158.Fukuchiyama Castle Part1

Mitsuhide Akechi spent 5 years to get Tanba Province back. What he did after the conquer of the province was to build Fukuchiyama Castle.

Location and History

Mysterious younger age of Mitsuhide Akechi

Fukuchiyama Castle was located in the northern part of Tanba Province which is modern day part of Kyoto Prefecture. Tanba Province is not popular for the present generation because the province was not large and finally merged to Kyoto and Hyogo Prefectures. However, it was very important in the past because of its location just behind north of Kyoto, the capital of Japan. Especially, in unquiet times like the Sengoku Period, it was a critical area for Kyoto. That’s why the shoguns and rulers of Kyoto always tried to have the province governed by them directly or by their senior vassals. Nobunaga Oda, the ruler during the 1570’s to the 1580’s, did the same way as others by sending his senior vassal, Mitsuhide Akechi, who built Fukuchiyama Castle.

The range of Tanba Province and the location of the castle

The Portrait of Mitsuhide Akechi, owned by Hontokuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Mitsuhide is a mysterious person to many history fans. It is still uncertain where he came from though his family name, “Akechi” is said a member of the Toki Clan, one of the noble Minamoto families. One of the few certain things about his younger age was that he was a relative of Nohime, Nobunaga’s legal wife. He became a vassal of a prospective shogun, Yoshiaki Ashikaga, when they met in Ichijodani of Echizen Province. It was a turn of fate that Mitsuhide introduced Yoshiaki and Nobunaga to each other before they went to Kyoto in 1568 to become the Shogun and the Ruler. He was not only a well-connected person, but also an excellent politician and an intelligent general so he eventually joined Nobunaga, an avatar of the merit system.

The sttue of Nohime at Kiyosu Park in Kiyosu City
The statue of Nobunaga Oda at Kiyosu Park
The gate of the Ichijodani Asakura Clan Hall Ruins
The seated statue of Yoshiaki Ashikaga, owned by Tojiin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Mitsuhide builds Fukuchiyama Castle after Invasion of Tanba Province

Mitsuhide was ordered by Nobunaga to invade Tanba Province in 1575, which was divided by many local lords such as the Naito Clan in Yagi Castle, the Hatano Clan in Yagami Castle, and the Akai Clan in Kuroi Castle. Moreover, they had been against Nobunaga since he banished Yoshiaki from Kyoto in 1573. At first, everything was going good so far, where Hideharu Hatano became Mitsuhide’s supporter. However, when he began to siege Kuroi Castle, wherein a strong general, Naomasa Akai stayed, Hideharu switched side. Mitsuhide was defeated and had to withdraw. As a result, he spent 5 years to get the province back by building new castles like Kameyama Castle, hence making the Hatano Clan surrender again – waiting for Naomasa’s death and captured Kuroi Castle in the end. What Mitsuhide did after the conquer of Tanba Province was to build Fukuchiyama Castle in 1579.

The portrait of Hideharu Hatano, from the database of Historiographical Institute, the University of Tokyo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Yagami Castle Ruins seen from Sasayama Castle Ruins
The illustration of Naomasa, from the signboard at Kuroi Castle Ruins
Kuroi Castle Ruins

The castle was originally called Yokoyama Castle, which a local Lord built and was located on the edge of the hill in the Fukuchiyama Basin where the Lord was able to overlook the area around. It was also surrounded by rivers, which meant it was defensive. Mitsuhide renovated the castle by introducing current advanced techniques of castle construction like high stone walls and building the Main Tower to show Nobunaga’s authority. Other than that, Mitsuhide governed the area well for the people’s lives by providing tax exemptions and building banks beside the rivers to avoid flood. People in Fukuchiyama City still remember them. Mitsuhide placed his son-in-law -Hidemitsu- at the castle while he stayed in the Kameyama Castle near Kyoto.

The miniature model of Fukuchiyama Castle, exhibited by the current Main Tower of the castle
The restored Main Tower of Fukuchiyama Castle
The old photo of the Main Tower of Kamayama Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle becomes Homebase of Fukuchiyama Domain after Honnoji Incident

The most mysterious thing about Mitsuhide is why he killed Nobunaga who is staying in Kyoto in the Honnoji Incident on the 2nd of June by the lunar calendar of 1582. Mitsuhide with about 13 thousand soldiers, which was ordered by Nobunaga to help Hideyoshi Hashiba, another senior vassal, who invaded the Chugoku Region, made a surprise attack on Nobunaga who was staying in Honnoji Temple with few attendants. That meant Nobunaga had fully relied on Mitsuhide. Mitsuhide was also beaten by Hideyoshi who made an incredible quick return from the Chugoku Region, only 11 days after the incident. No colleagues helped Mitsuhide. That also meant his action had not been planned. It is one of the biggest mysteries in Japanese history, seeking the reason for his rebellion as he did without giving any reasons.

The picture of the Honnoji Incident, attributed to Nobukazu Yousai, in 1896 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
~The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Fukuchiyama Castle was ruled by several relatives of Hideyoshi who became the next ruler and changed his family name to Toyotomi. After the Tokugawa Shogunate got the power in the 17th Century, several family-lineage feudal lords such as the Arima and Kuchiki Clans governed the castle and the area around as the Fukuchiyama Domain. This meant that the Fukuchiyama area was still important for the Rulers and Shoguns. The Arima Clan completed the castle in the beginning of the 17th Century and the Kuchiki Clan owned the castle from the late 17th Century to the end of the Edo Period.

The illustration of Fukuchiyama Castle in Tanba Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

To be continued in “Fukushiyama Castle Part2”

158.福知山城 その1

明智光秀は5年間かけて丹波国を平定しました。それを成し遂げた後、光秀が行ったことが福知山城の築城でした。

立地と歴史

謎につつまれた明智光秀の出自

福知山城は丹波国北部にあった城で、現在では京都府の一部となっています。丹波国は現在の人々にはあまり馴染みがありません。この国はそれ程大きくもなく、最終的には京都府と兵庫県に統合されてしまったからです。しかし、過去においてはその立地が当時の首都である京都の背後にあることから、非常に重要な場所とされました。そのため歴代の将軍や天下人たちは、常に丹波国を直接または重臣たちにより支配しようとしました。1570年代から80年代にかけての天下人、織田信長も同じように丹波国を支配するため、重臣の明智光秀を送り込みました。その光秀が福知山城を築くことになります。

丹波国の範囲と城の位置

明智光秀肖像画、本徳寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

光秀は、多くの歴史ファンにとって謎に満ちた人物です。彼の苗字「明智」は、高貴な源氏の出である土岐氏の一族であることを示していますが、どのような生い立ちであったかはわかっていません。彼の前半生において知られる数少ないことの一つは、信長の正妻である濃姫の親族だったということです。そして、越前国一乗谷において、将軍候補の足利義昭と出会い、その家臣となりました。これが運命の転換点となり、光秀は義昭と信長を引き合わせ、1568年の上洛により、それぞれが将軍と天下人になるに至りました。光秀は単にコネを持つ人物だったのではなく、優れた政治家であり、知性ある部将でもありました。そのため、実力主義の権化のような信長にも重用されることになったのです。

清須市清州公園にある濃姫の銅像
清州公園にある織田信長の銅像
一乗谷朝倉氏館跡
足利義昭坐像、等持院霊光殿蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

丹波攻略後に福知山城を築城

光秀は1575年に信長により丹波攻略を命ぜられました。当時の丹波国は、八木城の内藤氏、八上城の波多野氏、黒井城の赤井氏など多くの国人領主たちによって分割統治されていました。その上に彼らは、1573年に義昭を京都から追放した信長に反抗していました。攻略の初期段階は、波多野秀治が光秀に加勢したこともあり、全ては順調に進みました。ところが、強力な武将である赤井直正が籠る黒井城の包囲戦を行っていたとき、秀治が裏切ったのです。光秀は敗れ、撤退せざると得ませんでした。光秀はその後5年間かけて、亀山城などの新城を築き、波多野氏を降伏させ、直正の死後黒井城をついに落城させることで、丹波国を手に入れることができました。それを果たした後、光秀が行ったことが1579年の福知山城の築城でした。

波多野秀治肖像画、東京大学史料編纂所蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
篠山城跡から見た八上城跡
赤井直正のイラストレーション、黒井城跡現地説明版より
黒井城跡

この城はもともと横山城と呼ばれていて、福知山盆地にあった丘の端に地元領主が築いたもので、そこからは周辺地域を見渡すことができました。また、その場所は川にも囲まれていて、防御性もありました。光秀は城を大改修し、当時最新の築城技術を導入することにより高石垣や天守を築き、信長の権威を見せつけたのです。それ以外にもこの地域に善政を施し、租税免除を行ったり、洪水を防ぐために川沿いに堤防を築いたりしました。福知山の人々は今でもそのことを記憶しています。光秀は、養子である秀満を福知山城の城主として置き、自らは京都の近くの亀山城を居城としました。

福知山城の城郭模型、福知山城天守閣内で展示
福知山城の復元天守
亀山城天守の古写真 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

本能寺の変後は、福知山藩の本拠地として存続

光秀についての最大の謎はやはり、旧暦1582年6月2日に京都に滞在していた信長を殺した本能寺の変を、なぜ起こしたかでしょう。光秀率いる1万3千人の軍勢は、中国地方に侵攻していた他の重臣、羽柴秀吉を救援するように信長から命じられていたのですが、わずかな供回りと本能寺に泊っていた信長を急襲したのです。この経緯からすると、信長は光秀に全面的な信頼を寄せていたことになります。しかし光秀も、変から(その当時としては)たった11日で中国地方から引き返してきた秀吉によって討たれてしまいます。彼の同僚は誰も光秀を助けませんでした。このことは、光秀には周到な計画がなかったことも意味するでしょう。本能寺の変は、日本史の中でも最大の謎の一つであり、光秀自身がその動機を残さなかったことで、多くの推理・仮説を生み出しています。

『真書太閤記 本能寺焼討之図』楊斎延一作、1896年 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
豊臣秀吉肖像画、加納光信筆、高台寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

秀吉は次の天下人となり、豊臣秀吉と名乗るようになりますが、福知山城は彼の部下たちによって統治されました。17世紀になって徳川幕府が権力を握ると、有馬氏や朽木氏といった譜代大名たちが福知山藩として城と周辺地域を支配しました。福知山は、依然天下人や将軍たちにとって重要な地であり続けたのです。有馬氏が17世紀初頭に城を完成させ、朽木氏が17世紀後半から江戸時代末まで城主となっていました。

丹波国福知山平山城絵図(部分)、出典:国立公文書館

「福知山城その2」に続きます。

161.Kishiwada Castle Part3

The only thing I would ask the city to improve on the castle would be to open the views from the Main and Second Enclosures.

Features

Outside of Main Enclosure

The Main Enclosure is only connected to the Second Enclosure by the earthen bridge which is the same as the past. It looks like a castle island floating on the moat which must have had a defensive design.

The aerial photo around the castle

The earthen bridge to the Main Enclosure
The Main Enclosure looks like an island

However, if you go around the back side, you will find its back entrance ruins with stone steps, where a bridge to the outside was built. The bridge can not be seen in the drawing of the castle submitted to the shogunate. The reason for it could be that it was built after the drawing had been submitted or it was removed from the drawing intentionally.

The back entrance ruins of the Main Enclosure
The bridge in the back was not seen in the drawing (the upper right part)

The high stone walls surrounding it also look technical as they are curved elaborately to counterattack the enemies’ sides. They also use the lips as their base which is a rare case in Japanese castles. Some historians think that the reason may be to support the sandstones used for the walls which are weaker than the other types of stones. That’s why the stone walls were partially repaired in the present time, using granite to make them durable.

The stone walls are curved elaborately
These stone walls were built on the lips
The white stones seem to have been used for the repair

Inside of Main Enclosure

The inside of the Main Enclosure has the reconstructed Main Tower, a gate, a corner turret and white walls. They have different designs from the original ones compared with those in the drawing. For example, the current Main Tower has three levels with many decorations while the original one had five levels with a simple roofing. In case like the current Main Tower of Kishiwada Castle, which was rebuilt but has a different design, should be called “reconstructed”. The enclosure also has a modern Japanese dry garden, called Hachijin-no-Niwa or the Garden of Eight Battle Formation, which was built in the same period as the current Main Tower and was designated as a National Scenic Beauty in 2014. The builders might also have created the Main Tower freely without its original design as a modern building.

The reconstructed buildings in the Main Enclosure
The reconstructed Main Tower
The Garden of Eight Battle Formation

The tower is used as a historical museum inside and an observation platform on the top floor. The floor has a good viewing spot where you can enjoy the scenery of the area around including Osaka Bay. However, you can’t see anything on the outside from the enclosure except for the platform due to the high white walls on the top of the stone walls.

A view of the city area towards Osaka Bay from the platform
This is also not a good view point because of the walls

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Kishiwada Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished. The castle land excluding the Main and Second Enclosures was turned into the city area. There was probably no other way to use it, other than modernizing the city of Kishiwada. After a long time, people in Kishiwada wanted to rebuild the Main Tower of the castle though they needed donations for it. As a result, it was finally completed in 1954 as the three-level Main Tower, but actually a modern concrete building has become a symbol of the city. Some people had argued that it should have been a five-level wooden one which was the same as the original tower, but there was a budget problem and the former lord, the Okabe Clan supported the original reconstruction plan. Kishiwada City is currently struggling to consider the earthquake-resistance measures of the reconstructed Main Tower due to its old age and the stricter regulations than before. It is also continuing to repair the remaining stone walls by replacing collapsed sandstones with new granite stones.

The current Kishiwada Castle

My Impression

I think the more you visit the current Kishiwada Castle, the more you will be interested in its history. The castle started out as a small one facing the sea, and it developed into the only one in Izumi Province, and finally became the symbol of the city. However, the only thing I would ask the city to improve on the castle would be to open the views from the Main and Second Enclosures. Currently, visitors can’t see the views below from them because of the walls or hedges probably for the safety reasons. I think the city will be able to replace them with other fences which can provide the views so that visitors can fully understand how the castle was developed more.

How about using this fence, partially used in the Second Enclosure, more?
This is a good view point because of the fence

That’s all. Thank you.
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