152.Tsu Castle Part1

The final home base of Takatora Todo

Location and History

Field of Anotsu Castle Battle

Tsu Castle is located in what is now Tsu City, the capital of Mie Prefecture which was called Ise Province in the past. Tsu City calls itself the city with the shortest name in the world. Tsu just means port. Originally, the area was called Anotsu, which means the port of Ano. Anotsu was one of the three greatest ports in Japan in the Middle Ages. However, the port declined due to the Meio earthquake followed by a great tsunami in 1498.

The range of Ise Province and the location of the castle

There was also been Anotsu Castle in the plains land around the area, which was the former Tsu Castle. In 1600 before the famous Battle of Sekigahara, a preliminary skirmish happened at the castle, called the Battle of Anotsu Castle. Large troops from the West Squad attacked the castle with few defenders of Nobutaka Tomita belonging to the East Squad. The defenders had to surrender, as a result, the castle went to ruin. The Tokugawa Shogunate, which led the East Squad finally won the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, thought they need a stronger lord and castle around the area. This was because they were still against the Toyotomi Clan which lived in Osaka Castle, not so far from Ise Province in the west.

the Ukiyo-e painting of Nobutaka Tomita rescued by his wife, from an episode in the Battle of Anotsu Castle, attributed to Yoshitoshi Tsukioka, published in 1885   (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Takatora Todo improves Castle as his home base during peacetime

In 1608, the shogunate replaced Nobutaka Tomita with Takatora Todo as the lord of Anotsu Castle. Takatora was not a hereditary feudal lord, which meant he didn’t work under Ieyasu Tokugawa for a long time, who was the founder of the shogunate. He was a well-known master of castle construction through building Uwajima, Ozu and Imabari Castles. He also helped the shogunate build famous castles such as Edo, Nagoya, and Nijo in Kyoto. That’s why he was trusted by the shogunate. They expected Takatora to build a strong castle to stand against the Toyotomi Clan in Osaka Castle in the west. Takatora accomplished this by renovating Anotsu Castle, which was renamed Tsu Castle sometime around the period.

The portrait of Takatora Todo, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Uwajima Castle
Imabari Castle

He also owned Iga-Ueno Castle in Iga Province, which was west of Ise Province and closer to Osaka. He said that Tsu Castle would be his home base during peacetime while Iga-Ueno Castle would be the other one for wartime. However, Tsu Castle was adequately defensive even if it was his peacetime home base in the plains. The castle also reflected Takatora’s concepts of building castles.

Iga-Ueno Castle

Takatora’s concepts of building castles

The Main Enclosure was simply square shaped, which was easy to construct and accommodate large troops. While it may be weak for defense, the enclosure was surrounded by the wide Inner Moat, high stone walls, and many turrets on the walls. The gates of the enclosure were strongly guarded with a square defensive space called Masugata. Moreover, to enter the gates, visitors had to pass other small enclosures called Demaru or the Barbicans in the Inner Moat. The Second Enclosure and the Outer Moat were also built concentrically. Such structures can be seen in other castles which Takatora was involved in, such as Imabari, Nagoya, Nijo, and Sasayama.

The stone walls of the Main Enclosure of Tsu Castle
Tsu Castle in the last stage of the Eco Period, from the signboard at the site
Nagoya Castle
The drawing of Nagoya Castle in Owari Province (exhibited by the National Diet Library)

After the shogunate beat the Toyotomi Clan in 1615, Tsu Castle became the home base of the Tsu Domain which the Todo Clan governed, throughout the Edo Period. The castle town of Tsu Castle prospered as well as being on the Ise-Gingu Shrine pilgrimage road.

To be continued in “Tsu Castle Part2”

152.津城 その1

藤堂高虎最後の本拠地

立地と歴史

安濃津城の戦いの舞台

津城は、過去には伊勢国と呼ばれた三重県の、現在はその県庁所在地となっている津市にありました。津市は、自らを世界で一番短い名前の都市であると称しています。津は単に港を意味します。もともと、この辺りは安濃津(あのつ)と呼ばれ、安濃の港といった意味になります。安濃津は中世においては、三津(さんしん)の一つとして栄えました。ところが、1498年に起こった明応地震とそれに続く津波により壊滅的な打撃を受け、廃れてしまいます。

伊勢国の範囲と城の位置

この辺りの平地には、安濃津城と呼ばれる城もあり、それが津城の前身に当たります。有名な関ヶ原の戦いが起こる直前の1600年、安濃津城の戦いと呼ばれる関ヶ原の前哨戦がこの城で起こりました。西軍から派遣された大軍が、東軍に属していた富田信高の寡兵が守る城を攻撃したのです。守備側は降伏せざるを得ませんでした。その結果、この城は荒廃しました。1600年の関ヶ原の戦いでは東軍が最終的に勝利を収めましたが、その中核である徳川幕府は安濃津城周辺にはもっと強力な大名と城が必要と考えました。それは、伊勢国からそれ程遠くない位置にあった大坂城には豊臣氏が健在であり、幕府と対立関係にあったからです。

富田信高を救う妻の錦絵(安濃津城の戦いのとき富田信高が妻に助けられたエピソードに基づく)月岡芳年作、1885年  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

藤堂高虎の平時の居城として改装

1608年、幕府は安濃津城主を富田信高から藤堂高虎に交替させました。高虎は譜代大名ではなく、幕府の創始者である徳川家康に長く仕えていたわけではありませんでした。彼は築城の名手としてよく知られており、宇和島城大洲城、今治城などを築いていました。また、有名な江戸城名古屋城、京都の二条城などの建設では、幕府の手助けをしました。高虎はそれらにより、幕府の信頼を得ていました。幕府は高虎に、西の大坂城の豊臣氏に対抗できるだけの強力な城を築くことを期待したのです。高虎は、安濃津城を大改装することでその期待に応えました。そしてこの間、城の名前は津城と改められました。

藤堂高虎肖像画、個人蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
宇和島城
今治城

また高虎は、伊勢国の西にあり、大坂により近い伊賀国にも伊賀上野城を所有していました。彼自身、津城は平時の居城であり、一方伊賀上野城は戦時のためのもう一つの居城であるとしていました。しかし、津城は平地にあり、高虎の平時のための本拠地であるとしても十分な防御力は備えていたのです。また、高虎の城づくりのコンセプトも反映して築かれました。

伊賀上野城

高虎の城づくりのコンセプト

本丸は、シンプルな四角形をしていて、建設しやすく且つ大軍の収容も可能でした。防御が弱いようにも感じますが、広い内堀や高い石垣に囲まれ、石垣の上には多くの櫓が築かれました。本丸の門は、桝形と呼ばれる四角い防御空間により、強固に守られていました。その上に、門に入るためには内堀の中にある出丸と呼ばれる小さな曲輪を経由する必要がありました。二の丸と外堀はその周りを取り囲んで作られました。このような構造は、今治城、名古屋城、二条城、篠山城など高虎が築いた他の城でも見ることができます。

津城本丸の石垣
江戸時代終わり頃の津城の様子、現地説明板より
名古屋城
尾張国名古屋城絵図(出展:国立国会図書館)

1615年に幕府が豊臣氏を滅ぼした後は、津城は江戸時代を通じて、藤堂氏が治めた津藩の本拠地となりました。津城の城下町は繁栄し、伊勢参宮街道の通り道にもなりました。

「津城その2」に続きます。

62.Wakayama Castle Part3

Why did the Main Tower was restored again?

Features

Western and Southern sides of Castle

There are also many other attractions at the western and southern parts of the park. The Sand Enclosure is a large one which was built later than other enclosures, on the natural sand dune at the western side. It has high stone walls which overlook the city roads. The inside of the enclosure was empty from the beginning, maybe because of that, it is now used as a ground and tennis courts.

The map around the castle

The Sand Enclosure
The stone walls of the Sand Enclosure
A view from the top of the stone walls

The Oimawashi-mon Gate is another remaining building of the castle, which is painted red. The reason for the color is said to be for the amulet against the unlucky southwest direction called Ura-kimon.

The Oimawashi-mon Gate

The Akazu-no-mon Gate Ruins are another entrance of the park, which is in front of the Southern Enclosure. Its turret stone wall base is the highest one in the castle, which is about 23m high.

The Akazu-no-mon Gate Ruins
The turret stone wall base

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Wakayama Castle was abandoned. The main portion of it was owned by the Japanese Army, followed by Wakayama City, and turned into a park. The park had not only the remaining castle properties but also official facilities like a museum, a library, a school, a fire station, and the City Hall. However, the city has recently been developing it as a historical park by removing the facilities. It aims to restore the scenery of the castle at the end of the Edo Period. In addition, the site has been designated as a National Historic Site since 1931.

The restored Main Gate seen from the Second Enclosure
The long, old stone walls surrounding the central hill

My Impression

I didn’t think Wakayama Castle has so many attractions before my visit. I also noticed the importance of the Main Tower as the center point and symbol of the castle. If the tower was not there, such a large castle could be distracting. That could be the reason why people in Wakayama restored the Main Tower.

The Main Tower seen from the Second Enclosure
The Main Tower seen from the Sand Enclosure
The miniature model of the Main Tower, exhibited by Wakayama castle Museum of History

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle by car, it is about 15 minutes away from Wakayama IC on the Hanwa Expressway. There are several parking lots in or around the park.
By public transportation, It takes about 10 minutes on foot from Wakayamashi Station on the Nankai Railway. Or you can take the Wakayama Bus Route 0 or 25 from JR Wakayama Station and get off at the Wakayamajo-mae bus stop to get there.
To get to Wakayama Station from Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Kuroshio limited express at Shin-Osaka Station.
Or it may be a good idea to fly to the Kansai Airport and take the JR train to Wakayama Station or the Nankai Railway to Wakayamashi Station.

The parking lot inside the Akazu-no-mon Gate Ruins
Wakayamashi Station

Links and References

Wakayama Castle, Official Website

That’s all. Thank you.
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