Okayama Castle was still located in Okayama City which is the prefectural capital of Okayama Prefecture. Its main tower was nicknamed as “Ujo” which means “Crow Castle” because of its black colored walls. Although the original main tower was unfortunately burned down by the Okayama Great Air Raid on the 29th of June in 1945, it was apparently fully restored in 1966. There is the Okayama Korakuen Garden across the river from the castle, which is called one of Japan’s three most beautiful gardens. Therefore, the area around is a very popular tourist spot. The area was created not for a short time but for a long time between three different lord families. They are the Ukita Clan which built the castle, the Kobayakawa Clan which modernized it, and finally the Ikeda Clan which completed it. As a result, the castle became the origin of the city. This article will explain its story from the beginning to its completion.
Was Naoie Ukita an Accomplished Villain?
Naoie Ukita became a great warlord around the current Okayama Prefecture in his life during the Sengoku Period. However, he wored so hard to achieve this that he has been labeled “an accomplished villain” or “One of the three great villains” in the period (the other two were Dosan Saito and Hisahide Matsunaga”). The bad reputation started from the first Edo Period. Hoan Oze, a writer at that time, described it in his “Hoan Taikoki” which is a popular biography of Hideyoshi Toyotomi. He wrote as followed:
“A person, who has a good talent, but uses it for his own benefit against justice, would eventually destroy himself.”
He mentioned Naoie in the example above. Hoan was devoted to Confucianism, therefore, he seemed to look back at the Sengoku Period to make a consequence theory. As a reality, most warlords were also something like Naoie which Hoan wrote, but as a result, most people during the peaceful Edo Period accepted Hoan’s theory. The three villain’s family’s power declined then because of financial reasons; therefore, they lost the ability to complain about it.
The theory was accelerated by the Bizen Gunki, a war chronicle which was written during the late Edo Period. This book is one of the few remaining records which say Naoie’s early days as followed:
“Naoie and his family were attacked by an enemy but managed to escape from their castle and wandered when he was only a little child. After he grew up, he served the Uragami Clan and avenged the enemy. He also got promoted because of his talent. However, he worked hard for this. For example, he even killed his relatives even they were his son-in-laws. He used any means necessary such as tricks, assassinations and the use of poison. He eventually defeated his master to become a great warlord.”
The book makes us believe that Noaie was really an accomplished villain. However, recent studies are confirming these descriptions one by one. So far, some of them are false (for example, one of the murders was not actually committed by Naoie). The work is incomplete and vague. If more evidence comes out in the future, Naoie might actually be seen as a hero rather than a villain. Even though many of the descriptions are confirmed, they may have been common ways for warlords to survive. In addition, the hierarchical system was very chaotic and unstable during the Sengoku Period. It was often revised and changed because of the power struggle that often plagued the Senoku Period, unlike the peaceful Edo Period.
Naoie’s last home was Okayama which was near the Seto Inland Sea to the south at that time. The location was good for land and water transportation. It was on the delta of estuary of Asahigawa River which flowed into the sea. The delta had three hills, one of which was called Ishiyama (which means stone mountain), where Naoie built the main enclosure of the castle. Another one was called Okayama, which was the origin of the castle and the current city’s name. The scale of the castle was still small. However, Naoie expected that the castle and town would eventually prosper.
After Nitakayama Castle was abandoned, its ruins were used as a place for the practices of the mountain priests. That’s why there are stone buddha statues and monuments they built on the top of the mountain.
Features
Unique Final Enclosure
Tsume-no-maru (meaning the final enclosure) is next to the main enclosure to the southeast. It is also the top of the mountain, where you can enjoy great views of the surrounding area, such as Takayama Castle Ruins, Nuta River, and even Seto Inland Sea. It is also a more interesting place than only the top area. It is the rockiest and steepest area of this mountain. Furthermore, it has lots of stone buddha statues and monuments which mountain priests built. That’s why this site has become unique.
The map around the castle
Well Enclosure, Lifeline of Castle
Tsurii-no-dan (meaning the well enclosure) is next to the main enclosure to the north. You can go there from the back gate of the main enclosure by walking down another Masugata system. This Masugata is different. It is called the inter type which is highly improved than that of the main gate (the outer type). It also still has clearly remaining earthen walls which form its square shape.
Tsurii-no-dan Enclosure is lower than others, like a valley, which still has six large well ruins. It was very important for the castle not only to be besieged for a long time, but also to be able to live in.
Later History
After Nitakayama Castle was abandoned, its ruins were used as a place for the practices of the mountain priests. That’s why you saw the stone buddha statues and monuments on the top they built. They also built chain fields on the steepest route to the top which experienced climbers still use today. However, general visitors shouldn’t use it. As for the castle ruins, they were designated as National Historic Sites with Mihara and Takayama Castles in 1957.
My Impression
Mihara Castle was the final castle of Takakage Kobayakawa. However, I’m not quite sure what the castle looked like when he lived there because it was greatly improved by Fukushima and Asano Clans after Takakage died. Therefore, we can’t find how and where the huge stones from Nitakayama Castle were used in Mihara Castle. That means the ruins of Nitakayama Castle are valuable to see the legacies of Takakage’s period. As for myself, I would like to visit the ruins of Takayama Castle next to Nitakayama Castle someday.
How to get There
If you want to visit there by car, it is about a 4km drive away from Hongo IC on the Sanyo Expressway. There is a parking lot for visitors near the entrance of the hiking course.
By public transportation, it takes about 25 minutes on foot from JR Hongo Station. After you get out of the station, turn right and go along the street in front of the station. Then, turn left at the first intersection, and the street leads to a bridge over the Nuta River while it follows a winding road. It may be better for you to walk the sidewalk on the left because the next intersection has a crosswalk only on this side.
If you walk across it, you will go on the bridge seeing a good view of Nitakayama and Takayama Mountains on the right. After that, turn right, go across another crosswalk and go on a path on the bank beside the river towards the mountains. This path will split into two, but eventually they will meet in front of a shrine. You will eventually arrive at the entrance of the hiking course.
From Tokyo or Osaka to the station: get Sanyo Shinkansen bullet train and transfer to the Sanyo Line at Mihara Station.