72.Yoshida-Koriyama Castle Part2

You can realize the Mori Clan’s long history by walking along the tour route.

Later History

After Yoshida-Koriyama Castle was abandoned, the Asano Clan managed to own its area during the Edo Period. This was because the Mori Clan’s territory had been reduced due to the their lost in the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. The Asano Clan destroyed the stone walls of the castle after the Shimabara Rebellion in 1637. The Tokugawa Shogunate ordered the lords in western Japan to do it so that even abandoned castles would not be reused by other rebels.

The destroyed stone walls of the Third Enclosure

By contrast, the grave of Motonari Mori, which was built at part of the castle by his grandchild, Terumoto Mori, has been maintained. The Asano Clan allowed the lord and warriors of the Choshu Domain by the Mori Clan to pay a visit to the grave. As a result, warriors of other domains also visited it as the holy spot for a great warlord. After the Meiji Restoration, the grave was developed further, gathering the graves of other ancestors of the Mori Clan probably because the Choshu Domain was one of the victorious clans of the restoration. The castle ruins have been designated as a National Historic Site since 1940.

The grave of Motonari Mori in the castle

Features

Going to Entrance of Castle Ruins

Today, if you drive to the area around the ruins of Yoshida-Koriyama Castle, you will find some names of the local area like Katsura and Fukuhara. They are the origins of the Mori Clan’s senior vassals until the end of the Edo Period. History fans might be excited to just see them.

The map around Yoshida Town, Akitakada City

There is the tour route which is recommended by officials. Its starting point is the shrine gateway of Motonari’s grave, beside the parking lot at the foot of the mountain. If you walk along the approach towards the grave for a while, you will reach it. This may be the most developed place in the castle ruins as the holy spot. There is also Toshunji Temple Ruins which was established by Terumoto there and eventually moved to Hiroshima, Hagi and Yamaguchi with the lords of the Mori Clan.

The map around the castle

The shrine gateway of Motonari’s grave
The approach towards the grave
The grave of Motonari
Toshunji Temple Ruins

Trail on Ridge of Mountain

You can climb the trail to the top of the mountain from there, on one of its six ridges. It is basically a long trek which takes about 30 minutes to reach the top. You may find some ditches dividing the enclosures or wild animals like deer. Be careful not to provoke them.

The starting point of the trail
The trail goes on the ridge
A ditch dividing the enclosures
Meeting with a deer

Enclosures on Top of Mountain

You will eventually arrive at the ruins of Okurayashiki or the Storehouses below the top. The top consists of three tiered enclosures of the Main, Second and Third. The six ridges spread from the top which also have so many enclosures.

The ruins of the Storehouses
The topographical map of the mountain top, from the signboard at the site, adding the red letters

You will find countless stones collapsed which lie around the Storehouses Ruins. It is thought that this was caused by the Asano Clan following the shogunate’s instruction after the Shimabara Rebellion. These stones have been left there for nearly 400 years. However, if you walk around the wall of the Third Enclosure, you will notice some stone walls remaining as they were.

The collapsed stones lying around the Storehouses Ruins
Some remaining stone walls of the Third Enclosure

You can also walk around some enclosures on the six ridges such as Tsurii or the Deep Well, Umaya or the Stable, and Kamaya or the Kitchen. There will be a sign warning visitors not to enter that unstable area. Please make you don’t enter that area since it’s very unstable and could cause the land to collapse. Watch your steps as they are reclaiming to nature.

The Deep Well Enclosure
The Stable Enclosure
The ridge over the Stable Enclosure
The Kitchen Enclosure
Sone ridges are not allowed to enter as of October 2022

To be continued in “Yoshida-Koriyama Castle Part3”
Back to “Yoshida-Koriyama Castle Part1”

72.吉田郡山城 その2

城跡を巡ってみれば、毛利氏の長い歴史を実感できます。

その後

吉田郡山城が廃城となった後、浅野氏が江戸時代を通じて城があった地域を領有していました。1600年の関ヶ原の戦いの敗戦により、毛利氏の領地が大幅に削減されてしまったからです。浅野氏は、1637年に起こった島原の乱の後、城の石垣を破壊しました。徳川幕府が西日本の大名に対して、廃城となった城であっても反乱者に利用されないように命じたからです。

崩された三の丸の石垣

対照的に、孫の毛利輝元によって城の一部分に作られた毛利元就の墓所は、維持されていました。浅野氏は、毛利氏の長州藩の領主や藩士たちが元就の墓所に墓参りすることを許していました。結果的に、他の藩の藩士たちも偉大な戦国大名の聖地として同じように元就の墓所を訪れるようになりました。明治維新後、墓所は毛利氏の他の先祖たちの墓も集められ拡張されました。恐らく長州藩が、明治維新における勝者であったからできたことだろうと思われます。城跡は、1940年以来、国の史跡に指定されています。

城内にある毛利元就の墓所

特徴、見どころ

城跡入口へ

もし吉田郡山城跡周辺を車で回ってみると、この地には「桂」や「福原」などの地名が今でも残っていることに気付かれるかもしれません。これらの地名は、江戸時代末期まで毛利氏の重臣であった桂氏や福原氏などの出身地であることを示しています。歴史ファンの方はそれを見ただけでもわくわくするかもしれません。

安芸高田市吉田町周辺の地図

吉田郡山城跡を巡るには、推奨ルート(現地案内図に記載)が設定されています。そのスタート地点は、山麓にある駐車場傍の、元就の墓所の入口となる鳥居です。その鳥居から墓所向かう参道をしばらく歩いて行くと墓所に着きます。ここは城跡の中では聖地としてもっとも整備されている場所かもしれません。ここには洞春寺(どうしゅんじ)跡もあります。この寺は輝元によって開創されましたが、その後の毛利氏の領主とともに広島、萩、そして山口に移っていきました。

城周辺の地図

元就の墓所の入口
元就の墓所への参道
元就の墓所
洞春寺跡

峰上の登山道

そこから、山頂に向かう登山道を登っていきます。この登山道は山の6つの嶺のうちの一つの上を通っています。山頂に着くまで約30分の比較的長いトレッキングになります。その途中では、山にあった曲輪を分ける堀切や、ときには鹿のような野生動物も見かけるかもしれません。野生動物は刺激しないようにしましょう。

登山道の入口
嶺上を進む登山道
曲輪を分ける堀切
シカに遭遇

頂上部分に残る曲輪群

そのうちに、頂上下にある御蔵屋敷跡(おくらやしきあと)に着きます。頂上部分は、本丸、二の丸、三の丸の三段になった曲輪群から構成されています。頂上から6つの嶺が放射状に伸びていて、それらにも数多くの曲輪があります。

御蔵屋敷跡
山頂部分の地形図、現地説明板より

御蔵屋敷跡周辺には、数えきれない程の崩れた石が散らばっています。これらは島原の乱の後に幕府の指導のもとに、浅野氏によって石垣が破壊された状態であると考えられています。だとすると、これらの石は400年近くそのままになっていることになります。しかし、三の丸の壁面の周りを歩いてみると、石垣がいくらか作られた当時のまま残っていることにも気付くでしょう。

散らばっている石
部分的に残っている三の丸の石垣

また、6つの嶺にある曲輪(釣井(つりい)の壇、厩(うまや)の壇、釜屋の壇など)を巡ってみることもできます。但し、危険箇所として立ち入りが禁止されている場所もあります。そこは、登山道が崩落しているような場所ですので、立ち入らないようにしましょう。立ち入りができる場所も草木が茂っていたりしますので、足元に気を付けてください。

釣井の壇にある井戸
厩の壇
厩の壇の先に続く峰
釜屋の壇
一部の嶺は立ち入り禁止になっています(2023年10月時点)

「吉田郡山城その3」に続きます。
「吉田郡山城その1」に戻ります。

72.Yoshida-Koriyama Castle Part1

The castle grew as Motonari Mori got more power.

Location and History

Home Base of Generations of Mori Clan

Yoshida-Koriyama Castle was located in Aki Province which is modern day the western part of Hiroshima Prefecture. It was also located in a central mountainous area in the Chugoku Region. It started off as a small mountain castle on one ridge of Koriyama Mountain, which was built by a local lord of the Mori Clan sometime in the Middle Ages. The lord of the clan in the Sengoku Period, Motonari Mori developed the castle covering the whole mountain as he governed almost all the region, he became a great warlord.

The range of Aki Province and the location of the castle

The Mori Clan had been basically a typical local lord which governed Yoshida manor since the 13th Century. As time passed by, their relatives became the clan’s senior vassals such as the Fukuhara and Katsura Clans. Even in the beginning of the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, the lord of the clan lived in the small Yoshida-Koriyama Castle while the senior vassals lived in their own castles or halls. On the other hand, they had a strong allegiance. This was one of the reasons why they were finally successful in the region.

The relief map around the castle, the home bases of the senior vassals were in different places from the castle

Motonari has many Difficulties

When Motonari first entered Yoshida-Koriyama Castle to become the lord of the clan in 1524, the situation was already bad. The previous lords all died young, as a result, the power of the clan continued to decrease. In addition, the Aki Province was divided by about 30 small local lords like Motonari. Meanwhile, strong warlords were growing in power as the Ouchi Clan in Suo Province, west of Aki, and the Aamago Clan in Izumo Province, north of Aki. The local lords in Aki had to support either clan, otherwise, they would have been defeated. The Mori Clan supported the Amago Clan, however, the clan tried to remove Motonari from being the successor and supported another person whom they can easily control. However, Motonari somehow survived with his senior vassals’ support.

The portrait of Motonari Mori, owned by Mori Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Tsunehisa Amago, the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Doukouji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To survive under these difficult situations, Motonari acted like a mediator, not a ruler, in his province. For example, he proposed making a peace treaty with the competitive Shishido Clan in his province by marrying his daughter with the clan’s successor. The clan eventually became another senior vassal of Motonari. He also made alliances with local lords in Aki and Bingo (east of Aki) Provinces with a round-robin contract. A round-robin contract is an equal opportunity for everyone involved with no true leader. He always managed to persuad his three son’s Takamoto, Motoharu and Takakage to be united for the clan’s prosperity (That would create the popular episode, called Three Arrows, sometime later. It refers that Motonari tried to demonstrate the strength of teamwork by using arrows. First, he asked them to break one arrow which was easy. However, when he asked them to break all three arrows at the same time, it was impossible. This was to show his 3 sons that working together was better than working independently.). After that, he sent Motoharu and Takakage as the successors of the Kikkawa and Kobayakawa Clans which also became his relatives. However, he sometimes decided to fight, for instance, when he defeated his senior vassal, the Inoue Clan because they got out of control.

The portrait of Takamoto Mori, owned by Joeiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Takamoto Mori, owned by Waseda University Library Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Takakage Kobayakawa, owned by Beisanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

A big crisis came to Yoshida-Koriyama Castle in 1540 after Motonari changed his allegiance from the Amago Clan to the Ouchi Clan. The Amago Clan with about 30 thousand troops surrounded the castle in September. The castle seemed to look small, but Motonari was besieged with about 8 thousand people including warriors and farmers for 4 months, waiting for the reinforcement from the Ouchi Clan. It finally came in December before the Amago troops had to withdraw. This failure of the Amago Clan was said to be the first sign of their destruction which was done in the battle of Gassan-Toda Castle in 1566 by Motonari.

The portrait of Haruhisa Amago, the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Yamaguchi Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
A distant view of the ruins of Yoshida-Koriyama Castle
A distant view of Aoyama (on the left) and Mitsuiyama (on the right) Mountains where the Amago troops encamped
The ruins of Gassan-Toda Castle

Retainers gather on Whole Mountain

After that, Motonari became a great warlord through many battles, schemes and tricks, such as the Battle of Miyajima against the Sue Clan which followed the Ochi Clan in 1551. During his enterprise, he appointed the his son, Takamoto to be the new leader in 1546, but he still had the power. He moved from the ridge where the castle was first built to the top of the mountain, which would be called the Main Enclosure. Takamoto continued to live in the ridge, which would be called Honjo or the Main Castle, instead of Motonari. However, he eventually moved closer to Motonari by building a new enclosure because it was tough for him to communicate with his father by coming and going. Other retainers also got together on the mountain, as a result, the castle had about 270 enclosures over the mountain as the clan got more power.

The locations of the top and the Main Castle, from the signboard at the site, adding the red letters
“The whole illustration of Koriyama”, owned by Yamaguchi Prefectural Archives, from the signboard at the site

Motonari’s grandchild, Terumoto moves to Hiroshima

After the deaths of Takamoto in 1563 and Motonari in 1571, Takamoto’s son, Terumoto Mori followed them. He also improved and modernized the castle by building stone walls, however, he built and moved to his new home base, Hiroshima Castle in 1591. Yoshida-Koriyama Castle was eventually abandoned.

The portrait of Terumoto Mori, owned by the Mori Museum(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The present Hiroshima Castle

To be continued in “Yoshida-Koriyama Castle Part2”