Route and the Back Route.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Shizutetsu Justline Bus on the Kakegawa-Daito-Hamamatsu Line bound for Hamaoka-Eigyosho or Daito-shisho from Kakegawa Station and get off at the Hijikata bus stop. It takes about 15 minutes on foot from the bus stop to get there.
To get to Kakegawa Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express.

The castle ruins and the parking lot in front of the Back Route

The southern entrance of the castle ruins leading to the Main Route

The parking lot in front of the Mian Route

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Takatenjin Castle Part1”
Back to “Takatenjin Castle Part2”

147.Takatenjin Castle Part2

The Legendary Strength of The Castle

Features

Going to Castle Ruins through steep slope

Today, you can visit the ruins of Takatenjin Castle easily if you have a car. You can park in front of either the Main Route in the south or the Back Route in the north. If you want to get a taste of how tough the castle was, I recommend walking on the Back Route. The route is flat all the way to the foot of the mountain, but it gets very steep on the slope. It goes up and zigzags through rough cliffs for a while. However, when you reach the top, you will see that it is actually flat. After seeing this, you will understand that the natural terrain was more than suitable for the mountain castle.

The map around the castle

The northern entrance of Takatenjin Castle Ruins

Western ridge part

The spot you reached is called the Well Enclosure, which is the connecting point of the eastern and western ridges. The eastern ridge is the older part of the castle, which includes the Kane, Matoba, Main, Gozen, and Third Enclosures. These enclosures were built along natural terrain, which was partly surrounded by earthen walls and paths.

The original path around the Main Enclosure

The Main Enclosure is at the center and it is the highest point of the castle. You can look down vertically at the steep cliffs anywhere and see a view of Fort Hinodake, one of the Six Takatenjin Forts, from the enclosure. The Third Enclosure is located at the easternmost part of the castle, having a fine view. On a clear and sunny day, you can see a great view of Mt. Fuji in the east.

A view of Mt. Fuji from the Third Enclosure

Eastern ridge part

The western ridge is the newer part of the castle which includes the Western, Babadaira, Second, Dono-o, and Seiro Enclosures. The Western Enclosure is the highest point of the ridge where Takaten Shrine currently stands now, so you can see a good view of the Pacific Ocean in the south. The Babadaira Enclosure is below the Western Enclosure and divided by a ditch. Over the Babadaira Enclosure, there is a narrow path. This path is often referred to as “Inumodori” which translates to “Dogs return” meaning “Dogs cannot go through because it’s too tough”.

A view of the Pacific Ocean from the Western Enclosure

The ditch between the Western and Babadaira Enclosures

The Second, Dono-o and Seiro Enclosures are in a line next to the Western Enclosure, which were fortified by the Takeda Clan. This was because other mountains are connected over the Seiro Enclosure, which could have been attacked from this direction. To prevent this from happening, Takeda built a long dry moat along these enclosures and deep ditches dividing them.

The ditch between the Second and Dono-o Enclosures

To be continued in “Takatenjin Castle Part3”
Back to “Takatenjin Castle Part1”