173.Nitakayama Castle Part2

Today, the ruins of Nitakayama Castle have been well developed for visitors as a hiking course. The course is the same or similar to the original main route of the castle. If you go on a path from the entrance of the route, you will find the path going beside a ridge on the right.

Features

Defensive system using Natural Terrain

Today, the ruins of Nitakayama Castle have been well developed for visitors as a hiking course. The course is the same or similar to the original main route of the castle. If you go on a path from the entrance of the route, you will find the path going beside a ridge on the right. There is a shrine called Kojinsha on the ridge, but it was said to be a barbican enclosure to protect the route from enemies.

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Main Route Entrance
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The map around the castle

The entrance of the main route
The route goes beside the ridge on the right
The Kojinsha Shrine on the ridge

After you see a large direction board, you will continue to walk the route beside another ridge on the left. The ridge was used as Kane-no-dan (meaning the bell enclosure) to control the route. This enclosure was said to be one of the oldest parts in the castle, which might have been used as a branch of Takayama Castle, the former home of the Kobayakawa Clan.

The direction board on the way
The bell enclosure is on the ridge on the left
The bell enclosure
The bell enclosure on the location map in the direction board, marked by the red circle

The route next goes on a bridge over a river on the valley, to another ridge. The bridge might have been destroyed when a battle happened. The route goes beside the three-tiered ridge on the right, which were protected by guard houses similar to barracks. As you saw so far, the route was built strongly by using only natural terrain.

The road goes over the river on the valley
The ruins of the guard houses are on the right
The ruins of the guard houses
The guard house ruins on the location map in the direction board, marked by the red circle

Takakage Kobayakawa hosted his father there

You will soon reach a spacious area on the middle of the mountain, called “Kyoshinji-Temple Ruins”. This temple was built in 1577 by Takakage Kobayakawa, the lord of the castle, to pray for the repose of his father, Motonari’s soul after his death. The temple was moved to another place near Mihara Castle after Nitakayama Castle was abandoned. You can still see lots of fragments of roof tiles and some remaining stones or rocks on the ground, which the temple left. In addition, the record of Motonari’s stay in this castle in 1561 says that there was a temple in the castle, where Takakage’s brother, Takamoto stayed in, and which had the same or similar name as the one mentioned above. Therefore, Historians speculate that there was also the Kaisho building, where their ceremonies were held, in this site at that time.

The ruins of Kyoshinji Temple
You can see lots of fragments of roof tiles
Some stones or rocks, used for the temple, remain
The Kyoshinji Temple Ruins on the location map in the direction board, marked by the red circle

You can go further to the top area of the castle via a zigzagged path. You will eventually be at Naka-no-maru (meaning the central enclosure) which is placed between the main enclosure on the right (or the east) and the western enclosure on the left (or the west). This enclosure seemed to have been a pivot point of the castle. The western enclosure was built to monitor and control another route to the castle from this direction. This route is gentler than the main route you used, so many artificial vertical moats were built on the slope to prevent enemies from invading the castle easily. However, you still need to hire a guide to see them clearly because the western area has still not been developed for general visitors.

The central enclosure
The western enclosure
The central enclosure on the location map in the direction board, marked by the red circle

Main Enclosure with few remaining Stone Walls

You will finally walk up to the main enclosure which was surrounded by stone walls using huge stones or rocks. Most of them were removed and brought to Mihara Castle when Nitakayama Castle was abandoned. However, you can still see a few remaining stone walls on its base, so you may imagine what the original stone walls looked like. The entrance of the enclosure has been built as a defensive square space, called Masugata, where the main gate building was also constructed. It was said that the building was moved to the current Koshinji Temple (now called Sokoji) as its gate. The inside of the main enclosure is an empty space, where only stone foundations remain at its corner. These foundations were probably used for the main hall or the pavilion where Takakage hosted his father.

Going to the main enclosure
The few remaining stone walls on the base
Walking up to the entrance of the main enclosure
The entrance seen from the inside, the square shape of the entrance slightly remains
The stone foundations in the main enclosure

To be continued in “Nitakayama Castle Part3”
Back to “Nitakayama Castle Part1”

173.新高山城 その2

現在、新高山城跡はビジター向けにハイキングコースとしてよく整備されています。城のオリジナルの大手道と同じか似たルートのようです。大手道入口から小道に入っていくと、右側にある峰に沿って進んでいきます。

特徴、見どころ

自然の地形を生かした防御システム

現在、新高山城跡はビジター向けにハイキングコースとしてよく整備されています。城のオリジナルの大手道と同じか似たルートのようです。大手道入口から小道に入っていくと、右側にある峰に沿って進んでいきます。この峰の上には荒神社(こうじんしゃ)という神社がありますが、かつては敵から大手道を防御するための出丸であったと言われています。

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大手道入口
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
城周辺の地図

大手道入口
右側の峰に沿って進みます
峰の上の荒神社

道に戻ると大きな案内板があり、大手道はそこから左側にある別の峰に沿って進んでいきます。この峰は、鐘の段という曲輪として使われていて、大手道をコントロールしていました。この曲輪はこの城では最も古い部分の一つと言われていて、小早川氏の以前の本拠であった高山城の支城として使われていたかもしれない場所です。

途中にある案内板
左側が鐘の段
鐘の段
案内図における鐘の段の位置(赤丸内)

大手道は次には谷沿いの川にかかった橋を渡り、また別の峰の方に移動します。かつてここにあった橋は、戦いが始まれば意図的に落とされたことでしょう。道は今度は右側にある三段構造となっている峰沿いに進みます。ここにはかつて守衛のための番所があって、兵舎のような建物があったと思われます。ここまで見た限りでは、大手道は自然の地形を生かして、強固に守られていたことがわかります。

谷川を渡って進みます
右側が番所跡
番所があった場所
案内図における番所跡の位置(赤丸内)

小早川隆景が父親をもてなした場所

そうするうちに、山の中腹にある「匡真寺(きょうしんじ)跡」と呼ばれる広々とした場所に至ります。この寺は1577年に、城主の小早川隆景によって、父親の元就の死後、その菩提を弔うために建築されました。新高山城が廃城となった後は、三原城に近い場所に移されました。地面の上には寺に由来すると思われる多くの瓦の破片や、一部だけ残っている石や岩が見えます。補足すると、1561年の元就が城に滞在した記録によれば、城には隆景の兄、隆元が宿泊した寺があり、先ほど述べた「匡真寺」と同じか似たような名前でした(「巨真寺」または「栖真寺」と記載されています)。よって歴史家は、儀式が開かれた会所の建物も、当時この場所にあったと推測しています。

匡真寺跡
瓦の破片が散乱しています
石垣の一部や加工された岩が残っています
案内図における匡真寺跡の位置(赤丸内)

更に進んでいくと、ジグザグの道を経由して城の頂上部に近づいていきます。やがて、右側(東側)ある本丸と左側(西側)にある西の丸に挟まれた、中の丸に着きます。この曲輪は、城の要の場所であったようです。西の丸は、この方向から城に向かうもう一つのルートを監視し、コントロールするために築かれました。このルートはこれまで登ってきた大手道よりはなだらかです。よってその斜面には多くの竪堀が作られ、敵が城を容易に攻められないようになっていました。ところが、これら西の丸周りの史跡を見るにはガイドをお願いする必要があります。この辺りはまだ一般のビジター向けには整備されていないからです。

中の丸
西の丸
案内図における中の丸の位置(赤丸内)

石垣が一部残る本丸

ついに本丸に向かって登っていきます。本丸は、大きな石や岩によって築かれた石垣によって囲まれていましたが、ほとんどは新高山城が廃城となったときに撤去され、三原城に持ち去られました。しかし、足下の部分にはいくらか残っている石垣を見ることができます。オリジナルの石垣がどんなだったか想像はできるかもしれません。本丸の入口は、桝形と呼ばれる四角い防御のためのスペースとなっています。かつては大手門の建物もありました。この大手門は、移転した匡真寺(現在は宗光寺という名前になっています)に移築され、寺の山門になったと言われています。本丸の内部は何もありませんが、角の方に礎石群が残っています。これは恐らく、御殿か、隆景が父親をもてなした別亭の基礎として使われたのではないかと思われます。

本丸に向かいます
足下にのみ残る崩れた石垣
入口に向け登っていきます
内部から見た桝形、わずかにその形が残っています
本丸内部に残る礎石群

「新高山城その3」に続きます。
「新高山城その1」に戻ります。

173.Nitakayama Castle Part1

Ni-takayama Mountain, where Nitakayama Castle was built, is located on the western riverside of Nuta River while there is another mountain called Takayama across the river. The Kobayakawa Clan fist built their castle on Takayama, not on Ni-takayama. Takakage Kobayakawa who was its lord during the Sengoku Period moved his clan’s home to Ni-takayama.

Location and History

Kobayakawa Clan first builds Castle on Takayama Mountain

Nitakayama Castle was built and used by a great warlord, Takakage Kobayakawa on Ni-takayama Mountain along Nuta River in modern day Mihara City, Hiroshima Prefecture. The Ni-takayama (meaning the new high mountain, 198m above the sea level) is located on the western riverside of Nuta River while there is another mountain called Takayama (the high mountain, 190m high) across the river. These make a good contrast binding the river, so they are sometimes called Osu-takayama (the male mountain) as Ni-takayama and Mesu-takayama (the female mountain) as Takayama. The reason why Ni-takayama is called “male” seems to be because it is steeper than the other called “female”. In fact, the Kobayakawa Clan, Takakage’s ancestors fist built their castle on Takayama Mountain, not on Ni-takayama. Takakage moved his clan’s home to Ni-takayama for various reasons.

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Nitakayama Castle
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The range of Mihara City and the location of the castles

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Nitakayama Castle(Male-Takayama Mountain)
Leaflet|国土地理院
The relief map around the castle

The Kobayakawa Clan originally came from the Kanto Region when they served the Kamakura Shogunate during the 13th Century. The Shogunate gave them Nuta Manor after it defeated the Heike Family and Takehara Manor after the Jokyu War due to their contributions to the shogunate. The clan was eventually split into two, the Nuta-Kabayakawa Clan and the Takehara-Kobayakawa Clan. Takayama Castle was built by the Nuta-Kobayakawa Clan on the Takayama Mountain as their home, but it’s not known when it was built. Both clans sometimes were in opposition of each other but usually they cooperated with each other to increase their power. They gained the force of the warriors who could battle in Geiyo Islands, which would be called Kobayakawa Navy. Their relatives became their senior vassal families, such as the Mukunashi Clan for the Nuta-Kobayakawa Clan, to support their lords.

The family crest of the Kobayakawa Clan, called “HIdari-Mitsudomoe” (licensed by BraneJ via Wikimedia Commons)

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Kimura Castle
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The location of Kimura Castle, the home of the Takehara-Kobayakawa Clan

However, the situation became worse in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period when many battles happened. Their province, called Aki (the western part of Hiroshima Pref.), was divided by about 30 small lords like the Kobayakawa Clans at that time. That’s why it was targeted by other great warlords, such as the Ouchi Clan from the west and the Amago Clan from the north. For example, Takayama Castle was temporarily occupied by the Ouchi Clan in 1539 and was attacked by the Amago Clan in 1543. In addition, the lords of both Kobayakawa Clans all died young which caused a lot of crisis for the clans.

The portrait of Yoshitaka Ouchi, the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Ryufukuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Haruhisa Amago, the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Yamaguchi Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Takakage Kobayakawa coming from Mori Clan builds Nitakayama Castle

Motonari Mori, who would become the greatest warlord in the Chugoku Region, came out as a savior (or a fund raiser for someone). He had also been a small lord of the province but eventually became the leader of the small lords. In 1543, Motonari had his son, Takakage adopted by the Takehara-Kobayakawa Clan with no successor. He also consulted with the senior vassals of the Nuta-Kobayakaya Clan to make Takakage the successor of the clan as well. In 1552, they prohibited the current young and blind lord from taking over the clan. As a result, Takakage combined both Kobayakawa Clans. The first thing he did after the unification was to leave Takayama Castle and build Nitakayama Castle nearby.

The portrait of Motonari Mori, owned by Mori Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Takakage Kobayakawa, owned by Beisanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The reasons why he did so are thought as the following; First, moving their castle would radically change the public sentiment. It would also make the retainers gather around the castle to live, which could establish a new hierarchy for Takakage. Second, the mountain, where Nitakayama Castle was built, was steeper and rockier than that of Takayama Castle (that’s why the mountains are also called “male” and “female”.), so it would be stronger. Finally, the foot of the mountain was along the river, which would be convenient for the Kobayakawa Clan to use for water transportation on the Nuta River to Seto Inland Sea.

Nitakayama Mountain on the left and Takayama Mountain on the right, seen from the riverside of the Nuta River

Castle works as Cultural Center as well

A record of the clan says Motonari stayed in Nitakayama Castle for 10 days in 1561. Takakage invited his father to celebrate becoming the governor of Mutsu Province in 1560. They held ceremonies and parties with their retainers, families and servants in the castle during that time. According to the record, there was a building used for hosting guests, called “Kaisho”, on the middle slope of the mountain. They enjoyed seeing “Noh” plays from its reception room and played “Kemari” football at its garden. Historians speculate that there was also a public ceremony hall, called “Shuden”, and kitchens, which were usually a set with the Kaisho building at that time. Motonari and Takakage also joined a Renga poem party at a pavilion on the top. Takakage also held a reading party of Taiheiki historical epic and a tea ceremony. That meant the castle had a library and a tearoom. Overall, the site was not only a castle for battles, but also a cultural center of the surrounding area.

The ruins of Koshinji Temple Ruins, which once had the Kaisho building, at the middle slope of Nitakayama Mountain

Takakage was not only a son of a great father, but also a great warlord himself. After Motonari died, he continued supporting his parents’ home, the Mori Clan to survive during the unification of Japan by Hideyoshi Toyotomi. Hideyoshi relied on Takakage and his Kobayakawa Navy to complete his unification and his attempt to invade China and Korea. Takakage finally became an independent lord with large territories and was a member of Counsel of Five Elders under Hideyoshi’s government. Meanwhile, he built Mihara Castle in the estuary of the Nuta River as a naval base. As time passed, the castle continued growing. When he retired in 1596, he set Mihara Castle as his home while Nitakayama Castle was eventually abandoned. Its waste materials, such as those of stone walls, were brought over and reused for Mihara Castle.

The ruins of Mihara Castle
The current Nitakayama Mountain

To be continued in “Nitakayama Castle Part2”

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