88.Yoshinogari Ruins Part1

One of the first countries in the Yayoi Period

Location and History

Ruins with some features of later Castles

Yoshinogari Ruins were a large-scaled moat settlement in the Kyushu Region. The settlement prospered from around the 4th Century B.C. to around the 3rd Century during the Yayoi Period. People usually do not call the ruins “castle”, but they had some features which are found in Japanese castles later. That’s why the Japan Castle Foundation designated the ruins as one of Japan’s top 100 castles.

The location of the ruins

Until about 3,000 years ago, during the period known as the Jomon Period, Japan had a warmer climate than now and abundant natural food. People at that time basically were able to live by hunting and gathering at the same place for a long time. However, in the late Jomon Period, the climate cooled down, making it difficult for people to earn a living easily. People had to move around to get enough food while coastlines expanded where the offing used to be. It is said these changes encouraged people to start farming on the newly created alluvial plains.

Climate Change and Beginning of Yayoi Period

Sannai-Maruyama Ruins in Aomori Prefecture, one of the representative ruins of the Jomon Period

The situation was similar to overseas, especially, the climate change was also said to have a big impact on the Chinese History such as the Spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period. The social structures and technologies greatly improved during these periods. Some of the new technologies were introduced to the Kyushu Region via the Korean Peninsula sometime from the 10th to 5th Centuries B.C. Among them, there were the three typical items: the paddy cultivation, the use of weapons, and the circular moats. This is recognized as the start of the Yayoi Period according to many historians.

The restored paddy fields and pit houses of the Yayoi Period, in Toro Ruins of Shizuoka Prefecture (licensed by Halowand via Wikimedia Commons)
unearthed bronze swords, exhibited in the Tokyo National Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
one of the restored circular moats in Yoshinogari Ruins

These three items were related to each other. Farming needs socialization, making people live in one settlement. If the people wanted to expand their farms, their territory would collide with another settlement’s territory. This would also cause a conflicts or battles, leading to the use of weapons. Then, they would also need to protect themselves from attacks from others and to prevent their properties from being taken or stolen. As a result, they would surround their settlement by building circular moats with fences. Historians call them Moated Settlements, which is one of the typical features of the Yayoi Period.

The restored Moated Settlement in Yoshinogari Ruins

Appearance of First Countries

Socialization and surviving battles required strong leadership. As time passed, some excellent leaders appeared, and their settlements and territories became larger and larger. They might have been called the first kings with their territories also being called the first countries. In the northern part of the Kyushu Region around the 1st Century, there were several great countries such as the Country of Na, which sent an envoy to China. Yoshinogari was one of the great countries in the region.

The gold seal which Han Dynasty gave to the king of Na Country (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

According to the description of the Gishi-wajin-den — the history of Japan around the 3rd Century, written in China — there was a country called Yamatai governed by a queen. The country was established when many smaller countries made peace and united after they often battled each other. The queen, called Himiko, governed the united countries by making decisions like a shaman. She lived in the palace of the capital, which also had turrets and fences with soldiers to protect it.

Part of the Gishi-wajin-den (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Large-scaled Moat Settlement

Meanwhile, Yoshinogari settlement was at its peak in the same 3rd Century with its an estimated population of about 5,000. The moats surrounding it were built doubled, and their perimeter reached 2.5 km. In fact, Yoshinogari Ruins is the only site ever discovered in Japan which had a set of a palace, turrets and fences like Yamatai Country. However, it is still not quite uncertain where the country was because there are too many possible sites for it. It can be said that so far, Yoshinogari Ruins clearly show us what the countries in the Yayoi Period looked like.

The restored palace and fences in Yoshinogari Ruins
One of the restored turrets in Yoshinogari Ruins

To be continued in “Yoshinogari Ruins Part2”

89.Saga Castle Part3

The functions of the castle changed.

Features

Remaining Outer Moat

If you have time, consider walking to the remaining Outer Moat from the Main Enclosure. If you walk along the edge of the enclosure, you will see the long line of the stone walls. Some of them were recently restored including the stone wall base of the Southwestern Corner Turret. The original appearance of the castle is returning little by little with the restoration. The Outer Moat is still filled with water and is over 50m wide. It can remind us that the castle was originally protected by many water moats and waterways.

The aerial photo around the castle

The long stone walls of the Main Enclosure
The restored stone wall base of the Southwestern Corner Turret
The remaining Outer Moat

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Saga Castle was used as the Saga Prefectural Office. That’s why a battle in the Saga Rebellion occurred there. After the rebellion, the surviving Main Enclosure was used as schools. However, the Main Hall was demolished in 1920 while the residential room for the lord was moved to another park. The remaining Shachi-no-mon Gate was designated as an Important Cultural Property in 1957. In 1989, Saga Prefecture decided to restore the Main Hall as a historical museum. After the excavation and research. The official part of the hall, called Omote, was mainly restored combined with the residential room for the lord which returned to its original position. The Main Hall reopened as the Saga Castle History Museum in 2004.

The old photo of the original Main Hall in the Meiji Era (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The inside of Shachi-no-mon Gate
The Main Hall has become the Saga Castle History Museum
The miniature models of the remaining or restored structures in the Main Enclosure, exhibited by the Saga Castle History Museum

My Impression

Saga Prefecture is trying to show what roles the Saga Domain had in the end of the Edo Period, in the restored Main Hall. There are also other attractions like the stone wall base for the Main Tower. If you compare these structures, you may find the functions of the castle have been changing. The water moats were entirely for defense. The Main Tower added to the castle its authority. The Main Hall was built for governing and residence. They composed the wide variety of functions at Saga Castle.

The Outer Moat for defense
The Main Tower stone wall base showing authority
The Main Hall for governing

How to get There

If you want to visit the ruins by car, it is about 20 minutes away from Saga-Yamato IC on the Nagasaki Expressway.
You can park in the parking lots for visitors in the Main Enclosure.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Saga City Bus on the Sagajo-ato Line from JR Saga Station and get off at the Sagajo-ato bus stop.
To get to Saga Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the limited express from Hakata Station after using the Shinkansen super express or by plane.

The parking lot is over there

Links and References

Saga Castle History Museum

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Saga Castle Part1”
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89.Saga Castle Part2

Its Main Enclosure restored like it was at the end of Edo Period.

Features

Remaining Front Gate of Main Enclosure

Today, the ruins of Saga Castle mostly became the area for the official buildings such as the Saga Prefectural Office. The Outer Moat still surrounds the area, but other water moats, such as the Inner Moat, were reclaimed. The Main Enclosure, which survived the Saga Rebellion, has mainly been developed as a historical park. The front gate of the enclosure, called the Shachi-no-mon, is one of the few remaining castle buildings at the site. When you pass through the gate, you can see several bullet holes from the rebellion on the columns and doors. These are physical signs of the reality of the battle during the rebellion.

The aerial photo around the castle

The remaining front gate of the Main Enclosure
Entering the gate
Are these smalls holes on the column from gun shots during the Saga Rebellion?

Restored Main Hall of Main Enclosure

Inside the gate, The Main Hall, which Naomasa rebuilt, was partly restored recently in its original form. In front of the entrance, there are some actual objects and replicas of the cannons which the Saga Domain imported from the West at the end of the Edo Period. The cannons the domain itself manufactured unfortunately do not remain. If some of them were still in existence, they would definitely have become some of Japan’s historical treasures.

The entrance of the restored Main Hall
One of the imported cannons, exhibited in front of the entrance
The interior of the Main Hall

The interior of the hall is very gorgeous, including the large room with 320 tatami mats. There are also exhibitions introducing the achievements of the domain. For example, the miniature model of the reverberating furnace is exhibited to make visitors easily understand that the domain manufactured iron. At the back area of the hall, the residential room for Naomasa Nabeshima called Gozama, was also restored using the original roof tiles and columns. The panel of his life-sized photo is placed at the same position as he sat, so that visitors can picture how he used the room.

The large room of the Main Hall
The miniature model of the reverberating furnace
the residential room for the lord
The panel of Naomasa’s life-sized photo

Large scale Stone wall base for Main Tower

Near the restored hall, the stone wall base for the Main Tower is still there. The details of the tower are still not clear because it was burned down much earlier without particular records about it. However, you can imagine the tower would have been rather large from the scale of the base. Historians speculate the tower may have looked like that of Kokura Castle based on their scales and tradition. You can climb up to the top of the base where you can enjoy a view of the Main Enclosure, especially the Main Hall.

The stone wall base for the Main Tower
Climbing up to the top of the base
A view of the Main Hall from the top
A view of the base from above

To be continued in “Saga Castle Part3”
Back to “Saga Castle Part1”