153.Kitabatake Clan Hall Part1

The lord of the Kitabatake Clan reigned at the clan’s hall, called the Taki Palace. The hall had a great Japanese garden which still remains. The group eventually became a great warlord clan in the early 16th Century.

Location and History

Southern Court Noble family becomes Warlord

Kitabatake Clan Hall was the home base of the Kitabatake Clan which governed Ise Province which is the modern day Mie Prefecture between the 14th and the 16th Centuries. The clan was a unique lord’s family who was originally a noble but finally became a warlord until they were taken over by Nobunaga Oda. Kitabatake Clan Hall was also uniquely located in the Taki area which was inconvenient but defensive so that clan was able to survive for a long time.

The range of Ise Province and the location of the castle

In the Period of Northern and Southern Courts during the 14th Century, Emperor Godaigo of the Southern Court sent his trusted vassal, Chikafusa Kitabatake to eastern Japan to govern the region. Chikafusa and his son, Akiie fought against the lords of the Northern Court, as a general. As a result, their relatives in the Tohoku Region remained as a noble birth lord family, called Namioka Palace, which lived in Namioka Castle until the late 16th Century. Similarly, Akiie’s little brother, Akiyoshi was sent to Ise Province and he was assigned as its Governor in 1338. Ise Province consisted of the eastern part facing the sea and having Ise Grand Shrine, one of the most important shrines for the Imperial family, and the western part of mountain areas having the routes to Yoshino in Yamato Province (now Nara Pref.), the home of the Southern Court.

The portrait of Emperor Godaigo, owned by Shojokoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The statue of Akiie Kitabatake in Kitabatake Shrine
The ruins of Namioka Castle

The Kitabatake Clan in Ise Province also battled the Northern Court and eventually chose their home at a place in the defensive western part, which would be the Taki area. The area was on the way to the Ise Main Road connecting Ise Grand Shrine and Yamato Province, which was considered important. However, it was a small basin along the Yatemata River, surrounded by mountains. There were 7 entrances to the area, which were all on steep mountain passes or deep valleys. That meant the area itself was very defensive.

The relief map of the Taki area with its 7 entrances

The sitting statue of Akiyoshi Kitabatake, exhibited by Misugi Home Museum  (licensed via Wikimedia Commons)

Unfortunately, the Southern Court eventually declined and the Ashikaga Shogunate supporting the Northern Court was established. The Kitabatake Clan somehow managed to survive, however, they sometimes opposed the shogunate about how to treat the descendants of the Southern Court. The clan first built their hall in a land surrounded by the Yatemata and the other two rivers in three directions and mountains in the west. The land was leveled to three tiers, the upper one was about 3m above the middle one and surrounded by long stone walls, so it seemed that the Main Hall was built on the upper tier. These stone walls are thought as one of the earliest ones built for warriors’ halls or residences. They were piled vertically using natural oval-shaped river stones, unlike typical stone walls for castles later, piled with a slant, using processed stones.

The excavated stone walls of the upper tier

Castles are built to protest Hall

The shogunate troops sometimes attacked the territory of the Kitabatake Clan from the west. As a result, the clan started to build new castles in that direction to protect their hall. They first built the final castle for emergencies on a mountain about 80m above the hall. It had a simple main enclosure on the top and belt enclosures around with passes. The western edge of the mountain was cut by a deep ditch where only the narrow earthen bridge could be used.

The relief map around the castle

The layout of the final castle, from the signboard at the site, adding the red English letter
The ruins of the final castle

The clan also built a larger castle over the pass towards the west, called Kiriyama Castle. The castle was located on another mountain about 160m above the final castle, which was much harder to access for enemies as well as defenders. Therefore, the castle seemed to be used as a lookout usually and for being besieged in cases of emergency. As a result, the clan was able to prevent the enemies from invading the Kitabatake’s territory.

The ruins of Kiriyama Castle

Prosperity and Destruction of Kitabatake Clan

After that, the clan and the shogunate made peace with each other, which made the government of the clan in Ise Province stable. Their several branch clans, such as the Kozukuri Clan, were sent to various places of the province and the lord of the Kitabatake Clan reigned at the clan’s hall, called the Taki Palace. The hall was also expanded to have a great Japanese garden which still remains. The group eventually became a great warlord clan in the early 16th Century and its influence reached the peak in the middle of the century when the 7th lord, Tomonori Kitabatake was the lord.

The remaining Kitabatake Clan Hall Ruins Garden
The portrait of Tomonori Kitabatake, owned by Iseyoshida Library (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

However, a new threat came from Owari Province, north of Ise. Nobunaga Oda, who would later be the ruler of Japan, started to invade Ise Province in 1568. Moreover, the relative Kozukuri Clan turned supporting Nobunaga. Tomonori had to move to his home from the hall to Okochi Castle near the battle fields. The Kitabatake and Oda Clans made peace in 1569 under the terms of Nobunaga’s son, Nobukatsu being adopted as the Kitabatake Clan’s successor. This was actually the starting point of taking the Kitabatake Clan over by the Oda Clan. Tomonori was finally killed by Nobukatsu in 1576. The castles in Ise Province, including Kitabatake Clan Hall, were captured by the Oda’s troops at the same time.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Nobukatsu Oda, owned by Sokenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Kitabatake Clan Hall Part2”

153.北畠氏館 その1

北畠氏の当主は、多気御所と呼ばれた本拠の館で君臨していました。豪華な日本庭園も造られ現存しています。この一族は16世紀初頭には有力な戦国大名となりました。

立地と歴史

戦国大名となった南朝出身の貴族

北畠氏館は、14世紀から16世紀の間、現在の三重県にあたる伊勢国を支配した北畠氏の本拠地でした。北畠氏はユニークな大名家で、もともとは貴族だったのがついに戦国大名になりましたが、最後には織田信長に家ごと乗っ取られてしまいました。北畠氏館も独特な立地で、不便ではあるが防御力に優れる多気地域というところに館が築かれました。その結果、北畠氏は長い間存続できたのです。

伊勢国の範囲と城の位置

14世紀の南北朝時代に、南朝の後醍醐天皇は、信頼する臣下の北畠親房を東日本にその統治のために派遣しました。親房とその息子の顕家は武将として、北朝型の大名たちと戦いました。その結果、彼らの親族は東北地方に残り、高貴な生まれの大名として浪岡御所と呼ばれ、16世紀後半まで浪岡城を居城としていました。同様に、顕家の弟の顕能(あきよし)が伊勢国に派遣され、1338年には国司に任命されました。伊勢国は、海に面した東部と山間部の西部に分かれていました。東部には、皇室にとって最も重要な神社の一つ、伊勢神宮がありました。西部には、南朝の本拠地である大和国(現在の奈良県)の吉野に通じる街道が通っていました。

後醍醐天皇肖像画、清浄光寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
北畠神社内にある北畠顕家像
浪岡城跡

館があった地域自体が自然の要害

伊勢国の北畠氏も北朝方と戦っていて、自然本拠地は防御力の強い国の西側に置くことになりました。そして選ばれたのが多気地域たっだのです。この地域には伊勢神宮と大和国をつなぐ伊勢本街道が通っていて重要視されました。しかしその場所は八手俣(やてまた)川沿いの山に囲まれた小さな盆地でした。この地域の出入り口は7箇所ありましたが、全て峻険な峠道か、深い谷間でした。つまり、この地域自体が自然の要害だったのです。

多気地域の起伏地図、7箇所の出入口も示しています

北畠顕能座像、美杉ふるさと資料館蔵  (licensed via Wikimedia Commons)

不幸なことに南朝の勢力はやがて衰え、北朝を支持する足利幕府が設立されます。北畠氏は何とか生き残りましたが、しばしば幕府に対して南朝の子孫の取り扱いについて抗議しました(南北朝合体のときに約束された両統からの皇位継承が反故にされたことなど)。北畠氏はまず、西に山を控え、残りの三方を八手俣川に囲まれた敷地に館を建設しました。その敷地は三段に造成され、上段は中段よりも約3m高く、長い石垣によって囲まれていました。その上段に御殿が建てられていたようです。そこに築かれた石垣は、武士の館や住居のために作られたものとしたは最古に属すると考えられています。石垣は、楕円形の自然の川原石を垂直に積み上げたもので、後世の城に見られるような加工された石を傾斜を作って積み上げたものとは違っていました。

発掘された敷地上段の石垣、現地説明板より

館を守るために次々と築城

北畠氏の反抗により、幕府は軍勢を送り、北畠氏の領地を西側から度々攻撃しました。そのことで、北畠氏は本拠を守るためにその方角に向かって新しい城を築き始めました。最初は館の背後の山、約80m上方に非常事態に備えた詰めの城を作りました。その城は簡単な構造で、頂上に本丸があり、その周りを通路とともに腰曲輪が設けられていました。その山の西側の峰には、深い堀切が作られ、それを渡る細い土橋によってのみ通行可能になっていました。

城周辺の起伏地図

詰めの城の縄張り図、現地説明板より
詰めの城跡

また、その通路を渡った西側に向かって、もっと大きな城も築きました。それが霧山城で、詰めの城よりも更に約160m高い別の山にありました。敵にとっても味方にとっても、近づくだけでも困難な場所でした。したがって、その城は通常は物見のために使われ、非常事態が発生したときには籠城のために使われたと思われます。その結果、北畠氏は敵の領地への侵入を防ぐことができました。

霧山城跡

北畠氏の繁栄と滅亡

その後、北畠氏と幕府は和解し、伊勢国における北畠氏の支配は安定しました。木造(こづくり)氏などの北畠氏の支族は、伊勢国の各地に派遣され、北畠氏の当主は、多気御所と呼ばれた本拠の館で君臨していました。館も拡張され、豪華な日本庭園が造られ、それは現存しています。北畠氏一族は16世紀初頭には有力な戦国大名となり、7代目当主の北畠具教(とものり)が国を治めていた16世紀半ばにその勢力はピークに達しました。

現存する北畠氏館跡庭園
北畠具教肖像画、伊勢吉田文庫所蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

ところが、伊勢の北、尾張国から新たな脅威が訪れます。後に天下人となる織田信長が1568年に伊勢国への侵攻を開始したのです。更に、一族の木造氏も信長の味方となりました。具教は本拠を、戦場により近い大河内城に移さなければならなくなりました。北畠、織田両氏は1569年に、信長の息子、信雄を北畠氏の跡継ぎに迎えるという条件で講和しました。このことは実際には、織田氏による北畠氏乗っ取りの始まりとなりました。具教は1576年に信雄により殺されてしまい、同じ頃に北畠氏館を含む伊勢国の各城は、織田軍により占拠されました。

織田信長肖像画、狩野宗秀作、長興寺蔵、16世紀後半 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
織田信雄肖像画、総見寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「北畠氏館その2」に続きます。

56.Takeda Castle Part3

I can’t believe the stone walls of Takeda Castle have been left intact for over 400 years since the it was abandoned. Although they have been often repaired and maintained. I still can’t understand why they have been intact for so long.

Features

From Center of Castle to Southern Ridge

The western ridge from the center, called Hanayashiki or the Flower Residence Enclosure, does not usually not allow visitors to enter because of its preservation and the safety of visitors. The enclosure is built on the steeper ridge than the others, which is said to be built to protect the back route of the castle.

The map around the castle

The Flower Residence Enclosure
You can not enter the enclosure

Therefore, you will go on the route to the southern ridge which has the narrow Southern Second Enclosure and the large Minami-Senjo or the Southern 1,000 mat Enclosure, similar to the northern ridge. If you look back to the center of the castle, you can see many great stone walls covering the top of the mountain. The view of the area around the mountain is magnificent.

Going to the southern ridge
The Southern Second Enclosure
A view of the center from the Southern Second Enclosure
Going out to the Minami-senjo Enclosure
The Minami-senjo Enclosure
A view from the Minami-senjo Enclosure

The return path goes from the edge of the ridge, which might have been the other entrance of the castle. You will finally return to the paved path which you have passed.

The exit from the Minami-senjo Enclosure
A view of the same place above from the outside
The return path
You have returned to the paved path which you had passed.

Later History

Takeda Castle was abandoned and all the castle buildings were demolished in the early Edo Period. However, the stone walls of the castle were left as there were, for some reasons. In other cases of abolished castles, their stone walls were also destroyed. The remaining stone walls of Takeda Castle may have been a miracle. The castle ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1943. Since then the ruins were sometimes used as the locations of historical movies that feature the intact stone walls of the castle. In 2007, a photographer, posted his photo of the Takeda Castle in the Sky, which won an award. This made the castle famous and the number of the visitors skyrocketed.

Intentionally broken stone walls of Iwakuni Castle on the mountain
The stone walls of Hizen-Nagoya Castle being destroyed like a V letter
The ruins of Suzume-mon Gate of Uda-Matsuyama Castle, after its stone walls were completely destroyed

My Impression

Three things surprised me about the great stone walls of Takeda Castle three times. First, I was simply impressed to see the stone walls on the high mountain. I was wondering how and why the builders built them on such a steep place. I learned that the value of Takeda Castle for the rulers and what the builder, Masahiro Saimura did in the castle are parts of the answer. Secondly, I heard that local people make great efforts on maintaining the stone walls to preserve them and make sure visitors visit them safely. I also think the original layout of the castle even now helps visitors walk smoothly in the castle ruins. Finally, I can’t believe the stone walls have been left intact for over 400 years since the castle was abandoned. As far as I know, there is no other example of stone walls which are the same or similar to Takeda Castle. Although the stone walls have been often repaired and maintained. I still can’t understand why they have been intact for so long.

Unlike the Three castles which were abandoned in the seme period, the stone walls of Takeda Castle remain intact

How to get There

If you want to get there by car, it is about 10 minutes from Wadayama IC on the Kitakinki-Toyooka Expressway. There is a parking lot at the tourist facility halfway up the mountain.
By public transportation, you can take the Tenku-bus from JR Takeda Station and get off at the final bus stop, Takeda-jo. The stop is over 1km away from the entrance of the castle ruins. Or it takes about 40 minutes on foot from the station to the entrance.
From Tokyo or Osaka to Takeda Station: take the Sanyo Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Bantan Line at Himeji Station.

That’s all. Thank you.
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