112.Kasama Castle Part2

Today, the ruins of Kasama Castle have been convenient for both drivers and hikers. For example, if you drive to the ruins, you can choose either parking at the foot of the mountain before a long walk or parking at the mid slope near the top.

Features

Walking from Foot is recommended

Today, the ruins of Kasama Castle have been convenient for both drivers and hikers. For example, if you drive to the ruins, you can choose either parking at the foot of the mountain before a long walk or parking at the mid slope near the top. However, if you have enough time to visit there, it may be better to take the former route because there are many more attractions of the castle widely spread throughout.

The map around the castle

Therefore, let us start from the parking lot at the foot to reach the top via the forest road to the mid slope for visiting the ruins by walk mentioned earlier in this article. Please be careful of the many cars that might pass your side. There are several hills around the castle ruins, so you will go on the winding road among the hills. The road eventually turns right at a right angle, which is the entrance to the castle ruins. In addition, if you go straight passing though the spot on the narrow path, you will get to the ruins of the northern gateway called Sakao-no-dorui (meaning the earthen walls of Sakao).

The parking lot at the foot of the mountain
The forest road to the castle ruins
If you turn right, you will get to the castle ruins, or you will be at the earthen walls of Sakao if you go straight
The earthen walls of Sakao

Looking at Mysterious Huge Rock and Outer Dry Moats

Going back to the forest road to the castle, you will see a huge rock which partially blocks the road on the left. It is called Daikokuseki (meaning the Rock of Mahakala) which has an interesting folklore as the following. When Shofukuji Temple fought against Tokuzoji Temple but was outnumbered and was at disadvantage, the huge rock near the top suddenly collapsed. The rock crushed the monk soldiers of Tokuzoji side on the narrow path, which resulted in their withdrawal. Since then, the rock has been called the Rock of Mahakala because it looks like the sack Mahalaka has and brought a fortune to the Shofukuji side which was located on the mountain (Mahalaka is the god of wealth in Japan).

Getting close to the rock
Be careful when you pass through the rock

You will next see a large ditch on the left, which is part of the outer dry moats surrounding the whole castle area. That means this is where the entrance of the castle is. You will then walk on the road with a hill on the left and another hill over the valley on the right. They are all the ruins of the forts, so if you were an enemy, you would be attacked from both sides.

The Outer Dry Moats
There was a fort on the hill on the left of the road
There was another fort on the right of the road across the valley

Sennin-Damari Enclosure and One Hundred Quarters Ruins at Mid Slope

You will eventually turn right and go across an earthen bridge over the valley before arriving at the parking lot at the mid slope. It was actually a large enclosure called Sennin-Damari (meaning Accommodating Ten Thousand Soldiers), which was probably used as a military post or barracks.

If you turn right, you will get to Sennin-Damari Enclosure, and there are the ruins of the One Hundred Quarters on the left
The Sennin-Damari Enclosure, seen from the ruins of the One Hundred Quarters
The Sennin-Damari Enclosure (the parking lot at mid slope)

There is also the ruin of the One Hundred Quarters of Shofukuji Temple opposite the enclosure across the forest road, where the temple prospered. However, there are no buildings and structures, but only the signboard and leveled ground with few graves, so it may look like another ruins of the castle’s fort.

The ruin of the One Hundred Quarters
There are few graves remaining

From Main Gate to Main Enclosure

All visitors have to walk from the Sennin-Damari Enclosure to the center after passing a gate built by alternating stone walls. However, you can easily go on the restricted road to the top beside some castle items such as the Main Gate Ruins and partially remaining stone walls.

Every visitor has to walk from the Sennin-Damari Enclosure
The ruins of the Main Gate
You can easily get to the Main Enclosure along the restricted road
The remaining stone walls on the way

You actually have another option to get to the top by walking on a rough path through the original gates. You can first take the stone steps of the Main Gate and pass its Masugata system. Then, you will once meet the restricted road, but you can find other stone steps to the path on the right.

The map around the castle, the red broken line indicates the route through the original gates

Climbing the stone steps of the Main Gate
You will once meet the restricted road
You will find other stone steps to the path on the right

If you go on the path crossing the slope, you will pass beside the Second Enclosure and reach the ruins of the Main Enclosure Gate which are similar to the Main Gate. No matter which way you choose, you will arrive at the same place, the Main Enclosure.

Going on the path crossing the slope
There is the Main Enclosure ahead and the Second Enclosure on the right
Arriving at the ruins of the Main Enclosure Gate
The Masugata system of the Main Enclosure Gate remains maybe better than the Main Gate
In the miniature model of Kasama Castle, the gate in the red circle is the Main Gate and that in the blue circle is the Main Enclosure Gate, I think

To be continued in “Kasama Castle Part3”
Back to “Kasama Castle Part1”

112.笠間城 その2

現在、笠間城跡は車で行く人にとっても、歩いていく人にとっても便利なように整備されています。例えば、車で城跡に行った場合、山麓の駐車場に停めて長距離を歩くこともできますし、頂上に近い中腹に駐車することもできます。

特徴、見どころ

山麓からの歩きがおすすめ

現在、笠間城跡は車で行く人にとっても、歩いていく人にとっても便利なように整備されています。例えば、車で城跡に行った場合、山麓の駐車場に停めて長い距離を歩くこともできますし、頂上に近い中腹に駐車することもできます。ただ、もし現地で十分時間が確保できるのであれば、前者を選択されるのをお勧めします。この城の見どころが広範囲に広がっているからです。

城周辺の地図

したがって、この記事でも先ほど述べた通りに、山麓の駐車場から歩いて中腹にある林道を経由して頂上に至る方法で城跡に向かってみようと思います。歩く際には多くの車が通り過ぎるかもしれませんので、気を付けて下さい。城跡の周りには、いくつもの丘陵があるため、その間を曲がりくねっている道を進んでいきます。そうするうちに道は、右方向に直角に曲がりますが、ここが城跡への入口となります。ちなみに、その道を曲がらずにまっすぐ進み狭い道に入ると、城の北側の関門である「坂尾の土塁」に至ります。

山麓の駐車場
城跡に向かう林道
右に曲がると城跡、まっすぐ行くと坂尾の土塁
坂尾の土塁

不思議な巨石や外郭空堀を見学

城に向かう林道に戻ってみると、左側に道を半ば塞いでいる巨石が見えてきます。この石は「大黒石」と呼ばれていて、次のような面白い逸話が伝わっています。正福寺が徳蔵寺と争い、多勢に無勢で不利になっていたとき、山頂近くにあったこの巨石が突然転がってきたのです。そして、この細道で徳蔵寺方の僧兵たちを押しつぶし、撤退に追い込んだということです。それ以来、この石は大黒石と呼ばれるようになりますが、大黒様が担いでいる袋に似ているとか、山上にあった正福寺側に幸運をもたらしたという所から来ています(実際にはこの石は築城のはるか以前から存在しているようです)。

大黒石が見えてきました
通行には気を付けましょう

次には、左側に大きな堀切が見えます。これは全城域を囲む、外郭の空堀の一部です。つまり、ここは城の入口ということになります。そして、左側には丘陵が、右側には谷を越えたところにもう一つの丘陵がある道を進んでいきます。これらは皆、堡塁の跡であり、もし敵であったなら両側から攻撃を受けることになるでしょう。

外郭の空堀
林道の左側の丘陵には堡塁がありました
林道の右側の谷向こうにも堡塁跡があります

中腹にある千人溜と笠間百坊跡

ずっと進んでいってから右に曲がり、谷にかかる土橋を渡ると、中腹にある駐車場に到着します。ここは実際には千人溜と呼ばれる大きな曲輪(「的場丸」ともいいます)で、恐らくは駐屯地か兵舎のために使われていたと思われます。

右に曲がると千人溜、左側に百坊跡があります
百坊跡から見た千人溜
千人溜(中腹駐車場)

林道を渡った反対側には、正福寺の百坊跡があり、そこが寺が繁栄していた場所でした。しかし今では建物や構造物はなく、説明板と整地された土地に若干の墓地があるだけです。ここも城の堡塁の一つであったようにも見えます。

笠間百坊跡
僅かに墓地が残っています

大手門から本丸へ

全てのビジターは、千人溜からは食い違いの入口を通り過ぎて、中心部まで歩いていくことになります。しかし、頂上まで作業道が通じているので、大手門跡、部分的に残っている石垣などを見ながら、楽に登って行くことができます。

千人溜から先は皆歩きです
大手門跡
作業道を進めば本丸に着きます
途中に残る石垣

しかしここでも頂上に行く別の選択肢があって、荒れた小道となりますが、オリジナルの門跡を通って頂上に行く方法もあります。まず、大手門の石段を上がって、桝形を通り過ぎます。一旦は作業道に合流しますが、右側に別の石段を見つけていただくと、そこから小道に入っていけます。

城中心部の地図、赤破線はオリジナルの門跡を通るルート

大手門の階段を登ります
一旦作業道に合流します
作業道の右側に階段を見つけます

斜面に沿った道を渡っていくと、二の丸の脇を過ぎて、本丸門跡にたどり着きます。ここは大手門と同様の作りとなっています。どちらのルートを選んでも、同じ本丸に到着します。

斜面に沿った小道を進みます
前方が本丸、右側が二の丸
本丸門跡に着きます
大手門より桝形がはっきり残っています
井筒屋の模型では、赤丸が大手門、青丸が本丸門だと思います

「笠間城その3」に続きます。
「笠間城その1」に戻ります。

112.Kasama Castle Part1

Kasama is a local city, located in the central part of Ibaraki Prefecture and the northeastern part of the Kanto Region. It is known for Kasama Inari Shrine and Kasama Pottery, which attract many visitors. However, they became popular after the emergence of Kasama Castle.

Location and History

Tokitomo Kasama, Mysterious General builds Castle

Kasama is a local city, located in the central part of Ibaraki Prefecture and the northeastern part of the Kanto Region. It is known for Kasama Inari Shrine and Kasama Pottery, which attract many visitors. However, they became popular after the emergence of Kasama Castle.

Kasama Castle[/leaflet-marker]

It is uncertain how the castle was first built. The only record available is called Kasamajo-ki (meaning the Record of Kasama Castle), later written during the Edo Period. According to the record, the castle was first built in 1219 during the Kamakura Period by Tokitomo Kasama who was a relative of the Utsunomiya Clan, one of the most powerful clans in the region. There was the Shofukuji Temple on Sashiro-yama Mountain where Kasama Castle would be built. The temple prospered on the mountain with the One Hundred Quarters and had many monk soldiers to protect it. A fight broke out with a rival temple called Tokuzoji Temple and they were outnumbered, so it asked the Utsunomiya Clan for help. Tokitomo was sent by the clan and defeated the Tokuzoji Temple. He even banished the Shotokuji Temple from the mountain and built the Kasama Castle.

Sashiro-yama Mountain
The current Shofukuji Temple at the foot of the mountain
The signpost of the One Hundred Quarters Ruins

However, historians say, using fragments from other records, Tokitomo might have actually not been so radical. He was not only a warrior but also a medium class noble which other warriors rarely became. He was also highly educated and famous as a poet. There are also several remaining Buddha statues and sutras he donated to temples, which proved he was rich and religious. Overall, Tokitomo might have built the castle in a more coordinated manner. As a result, the Kasama Clan governed the castle and the area around for over 300 years until the Sengoku Period. The castle was thought to be a simple mountain castle, made of soil.

The Buddha statue Tokitomo donated to a local temple called Ishidera, quoted from the Kasama City Website
Rengeoin Temple at Kyoto where Tokitomo donated two other Buddha statues  (licensed by Akonnchiroll via Wikimedia Commons)

Satonari Gamo renovates Castle

The situation changed in the end of the 16th Century during the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi. The Kasama Clan declined and the Utsunomiya Clan was fired by Hideyoshi. Kasama Castle was followed by Satonari Gamo, a senior vassal of the Gamo Clan in 1598. The Gamo Clan served Hideyoshi for a long time and became one of the greatest lords in Japan. The clan also built or improved many castles like Matsusaka and Wakamatsu by building advanced items, such as high stone walls and Main Towers. The lord of the clan, Hideyuki Gamo lived in Utsunomiya Castle and one of his branch castles was Kasama Castle. Satonari improved Kasama Castle using the techniques and resources that the clan used. The Main Tower was built on the top of mountain with three-tier stone walls, called the Main Tower Enclosure. The Main and Second Enclosures were developed below the top and the route from the Main Gate to the top through these enclosures was built. Other stone walls were constructed along the route and each gate and enclosure was protected by an altered entrance or the Masugata system which refers to a square defensive space in the gate. The lord of the castle lived in the Main Hall in the Main Enclosure which also had several other turrets.

The ruins of Matsusaka Castle
Wakamatsu Castle
The miniature model of Kasama Castle, exhibited by Kasama History Exchange Center “Izutsuya”

Satonari developed Kasama Castle more in 1600 during a decisive battle when all the lords of Japan joined the Eastern Alliance or the Western Alliance. He joined the Eastern Alliance while the Satake Clan at Mito Castle in the neighboring area to the east of Kasama joined the Western Alliance. That’s why he needed to prepare to avoid the Satake Clan from invading. It is thought that Satonari built forts on three hills around the mountain and deep dry moats surrounding all the castle and the forts. The Eastern Alliance, which would be the Tokugawa Shogunate, finally won after nothing happened to Kasama Castle fortunately.

The ruins of Mito Castle
The dry moats surrounding the castle are put on the miniature model above as well
The remaining dry moats at the site

Other Clans like Asano and Makino follow Castle

The shogunate transferred the Gamo Clan to another in 1601. Since then, Kasama Castle and the area around it were considered as the Kasama Domain, but the lord’s clan changed 8 times. A major event for the castle happened when the Asano Clan governed the domain between 1622 and 1645. The second lord, Naganao Asano built suburban residences, in fact a new Main Hall, at the foot of the mountain, for the convenience of the government. An episode about it was that the residences were very large and surrounded by earthen walls and white mud walls, which looked like a new castle that the shogunate banned from being built. Naganao conveted the mud walls to hedge fences to hide and not to make it look like a castle before the shogunate heard about it. He was transferred to Ako Castle in 1645 and renovated it, so he seemed to like castle constructions. His grandchild was Naganori Asano who would cause the Ako Incident which is one of the most popular events of Japanese history.

The portrait of Naganao Asano, owned by Kagakuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of the suburban residences
The ruins of Ako Castle

The last clan to rule the Kasama Domain was the Makino Clan between 1747 and 1871, the longest and most stable period among the others. The Kasama Pottery started to be made and developed with the help from the domain during this period. In addition, the Kasama Inari Shrine also became popular during the Edo Period, which was visited by several clans governing the domain.

Part of the Illustration of Kasama Castle in Hitachi Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan
Kasama Potteries in the Kasama Pottery Cooperative Selling Center
The Worship Hall of Kasama Inari Shrine  (licensed by On-chan via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Kasama Castle Part2”